GT2IAN

Mikelly,thanks,I will give him a try,Ian

Sorry to hear about the accident. I'd recommend talking to Marksky over on 6speedsonline. You'll probably get two of the same or BETTER quality for the price of one EVOMs brand...

Mike

I just destroyed my r/h side Evoms intercooler by hitting a tree.I am covered by insurance and need to get a replacement.Does anyone know where I can get one[either new or used] or someone who can fabricate one?Does anyone make an equivalent product?Many thanks to anyone who can help

I had the same problem,turned out to be the MAF sensor.The standard MAF sensors seem to do this with certain types of aftermarket air filters[mine is an Evoms].My "check engine "light would come on briefly and then go off.Cheers,Ian

I have heard only good reports about Sharkwerks and it is great that they have developed their own product.

I thought you might like someone to actually answer your question!I have an EVOMS flash in my GT2 and I've had some problems.As far as I am concerned their product support is crap.Getting help from them is very difficult.

Boldis,I am not so sure that your rear rotors are no good.If you check with Porsche they have a service bulletin which describes exactly how much pitting/delamination is acceptable before replacement is required.The part # for Gen 2 front rotors is 996 351 032 94 and 996 351 031 94.I bought mine 2 months ago.I don't believe there is a Gen 3.Ian

Boldis,mine [2002GT2]look exactly the same on the rear.That is quite normal.The latest Gen 2 rotors [which I also have on the front] look different because they have many more fibres in them.The secret of keeping them in good shape particularly if you are going to do track work is to warm them up gradually so as not to pump too much heat in too quick[one lap should be enough]and then to do a cool down lap at the end without any braking if possible.On normal road work they rarely get hot enough to be an issue.

Boldis,I would like to get one too.Do you have the contact\order details?

Boldis,if it's not the MAF it is probably plugs,plug packs or fuel.Normally it will show a fault code and that should show on the durametric.Mine does a similar thing after I have washed it but it eventually comes good once the engine is hot.It doesn't show any codes but I am sure it is moisture getting into something.Does it improve after a long run?Are you using the correct octane fuel?

Boldis,it shouldn't surge like that.It may be a faulty MAF.Try dropping to a lower gear and see what happens.When reversing into a parking spot mine shudders and clunks.Apparently it is the locking diff grabbing and letting go.It is normal for a GT2.

Does anyone know the correct bedding in procedure for new PCCB pads and rotors?Is it the same as for steel i.e.bed new pads on a used rotor or use used pads to bed in new rotors?And how long is the bedding in required before hard use?The old Gen 1 rotors are still on the car and I could install new pads to bed them in before installing the new Gen 2 rotors.NOTE:Before you all tell me to change to steel thanks but I already have all the PCCB parts!Any information would be greatly appreciated,Cheers,Ian :)

My car sat for two days without a battery while I got a new one.When I put the new one in I can't say I noticed anything unusual except the need to enter the radio code.So is it such a problem to disconnect the battery or even take it out if I am away for several weeks?

Sinister,was the car hot or cold?Had you just washed it?Did it come good after a while?[Or is it still at the stop sign?] :clapping: Might be the MAF.

WROSS,I am about to go away for six weeks.Why should I not disconnect the battery? ;)

Thanks Guys.

Octurbos,that mounting device looks ideal.Where did you have it mounted in the vids?Also can you tell me where I could get one?I assume that the camcorders recommended by Savowood and JeTexas would all fit onto it via the threaded hole underneath.Cheers,Ian :)

Can anyone recommend the best video/camcorder set-up for track days?Also is there a model that can taken out of the car and be used like a normal camcorder?Contact details/websites would be much appreciated,Ian

I think you would know it if the teeth were shot.It sounds to me that your starter motor solenoid is on the way out which means that it will spin the motor but not fast enough to throw out the bendix to engage the flywheel.When warm the bendix slides out easier than cold.First I would check your wiring connections at the starter motor because a slightly loose or corroded terminal can cause similar symptoms.Second, an auto electrician can on most cars bypass the solenoid to get full power to the starter and this will show whether this is the problem.It would need to be qualified to work on porsche.Alternatively,take it out yourself and get it tested on a bench-you can check the flywheel teeth at the same time.Good luck,Ian :)

Pierre,I was impressed with .9 on a stock TT but more impressed with the speedo reading! :o I suppose you were just going to the shops to get some milk? :lol:

Skymast,another cause might be water or other impurities at the bottom of your fuel tank.When you fill up the incoming fuel stirs up the bottom and some of the water[or whatever]gets sucked into the system before it settles down again.There may be an additive that disperses water which you could try.In the past I have tipped in a 1litre bottle of methylated spirits and that has worked but NOT in a Porsche only carburettor types.There is probably a procedure for draining the tank as they all build up crap over time.

a problem is that you have correlated the fuel fill up to the performance problem....this could be pure coincidence (vs. causal). what tool did you use to read the codes....it does sound like a leak or plugs/coil packs.

It is had to describe but it is basically a full loss of power for very short periods of time under acceleration. Like limp mod but much more dramatic. i has something to do with the gas becuase it only happens AFTER fill up and for about 5 mins. Wish i could describe it better.

a problem is that you have correlated the fuel fill up to the performance problem....this could be pure coincidence (vs. causal). what tool did you use to read the codes....it does sound like a leak or plugs/coil packs.

It is had to describe but it is basically a full loss of power for very short periods of time under acceleration. Like limp mod but much more dramatic. i has something to do with the gas becuase it only happens AFTER fill up and for about 5 mins. Wish i could describe it better.

My GT2 does the same every time I wash it! In your case it sounds like the fuel filling is creating some kind of air or vapour lock which is purged out on the first run.I would be checking fuel tank breather set up wherever that is.Cheers

The leaf blower is one of the best ideas I've heard.After an earlier post [about drying brakes without going for a run] I purchased one and it is so good at blowing off dust and water without having to touch the car[various rubbers and seals excepted].

I found the hidden wires too.Until today I thought they were something put in by the previous owner but now it seems everyone has them! :rolleyes:

Thanks Guys,contacted sunset imports.PCCB rotors are $4142 each,less than 1/2 the price in Australia.If they are the new improved version I will replace both front rotors.Thanks again for the lead.

I bought the same wheels[different offsets]for my 996 GT2 from WheelDynamics.They are identical weight to the OEM GT3 wheels and beautifully made.The only visual difference is the rears have a thicker centre with the bolt holes recessed deeper.This shows up as not as much dish as the OEM wheels but it would take an expert to pick it.Also my GT2 rims are 12" not 11"so they don't fill out the guard quite as much.I have ordered 11mm spacers to rectify this.