umn

Not sure I like this idea.

I don't like it either for all the reasons you just mentioned, but my garage has got no electricity and last time I've seen the sun was last autumn.

I like the heated washer jet idea, that should work. Many thanks.

Gents

I've got a MJ2000 996 and intend to fit a Battery Brain device which automatically disconnects the battery when the voltage drops below a certain level.

The little box sits on the battery but also needs to be connected to switched power so it does not disconnect the battery whilst the car is running.

Does anybody know if there is a switched power cable that I can tap into somewhere in the boot (trunk), ideally near the battery?

I had look at the wiring diagram of the amplifier which lives up there, but it only seems to have permament power and and a control signal that tells it when the radio is turned on.

Many thanks

Uwe

You should change it wherever you live. The issue is not so much the oil weight but the HTHS (high temperature high shear) viscosity. I've explained it here.

Porsche considers the pads spring a replacement item because they can be overheated and lose tension. My understanding on the bolts is that when they are installed (the first time) they are torqued to a specific stretch limit and if you re-torque them they lose some strength. For most daily drivers that is not likely a problem.

...

As you said, replacing the springs is just a general precaution that practically all brake manufacturers recommend.

The bolts are not torque-to-yield, so they don't lose any of their strength when re-used. The reason Porsche recommend changing them is that they have some protective coating that wears off once you've installed them.

It's not a bad idea to change them, particularly if you live in a corrosive environment, e.g. close to the sea. I have seen bolts strip the thread out of wheel carriers a couple of times, particularly with the new bolts that are slightly longer than the old ones and stick out the wheel carrier a little bit. That said, most workshops would not delay repairs just because they haven't got new bolts available. :rolleyes:

Cheers,

Uwe

Okay, after reading the manual more closely it answered my question. The additional work of driving the booster pump while bleeding is only necessary when removing air from the system. Simply flushing the fluid does not require this step.

...

That's absolutely correct. People don't seem to understand the difference between bleeding the brakes (if there is air in the system) and merely changing the brake fluid.

The manual states two different procedures and not even the workshop in the factory in Stuttgart runs the PSM booster pump when they just routinely change the brake fluid.

Cheers

Uwe

...

Manuell is not a German word.

...

I can say with reasonable authority that it is a German word. :beer:

Cheers,

Uwe

Hi guys,

Does anyone know what exactly was done to stiffen the 996 chassis throughout it's life? I race my 1999 tub as a 2004 so any changes that were made during that time I could apply. Actually, I'm required to apply. I know thay made them stiffer but I don't know how they did it.

Thanks,

Jim

Hi,

Amongst other things, they changed the side members, seat moulds and roof frame from MY2001 to MY2002, which increased the stiffness of the chassis by 25% for the coupe and 10% for the cab. They also fitted an extra tube to make the chassis stiffer against side impacts. I've attached the text of the Technical Service Information. It's in German, unfortunately I haven't got a copy of the English version.

Cheers,

Uwe

Rohbau

Umfangreiche Verstärkungsmaßnahmen im Schweller-, Dachrahmen-, und Sitzmuldenbereich steigern die Biegeund

Torsionssteifigkeit nochmals um 25% bei den Coupe-Fahrzeugen und um 10 % beim Cabriolet.

Neben den Kotflügeln, die vom 911 Turbo übernommen wurden ist der Rohbau durch die Modellpflegemaßnahmen

in verschiedenen Bereichen geändert.

Die B-Säule wurde zur Aufnahme des neuen Gurtstraffers und Gurtkraftbegrenzers überarbeitet. Im Tunnel- und

Sitzmuldenbereich ist zur Querverstärkung ein zusätzliches Rohr mit Seitenabstützung verbaut. Im Tunnelbereich

wurden Änderungen zur Aufnahme des neuen (Tiptronic S) Getriebes durchgeführt. Damit entspricht die

karosserieseitige Aufnahme der Getriebelagerung der des 911 Turbo.

Im seitlichem Dachrahmen ist ebenfalls ein Verstärkungsrohr verbaut.

...

Actually, this probably does not represent the problem you fear:

...

Hi,

The problem I see is that at least in the UK insurance contracts are contracts of "uberrimae fidei" or utmost good faith and a failure to disclose material information could allow the insurance underwriter to avoid the contract. The question is simply whether the prior loss of keys would constitute material information that should have been disclosed to the underwriter. At the end of the day that would be a question of fact, but I wouldn't take my chances.

Cheers,

Uwe

Anyone know where (North West England) I can get a key blank cut for my C4. All the spare keys were lost by previous owners. Got hold of a fob just need the blade and to get it programmed.

Should I buy a cheap blade off ebay - will anyone cut & program this for me? Is it just main dealers who can do this or auto-electrical places?

Thanks.

Hi Mike,

As far as I understand only Porsche Centres can reprogram the transmitter, because you need a key learning code from the Porsche IPAS system.

But from a legal point of view I'd make sure that I'd disclose to my insurance company in writing and with written acknowledgement that all the spare keys have been lost by the previous owner. Otherwise you might well have a major problem is ever the car got stolen. Each transmitter (within your set of three keys) has a unique code, and if a key is lost or stolen, this unique code can be deleted from the system so it can no longer be used to start the car.

Regards,

Uwe

is that really what it takes ...

Unfortunately yes. Also, it's very hard to reassemble it without introducing any rattles.

Cheers

Uwe

...

This is the most ridiculous thing I've read. Do I also need to use Porsche approved air to fill the tires?

Absolutely! Porsche approved air comes only from selected Swiss mountain resorts and has undergone a number of stringent performance tests.

Seriously, of course any decent screen wash will do. However, when I worked at Mercedes-Benz, we did have some problems with customers using low-quality screen wash and even more so with chemical de-icer that you spray onto your windscreen. Customers used to complain about wipers streaking or making noises, even when recently replaced. Some of that was due to the screen wash. It has to be said, however, that the single-arm Mercedes wipers were particularly prone to streaking. Also, some of the chemical de-icer stuff is quite vicious and can make window seals deteriorate more quickly.

Cheers,

Uwe

...

...

Does anyone here know the answer???

The answer is no. Some years ago there was an article in the Autotechnische Zeitschrift, where Porsche explained the workings of PSM. As far as I remember PSM mainly kicks in if the system thinks that the slip angle at any wheel exceeds 8 degrees.

There are systems around that let you choose when PSM kicks in by providing two alternative mappings. IMHO not a bad idea.

Incidentally, Horst von Saurma, who holds most of the Nurburgring lap records in Porsches, told me that on an 8-minute lap the difference between PSM on and off is only about 5 seconds.

Cheers

Uwe

...

Porsche has no idea what they are doing with their oil recommnedations.

...

Exactly. Maybe you should call them up and let them benefit from your knowledge.

Cheers,

Uwe

Sounds like lifter noise which is 'normal' for a few seconds on a cold start.

Exactly. It's likely to be just the hydraulic tappets, nothing to worry about.

Basically when you stop the engine, some of the valves are in an "open" position. The resulting force presses the oil out of the hydraulic tappets and it takes a few seconds for them to refill when the engine gets started again.

Cheers

Uwe

my car has a similar problem/feel, actually feels a bit light in the front at speeds over 85

What "feeling a bit light" means is of course everybody's individual perception, but the car should feel absolutely rock-solid literally all the way to top speed. On German motorway-blasts, I can happily take my hand off the steering wheel at 160 mph to change the radio station, pick my nose or whatever I want to do to relieve boredom.

If my car was "feeling light" or indifferent at higher speeds (for me that's >120 mph), I'd check in this order:

1) Tyre pressure set to OEM spec

2) No spacers on the front axle

3) Toe-in correct

4) Camber correct

Quite often it is a problem of no toe-in on the front wheels.

As for the vibrations, as you said this could be wheel balancing. If you don't feel it in the steering wheel but it's more the whole of the car slightly vibrating, then it is more likely to be slight flat-spotting of the tyres. Quite often happens to my tyres towards the end of their lives.

Cheers

Uwe

...

There's nothing in the owener's handbook telling me I should do this. Anyone know why it's not a specified service check?

Not all service work necessary is specified in the check-list. This is why you go to an authorised Porsche dealer who sends his mechanics on various Porsche courses and charges you about 100 quid per hour.

If Porsche UK state that cleaning the draining channels is part of the service (I'd ask PUK for written confirmation), then I'd probably argue that the dealer was in breach of an implied term under s13 Supply of Goods and Services Act 1982, which says that the dealer must carry out the service with reasonable care and skill.

Cheers,

Uwe

...

Lately I have noticed increased oil consumption (about 1 litre every 750-1000km). There are no obvious oil leaks and everythign else seems fine.

...

1 litre per 1000km is definitely too much for normal use (track days are a different story). On a 996 engine with less than 100,000km on the clock, you would expect no more than about 0.2 per 1000km, if that.

The reason that car manufacturs deem consumptions of up to 0.5l/1000km normal in their manuals is simply to fend off warranty claims during the first 10,000km, where higher oil consumption can happen.

Personally, I don't have to top up any oil between 20,000km servicing intervals, and that includes spins on the Nurburgring as well as 150km/h-plus blasts on German motorways. My car now has more than 100,000km on the clock.

What user HarryR writes is correct, except it is normally not water that gets collected in the sump but petrol which gets diluted in the oil, but the effect is the same. It is therefore important to check oil comsumption over a longer period of time.

Cheers,

Uwe

...

In Paul Frere's "Porsche 911 Story" the author states that the 3.6 L motors from 2002 on have thicker main journals giving a more rigid crankshaft.  Also, the gear box has an additional input shaft bearing next to the clutch to control vibrations.  Is there any data that suggests the 2002 and newer models are less prone to RMS leaks?

...

There is obviously no publicly available data on it, but if you talk to the guys at the factory, this seem to be the case. Particularly the third input shaft bearing has helped.

The 997 crankcase has an additional crankshaft bearing, which again seems to have improved things. And the new Aisin gearboxes have also been designed with the problem in mind.

However, all of these measures only incrementally alleviate the problem, none of them seem to have really nailed it.

Cheers

Uwe

...

Now here is an interesting topic. WARMING UP THE ENGINE. What do you guys do?? I start the engine, wait for about 5-10 seconds, put the car in gear and start moving. I do not rev the engine above 3K revs until the temp gauge is at least on the number 8 of the dial. I have been told that idling the engine when cold for a while is BAD. When all systems are go and all the dashboards lights are out it's time to GO !!

...

Yep, that all sounds sensible.

The reason that idling a cold engine is bad is that during cold idle the DME makes the mixture very rich in order to compensate for fuel condensating on the cold intake and cylinder surfaces. The condensing petrol makes the oil thinner which in turn increases wear.

One thing to keep in mind though is that if the temperature gauge is in the middle it means the coolant is warm but not the engine or the oil. Oil temperature significantly lags water temperature. This is true even in a 996, where there is a combined oil-water heat exchanger so the water should warm up the oil during the initial warm-up. Still, once you've got about 80 Celsius water temp, your oil is only at about 50-60 Celsius, so I'd wait a little longer. The whole thing is not that critical as modern synthetic 0W-40 oils give you almost full protection from about 60 Celsius, not 85 like the old mineral oils.

Cheers

Uwe

...

If your comment about 3.5 mPa.s specification by Porsche is correct, then it sheds a whole new light on Mobil 1 0W40.........with regard to being Porsche approved. The Mobil 1 website lists the 0W40 specification for ACEA/API shear at 3.6mPa.s. Follow this link and you can check:

www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_0W-40.asp

...

Porsche requires compliance with ACEA A3, which in turn stipulates HTHS viscosity of 3.5 mPa.s or higher. Mobil 1 0W-40 is OK, because once an Oil is above 3.5 mPa.s it is fine, it's not the more the better. A bit similar to being allowed to drink alcohol in public: Once you are 21, you are fine. It's not that once you are 25 or 30, you are allowed to drink even more... :cheers:

Cheers

Uwe

Hi,

I was wondering if 5w-30, instead of 0w-40 oil is used in 996, what effect or feeling it will be when driving?  Accelerating slower?  or bad to engine?  Or nothing at all?  <_<

Thanks in advance.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

5w-30 is totally unsuitable. The lower viscosity and also lower viscosity index make the oil simply too thin at higher temperatures.

The biggest problem, however, is the reduced HTHS (high temperature high shear) viscosity, which in 5W-30 Oils is usually only about 2.7 mPa.s, whereas Porsche recommend 3.5 mPa.s according to ACEA A3 specification. This could easily result in main bearings failure under high engine loads or otherwise simply excessive wear.

Cheers

Uwe

No noise when I turn the wheel.  I only notice it at low speeds once the car is warmed up a bit.

So we've got a vote for 45 Nm on both since ar38070's comments pertain to the C2.

Any idea where the mount to the "side member" is?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Part #20 is the combined cross member and side members. Stabiliser on side member is part #18.

If there is no noise when turning the wheel, I don't think the bearing #14 is to blame.

Cheers,

Uwe

I wouldn't be surprised if the source of the creaking and groaning was number 14, which is an axial ball bearing. Does it also make this noise when you turn the steering wheel?

In answer to your question: On a C4, it should be 46Nm top and bottom, because both bolts are M10. On a C2 it's different, because the top one attached to the wheel carrier is M12.

Cheers,

Uwe

Ok. Just got some weird advice from Porsche UK.

They have stated that the new RM seal is only compatible with 997 & Post 2001 996's. They tried to sell me a 996 revised in place.

...

I think that's rubbish. Mine is a 2000 model and the 997 seal number 997 101 212 00 was fitted at Porsche Stuttgart three weeks ago.

I can fax you the invoice if you want. Obviously it's in German, but it's got the part number on it.

Cheers,

Uwe