Rixter

all 3 would make nice track cars...

weight can be changed very easy, just strip stuff off

as for performance, everything being equal I would take the 968 as it has more hp (though parts are more scarce if you wreck it)

the S2 is the same as most any other 944, lots of off the shelf mods available make sure it has the M030 option if you're going to be serious about tracking

boxster - not a big fan of the boxster, they handle pretty well, have decent hp, not that many off the shelf mods to increase hp significantly... has a tendency to act like a top if you spin out since a large portion of the weight is in the center of the car

if you're going to track a street car make sure you have track insurance

what auction company is handling the sales? is this an open auction?

the links you listed are old, just trying to verify current update

Loren is correct, vin doesn't give options... if you want to check 1 or 2 I would be happy to look them up for you

by that list I see the Sultan is finally liquidating some of his cars?

I might get it next year at an auction.The auction will be held again in few mths time around next year.

I saw this 928 at the auction last few mth. The car starts fine but the digital milage is not working.Is that ok? It's not driven since 1991. Like new condition.

And if there's other 928 at the auction, i might go for that. What to look for? Most cars have being stored.

928 didn't get a digital dash until '89, broken speedo in earlier cars is quite common (as it is with most Porsches)

buying at auction generally doesn't get you previous service records, so unless there are records plan on doing the timing belt/water pump job

the unibody is galvenised so rust isn't usually an issue, check suspension for torn boots/bushings, check all electrical components if allowed (windows, sunroof, lights etc).... since this car has been sitting since '91 you'll probably need to replace a good chunk of the rubber, double check fuel lines, tb/wp, flush all fluids.. etc, etc like any other car that's been sitting for 15+ yrs

front wiper is fuse#5 15amp, if fuse is good wiper motor may have froze due to non use, try taping lightly with a hammer or wrench to see if that unfreezes it... otherwise you may be looking at a replacement motor

happy to help, glad it was something simple and quick

did someone tie off the heater valve?

the 930 is CIS mechanical fuel injection (K-jet) and does not have a DME. Fuel/air mixture is controlled by the warm up regulator (when cold) and then by the mass air flow. I suspect you have an issue with the CD box or the fuel pump. Either could be on it's last legs and acting up once warm.

a 78 930 w/20k miles should bring $30k+ easily if it's in mint condition and documented,

please note: if it's a RoW (Euro spec) and the odo is in miles it's been swapped as the original odo for a Euro spec car would be in km

70 914-6 engine range 640 4001>>

80 911SC (USA,CDN) 640 0001>9999

could be either, but my bet is with Loren that it's a 914-6 engine

that's the early offset stock wheel painted white

DCAutomotive, Oklahoma Foreign..... etc , any Porsche dismantler

we're done...

much thanks to Todd for his advice, throttle body and programming

the intake issue was resolved by removing a section of the stock intake and replacing it with a section of piping to get under the frame

just a note for those who may do this, to scan the trouble codes you must indicate that the car is a 911 as the throttle body and DME mapping is from the 3.4

otherwise the car runs great, and is very quick

walk away... a poorly assembled body kit may cost you lots of $$ to get right, sounds like he tried to cobble together a bunch of performance parts that may or may not have been installed correctly or even be correct for the car

996.106.447.01 should be available from Pelican or any Porsche dealer or European car specialist for about $18

Including the becoming a contributing member part?. B)

monetary donation made, though I will "contribute" more from expertise/experience over time in the forums

I'd recommend using the 3.4 throttle body, bit larger diameter and bolts directly up to the 3.2, and the throttle cable just hooks up

one thing we're still working on is the air intake, there isn't enough room for the stock setup so we're having something fabricated to fit better

the car does run and drive with the original 2.5 DME, but we expect a noticeable difference with the later mapping

pic of the engine in, you can see how little room there is for the intake

If you want to know more about the car order a Certificate of Authenticity (COA) from Porsche.

Update:

The car RUNS! :D Runs rough, but it does run (no MAF hooked up, see below)

Sending the DME to Todd for proper fuel mapping, the intake will not align so we're going to need to fabricate one. Other than that everything is going exactly as planned.

G indicates '86 MY, the ZZZ indicates RoW car, PET versions available in the US will not recognize/accept this VIN

Motronic DMEs are rebuildable... an 85.5 DME can be used to run any 85.5-up 8v.. it may not run well, but it will run

double checking everything while awaiting the throttle body...

uh.. which MAF should I be using? PET shows about 6 diff possibilities, should I be using the original 2.5, 3.2 or a 3.4?

We are making good progress. Currently awaiting a 3.4 throttle body to continue. We have an idea on the 2nd plenum operation that may eliminate the need to hard wire the solenoid, will give an update when I know if it works or not.

the smell could definately be the cap on the back of the cam housing, this is very common

there are 3 small bolts that hold it on, don't tighten them.. the gasket is cork and you will crush the gasket and make the leak worse

also check the gasket around the cam housing itself, this is also a common area of leakage

neither of these is that difficult for a DIYer

The driver side power window in my 924 won't go up and im not sure why. I'm also not sure exactly how it works, theres a constant 12 volts going to both the terminals on the window motor and when i hit the switch it goes down to 0 volts. I would like to know what else i can do to diagnose this problem and also what cars i can steal the motor out of.

try swapping the window switch with a known good one to eliminate the switch

you can pull the motor and apply 12v directly to it to see if the motor is bad

all 924/944/968 window motors are interchangeable, so a left window motor from any other in this series will work