mp911

UPDATE - went to a different smog testing station - this time with a Tech who took good care and seemed to know what he was doing - and passed with no problems.  Thanks for the help.

My apologies, the reason given for the car not passing was OBDII COMMUNICATION failure.  They could not get their machine to read the OBD on my car, something like a bad connection.  When I got home and used my duramteric, it was fine, no codes or problems at all noted with the emissions systems.

2001 C2 with 95K miles here in Illinois.  Brought it in for the required emissions test to the same facility as a few times in the past.  Technican had hard time finding the OBD port (seemed inexperienced) and then spent a lot of time messing around with the connector to get the machine to read my car.  Finally was told the car failed due to OBDII failure.  "Take it to a repair shop and come back."

Came home and grabbed my hand held scanner, plugged it in, scanned - no problem.  No codes, MIL off, all sensors ready.  Then plugged in my duramteric and spent the next 15 minutes playing with it, trending date, checking for codes, looking at all the modules.  No problems except I have a code on the airbag indicating low voltage but the airbag light is off (subject for another post).

Unless someone has run into this before I am thinking of heading to a different test station and see what happens.  You only get three chances before having to jump through a pile of hoops though.

Please help with lost code:

2001 C2

CDR-220

Type 4462

sn Y5048416

I guess it depends on where they are stuck. They glue to the back of the pads so the putty knife should separate them there. If the round pieces are stuck in the caliper, as happened to me, it took a quite a combination of penetrant, and claws, pry bars etc to finally get one of them out. No real trick that I found just kept trying.

I put tape around the magnetic number on my hood to keep from blowing off. At the end of the DE weekend I pulled the electrical tape off and a 3" strip of clear coat came off with the tape. Is there any hope of feathering this out then sanding and rattle can spraying clear coat on the hood with decent results or is this a complete repaint?

2001 C2 Seal Gray

Ok, when switched to parking lights, my left one is on and right one is off. High beams both work and regular beams both work.

Is there any doubt that I just need to replace the "parking light bulb" on the right side?

Anyone happen to know the part number off hand? Is it difficult to access and replace this bulb on a 2003 996?

Thanks!

Just replaced mine using the instructions in the manual - pretty easy.

Here is what I ordered:

999-631-140-90-M97 Position (Parking) Light Bulb Inside Xenon Headlamp, 12V - 6W (H6W), Longlife, 996 Carrera 2/4 (1999-04), 996 Turbo (2001-05), Each Brand: Osram-Sylvania

Heck, change the oil just for fun! :)

But I do wish I have those cool hydraulic lifts. I'm thinking of paying a shop to allow me to use their lifts. :) has anyone ever done that?

Heck, buy your own lift, here is one: :)

http://www.maxjaxusa.com/index.html

Regarding the MAF Sensor, you can get an original equipment (Bosch) one from someone like Pelican parts at a fraction of the cost of the Bosch sensor in a Porsche box.

I don't fill up my Motive - I just fill up the car's reservoir to full and attach the empty Motive, then pump up to around 12-15 pounds. Works the same, and you don't have to worry about cleaning out the Power Bleeder.

same here

Brakes, clutch (soon), maf sensor, code troubleshooting, wheels, ims bearing, rms, no bull advice, wine...

This is the best.

I wrapped my socket in electrical tape

49

I get a similar sound on a much narrower band of about 67 to 69mph. I attribute it to mostly worn out Pirelli Pzeros and was going to wait and see what it was like after new rubber. Or maybe it's just our fine Chicago area highways....

I get a similar sound on a much narrower band of about 67 to 69mph. I attribute it to mostly worn out Pirelli Pzeros and was going to wait and see what it was like after new rubber. Or maybe it's just our fine Chicago area highways....

someone once mentioned Hawk (?) pads are low on dust.

Not mine. I have Hawk HP Plus. Great on the track for stopping, but lots of dust and brake squeal noise on the street.

I changed mine to latest version. It cracked on a corner on the back side, probably too thin in that location due to molding. It has plenty of nooks, crannys, and corners for a crack to start.

IMHO because it is such a pain to replace I would go with latest tank and cap. I took the support bracket out and that gave me room, but I think lowering the engine slightly might have been better. I will see next time ;)

I had same codes and replaced MAF sensor, problem solved. Got it from Pelican Parts, make sure you get the right one based on your VIN (e-accellerator).

2001 C2 with 80K miles

From another post:

===================================================

P1126 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Lower Load Range, Bank 1 – Above Limit

P1133 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Lower Load Range, Bank 2 – Above Limit

Potential causes:

– Incorrect signal from MAF sensor

– Intake air system leaking

– Fuel pressure too low

– Volume supply of fuel pump too low

– Fuel injectors fouled

P1130 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 2 – Above Limit

Potential causes:

– Incorrect signal from MAF sensor

– Intake air system leaking

– Fuel pressure too low

– Volume supply of fuel pump too low

– Fuel injectors fouled

– Exhaust system leaking

The problem is not your O2 sensors.

The first place to start is the MAF.

Your mechanic should know he needs to look at the MAF readings at idle and 2500 RPM. If there are not within spec then the MAF needs to be cleaned or replaced.

=======================================

I have the codes P1126 and P0102.

Durametric readings on MAF are:

Idle (~780rpm) - MAF ~ 17.2 to 18.4 kg/h

~2500 RPM - MAF ~49 kg/h

Any thoughts on if these are in range, or a place to narrow these down?

Thanks

Mark

Looks pretty close. Have you tried cleaning the MAF?

(chart below is for MY2000 and up egas 996 cars only)

Cleaned it today, codes have not returned. I will keep an eye on it. Thanks Again.

Mark

Well, the codes are back. After cleaning the MAF sensor with CRC MAF Cleaner, and driving at highway speeds (on way to a DE track day, kept going, car did well...) have the following codes read with Durametric:

P1126

Porsche fault code 356 - Multiplic. mixture adapt.

lower load range B.1:

P1133

Porsche fault code 358 - Multiplic. mixture adapt.

lower load range B.2:

P0102

Porsche fault code 115 - Mass air flow sensor

below limit value

P1125

Porsche fault code 357 - Multiplic. mixture adapt.

upper load range B.1: exceeds limit value

P1132

Porsche fault code 359 - Multiplic. mixture adapt.

upper load range B.2: exceeds limit value

Time for a new MAF sensor?

Mark

2001 C2 with 80K miles

From another post:

===================================================

P1126 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Lower Load Range, Bank 1 – Above Limit

P1133 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Lower Load Range, Bank 2 – Above Limit

Potential causes:

– Incorrect signal from MAF sensor

– Intake air system leaking

– Fuel pressure too low

– Volume supply of fuel pump too low

– Fuel injectors fouled

P1130 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 2 – Above Limit

Potential causes:

– Incorrect signal from MAF sensor

– Intake air system leaking

– Fuel pressure too low

– Volume supply of fuel pump too low

– Fuel injectors fouled

– Exhaust system leaking

The problem is not your O2 sensors.

The first place to start is the MAF.

Your mechanic should know he needs to look at the MAF readings at idle and 2500 RPM. If there are not within spec then the MAF needs to be cleaned or replaced.

=======================================

I have the codes P1126 and P0102.

Durametric readings on MAF are:

Idle (~780rpm) - MAF ~ 17.2 to 18.4 kg/h

~2500 RPM - MAF ~49 kg/h

Any thoughts on if these are in range, or a place to narrow these down?

Thanks

Mark

Looks pretty close. Have you tried cleaning the MAF?

(chart below is for MY2000 and up egas 996 cars only)

Cleaned it today, codes have not returned. I will keep an eye on it. Thanks Again.

Mark

2001 C2 with 80K miles

From another post:

===================================================

P1126 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Lower Load Range, Bank 1 – Above Limit

P1133 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Lower Load Range, Bank 2 – Above Limit

Potential causes:

– Incorrect signal from MAF sensor

– Intake air system leaking

– Fuel pressure too low

– Volume supply of fuel pump too low

– Fuel injectors fouled

P1130 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 2 – Above Limit

Potential causes:

– Incorrect signal from MAF sensor

– Intake air system leaking

– Fuel pressure too low

– Volume supply of fuel pump too low

– Fuel injectors fouled

– Exhaust system leaking

The problem is not your O2 sensors.

The first place to start is the MAF.

Your mechanic should know he needs to look at the MAF readings at idle and 2500 RPM. If there are not within spec then the MAF needs to be cleaned or replaced.

=======================================

I have the codes P1126 and P0102.

Durametric readings on MAF are:

Idle (~780rpm) - MAF ~ 17.2 to 18.4 kg/h

~2500 RPM - MAF ~49 kg/h

Any thoughts on if these are in range, or a place to narrow these down?

Thanks

Mark

What do you think?

http://www.rangerproducts.com/cart_product...php?prod_id=404

What do you think?....i think rangeproducts.com has less respect for the p-car, than for their jack. :o

Other than the height and lack of jack stands, I have seen somewhere on this site that suggested the cross member is a good jack point alternative to the engine, assuming you have a jack low enough to reach it.

There are aftermarket devices for removing air pockets. Porsche came out with their version a few years ago.

I replaced the plastic tank on my Box last year. The mechanic friend said you did not need to bleed on a Box when only the tank is replaced. Our tank is higher than a 996. Did not ask about a 996.

In the old Box shop manual you brought the car to operating temp, then reved it from time to time (with the bleed valve open), to move any air pockets to the tank and out the bleed valve. Or something like that.

The old and new shop manual methods make sense if you run a repair place. Porsche is not going to tell the mechanic to drive a customer car around on public streets to heat it up and to get any air out. They want that car sitting in the stall, at the dealership.

I did it like Loren. I lifted up on the wire bail thing and went for a 20 minute drive. Then closed the valve.

Where is this bleed valve (or "wire bail thing")? In the coolant tank?

Regards

Kare

Right next to the blue cap.

Can someone explain how this valve works and why? On my car (2001 C2), when the engine is cold, moving the wire handle (bail thing) from horizontal to vertical will move the velve stem up to open (I assume). But when my engine is hot, the valve stem is up and moving the bail thing will make no difference.

Either a bad cap and/or tank.

If the cap part number ends in 00 then it needs be changed.

If the cap is 01 or later then it is likely ok and the tank is leaking. In a few cases both are leaking.

New cap seems to have done the trick. BTW - Part number stamped on new one ends in -02. Smell is gone as well, plus the engine actually seems to running a few degrees cooler. Love it.

Thanks,

MP

Background:

2001 C2 - 78,000 mi, 6 speed, US car

Bought used in Aug and have put on about 1,000 mi since. I am second owner.

Original owner had most work done at dealer (where I bought it)

Issue:

Today while driving to work, stopped for coffee, came out and saw coolant leaking from an overflow hose from the coolant tank. Small amount, but coolant has gone from about 1/2 way between marks on the tank to the low level mark on the tank. Engine did not overheat, and runs normal temp, slightly above the 180 mark. Does not have any leaks of fluids of any kind otherwise. The engine was off when the discharge happened.

Drove car for a while after notcing fluid on ground, discharge has not returned, car ran fine. Checked under the car when I got home and things look fine.

Only other item to point out is that on some occassions with hot engine, I have noticed a slight smell of antifreeze, but no leaks and no loss of fluid in the tank.

I would not think it normal to spit out coolant, especially without an overheat situation. Is there something with this vent or valve in the tank, possibly?

PPI was done by local independant, and everything checked out.

Thanks.

MP