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shocky

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Posts posted by shocky

  1. I think I have a related problem. I recently bought an '06 911S and the navigation system isn't working. It says the DVD is not readable. The disk that came with the car has an 04.05 date printed on the left side of the disk. The local dealer said that this was not the correct disk. I would like a second opinion before I go down the path to get a correct disk. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Joe

    From the recent threads, it appears to me that you guys are spending way too much time looking at your "tv" set! :rolleyes:

  2. Well guys, it looks like the time has come to upgrade my 996 C4S to a 997 Carrera S. I really liked the feel of the new car much better, and the PASM really makes the car much more livable. I am looking at buying an 08 model (as it seems the dealers are more anxious to get rid of them, read much better dealing). I have a question in regards to the clearance of the front bumper as compared to my 03 Carrera 4S. I have a fairly steep driveway that my 996 4S goes up with no problems. Is the Carrera S much lower? Any knowledge will, as always, be greatly appreciated.

    Just make sure you take it out of the sport mode before you go up the incline.

    John

  3. I purchased a 2005 997 coupe (not S) just over two weeks ago, and took it to my local Porsche dealer for an oil change and other minor maintenance last Friday. They know me well as I also have a '04 Cayenne. Checking gauges on the way home I noted that the oil pressure gauge was pretty much pinned at 5 as I cruised the parkway at 65mph, fully warmed up. While I can't swear to it, I'm pretty sure it was closer to the midrange of the scale prior to that. It registers lower at idle, but as soon as there's any driving range RPMs going on we're back up at 5. I took it out again yesterday, warmed it up, and the same pressure readings exist.

    The manual says 3.5 @5000 rpm, so I called my service rep, she spoke with the guy who worked on my car -- "that's ok, having higher pressure readings is good," he told her. I asked that she get a more authoritative, second opinion, as most gauge upper limits, IME, are designed to display and notify you of extremes. Too much pressure is not good according to my logical mind, unless you want to blow seals.

    I did a search for oil pressure but couldn't find an equivalent post. Your experience is appreciated!

    thanks! Bob

    Bob

    I think you're OK. That 3.5 bar at 5000 rpm is a minimum reading. Sounds to me like you you have a good running engine. Understand, that unless the gage is calibrated every year you can get a variance in reading from one car to another. I would be much more concerned if it was reading lower than 3.5 bar.

    John

  4. ...well heard back from my local Porsche Center in Cardiff, UK and the comlpete X51 'Air Cleaner' costs £638 GBP and that doesn't include 'Air Box' (inlet pipe) or extra gasket for lid and X51 oil filler pipe. Cutting the lid seems no biggy with provided template but that oil filler pipe looks a right bugga to remove and change and I know someone on here mentioned about removing the alternator but that looks pretty complex for a D.I.Y.'er?

    They did mention some discout on the parts but not sure what type of gains are to be had just for fitting this alone without the engine mods. Had PSE installed after I took the car so enjouying the benefits of that already.

    Watch this space I guess...

    D

    well i finished my install , of the x51 intake and the headers. the alternator removal was a pain, it just would not come out, but once again the forum helped me out, the bushing on the alternator gets rusted, so it wont budge, but few bang with the hammer on the bolt it loosened up the bushing an the alternator came righ out. oil filler pipe swap was a breeze. just be patient. impresse witht the results, car now has a better throttle respones, and slightly quicker.

    next is the 20 mm euro sports supsension. I have assembled all the suspension outside the car, just have to swap it now.

    Did you need to replace the MAF stock wiring harness to X51 when installing? Some people report that the standard wiring is to short.

    After much study I jumped in and did the X-51 airbox.

    Cutting the hole was a major PITA. A couple of pointers get the X-51 upgrade TSB. Take off the painted portion of the Spoiler, it is only 4 screws and very easy to do. The cutout pattern in the TSB is a little small even if you print it with no margins. I enlarged it 102% and it worked fine.

    Installing the Oil Fill pipe is also a major PITA. In addition to removing the ALternator which is difficult as previousily discussed I also removed the plenum which gave me more room to work. Removing and reinstalling this is easy as I had done before with the RSS Plenum.

    As far as Adapters I bought the following from BoostController.com and after cutting it length with an exacto blade it worked perfectly;

    Silicone Straight Hose, SHORT - 2 inch length #ASCSHS2-X

    Size - 3.25 inch ID (add 5.00)

    Color - Black

    The dealer who sold me the parts also recommended the following; Hoover Vacuum belt for the Self Propelled WindTunnel is a perfect fit (part number 38528-035).

    I also had to trim a little bit off the edge of the x-51 Boot to get it to fit correctly on the TB. I also had to push the clamp on in that same area with a screw driver.

    It was a very challenging project but I am glad I did not only for the looks but the performance gains mentioned earlier.

    RSS also has a modified TB which I added at the same time. They basically improved the aerodynamics by machining the entrance to more of a point for a venturi effect and machining the Shaft so air flows around it better.

  5. Hi new to the forum and new to Porsche. Have always loved the looks but not very familure to the models. I have had several Vettes but now have converted to Porsche. I am looking to buy an 06 or 07 911 in the next few months. Can some one tell me what the difference is between c2 c4 and c4s is? Also what is the Hp of these cars. Also looking for a tip tronic as I have a bum shoulder cant shift. Thanks for any and all info. I look forward to learing about these amazing cars. Also let me know of any issues I should be looking for before I make a purchase. as always look forward to hanging out here Thanks in advance.

    I thought the C2 and C4 were 325HP? Doesn't the 09 go to 345 though?

    Yes, 05 to 08 C-2 and C-4 are 325 and jump to 345 for 09.

    John

  6. Another reason to buy a gen2 997, NO INTERMEDIATE SHAFT!!

    First year of production, more reliable, hummmm? I've been doing these cars nearly 40 years. RMS, intermediate shaft ... try chain tensioners, valve guides, thermal reactors, magnesium cases, head studs etc. Early 911 usually needed a top end at 40-50k and you were lucky to get 100k before rebuild. My 72 911 leaked oil from almost day one. The 2.7s, an absolute disaster, early 964 nearly as bad. My 08 C2 is the best ever, hands down. These are high performance cars that are usually driven as such and generally bullet proof. If you think otherwise, try a Ferry or a Lambo! If you want total piece of mind, buy a Honda.

    John

  7. Help and info please. Took 2005 Carrera 997 to a just opened, NEW, Porsche dealership for a Minor Maintenance that included an oil and filter change. Everything seemed OK with the service and I drove vehicle home 15 miles and parked it. Next day prior to starting the car I checked the oil level indicator and it appeared over filled. Me garage is very level and the indicator measurement has never been over the maximum mark. I checked the invoice from the dealer and it shows 10 quarts of oil added. Normally the amount added on the invoice from other dealers is 9 quarts; the Porsche specifications state 8.7. I called the dealer and they said bring the car back and they will fix the problem. In the Porsche Owners Manual it states in bold print NEVER ADD MORE OIL THAN REQUIRED TO REACH THE MAX MARK. My question is can I drive the car back to the dealership without damaging the engine or has the damage already been done. Thanks in advance for any input.
  8. Remove all the bolds from the sub frame to the car bottom except the two most rear ones ( only release ), the sub frame will comes down on the front and you can use the room to remove the sway bar.

    thanks rfm and all for your prompt response. i do have a lift and i am waiting for my buddy to give me a hand. I might just drop the whole subframe, this way i dont have to undo the lower ball joint, as i have to drop the carrier with the struts, as I am replacing the struts as well.

    thanks

    Ronnie

    Ronnie

    Which sway bar are you installing might I ask?

    John

  9. Sorry, I'm afraid I don't follow that. A and B gives me the left and right alignment of the leftmost part of the 9 and the rightmost part of the right 1. In what way does that give me the angle of each number? And then, what about the middle 1? I apologize if I'm missing something...

    ....

    After looking deeper into this, it appears these logos come on a sheet of paper when new, so the placement and angle of each number is by definition correct. What I have is the three numbers by themselves, so that makes proper placement much more complicated as I need to stick them one at a time.

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