hsckolnik

Yes it was the cable. Needed a new clip. In and out of the shop in 30 minutes for $30.

They do a great job at Stuttgart!

I was driving home this evening and was shifting from 2nd to 3rd. Problem was there was no third gear. There was no grinding and clutch seems fine. Problem is in other gears also but I was able to get going in 2nd and then into 5th. 

I'm hoping to able able to limp over to my Stuttgart Southwest in Tempe tomorrow but was hoping someone would have some ideas tonight.

Thanks

So I won't be driving the car and have bought a trickle charger.

So the stupid question is do I need to actually hook up to the battery directly or can I hook up to the terminals in the engine compartment?

First of all, it had better not be a "trickle charger"; they never shut off and slowly cook your battery. What you need is a "maintainer", which only applies current when the battery needs it, then shuts down. That will keep your battery in optimum condition without cooking it.

Secondly, these cars are set up from the factory to have the maintainer plug into the cigarette lighter (it is hot all the time for this reason), so get one with an adaptor to do that............

Yes it's a maintainer but no cigarette lighter adapter

So back to my original question, hook it up directly to the battery since I don't have a lighter adapter?

So I won't be driving the car and have bought a trickle charger.

So the stupid question is do I need to actually hook up to the battery directly or can I hook up to the terminals in the engine compartment?

First of all, it had better not be a "trickle charger"; they never shut off and slowly cook your battery. What you need is a "maintainer", which only applies current when the battery needs it, then shuts down. That will keep your battery in optimum condition without cooking it.

Secondly, these cars are set up from the factory to have the maintainer plug into the cigarette lighter (it is hot all the time for this reason), so get one with an adaptor to do that............

Yes it's a maintainer but no cigarette lighter adapter

So I won't be driving the car and have bought a trickle charger.

So the stupid question is do I need to actually hook up to the battery directly or can I hook up to the terminals in the engine compartment?

You can try a transmission gear oil change - use only factory gear oil. If that does not cure it then you likely have a bad synchro - which means a rebuild (sorry if that is the case).

Loren,

Thanks I'll bring it into the local independent (Stuggart SW) which does a great job. Any idea why the problem goes away once the car has warmed up and why only shifting into 2nd?

2002 Carrera 42,000 miles

I've recently had a problem with shifting into second gear. It only happens in second and when the car has just started up in the morning.

When I shift into second I get a grinding noise and it won't lock in. After driving a couple of miles everything is fine.

Any ideas?

You can usually tell if it's the window seal or the regulator as you can see the seal pulling on the window and the bad seal noise is like fingers on a balloon type thing. Silicone grease will recondition the seals somewhat and get them to stop sticking. There's a DIY for the regulators.

Is there any preventive action that can be taken to prevent the regulator failure?

Loren,

Had to swap out my battery and as a result radio needs a code. CDR220 serial number 15001411.

Thanks in advance if you can dig up the code.

Howard

Try 4602

or

4600

If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so...

Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST

Loren,

Thanks had to go 2 numbers higher - 4604 worked :rolleyes:

Loren,

Had to swap out my battery and as a result radio needs a code. CDR220 serial number 15001411.

Thanks in advance if you can dig up the code.

Howard

Mine is fluctuating a great deal and then will drop to zero which will then trigger the indicator failure message then go back to reading high. Does this sound like the sender?

Thanks,

Tony

'02 996 C2 Cab

Either a loose/bad connection or a bad sender in most cases.

I'm experiencing the same problem with my 2002 911. I get the indicator failure message and the gauge goes to zero and then bounces back. Is this a critical fix or can it wait a week.

How easy is the repair for a really technically challenged person? Can anyone attach a photo of it's location.

Thanks in advance.

Folks,

I am getting back into 911's (yeah baby). And about to purchase a 05 997 C2S coupe. Fully loaded, Navi, Bose, Sport Chorno, 6 Speed. with 21K miles on it and solid mint condition. Local car. Upon inspection by a local Porsche dealer they found the RMS leak, which is being fixed under the extended warranty that the seller has. 3/36....till end of 2011 or 56K miles.

paying 44.5K for it.

From my research it sounds like a good deal and we have a deal. Wanted to put it out there to reaffirm. Also anything else I should be looking out for? I have read about the IMS issue, but my understanding is, it is rare and since I do have the extended warranty, if the engine blows, it will be covered by it.

Anything else to look for?

Thanks.

Good deal Noor, very similar to what I drive! Warranty is an excellent bonus you're getting with the car! That's one thing I wish I got.

congrats if you buy it, put up some pics

Sam

Make sure the extended warranty is really transferrable. some of them require the approval by the insurer. When I bought mine I had a PPI also and had work done by the seller which the policy covered. I called the warranty company (Great lakes) to do the transfer ( I think there was a $150 fee). Well a couple of days later I get my payment and transfer application back in the mail. They turned down the transfer. I guess they figured they'd forgo the $150 to avoid future claims during the remaining 15 months left on the warranty.

The HAZARD switch is next option.

I picked up a flasher relay and that was the problem. :D

Loren, thanks for the help. If you're ever in Phoenix I owe you a drink!

Yes, position 1 and 2 may be empty.

I picked up a replacement relay at checker. Installed but didn't work (suppose it might not be the right one but they said it is).

Any other idea on what the problem could be?

Thanks in advance!

Above the fuse panel in the lower left footwell.

just to make sure I'm in the right place. would it make sense that the first two spots in that row would have nothing in them?

I've got a a basic 2002 c2. Do I just give the relay a yank?

Check your flasher relay - position 3 in the relay panel (that would be the 3rd relay from the left on the top row.

and next stupid question is where is relay panel?

2002 C2 - I'm sure this has been asked a million times but I didn't see anything in the do it yourself section so my apologies in advance.

The other day I noticed that my turn signals weren't working (nor did the emergency flashers). Then they started working. The next day same thing and now they don't work at all. I swapped the fuse out but still no go.

Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

I think if you get one of those 9volt cigarette lighter things from autozone, etc, you don't have to do anything. AAA changed out my battery when my car refused to start not too long ago, and they used this gizmo so no CEL, etc.

No CEL's on the battery disconnect on a 996.

if I use one of those 9 volt cigarette lighter charges then I won't loose any functions and won't have a radio code issue?

I've read through the thread on batteries. Pardon the stupid question, but I assume that since I have to disconnect the battery to make the swap that I'll need to reset the radio code. Is there anything else to watch out for?

Thanks!

2002 911 C2 35,000 miles

I'm thinking about purchasing an extended warranty. Does anyone have any experience with Carchex/Royal Administrative Services? They offer a 4 year /40,000 mile warranty for approx. $3,500.

I'm planning on keeping the car for quite a while so this is for peace of mind.

Any other companies that anyone would recommend?

2002 911 C2 Coupe 35,500 miles

I was driving to work this morning accelerating up to 70 (RPM's might have been 4500) when the oil warning image flashed on my dashboard (image of the oil can). It was there at most for 1/4 of a second and then was gone. I slowed immediately and got off the highway. It then flashed one more time. In neither case did any trouble light on the bottom of the dash display come on.

Luckily I was less than a mile from the Scottsdale Porsche dealer when this happened and drove the car cautiously there.

A service tech checked oil level which was fine and then checked the on-board computer for any service warning which was also clean. Thought it just might be a sensor that might be starting to fail. I've had the car for a year and never had this or any other issue.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!

Sounds like an oil pressure sensor beginning to fail. Did you see your oil preswsure gauge giving you any erratic readings when the oil light came on??

Demosan

No didn't notice any

Probably a defective oil pressure sensor, they are known to fail. You can check the connectors on top of the sensor for proper fitting to start with.

Thanks and pardon my total ignorance but where's the sensor located?

2002 911 C2 Coupe 35,500 miles

I was driving to work this morning accelerating up to 70 (RPM's might have been 4500) when the oil warning image flashed on my dashboard (image of the oil can). It was there at most for 1/4 of a second and then was gone. I slowed immediately and got off the highway. It then flashed one more time. In neither case did any trouble light on the bottom of the dash display come on.

Luckily I was less than a mile from the Scottsdale Porsche dealer when this happened and drove the car cautiously there.

A service tech checked oil level which was fine and then checked the on-board computer for any service warning which was also clean. Thought it just might be a sensor that might be starting to fail. I've had the car for a year and never had this or any other issue.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!

Crazy question but does anyone have an idea why A/C on the driver side is cooler than on the passenger side?

Thanks!