ivangene

sucks man, good luck getting them to accept responsability....

ATE is great but can be hard to find locally...

Castrol GT LMA is excellent and easy to find, we use it in all street cars that see duty like yours. I suggest 2 of the large bottles (maybe about 30 oz? I foget) for a complete flush

If you have a power bleeded I also have found it way easier not to add fluid to the bleeded (only air) and add the fluid only to the resevour as it becomes low (watch careful or you introduce air into the system and have to start over) but it makes it way easier to clean up - also remove as much fluid as you can from the resevour before adding new so yopu dont have as much "mixing" (I use little syringes from the pharmacy, they are free and disposible)

lastly any open unused fluif... recycle (discard) as it will absorb water on the shelf... the stuff is cheap so no need to take a chance later of adding bad fluid

hate to be Dr obvious... but how about calling the dealer and just asking them to mail you the parts - grand total will maybe set you back $20.. those things are cheap - I replaced both sides at once so they all looked new rather than hit and miss, those rubber things tend to break off anyhow... do both sides

Sunset Porsche Oregon

You can also look at Pelican IIRC they have full diagrams of the PET on file so as you search for your parts they show you the pictures

awe, here it is

http://gallery.rennlist.com/gallery/album651

note multiple pages (see top)

looks like a lot of salt in there.. make sure and do a really good rinse!!

if you look behind the drivers wheel, there is a hole... blow in it backwards and you will see where it comes out near the place you took the pics. the other side is ... darn, I forget... but its easy to spot, somewhere near the battery there is a hole.. they are both pretty easy to spot if you just stick your head in there and look (maybe use a flashlight) - remember its a drain, so it will be LOW....not up high

without going all postal on you - here is my advise... if you are going in there 100% replace the IMS bearing and check out cam/IMS chain and IMS/Crank chain tensioners - replace case bolts that can be reached (around 4 of them IIRC) and change your AOS

leaks can be from these places and the IMS bearing is the #1 think on my list of things to do to any 996 that doesnt have it done

the oil separator (also called the Air/Oil separator - or AOS) is located on the drivers side near where the motor and transmission mate. Its function is to remove oil from air inside the motor and return the oil to the case and the air to the intake

this is a part that is know to fail. Many many have been replaced. Part costs under $200 and labor is about 6 -8 hours depending on the car (tip/manual, C2, C4)

see pic

+1 for bleed your lines - air/moisture is a classic mushy pedal maker

If you are near Seattle I will help you do it, I have a power bleeder you/we can you too

are there details as to how he checked them to determin they were bad? That would be useful. If you know they are bad, replace them with OEM is good unless you have wanted "more" out of your car and are willing to loose some things to get it. Be careful, its a slippery path :)

That is my DIY for the radiator fan on PPBB (new link - http://www.ppbb.com/phorum/read.php?6,1509...04#msg-1509504).

With this hack, the fan will go on automatically; no need to fuss with a switch. The procedure is identical for the 996. You remove the relay, put in a jumper wire, reinstall the relay.

DUDE!

That worked perfect... now I KNOW its the resistor AND I dint need to pull the wheel well cover out.

My car thanks you!!

Ed

pretty **** nice !!

Any idea on how to make a 996 rear lights look like the 997? I was thinking, maybe using the rear fog lamps, as if they where stop lights, so fitting inside a two filament bulb could make the effect closer to a 997...

LINK to someone who did it

here is a link with pictures of a conversion - (you might have to sign in to see the pictures)

godd luck!

IMO this is completly normal and well withing the limits of acceptable. - as long as it doesnt go below 1/2 at idle I would not worry - your car moves a ton of oil around..almost more than any other car out there... it is not an issue to see these numbers...

yup, it just pulls off with quite a bit of force... you can give a gentle wiggle (twist) and then it will come off all ta once... be sure to protect it and your face as when it does cut loose it is rather quickly

GL

I had the same issue, My socket was bad. The one that the bulb plugs into. There was rust in the bottom and the wires no longer made contact. I tried to fix it with some tin foil and wire pieces. It worked well but bothered me as I knew it would come back to haunt me. I started looking for a replacement. They are really hard to find !!! BUT I lucked out and DC auto in NY sent me a new one from a salvaged car (Porsche would only sell it attached to the headlight for like $900 !! )

SO if you can swap the socket from the right to the left (require removing both headlights, un plugging the socket and swapping sides) and it works... find a new socket... try junk yards and best of luck... report your findings too

Ed

I dont see any reason to have a spare on hand... its a simple job and my 10 y/o son did mine for me...just clean the plugs and seats well before re-install and tighten to the recommended torque...

having completed this DIY a couple weeks back I can assure you that on a C2 this is not a simple job (and I am told on a C4 its differant still)

The job might be done from the bottom but I did it from the top based on what I was told on Rennlist. A freind did his from the bottom but had the tranny out for a clutch, even still he claimed it was a challange.

Let me know if you want to do the job I will link you to a good bit of info on my job, and what to watch for to make it easier

Ed

Mine did this toowhen coming out of a near spin... but in SLOW-MO action replay it was discovered that my hand likes to hit that lever when I get excited...(found after several more times) I had to change a couple minor things with the nut behind the wheel to fix that one!!

GL with the issue

pushing close to 109K on my 99' C2

Great thread with great numbers!

So on my 99' C2 the heater control has a couple sections of one digit number out when its at 80 I have a reversed "6" for the 8 and at 68 I have sort of a small "0" then the regular "8" so its just a couple on the first digit. all the 70's look great (gawd I hate saying that for some reason LOL)

I picked up a used unit that is correct for my year 996 653 101 03 but before I just plug it in, I saw I might have to configure it? If it doesn't work, can I just plug my old one back in or will I also have to configure it since it was removed?

I am not 100% sure the new (used) one works as there is a slight mark on the display...

Any chance of making one work from using parts of the new to fix my old one?

Thanks for your thoughts

Ed

take off the front bumper

LINK to DIY on Renntech

secure it with "something better (bolts and nuts)

If you have to, you have to

GL

Tip or Stick?

I was looking at your maintenance.... AOS $600 and Tranny Service $313

those are at an indy or dealer....

(I did DIY for both of those)

you change your own oil ? (also 9q and 9.3q... do you not change filter every time?)

congrats on the miles... I am at 108k and happy today knowing you are still running strong ! ! !

I replaced my AOS a few days ago, while doing so I removed the intake on the drivers side. I noticed a LOT (IMO) of black build up on the walls of the intake as it heads to the valves. Also "some" in the upper intake, but not near as much.

I thought about cleaning what I could manually, then thought... I dont think having one side clean, and the other side not clean was a good idea ? (ballance) plus didn't want to risk haviing some large piece drop into the combustion chamber and do who knows what.. So I buttoned it up (new gaskets and clean surfaces of coarse) and she is running fine...

Now I am thinking... is there a way to clean all 6 of those?, am I loosing power? causing poor air mixing? .... blah blah blah...

So anyone have any suggestions?

99 C2 108k miles, runs premium Shell gas, oils change up to date, car runs on regular trips long enough to warm up, no other issues at this time

Thanks

looks even better on a black porsche,,,

+1!!!!

correct, the amberectomy will not work on those.

Your side markers are easy to swap out and will cost ~$30-50

I sold a piar of clear lights on ebay, they do come up every now and again. I think I got about $500 for the pair. IF you buy a pair, remember your old lights can be re-sold for some amount... maybe $150-200. Tail lights... same thing.

Have you ever seen how big the headlight units are.. Thats why they cost 5 bones USED

Here is another wat to do it (pics) I think this is just tint for windows, you could ask a tint shop to quote it for you if you like these.. (not my car, but local and I have seen it. Not bad and maybe cheaper than the other ways around this problem

GL