00boxster

trying to figure out how to swap a blade or a pill

without destroying old or new one.

thanks,

mike

I just did it, flipped it from the bottom first, then used metal tweesers to pull it out, not as fragile as I first thought.

I then transferred it a few times to the GT conversion FOB but could not allign the buttoms, but the ignition did turn

only with that glass pill thing.

I am going to see if the local dealer will programme the new GT fob head from Pelican.

They guys who cut the key, as the dealer couldn't gave me a spare which solves my spare problem coz the only key

I had before was a very worn out original that only unlocked the doors 30% of the time.

One way or another a simple swap the guts of the GT / 911 Fob is not so simple, the buttons did not allign on my swap but

the part comes with "the gutts" so I will see if the dealer can sync them and the original key.

00Boxster,

Swap will work fine, I did mine a few months ago. As Loren stated, just swap over the circuit card and pill and viola, you have a cool looking key fob. When you press the button to open the locks the "911" on the remote glows red. Kinda neat at night but then it doesn't take much to amuse me :rolleyes:

I actually need to get the 911 key with the guts in it (transmitter) as I have lost my original key.

Will the guts from the 911 work or do I still have to order a standard boxster FOB head and then transfer it to a 911 case?

When the dealer does the reprogram will they have to do both my old spare key and the new key? IE wil I get charges 2 x $150

Thanks :D

PS: I think I will get the GT key

I tried calling my voicemail at home and at work and they both sound very tinny and like I'm calling from a tunnel. I'll try a few different things and may end up mounting the mic where the console and the dash meet directly below the present location. If you find out anything let me know as well.

I finally got around to pulling out the dash again and I installed foam insulation behind the mic and in the gauge cluster cavity behind the mic. What a difference! It still sounds like a speaker phone to callers on the other end but the clarity is much better. It made hands free calling usable where before, no one could understand me.

I got my installer put mine (the phone microphone) up near the rear view mirror so it was protected from the wind, there is a gap for the wire to pass out from hidden under the plastic. I drive alot with the roof down and don't have problems with calls on the road, its a parrot system that I had added when I removed the Motorola "thing" that was factory fitted.

Would be great to get rid of the black bit that is attached to the LHS where the parrot is currently placed when I put in a new 2 din touch screen.

I have also ordered other bits such as buttons to fill in the 3 black one on either side of my new screen.

Has anyone worked out if any of the new model touch screens with hard drives can be wired up to 1 or 2 of those blank rocker type buttons either side of the radio like the soft top up/down one ?

Festive Greetings to all :D

I am at the stage where I have to get a new key and fob. I would like to use one of the new 911 key fobs or even the GT both have been cited as possible replacement FOBs. I lost my original boxster key and the spare only remotely opens the doors 20% of the time so a new one is in order regardless.

The single dealer we have here wants $291 for the original black FOB (my old one pictured) $42 for a blank key (which they can't cut??) plus $150 to reprogramme the new key (he did say I can BYO FOB as long as i have the code number)

$483 plus I have to get someone to cut the key. I know I can get the standard black fob online for about half that cost, though i would prefer the 911 or GT FOB if it works.

When I asked about the 911 or GT FOB he said NO

If anyone is using a GT or 911 FOB on a Boxster 2000 can you let me know or point me in the right direction.

Thanks and have a safe new years folks.

Prices are in AU$ which is about the same as the US$ at the moment that is 1 for 1

see below

Yeah nice work but the pics are all on the Lambo???

Love to have that in my Boxster, I miss alot of the mod cons

Incredible work on the car BTW.

Lets see it.

here it is. you can see the push button installed, and the key i use is an OEM lambo key. and i took the RFID chip out of the actual case and installed it into

the lambo key , so in order to start the car you have to have the lambo key present, and in your pocket.

http://s745.photobuc...s/xx97/quan717/

i have a spare 997 key i would like to use it on the 996 i can put the blade on it and the little glass pill looking transponder does anyone know how to program just the door looks for either 996 or 997 cars or any help for the retrofit

I have a 986 Boxster 2000 and it seems this key (911 Branded) will also work for me. Much better than the black 2 button key/fob that is standard.

I only have one dud key left, the remote unlock works 30% of the time and just cant find the good one.

I am thinking the best bet is to purchase 2 x fob head units ($115 each Suncoast) and 2 blank keys ($23 each suncoast), then head down to the dealer to reprogramme.

I will probably try and find a locksmith to cut the key prior.

If anyone has other ideas please let me know, I am doing a parts order from the US to cover this and a DIN2 audio upgrade

Thanks for that, after searching further found that simply banging on top of the dash made the back light work again.

Thanks to that friendly and very helpful poster :D

Do a search here for how to replace the instrument cluster backlight bulbs.

Thanks I had a bang around with a rubber mallet as some had suggested on here and looked for any loose heat shields.

Then took it for a "nice" drive and the rattling has gone for the moment - fingers crossed and thanks

I will record again and do a youtube upload if it does it again

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Could be the heat shelds on the rear exhaust loose! just held on by twist clips the clips often fall off.

Had the same problem and tried "the thump" method

Tools required: Fist

Procedure: Bang fist on top of dash several times until the back light becomes illuminated

Picture attached of back light prior

Thanks guys, I should be fine from here now :)

Sam

Just tried "the thump" method after a few solid fists on top of the bash the time/oil level side was illuminated.

Attached is the picture before, 2000 Boxster

Thanks for the tech advice :D

1997-2000 used bulbs. 2001-2004 used leds. You service guy may not be up on the old cars.

Hitting the top of the instrument cluster sometimes makes it work if the bulbi is not burned out. You can clean the contacts for the bulb, but since you have to remove the cluster to do this you might as well replace them at he same time.

The replacement bulbs come in the plastic holder and the holder is tan.

I recently had the AOS replaced by a secondary dealer, had the part already after reading up on the AOS when I first got the car. Its a 2000 model with 93000 kms.

Anyway, about 5 days later the dash time/oil level light dimmed and a rattling sound started. I posted something separate about the dash light.

Rattling Sound attached in a video file Cant upload the mp4 file, any other ways? maybe donate?

The rattling sound if from the rear behind the driver and seems to be loudest near the exhaust, the sound you would expect if someone left a nut in the exhaust bellow and it was rattling around.

The orange LED display in the 2000 Boxster has 3 displays under each dial.

The dial with the time and oil level is not illuminated (I can still see the readout very faintly)

I checked the cabin fuses but nothing related to that area.

see attached Pic

I have a 2000 boxster and thank god dont have this problem, the front hood is a cable release and when the battery died i just opened the hook as usual, you guys must have an electronic release only my rear boot has that.

Very helpful thread, was not gonna give the TB a clean as it appeared too hard opened my engine up last weekend and just ended up giving the engine a good clean after attempting to get at the TB. Mine had alot of oil on the outside of the oil filler tube and the 2nd bellows tube (the one on the opposite side to the TB).

Most the DIY info I found is on the non egas models, good to see some pix and a great description for removing the large intake tube for egas boxsters . . . think I will be having a crack at this again before my new MAF and air filter get here :D Does anyone know if you can use CRC CO cleaner on the TB?

:renntech:

The cable between the electric motor and the lock is probably broken, open the rear trunk, remove the rear part of the trim and take a look.

I gave up on getting this done at the Indy who services my car and put me onto the dealer. The dealer said there were no cars with a 2 buttom key with a boot release . . typical and went on about replacement of the entire cable and labour involved. So I ended up trying a few bicycle shops to fix the broken cable coz it really does look like a bicylce brake cable. To see it just remove the black plastic cover in the rear centre of the boot. It's surprising to see there are actually 2 independant cables to release the boot, one on an electronic servo, the other the manual release from the drivers position.

After alot of running around I gave up on bike shops doing the repair and purchased a cable lock for 2 bucks from the local hardware store. My work is pretty primative but I can now remotely open the boot again. If anyone wants a pic to help them out let me know and I will post my first DIY on here LOL oh and yeah I'm a big fan of the remote boot release : D

We have had reports that using contact cleaner on the MAF can cause problems.

A couple folks here here tried it and ended up buying the MAF cleaner to "clean the contact cleaner" off the MAF.

Thanks Loren, I will hunt down MAF cleaner or just replace it, mine is the older 124.00 part so they are cheap enough.

Do you know if CO cleaner is any good to clean the throttle body? and is the throttle body D in the picture? As it was the first time I had opened the engine I was so tempted to spray the MAF especially after buying the security torx set, glad I resisted, but cant wait to get better performance. It really seems to has lost responsiveness up to the 4000rpm mark, it just hesitates, ALSO on occassion with cold starts it can shudder, smoke and on the very odd occasion mis-fire as reflected in the fault codes.

Do you know what the pipes labelled A and C are actually called and at how many kilometres they should be replaced? Do you think that both pipes being coated in oil on the outside points to any specific problem? Should I bother replacing or cleaning those pipes?

Looking at the pictures again I wonder even if the AOS needs replacement, from the top side of the AOS parts and Y tube they appear to not have any oil leaks on outside of any of the AOS parts, unlike the oil you can see on the other 2 pipes in the pictures A and C.

My ride has done about 82,000 kms :D

Ive had my ride a 2000 Boxster Semi Auto for about a year now and finally took a look at the engine.

Attached are the two pictures showing oil build up over pipes A and C. Does anyone know if this points to any problem in particular like replacing the AOS or cleaning the throttle body.

The Durametric error codes are as follows;

Error Codes P0102 P0107 P1126 P1133 P0300 P0302

Also is the throttle body shown in the picture labelled D as I will most likely open that up and clean it with CSR CO Contact cleaner which I think is also ok to clean the MAF with? Can anyone confirm that?

I removed the throttle body and the intake tube connected to it, and there is oil laying on the bottom of the tube:

There is also oil in the tube coming from the AOS:

So I guess next step is to change the AOS.

I wanted to remove the other intake tube, but there a small tube with a Y stuck in it, and I don't know how to remove it:

Can I just yank it without breaking anything?

Actually, what the easiest way to remove these intake tubes? Do you push the rubber rings on them or out of them on the manifolds?

Thanks to all.

(Sorry for the crappy cell phone pictures).

What year make and model of your car is this? I'm wondering if your car is an E-GAS model or not.

2002 according to his profile.

You can see the egas throttle body in the first pic in the first post.

Is the Throttle body for egas shown in the first pic on the RHS the mettal looking thing in the centre right of the picture with cooling fan like things facing the camera? I want to clean mine after i replace my AOS as my engine bay looks like his

996 with 80,000 miles and my rotors still have minimum thickness left, with equal wear between the front and rear. If they want to sell you new rotors, just go into the shop with them and watch them measure the thickness of the rotors, or demonstrate too much lateral runout, or whatever the problem may be. I don't think I've ever taken a vehicle in for a brake inspection where the shop didn't want to put on new pads and rotors, whether they were needed or not.

My 2000 Model has just done 84,000 kms and the front rotors are below wear and rears im told close enough to do them all at the same time. I was told in the past 2 services over the past year they needed replacement but never noticed reduced breaking. Am looking at getting a MAF from pelican parts so will most likely also get pads and rotors.

Hello Everyone!

Have been a lurker for several years; this is my first post. I have some information that may or may not be useful regarding MAF and throttle body. I bought a 2000 Boxster S in 2005 with 8600 miles on it. It ran nicely, but had evidently been sitting for a while. I replaced the tires and instantly got a much better ride. After a couple of months I got a CEL (I believe it was P1126). Happily, I had found this site and learned all that I could about the problem. I recalled one post where a gentleman said that he had a similar experience on a low mile car that had been sitting for some time and that he solved the problem by simply cleaning the MAF with electronic parts cleaner. I did this and it worked like a charm for over a year. Eventually the CEL returned and I cleaned the MAF again, thus saving money once more. It lasted another period of months before I got another light. I figured I had ridden that MAF sensor as long as I could and bit the bullet and ordered one from Paragon Products in Corpus Christi for about $240 US. It got here quickly and I installed it today. While I was in the engine bay I decided to clean the throttle body as my idle had been a little jumpy for a few months. Took it out of the car (I have some mechanical skills from helping my dad restore cars 25 years ago when I was a kid) and cleaned it with carb cleaner in the manner prescribed by this site. The car only has 30,000 miles on it now, but there was a significant buildup of carbon or whatever gets in there in the TB. In any event, I was fortunate enough not to have much trouble getting the plastic hose on and off and I think Loren is correct when he says having the car warm (not hot) can make this process a little smoother. Anyway, I cleared the CEL and took her out for a spin. I waited way too long to replace the MAF! I forgot what this thing can run like. I shifted into second gear and spun the tires enough to kick on the traction control and these are brand new summer tires. It's good to have her back. Hope I didn't bore you to death, just wanted to say that if you have MAF problems, cleaning it will shut off the CEL for a while, but go ahead and replace it. It's worth every penny.

Devin Giddens

Edmond, OK USA

You have been lurking for far too long, nice first post Im gonna order my new MAF from Pelican's in the next few days, had to take it out to get the part number and Im very tempted to give it a clean with the CRC CO contact cleaner

RMVD

well, did the test with unplugging the connector and then the battery like you said, and what do you know runs fine, no hesitation,.

reversed it, and runs like sh!t. so tomorrow i will be getting the new MAf and i hope its all fixed

that will be $10. :lol:

i think http://www.autohausaz.com has the best prices on MAFs these days.

I will be doing my first MAF clean and reset of the computer and just wondering do you guys drive the car without all the engine covers on or just idle it in your garage? What sorta time frame should you give the computer to adjust and therefore descide if its a MAF problem or not?

Yes, my mistake (Porsche has made this very confusing).

If you go from the 124 00 to either 125 00 or 125 01 then you need to re-program.

I have the older MAF in a 2000 Boxster the 124 part which I can get online. Is it actually worth getting the newer one and doing the re-program? Are there any performance benefits for the hassles?

I agree with Opposite Lock, there is not alot of info about the rear boot / trunk on this site. I have a 2000 Boxster and thank god the manual release works but the push botton on the key wont open the rear lid. I can hear the motor trying at the rear latch but it wont flip open. I enjoyed that part of the car very handy to throw ya crap in so you have nothing inside to roll around when your driving the beast.

Funny thing is I got the fuel filler fixed at the last service. The guy wouldnt have done it I dont think without the printed picture DIY guide I got off here. Problem there was the plastic pin looking closer was not sliding to lock the fuel filler cap. Again you could hear the motor trying to work but the plastic pin had snapped. 2 hour job mind you :D

If anyone has some idea about the rear boot issue I now have it would be much appreciated.