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Johnny-5

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Everything posted by Johnny-5

  1. I still haven't gotten around to this and the only reason why Im pushing it off is that alternator removal. Any tips on removal and is it that much of a PITA? Im getting some codes but I don't remember them off hand and Im just wondering if the Air Cut Off Valve is a common failing part or if its mainly the Electric Change-Over Valve that's more common? I believe the Change-Over valve is the easiest without having to remove a lot of things? Any clarifications would be great. Im about to order the parts and thinking if I should just replace both or if I can get away with just replacing the change-over valve? Any help would be great. Thanks
  2. Thanks for the info. Ok so this is a PCM1 so I was misinformed. Im guessing this is older than 03 if that's the case. Its not the Fiber Optics setup PCM2 that I know. Yea Ive been pondering on an aftermarket unit as well but I like the fact that its a factory Porsche setup and is why I really wanted to go this route. Its still up in the airs though.
  3. I was wanting to do the full navigation conversion on my car so picked up a complete kit. Its a PCM1 so it works for my 2000 model. I just don't want to take my dash apart just yet but want to know if it turns on and gets power, etc. Just a simple power test is what Im wanting to do.
  4. Thanks for the post Loren. Im not able to provide you exact model as I bought this from another member. Its out of a 2003 996 is all I know.
  5. Sorry Loren was out of town for the weekend. Anyways it states PCM on the front where the old school tape deck opening is. Im assuming its PCM1 is what people would call it. Hope that helps. Just need to verify that this powers up and don't want to take my deck out to test it. Thanks, J5
  6. Hi I have a factory 996 headunit that is not currently in the car and would like to power test it. I know on aftermarket decks its just the matter of hooking up power, etc and it turns on. But with a factory head unit is that possible? The wiring is in the car itself so Im assuming I would have to touch the prongs individually if that's the case and would have to be careful not to hit any other prongs or it can short it. I know the best way would be to remove mine and hook it up but Im not wanting to do that if possible. Thanks in advance.
  7. Nice car the wheels look great on the car! Thanks for the additional information. I didn't want to chance it so I ended up going with 10" in the rear. Tires will eventually have to be replaced but its wrapped with 295.30.18. Ill throw the wheels on and will see how it goes but this set should be fine.
  8. If your able to check that would be great. Would the 2000 fall in that category or is it just the 1999 models? Thanks for the heads up on the 19's that's another reason why Im glad I went with the 18's over the 19's.
  9. Sorry to hear about all that is going on with you right now. First off hopefully your wifes dad gets better that's always more important than a car! As for the car do you have full coverage? It sucks you have to pay for the deductible but hopefully its low enough to get your car fixed. I got rear ended years back and the body shop didn't fix the spare tire well which I would have never known about till I got rear ended again (people here in cali cant drive) and when brought to the insurances attention they are avoiding me and busting out 3 year past bs, etc. Im still trying to figure out what I can do to get it fixed. Besides the fact keep your head up and hopefully everything works out! Good luck with everything and prayers to your wifes dad on speedy recovery!
  10. The wheels Im thinking of picking up this weekend are after market wheels with a lip so I believe is why the offset is 62 18x10 rear and 47 18x8.5 fronts. I don't believe Ill have issues with that small of a margin??? Currently I have the .turbo twists 18x8.5 + 50 and 18x10 + 65. I just don't want rubbing or clearance issues. Im like you I was debating on 19 but I decided to go with the 18 for more ride comfort and handling. Don't get me wrong the 19" looks awesome but I just don't want to deal with the potholes and bad roads here in Cali.
  11. Does anyone have 997 Turbo Wheels on there cars NB 996's? Just curious on fitment? Anyways Ive been going back and forth on 18" and 19" Wheels and I believe I may just stick with the factory 18" Wheel Size but Im wondering if we are able to go + or - 3 off factory offset specs? Mainly thinking of going lower. Factory 18" Spec Offset 18x8.5 with 50 offset 18x10 with 65 offset I believe these numbers are correct???
  12. My rear window is yellowing pretty bad and noticed that theres one little area that is coming apart and would like to know if its possible to replace it with a glass window using my exisiting top. Top is excellent condition minus the rear window and the zipper area that is somewhat coming apart. Ill even settle for ordering one online or anywhere else that is reasonably priced and installing it myself or though a shop depending on how hard it is to do. Anything to help with costs would be ideal but dont want to open a can of worms saving a bit here and there and causing more issues!!! Thanks in advance!
  13. How much did the OEM bumper cost you? As for shops no one locally seems to have any experience with the poly bumpers so depending on pricing is what it comes down to. Thanks for your reply!
  14. A little about the car is a 2000 Carrera Cab blk on blk. Im thinking of ordering a GT3 Polyurethane Front Bumper from GT3tek and wanted to know anyones experiences with the bumper itself and its looks? How's the quality? will the bumper look ok without the sides and rear bumper? I was told it hangs down a little lower than stock and will look off? Is it that noticable and will it throw off the lines of that car that much? My current bumper is messed up and was going to get a replacement anyways so I figured I change the look a bit since Im at it. Attached photo of the bumper. Now as for spoilers Im debating on the Duraflex GT3 wing or a Turbo wing? I like the way the Turbo wings look but how does it look on a non turbo car? Out of place? Also is it possible to have it fully functional on the car? http://www.bodykits.net/images/bodykits_net/171205/05.jpg Any insight or thoughts and opinions would be great. Thanks in advance.
  15. Ive never tried Carlsen Ill have to give them a call. Ill give them call as they are closer to me than Carlsen but Ill try both. +1 on this. I called all the Bay Area dealers the other day looking for quotes on Oil Pressure Sender Steven's Creek - off the charts expensive Stead - Never returned my call Fremont - Scott was great. Quoted price lower than Pelican, even before PCA discount. And he had the part number memorized ;) Livermore - never returned my call Sonnen - Price competitive with Fremont Rector - price competitive with Fremont I'll continue to try to use these guys when I can. Bummer that Stead, my closest dealer, couldn't be bothered to return my call. Yea I got a quote from Stevens Creek and was quoted I believe $220 for the Change Over Valve, $40 Electronic Change Over Valve and $1080 for the rear drivers cab window track! This seems to be way to high for these parts??? Agreed Stead never calls me back either and everytime I call I never get anyone live always the stupid answering machine. I guess I got screwed. I needed a hood badge rubber gasket and 2 speed nuts. They charged me 4X for the gasket, and 3 X for the speed nuts. I ended up paying almost $30 for parts that could be had at Sunset for $8. What a bunch of rip-offs! The parts manager told me they were selling at MSRP, yeah, right! It seems that Stevens Creek is getting higher and higher in pricing every year! Ive always got through and talked with them. They are cool people but the price kills it! Stead on the other hand is the ones that never pick up or call back it seems!
  16. This is it. Negative rear camber certainly helps handling, but is murder on the insides of the rear tires. Resetting the camber to 0 will double the rear tire life at the slight expense of handling. The rear feels a bit looser with 0 camber on the track, but for DD use, it is negligible. Zero rear camber can be the difference between getting 15K miles from a rear set of tires and getting 24K miles. This car is driven about few times a week mainly by my girlfriend as I work mainly from home. Its not really going to see track not like the M3 Im currently building so if I can get as much as even tire wear as possible is my goal! If Im able to keep a little camber and have fairly even wear Ill be happy! Ill probably take it in later this week for an alignment and consider your deg and toe at 0. As for tire pressure I figured where I had it was good. I may consider using your psi for the road! :D Thanks for post!
  17. Yea I may have to start flipping them every few thousand miles from here on forward. I didnt really pay attention to the rears and didnt think they had that much negative camber on these cars stock. As for tire psi thats what I thought I knew I had the numbers right they kept stating to me that I was wrong and it was 36 front and rear. Yea Ill probably take it in this weekend. Just need to find a good place to take it to locally. Dont know if I trust some of these tire companies out here! Gas Flap...interesting place to put it. Would help if I would pay more attention to things when filling up gas you think! lol Yea my fronts dont look to bad but I may have them do those next time around when I get the rears flipped. Thanks for the confirmation on the psi. I knew I had them right.
  18. Yea Im not a PCA member and dont think there is a dealer that gives that discount here from what I know of. Ive talked to a few shops here and there but never really got to involved with them as they are pretty short with conversations. I pretty much just need the track as my motor still works but I dont think they sell just the track? If I remember right its the entire assembly. Maybe you can double check for me. Ill try to get the part # tomorrow on the rear window as I dont have it on hand and I cant seem to find any online store to have it listed. I called around for the window assembly and each dealer had different pricing on that as well. I do prefer locally as well if possible but if its massively cheaper Ill go online and make the purchase as most have no taxes and free shipping. Yea Im like you I live in Brentwood and its hit and miss. Some items are cheaper in Walnut Creek and some in Santa Clara. Its its majorly difference in price and costs is higher than Ill make the drive as I have family and friends out there anyways so its not just for the part so it makes sense but for things that are little bit off Ill buy in Walnut Creek as the gas and time, etc will be a factor as well.
  19. I think your old tire pressures were fine and were close to Porsche recs. Your alignment will affect the inner tire wear 100x more than your tire pressure will. Yes, the stock porsche alignment has negative camber. You can dial it out, but understand the consequences in handling. So is what I had close to what Porsche recommends? Or is it 36? Im hearing 36 but I was told 44 so thats why I had it at 43? Can anyone else confirm factory specs for the 18' Wheels? Yea I figured that was the case and why it was having so much inner wear. I understand its for handling and has its consequences so Ill just have to make sure I flip them on occassions to prevent just the inside of the tires to wear only. Yea this car is due for an alignment so Ill have to take this in and have it checked out. Thanks for the tips.
  20. Thanks Ill have to give Rector a call. I was going to Walnut Creek and Santa Clara Porsche but there pricing seems high to me. Thanks for the info and link. Ill take a look at that link. Must be nice to have some pull with Porsche and it also helps as you can research more on how much costs is and it gives you more of an advantage of getting ripped off! Would you be willing to purchase the rear window and I can send you the money if your able to get a better deal through your connections? :thumbup: Yea Im usually always on the prowl for deals or things that I could use when needed new or used. I just cant seem to find the rear window anywhere online and would prefer new rather than used as well. Plus Im just wanting to find a shop or store I can get parts from and build a repor with. So thats why I posted. Yea I get some BMW parts from them on occassions. Ive done searches on the web but its always better to get insight from people on the forums. :D
  21. Im needing a few parts and have a few places Ive been going locally but still appear to be pricey so want to know where everyone else is going for parts? If anyone knows a reasonable price place in Northern Cali Bay Area Im all ears! If not and parts are being ordered where is everyone ordering it from? Im needing a electronic change over and Cut-Off Valve and also a 00 Cab rear drivers side window assembly as my rear window is having issues closing and opening. I replaced the passenger rear and a few months later the drivers rear went out on me. If I remembered right I paid over $600 for the **** rear track assembly and has to be a cheaper place to purchase the drivers rear??? All I really need is the track as the motor is fine but from what I remember theres no way to get these without the motor as one. Thanks in advance. Johnny
  22. Ive been doing 35 Fronts and 43 Rears. Just changed my rear tires due to massive inner wear and they told me Im supposed to be at 36 Fronts and Rears? Tire Sizes: 225/40-18 Fronts 265/35-18 Rears Also is anyone else having massive inner tire wear? Do these cars have negative camber stock? Thanks in advance.
  23. Well I guess its official Ill just stick with OEM or equivalent! Thanks for the feedback! :thumbup:
  24. Thanks for the posts. The only reason why Im wanting to go with the K&N is that its cleanable and reusable. So I figured in the long run it would cheaper in the long run rather than buying replacement filters?
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