kam

I've just installed a seltl of lcamber plates with -2.6 negative camber.

It does reduce understeers. My lap time at Pocono without much camber was 1.03 and with the new camber setting I'm at 1.00.

Get the TRG plate or GT3 lower control arm.

Where is the DIY section? There was a section describing how to install the 3rd radiator to the 996. I need that article again so I can remove the bumper cover to clean the side radiators.

Thanks

I am considering getting the AWE Tuning Exhaust System (headers/mufflers/tips only) on my 06 997 C4 Tip. Has anyone installed one of their exhausts? After talking with Garret Lim at GIAC, he mentioned this is what he has on his TT and that it's very close to stock in idle and partial load but all business with the throttle open. A little bit on the $$$ side and I want to find out if it's worth the extra cash. They claim +39 crank hp, +31 crank tq with full system (incl cats) on the 997S.

Would love to hear any experiences people have had with these systems.

Their site: http://www.awe-tuning.com/pages/porsche/index.cfm

video/sound files/images/dynos on site.

I can't give you any advice on AWE's products but I can tell you that they really do lot's of research and developments.

I am a member of the PCA Riesentoter region so as Todd from AWE. I always see Todd testing new products on the track. They also have a dyno at their shop.

I personally have a lot of confidence in AWE's product even though I don't have any of them because I can't afford them. If I got the money to do mods, AWE's products will be my first choice.

Kam

This red light stuck on issue did not start until 2001 when Porsche went to the electric lid releases and added a button to the remote.

Split the case and remove the battery and put it back in. If the light is still on then buy a new battery and put it in the wrong way for about 10 seconds, then put it back in the correct way. Instructions on how to split the remote to replace the battery are in the owners manual.

If that does not work then most likely you have a bad remote.

Not only for 2001 and on. My 2000 996 have this issue too.

has anybody used or know anything about the brakes being sold on e-bay. I'm doing my homework befor I need them. I would like to replace everything at once....rotors, pads and sensors! The drilled Zimmerman look the part...what have guys heard!!

Thanks Aaron

I would go to the sponsor links to find Suncoast Porsche. They sell OEM parts at the lowest price.

has anybody used or know anything about the brakes being sold on e-bay. I'm doing my homework befor I need them. I would like to replace everything at once....rotors, pads and sensors! The drilled Zimmerman look the part...what have guys heard!!

Thanks Aaron

I would go to the sponsor links to find Suncoast Porsche. They sell OEM parts at the lowest price.

Sorry. It should be the link on the home page: · Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost

hi everyone, I just bought a 1999 996 and was wondering how reliable is the engine on the N/A models compare to the turbo models? I hear plp. having issuses with RMS leakage and clutch replacing every 30k-45k miles. Are all these issuses for the turbo models mainly or both? I really like my car alot but stories like these just scares me abit.

thanks in advance

The RMS happens in the some 996 engine. I heard more RMS on non-turbo car then turbo. Actually I have not heard of RMS issue on a turbo car.

My 2000 has 50,000 miles on the original clutch and it seems working fine so far. It all depends on how the previous owner(s) drive.

I have a friend who sells cars and got his father in law and himself a 99 996. One C2 and the other C4. He got both cars at a very low price like high 20's.

The C4's motor lose power while tracking at Watkins Glen. There were noises comming from the motor and he bought and installed a factory rebuild motor from BrandyWine Porsche. The cost by BrandyWine was very reasonable.

His father in law's C2 found oil in the coolant. The car is still in the shop.

I guess when you buy a used 996 you really need to check the history and see who owns it.

Most people don't have major problems with earlier 996's. You just have to watch out.

Good luck

Kam

Very easy.

You're using existing bolts to install the plate.

Jack the rear end up and secure it uisng jack stands.

Please the plate just underneath the oil pan and try to match the holes on the plate with existing bolts around the oil pan.

You may turn the plate around to find the correct orientation.

According to the Carnewal website, the plate weighs 0.8 kg.

That can't be much of a skid plate.

I think it protects the hoses around that area more than the case.

Hi,

Just wondering why the stock air box has lots of factory holes in the right bottom of the air box ? These are clearly in the engine compartment sucking up nice hot air ? (ie not good). They clearly pick up their fair share of the air because the immediate filter above them is dirtier than the rest after only 1-2000 miles .. Mind you, I guess any air from the engine compartment / lower to the ground will be dirtier than on engine lid...

Are porsche sacrificing a tiny bit of performance for some added induction noise - or is the funnel to the engine lid too restrictive at full throttle ?

I'm tempted to block them up to see what difference it makes ... anybody else done this or have any ideas ?

?

Richard.

Are you sure those are factory holes?

Guys,

I was looking for a replacement for my 295/30 rears & noticed Kumho were selling that size now, price on the 'Rack was $177 a piece versus $377 match my Michelins on the front!

Did a little research and the only -ve I could find was that they were "cheap". Well, I figured worst case I'd gamble the price of a single Mich and dump them if they suck (also, I'm not averse to being cheap!). So far after a couple of hundred miles they appeared to be pretty good. I started making the tires work hard this morning and had the PSM kick in, it happened right at turn-in felt like it was slip at the front. Looking for a wet deserted parking lot to investigate further...will report back. Thinking it maybe something to do with the miss-match too.

Anyone else tried them out?

I'm current on my second sets of Kumho tires (cheaper model than yours) and they work fine for me on the street and as rain tires for the track.

Don't mix tire brand / model. Use the same model on all 4 corners unless you know what you are doing and for a good reason other then price.

can put on the stock 18 inch turbo wheels (factory is 225 front and 265 rear)....Also, if I buy new wheels what is the max 18 inch tires and wheels I can fit on the car? Ideally I would like to put a 235 or 245 up front and a 295 or bigger in the rear, but I don't want to hear a bunch of rubbing and scrucbng. Note - I will be running michelin pilot sport cups for the tire and the car will be lowered 30 mm front and 20mm rear. I have no aerodynamic kit on the car and would be willing ot have fenders rolled if need be.

Also, has anyone tried to retrofit the GT-3 front camber plates to a 996?

Thanks in advance.

VMAN

Do you mean the GT-3 front strut mount?

I just pulled up Labor Day weekend Club Race results for Rd Am........just for what it's worth........all classes, about 250 cars........I only saw one (1) car.........I actually thought there would be a few more.

If you check out club races in the Noreast you will find 3 to 5 996's in C.

Just Riesentoter region has 3 996's in the C class.

Been there, done that, got the t shirt!

PSE, zero hp. Fabspeed/GHL probably a small gain.

Airbox, 1-4hp, a guy dynoed a fabspeed one awhile back (with BMC1 I believe). One guy actually lost power on a dyno with the evo box, who knows.

Really the best mod for a C4S is the X73 suspension, total transformation of the car into a very aggressive Mr Hyde. Usually go on sale a couple of times a yr. at Suncoast, Braman porsche at a descent price. Gert sells it too, but with the exchange his prices blow.

I may have a set of GHLs for a C4S if you're interested. PM me

what is a GHL?

Muffler

Driver's Ed is not racing.

I can't wait for the answer and hope that the procedure of doing it is not too involve.

I want to know how too.

Somebody suggests that you could bleed the car once and then go out for a drive to engage the ABS a couple of time.

Go back and bleed it for a second time. It would probably work but I don't want to bleed it twice.

That's what I hope to hear. I've ordered the AP adjustable drop links. They look good in pictures.

Links and bars should arrive tomorrow.

Can't wait to install the bars.

For those who have installed GT3 adjustable sway bars on their 996's:

Can I use the stock rear drop link for the rear bar?

I ordered the bars and AP adjustable drop links for the front but not sure about the back?

Thanks

Kam

Let us know what you find out.

Thanks

Kam

The 996's handle beautifully in the rain without PSM.

Just make sure you have enough thread in the tires.

Steve:

Nobody knows except you.

Now tell us why you ask such a question.

Kam

:huh:

Wheel bolts 996.361.203.02

I heard that the silicon based fluid is very hard to bleed.

You might need a new clutch soon.

Just turn it off and hit the brake when you're out of control.