geza

Clear Third Brake Light for P96 Cars

For every P96 and GT3.

Available in smoked or silver version.

www.carnewal.com

Clear/smoked Third Brake Lights for P86 Cars

For every P86 without Aerokit.

Available in smoked or silver version.

www.carnewal.com

The cam lobes actuate rocker arms or work directly on the surface (top side) of the tappet. This means that tappets stick after the valve is opened - and if open (by being stuck) far and long enough, the piston crown will hit the valve head and force it back on the valve seat.

Misfiring and backfiring are both possible symptoms. A compression test on each cylinder may help isolate any tappet issues - but you should also get the opinions of very seasoned Porsche technicians on your specific model car.

Hello everybody,

I just bought a 2003 Boxster with 9600 miles.  Here is the question, at approx. 75 mph I feel a vibration on the steering wheel.  I am assuming that it should be pretty smooth.  Am I correct?  The car is still under warranty but I don't want to take it to the dealer and have them tell me it is a maintenance problem at $120.00 an hour.

Any suggestions? or ideas?

Thanks

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There may be a balancing weight missing (thrown) from the front wheel/s........get the dealer to balance both front wheels to see if that is all it is. There should be zero shimmy or vibration at that speed..............

Dead battery car ligher thing doesn't work. I don't know which fuse does release in 99. I can't find the emergency hood cable. I saw from the pic that it is a metallic cable. I moved the wheel all the way over. I can't remove wheel b/c car is lowered. Do I need to take out black wheel well cover?? How do I remove those little button type holder without breaking them. I am frustrated someone help. Remember 99 996 Carrera.....

One more thing how are you supposed to get to the cable behind the headlight if you can't take out the headlight without the hood being open??

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You can fish for the engine cover release cable behind the drivers side (LH) tail light assembly (get a thin hook under the bottom rear lens where it blends with the top of the rear facia - be careful to coat it with some tape to prevent scratches). Once you are in, you can connect a charger/jumper to the positive post near the top of the intake manifold, and earth the other at the air filter box mount bolt..............

Dear Everybody,

Can you tell me what time the fan will be "ON" attached on rear lid for 996 ??

I saw it sometime running but something stopped !!

Thank you !!

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The fan runs depending on the engine temperature........last weekend, very hot in Chicago, the fan was on when I stopped the car. The fan then switched off (car in garage, engine off) and then switched back on and ran for about 10 minutes before it finally stopped...........

Call TPC direct - trust no one...................

I am looking for comments on the pros and cons of having my wheels chromed.  Casual surfing of the net has produced lots of conflicting information.  Thought I would turn to the experts and get some advice.

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look at this site, and call them for their opinions:

www.wheelenhancement.com

Then, get the counter view from these folks - and decide which way you'd like to go:

www.classiccomponents.com

These people do stuff for bikes as well - and Harley riders are usually just as critical of their bike aesthetics as any Porsche owner is about his/her car..........

check out www.porsche.com/911clubcoupe

Integrated Garage Door Opener DIY

I got tired of forgetting to remove the garage door opener at Concours and getting points taken off, so I decided to integrate it into the center console.

I got my inspiration from Kirby's Garage Door Opener DIY and added a few twists. 

I took the existing garage door opener from Genie

and opened it up to use just the circuit board.

This particular circuit board had lots of extra unused traces and holes that went back to were the switch was (probably for different enclosures), so I just picked 2 and ran about 5 feet of wire from each one.  Then I put a little cap over the switch to prevent it from being pushed and wrapped the whole board in electrical tape. 

I wanted to put the circuit board transmitter as high in the car as possible to get the maximum sending range.  I settled on putting the transmitter at the top of the drivers side A pillar, secured with some velcro.  There is plenty of space under interior A pillar cover which goes over the transmitter with no problems.  The 2 wires are run down the A pillar in the wire conduit that is there, and along the bottom of the drivers side of the dash to the center console.

This arrangement gives me a 1.5 block range on the transmitter, which is further than I can see the house.  The only downside to this arrangement is that you have to take off the A pillar cover to change the remote control battery.  But this only need to be done every other year or more, so I don't think it is an issue.

The parts that I used for the switch and its placement are from a 996 Targa.

The batwing is called a Sole Switch Trim, P/N 996-552-335-01-01C and lists for $12.69.

The Switch is called a Tip Switch, P/N 996-613-119-10-A05 and lists for 23.56.  This switch is used to control the sunshade on the Targa.

The plug blank is one I had laying around is probably under $5.00.

Wiring the actual switch is pretty straight forward.  There are 5 spades on the switch, 3 are used for the Garage Door Opener, and 2 are for the switch icon lighting.

The 2 outboard vertical spades are for the lighting of the switch icon.  Looking at the switch from the front, the spade on the left is the + lead, and the right spade is the - lead.  I took lighting power from the seat heater switch lights.  On those switches connector the brown wire is -, and the blue/red wire is +.  The blue red wire is pigtailed between the 2 connectors, so that is the giveaway on it.  I used inline cable splicers to connect the new leads.

Back to the garage door switch, the center 3 spades are what are used for the wiring back to the remote control circuit board.  The bottom horizontal spade is for one wire connection, and the 2 vertical spades above it are ganged together for the other wire connection.  This way you can push the switch in either direction and the garage door remote will activate.

So there you have it, another nice way to integrate your garage door opener into your 996. :)

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Very smooth.............great information!

I definitely fit in a 997 seat/car better.  The steering wheel has much more movement telescopically and does tilt in a 997.

The problem is:  I like the 996 much better.  I'm looking at a 2004 C4S Cab.

Is there a way to lower the seat in a 996?

Could I just buy 997 seats out of a wrecked one someday and would they fit?

I appreciate any help?

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I seem to recall an option for the 996 models - lower seat height by smaller seat frame spacers (between seat rails and floor) I think they were 10mm lower than the standard seat mounts - may not be anough, but would be something......call your local Porsche dealer and ask the service manager if such an option exists........

Hello all,

I would like to bring up oil consumption again. My car is guzzling 1 qt. approx.

750 miles. I have 10500 miles and it has been doing this since I purchased the car

new in 2003. I change the oil & filter every 5000 miles and only use Mobil 1 0/40.

I followed the 2000 mile break-in rule. (which was hard)

The next step is taking it to the dealer. Any clue? Is this normal?

What will they do? :eek:

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My experience on a 2004 40th anniversary 911 is as follows:

Changed the factory Mobil 1 0W40 at 1000 miles. Have had 2 changes since then with Mobil 1 15W50. Oil consumption seemed a little high until we just hit the 3000 mile mark - then it (oil consumption) basically stopped - or has settled down dramatically. Followed the break in procedure faithfully as well. Our car has the X51 power kit - and in the Porsche TSB, it stated that the engine does not develop full horsepower until it reaches approximately 6500 miles. This suggests these engines - X51 power kit or not - are fairly tight for some time, which means long lasting if they are looked after.

You probably won't get a true indication of oil consumption until you get to around 10,000 miles. At that point, one quart per 1000 miles is within factory guidelines anyway.......

As long as you are not getting blue smoke - all should be fine.

Anyone have any opinion as to the value of insulating (protecting) the surrounding water lines from the underside of a 2004 996 - to protect them from the radiant heat from the exhaust headers?

I'd be interested to learn if anyone in the forum has used thermo shield wrap for the exhaust manifolds to contain some of the heat.........?

For those interested in who is selling the latest high quality/detergent spec (not highest octane) gasolines, check the following site:

www.toptiergas.com

Hi all,

I am looking to get a pair of European size license plate frames with the PORSCHE logo on but cannot find them anywhere - anyone know if they are available anywhere?

There is a company called EU TAGS (WWW.EUTAGS.CO.UK) that used to sell them but they didn't have the license to use the PORSCHE logo so had to send them to the factory to be be destroyed.

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Try www.ttstuff.com - look for euro license plates, maybe they sell frame individually

My theory is that winter stored cars are more prone to RMS since no lube for months during storage.  I believe there are RMS cases for daily drivers so my theory isn't 100% proof.

If your theory is true, would RMS stop if you just change to thicker oil?

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It is not so much as a 100% theoretical fix that thicker oil equals zero RMS leakage, but I think that ultra low viscosity oil could be a factor. I understand there have been 996 and Boxster case machining issues that did result in a slightly out of round condition where the RMS sits, resulting in an elliptical shape of the seal vs. the perfectly (almost) round crankshaft seal journal. What I can see is that the case suppliers use sophsticated machine tools and statistical process control to make sure that cases are bored and finish machined to exacting tolerances. The logic that the case tolerances are still flawed seems a bit of a stretch to me, and the fact that 0W40 engine oil starts out with a viscosity that is so low may be part of the problem. I also acknowledge that seal designs have improved dramatically over the years, and I have to assume that the RMS seals used by Porsche would/should be as technically advanced as the 0W40 oils they approve.

I just think there is more to the RMS story other than dimensions and replacements that seem to continue to leak. People are still having the problem after all these years of reports - and from what I understand by reading the PCA website, we are, at this point, not sure if the 997/997S is immune.

Folks, after reading a lot on the new Porsche 0W40 engine oil approvals, which appears to be a move to have a global engine oil, and avoid the need for a seasonal recommendation, I am thinking there may be a link to RMS leakage and ultra low engine oil viscosity.

I use Mobil 1 15W50, and have done so since reaching the 1,000 mile mark on a 40th Ann 911. I see in the owners handbook that 15W50 is acceptable when ambient temp. is 50F or higher. I live in Chicago and store the car in the cold months, so running below 50F is not an issue for me.

My experience many years ago as a mechanic, when low viscosity oils were becoming more prevalent, was that seal technology had to change, particularly for the crankshafts and front/rear timing covers due to the fact that the thinner oils had a marked tendency to weep past standard seals. Labyrinth seals for the rear crankshaft journals were commonplace to combat this particular situation, and had to be very carefully installed etc.

I am wondering if any others out there have an opinion on this, and particularly if users of higher viscosity engine oils have experienced less/no leakage past the RMS vs. the owners who have strictly used 0W40. Maybe those of you who have workshops would have more evidence - either way.

What if and what would be the outtake of someone putting in about maybe 32 fluid onces of anti freeze in each tire and then airing them up to the correct tire pressure? How would a car handle and would it keep the temperature cooler in summer and maybe prevent flat spots in the cold after extended parking? Has anyone tried it or heard of something like that being done before. What do you think? :rolleyes:

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You would get degradation of the rubber due to a reaction with the antifreeze. Correct air pressure is all you need, along with wheel alignment to specs.

What if and what would be the outtake of someone putting in about maybe 32 fluid onces of anti freeze in each tire and then airing them up to the correct tire pressure? How would a car handle and would it keep the temperature cooler in summer and maybe prevent flat spots in the cold after extended parking? Has anyone tried it or heard of something like that being done before. What do you think? :rolleyes:

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