thedarkknight

Hi Loren,

Is it necessary to get the repair kit (bolt, expanding spring, securing clip), damping plate, warning contact, etc?

Can I just replace the pads and re-use everything else?

Thanks!

Well it is up to you.

We suggest the dampers but I've heard of folks reusing them - worst case you will have some squeal.

If the sensors turned on the brake pad light then one or more of them will have to be replaced (or jumpered).

You would need to look a the pin and spring to see if they are worn.

I just did my front brake pads today but forgot to get new dampers.

I seperated the dampers from the old pads and left them in the caliper. I was betting on them sticking to the new pads once they are under pressure.

I drove aound the block and I can hear the pads (or something) constantly (lightly) rubbing. I also get some occasional squeal when braking. Hopefully after 150 miles or so the pads will be bedded in and the noise will go away.

Did the noise go away? Also, did anyone determine if there is a recommended glue to use to reattach the dampers to the pads? The backs a pretty cheap to replace, but the fronts are a little pricey. I have squeal, and I am trying to determine if it will go away, can be secured or do I need to just pony up and swap the dampers :D

TDK

It is thought that the trouble of the long time was solved by replacing the carbon canister.

There is no intermittent buzzing sounds.

Idling seems to be stable not flactuating too much.

Moreover, RKAT gose up about -0.6 from -3.6.

I hope I can say good-bye to the fault code P1128 and P1130.

:rolleyes:

Did this clear the 2 fault codes? I have th exact same 2 codes and I have a either a faulty carbon canister or fuel vent valve. Please advise.

TDK

I ordered a Durametric also for my 98 Boxster and understand most of the values but not all. Did you find anything that might be a help???

Loren told me there is no "manual" but the OBDII manual for the particular DME in my case the 5.2.2, is a good source of info along with the service manuals. These are available from Sunrise imports. Check out the link at the top of the page, "Porsche parts at dealer cost" they have a good deal on boxster manuals and the 5.2.2 OBD manual.

Garth

BTW I used the Durametric to troubleshoot a check engine light. The codes said all the O2 sensors were faulty, the actual values showed the sensors weren't working as described on one of Mike Focke's webpages, http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/oxygensensors, I tried switching the precat sensors and the aftercat ones and that didn't work, they were just not changing voltage. I replaced all the O2 sensors and the engine likes it! Actual values shows the precats voltage fluctuating as described! I am a happy!

I bought this manual on eBay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-996...1QQcmdZViewItem

It has all of the Porsche 996 ODBII fault codes.

TDK

Well I decided to bring her down a bit, I have had a set of Gemballa Lowering Springs (made by H&R) in my garage for the last year. Gert helped me with the all the parts needed, I purchased Bilstein Sport Shocks, Euro rear bumpstops, also upgraded stabilizer bars. After looking at the factory stabilizer bar up front, I really didn't see much of a difference in the upgraded one, and it didn't look like a simple project to remove and install the new bar. So I passed on the stabilizer bars since Im really only looking for a lower look and slightly better handling on the track. Since the 996 only sees 1-2 track days per year I decided not to do the full PSS9's. The shocks were about $700 and I had the springs already $300. The stabilizer bars will go back to the dealer, so bumpstops were only $10. I started with the front since that was supposed to be the most difficult. I did one side on my own, but needed help on the other side, the difficult part is removing the strut while pushing down and avoiding the fender. This took two sets of hands. I have a air compressor so that came in very handy. Front was actually not that difficult, the rear was fun to say the least. You have to jack up the shock to line it up to fit the bolt at the bottom. Well that wasn't easy, of course once we figured out the secret the 2nd one was easier. All in all it was about a 5 hour project. I used the instructions from a guy over on the Rennlist board. They came in very handy. The ride is perfect height, not to low, I would say it lowered it about 3/4 of inch, and I think it will settle a little lower after more driving. As far as handling I noticed that it was slightly tighter around corners, and over bumps. Also I noticed that when I punch it, it didn't raise up the front end as much as it did before. I will get the full affect of the ride after Thunderhill on the 9th. OK here are some before & after pics...

Click pics for High Res Shots..

After

Also, who did you pick up the front bumper from? It looks like one I saw at Precision and NR Auto. Looks very nice on your car. The whole package is very tasteful.

Regards... TDK

Your car looks great - I am also thinking about lowering with H&R springs (already purchased, not installed), but I read several posts on PCA that it is bad idea to go any lower than ROW M030 because of potential risk of hitting the oil pan/engine block. Have you had any issues? I believe the H&R quotes about an 1" lower all around versus the M030 are 20mm F/10mm R (which isn't much difference).

Your thoughts would be appreciated!

What size tires are you running in the rear? I am debating between 295s and 305s.

TDK