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Hamad

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Posts posted by Hamad

  1. Very nice.

     

    The seat belts are an easy swap. Your dealership can do this now problems. The belts are about $700 per set (for front and back). Plus labor. They are available in red, yellow, and silver. I have the silver belts in my 991 C2S X51. They are very nice.

     

    The LED lights are NOT plug & play. I also have these, and they are great. I got them because I wanted the halo DRL's. And the coolness factor.:) Your lights look great, because they are black (right?) and work great with your white car. The Bi-xenons are awesome. The LEDs are not much (if any) better. PDLS is great, if you have that option (mainly the dynamic cornering).

     

    Enjoy your new car.

     

    Did yours require the engine swap?

    Thank you!

    Yes mine has the PDLS and they are black, which as you said go very well with the car's color.

    On engine: It says that my car was produced in October 2013 but the delivery note says that the delivery date was August 2014, so it might be one of those that was recalled while in factory and had its engine replaced. I asked my sales executive and he said that he "wasn't sure" and didn't have info. Im not concerned tbh but Is there a way I can find out? A friend had a full refund earlier this year from the same dealer following the recall. So i assume that I'll be safe even if anything happens. I myself had an engine failure on my (earlier production) 997 gen1 and my engine was replaced at no cost to me. Those had an intermediate shaft issue

  2. Hi guys

    I've traded in my C2 MY13 (17000km) with a brand new MY14 991 GT3!

    The car has been ordered by the dealer so I didnt pick the options however it has almost every option I wanted. The right color composition, etc. It was also a good deal especially that the nearest delivery date if I order one will probably be in 6-8 months. I'm picking the new car tomorrow :D

    I have few questions, if I may:

    1- how easy is it to replace the seat belts with another color? I'm thinking of red belts to match the stitching

    2- can I replace the headlights with the LED fitted ones? If yes, is it worth the investment and technically recommended?

    3- can anyone direct me to an online version of the 991 GT3 user manual?

    I apologize if answers to some of these questions are available elsewhere in the forum. I tried looking but couldn't find it.

    Regards,

    Hamad

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    post-34896-0-09476500-1415720237_thumb.j

  3. The car was delivered few hours ago. To be honest I couldn't wait longer to have the signs removed :) I want to drive it over weekend and can't wait longer.. I might have them remove the signs when I take it in for service.

    This car is powerful! Much more powerful than my old 997!!! :D

    Now take it easy Hamad. You want to break it in carefully.

    Will do, thanks! :D I'm in love

  4. That's fine. Personal preference.

    I just picked up my brand new, custom ordered 2014 991S Cabriolet with PowerKit 2 weeks ago. I ordered it model designation delete. It still comes from the factory with the "PORSCHE" badge. At the dealership, I had that removed, and replaced wit the flat blacl "PORSCHE" from the GT3's. Whatever floats your boat. Enjoy!:)

    Thanks! Do you have a picture?

  5. Hello,

    I'm picking up my new 991 next week. It's a Porsche approved 2013 C2 with around 12,000km on it. I'm very excited and look forward to getting behind the wheels. I was wondering what you guys would prefer for the back sign? I'm not quite convinced with the "P O R S C H E 911 Carrera". Everyone knows that it's a Porsche... I'm thinking of taking off the signs and keeping the 911 only.

    Thoughts?

  6. Hello all

    I got the check engine light earlier tonight when I started my car. Stopped it for 3 hours then tried again and the car won't start. Feels like a dead battery and I got German words on the screen. Seems like the battey needs replacement (which is expected as it's been there since the car was purchased).

    I carefully drive the car, only weekends. I usually drive with high rpm's (which is normal for these cars) but never reach the red zone. Last night I was enjoying the sports mode and reached 200km couple of times. Not sure that's the cause for check engine light..

    Today i was treating the leather inside the car and the internal lights were on for a while which killed the battery probably.

    Question is, is it the dead battery that caused the check engine light or could it be something else (misfire etc.) I will take it o the dealer tomorrow but would like some advice beforehand.

    It's a 997s MY 2005 manual.

    Thanks in advance

    H

  7. Hi guys,

    what's the average mileage for clutch replacement? I changed mine at 50,000km about two years ago and when I took my car for its yearly check/service (around 66,000km now) the garage gave me a quote to replace the clutch again! I tracked my car about 2 times over the past two years and I occasionally drive fast..

    the quote included:

    -door arrester?

    -clutch

    -clutch release bearing

    -clutch operating cylinder

    -clutch master cylinder

    -battery (although mine works fine but they say its old!!)

    does this make sense to you? or they're trying to make money out of me? I got my pre-owned warranty renewed, however, the guy at the garage said I might need the new clutch within the next 2-3000km.

    your advice is greatly appreciated.

    regards,

    H

  8. The 6 ranges are:

    Range 1: 7300-7500 RPM

    Range 2: 7500-7700 RPM

    Range 3: 7700-7900 RPM

    Range 4: 7900-8400 RPM

    Range 5: 8400-9500 RPM

    Range 6: 9500-11000 RPM

    You really don't need to worry about anything other than ranges 4 to 6.

    I would not worry about any of those over revs - likely one missed downshift could do that.

    I would get the misfire problem found and fixed.

    Loren,

    I over reved my car once last month while tracking it. was coming out of a turn in second gear and was concentrating on getting the exit right and went over 7500 RPM. the car 'chocked' and I changed to third immediately. nothing to be noticed happened to the car (neither performance nor engine light). I am still worried but the car seem to be running just fine.

    your advice is appreciated

    Hamad

  9. Yes, Porsche changed from 15,000 miles on the 996 to 20,000 miles on the 997-1 and then back to 10,000 miles on the 997-2.

    Read some of the problems Mercedes and Toyota have had with long oil change intervals and engine damage caused by sludge. Both have had class action lawsuits.

    Whether you drive a Toyota or a Porsche I don't really think you want to go too far or too long between oil changes.

    What are the recommended time and/or miles to avoid this?

  10. Guys,

    It rained heavily in the morning on Friday and my session was due to start at 1pm. I was worried they will cancel the whole thing but luckily it didn't rain after 9am which meant we had a dust-free track all afternoon :D

    I had so much fun and it turned out that you don't have to be a 'pro' to enjoy these things! Everybody was at same level nearly and those who were good were very helpful in giving tips and even supportive in the track (been patient around corners if you know what I mean :)). I wasn't slow compared to others thanks to my car :rolleyes:

    I have to say I never knew what this car is capable of till I had those 2 full hours of very high RPM (30min each, is that bad for the car???). I did around 200km in those 2 hours, max speed of 225km on a straight of 1.1km, and used a tank full of fuel!! The car was on sports mode all the time B)

    Anyway, there were no problems in my car (except the clutch pedal getting stuck half way couple of times which never happened after leaving the track?! and some rock chips in the front (the wax idea wasn't as good as it should be)). There was a guy in a 996 GT3 who had a leak in his radiator and a Saleen which had one lap and broke down!!!! I'm glad I wasn't in their place!

    Thank you Mark, Philip, Paul, and Marc for your advice! here are some pics from my friends phone (Im still excepting more from a guy who was taking photos around the track but I will only post more if there is something different to see (e.g. the Bugati that came out of no where!)

    Thanks,

    Hamad

    post-34896-1261260652_thumb.jpg

    post-34896-1261260763_thumb.jpg

    post-34896-1261260902_thumb.jpg

    post-34896-1261260939_thumb.jpg

    post-34896-1261261000_thumb.jpg

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    post-34896-1261261166_thumb.jpg

  11. Get yourself a good helmet, Snell rated. Don't worry about lap timing, switches, stalks, etc. unless your instructor tells you to. You will have an instructor, right? :)

    Check your tire pressures on arrival, after every run. DON'T let out air as mkaraoglan advises, otherwise you'll lower the minimum cold pressure and your car will be unpredictable in the turns. The tires are designed to run at the hot pressure. Invest in a torque wrench or bring the one you have and check your lugs after every run. On the straights, glance down at your gauges and check water/oil temp and idiot lights for any signs of trouble. If it's a driving school or driver education event: watch your mirrors and be ready to give point-bys, and be patient with others in your rungroup if you're ready to pass. Before every run, check your brakes with a good firm push in the pit lane before entering the track.

    IT'S NOT A RACE (well, unless it is, and I REALLY hope it's not your first time out!)! Concentrate on being smooth, "slow in fast out" like mkaraoglan suggests. Turn on your Sport or PASM button for flat cornering, or the car tends to hop a bit under lateral load (mine does anyway). Don't turn off your traction control, that's the button that F1 drivers press for 10/10ths driving, or Jeremy Clarkson presses to shred tires. You should be doing neither of those.

    Tire squibbles come off with a wash, or a bit of compound at worst. a little low-tack masking tape around sensitive areas will do, but I dig your wax idea.

    PAULSPEED is a track veteran, and many of his breed like some extra camber. My advice to those modding their car is: wait until you can outdrive it before you try and improve it. If you really want to improve your car's performance from the start, spend your money on track-rated brake pads. They'll resist fade and wear much less than the stock pads, the only trade-off is noise. Brake pad changes can be done in a parking lot with a lug wrench, jack and 20 minutes of your time. It's very easy.

    "Don't lift" means that you should never come off your throttle abruptly in a turn. If you do, you'll have an off-track experience. And if that happens, don't panic! Let the car go in the direction it wants to go and get off the throttle. If you get more than a wheel off where I drive it's customary to be flagged, so be ready to explain how it happened and why it won't happen again.

    Have an awesome time! We look forward to your pics.

    Mark

    Mark,

    Thank you so much for an awesome advice! I really appreciate it!

    Yes, there will be an instructor, who should take me for a couple of rides (once him driving and then me driving), then ill be by myself. I was hoping to use the crono for the first time :) its been there and I used to time my business visits only!

    It's an open track day not a race so your advice is very valid. I have filled my tires with hydrogen (which according to some posts here better than air). I will make sure I keep checking the pressure after each run.

    Im still new to this so I will leave the modding for next time, if any! :)

    I will post pics as soon as possible.

    Thanks again!

    Hamad

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