Johnny-5

I still haven't gotten around to this and the only reason why Im pushing it off is that alternator removal. Any tips on removal and is it that much of a PITA? Im getting some codes but I don't remember them off hand and Im just wondering if the Air Cut Off Valve is a common failing part or if its mainly the Electric Change-Over Valve that's more common? I believe the Change-Over valve is the easiest without having to remove a lot of things? Any clarifications would be great. Im about to order the parts and thinking if I should just replace both or if I can get away with just replacing the change-over valve?

Any help would be great.

Thanks

If the PCM came out of a MY2003 996 then it is PCM 2.x and will not work in your car.

In MY2003 Porsche changed to a fiber optics system (MOST) and series of controllers throughout the car - which your car will not have.

IMHO in a MY 2001 car you are likely better off with an after market NAV setup as many other here have done. Do a search and see your other options.

Thanks for the info. Ok so this is a PCM1 so I was misinformed. Im guessing this is older than 03 if that's the case. Its not the Fiber Optics setup PCM2 that I know.

Yea Ive been pondering on an aftermarket unit as well but I like the fact that its a factory Porsche setup and is why I really wanted to go this route. Its still up in the airs though.

So you are trying to put a 2003 996 PCM into what model year car?

I was wanting to do the full navigation conversion on my car so picked up a complete kit. Its a PCM1 so it works for my 2000 model. I just don't want to take my dash apart just yet but want to know if it turns on and gets power, etc. Just a simple power test is what Im wanting to do.

The exact model and year of your car is helpful because there are changes year to year in the wiring.

Please provide the exact model and year of your car.

Thanks for the post Loren. Im not able to provide you exact model as I bought this from another member. Its out of a 2003 996 is all I know.

Exact model of the head unit would help - it is on the front of the radio.

There were at least 4 model of radios used in the 996.

Sorry Loren was out of town for the weekend. Anyways it states PCM on the front where the old school tape deck opening is. Im assuming its PCM1 is what people would call it. Hope that helps. Just need to verify that this powers up and don't want to take my deck out to test it.

Thanks,

J5

Hi I have a factory 996 headunit that is not currently in the car and would like to power test it. I know on aftermarket decks its just the matter of hooking up power, etc and it turns on. But with a factory head unit is that possible? The wiring is in the car itself so Im assuming I would have to touch the prongs individually if that's the case and would have to be careful not to hit any other prongs or it can short it. I know the best way would be to remove mine and hook it up but Im not wanting to do that if possible.

Thanks in advance.

I'm having a hard time finding info, but I do remember reading some 996's had to have their fender reworked, and that some (including my own experience) indicates that very early model year 996 cars did not need reworking when you aren't running spacers.

It might be 2000 year models and later, or it might be just 2001 that needs it.

The MFG note for 11x18's with RO 63 and 295 x 30x18 tires is...

"The fender lip andrear spoiler,ifnecessary,must be reworked onvehicles up to andincluding model

year 2001."

With this combo I am basically "at the limit" with GT3 ROW suspension specs, with no rubbing or bottom out issues. My fender did not need to be reworked.

You could run 285x30x18 on the 11x18s, the rim might appear to stick out slightly, but that would probably cover you regarding rubbing issues.

If you aren't lowered I wouldn't worry about it.

To give you a sense of what that looks like (again GT3 ROW/PSS10/very lowered):

Nice car the wheels look great on the car! Thanks for the additional information. I didn't want to chance it so I ended up going with 10" in the rear. Tires will eventually have to be replaced but its wrapped with 295.30.18. Ill throw the wheels on and will see how it goes but this set should be fine.

my '99 had 19x11s on the rear when I purchased it. Not sure of the offset/ET but they looked great and fit like a glove. Will have to go check.

If your able to check that would be great.

On early cars 996 (1999) I've read/heard that there is more room in the back than later models.

On my 1999 car I run 18x11's in the back, and they fit 100% perfect with no rubbing issues, and I'm at GT3 ROW specs (very lowered/very aggressive stance).

For later cars, there are TSBs about reworking the rear fenders if you want to run wider wheels.

On a narrow body car, pretty much every thread I've read about using 19"s includes "rubbing and scraping", especially when lowered, so I wouldn't advise that.

Would the 2000 fall in that category or is it just the 1999 models? Thanks for the heads up on the 19's that's another reason why Im glad I went with the 18's over the 19's.

Sorry to hear about all that is going on with you right now. First off hopefully your wifes dad gets better that's always more important than a car! As for the car do you have full coverage? It sucks you have to pay for the deductible but hopefully its low enough to get your car fixed. I got rear ended years back and the body shop didn't fix the spare tire well which I would have never known about till I got rear ended again (people here in cali cant drive) and when brought to the insurances attention they are avoiding me and busting out 3 year past bs, etc. Im still trying to figure out what I can do to get it fixed. Besides the fact keep your head up and hopefully everything works out! Good luck with everything and prayers to your wifes dad on speedy recovery!

There's a range of figures in the handbook.

I can tell you that on a standard bodied 996 (2003) without spacers at the back a 10" wheel with an offset of 65mm is OK, but with an offset of 47mm the tyre bead stands proud of the wheel arch and throws road muck over the bodywork.

H

The wheels Im thinking of picking up this weekend are after market wheels with a lip so I believe is why the offset is 62 18x10 rear and 47 18x8.5 fronts. I don't believe Ill have issues with that small of a margin??? Currently I have the .turbo twists 18x8.5 + 50 and 18x10 + 65. I just don't want rubbing or clearance issues.

I don't have any information on offsets, but I have an 02 Targa (NB) with 19x11" rims.

They were on the car when I bought it, but I've been contemplating dropping back to 18" for a long time. With 19"s the ride is a little harsh and I'm convinced that the balance would be a little better with 18"s, plus they stick out slightly from the body.

Having said that, the 19"s look awesome on the car (IMHO) especially when it is lowered to European specs (or slightly lower).

Im like you I was debating on 19 but I decided to go with the 18 for more ride comfort and handling. Don't get me wrong the 19" looks awesome but I just don't want to deal with the potholes and bad roads here in Cali.

Does anyone have 997 Turbo Wheels on there cars NB 996's? Just curious on fitment?

Anyways Ive been going back and forth on 18" and 19" Wheels and I believe I may just stick with the factory 18" Wheel Size but Im wondering if we are able to go + or - 3 off factory offset specs? Mainly thinking of going lower.

Factory 18" Spec Offset

18x8.5 with 50 offset

18x10 with 65 offset

I believe these numbers are correct???

My rear window is yellowing pretty bad and noticed that theres one little area that is coming apart and would like to know if its possible to replace it with a glass window using my exisiting top. Top is excellent condition minus the rear window and the zipper area that is somewhat coming apart.

Ill even settle for ordering one online or anywhere else that is reasonably priced and installing it myself or though a shop depending on how hard it is to do. Anything to help with costs would be ideal but dont want to open a can of worms saving a bit here and there and causing more issues!!!

Thanks in advance!

How much did the OEM bumper cost you? As for shops no one locally seems to have any experience with the poly bumpers so depending on pricing is what it comes down to. Thanks for your reply!

You may want to talk with the shop who will be doing the work (if not doing yourself)...

When I had my bumpers updated, they said they would do one of the off brands, but very much recommended factory parts.

They were concerned fitment would not be perfect, and would only guarantee absolute satisfaction if factory parts were used

He showed me some pics they had done of a couple other cars with non-Porsche parts, and though looked ok, it was enough to convince me to get the real stuff.

The line where bumper met the hood were not perfect.. Just tiny variations of that curve where the gap was smaller in the center than on the sides. Slight, but enough for me.

I did the factory GT3 front bumper on my 2001, and it came out perfect... I did leave the basic sides, and it looks fine to me.

I can't help you on the spoilers.

A little about the car is a 2000 Carrera Cab blk on blk.

Im thinking of ordering a GT3 Polyurethane Front Bumper from GT3tek and wanted to know anyones experiences with the bumper itself and its looks? How's the quality? will the bumper look ok without the sides and rear bumper? I was told it hangs down a little lower than stock and will look off? Is it that noticable and will it throw off the lines of that car that much? My current bumper is messed up and was going to get a replacement anyways so I figured I change the look a bit since Im at it. Attached photo of the bumper.

Now as for spoilers Im debating on the Duraflex GT3 wing or a Turbo wing? I like the way the Turbo wings look but how does it look on a non turbo car? Out of place? Also is it possible to have it fully functional on the car?

http://www.bodykits.net/images/bodykits_net/171205/05.jpg

Any insight or thoughts and opinions would be great.

Thanks in advance.

Sunset is easy to work with, although Jeff has switched over to the Audi side of the business. Carlsen Porsche in Redwood City is also a good place.

It's also good to see the post from Duram. Best regards to you, Duram, if you see this reply. And, ... cheers.

Ive never tried Carlsen Ill have to give them a call.

Fremont Porsche seems to have the best pricing in Bay Area. Scott is a big help.

Ill give them call as they are closer to me than Carlsen but Ill try both.

Fremont Porsche seems to have the best pricing in Bay Area. Scott is a big help.

+1 on this. I called all the Bay Area dealers the other day looking for quotes on Oil Pressure Sender

Steven's Creek - off the charts expensive

Stead - Never returned my call

Fremont - Scott was great. Quoted price lower than Pelican, even before PCA discount. And he had the part number memorized ;)

Livermore - never returned my call

Sonnen - Price competitive with Fremont

Rector - price competitive with Fremont

I'll continue to try to use these guys when I can. Bummer that Stead, my closest dealer, couldn't be bothered to return my call.

Yea I got a quote from Stevens Creek and was quoted I believe $220 for the Change Over Valve, $40 Electronic Change Over Valve and $1080 for the rear drivers cab window track! This seems to be way to high for these parts???

Agreed Stead never calls me back either and everytime I call I never get anyone live always the stupid answering machine.

Johnny, I bought a small part from Steven's Creek in San Jose. Pricing was very much in line with what online retailers were charging. It also felt good to do business locally. I haven't had the need for a ton of parts, but I look forward to working with them more often. I'm closest to Walnut Creek/Stead, but with my job, I travel all over the Bay area so I can shop around a bit next time I am in need.

Good luck!

I guess I got screwed. I needed a hood badge rubber gasket and 2 speed nuts. They charged me 4X for the gasket, and 3 X for the speed nuts. I ended up paying almost $30 for parts that could be had at Sunset for $8. What a bunch of rip-offs! The parts manager told me they were selling at MSRP, yeah, right!

It seems that Stevens Creek is getting higher and higher in pricing every year!

Wow there is actually someone at the parts in Steven's Creek? I never get a call back or email reply.....

Ive always got through and talked with them. They are cool people but the price kills it! Stead on the other hand is the ones that never pick up or call back it seems!

Try to get as much negative canber out of the rear and get the toe to as close to zero as possible. It's hard to do both, but if you have to choose, get the toe to zero.

This is it. Negative rear camber certainly helps handling, but is murder on the insides of the rear tires. Resetting the camber to 0 will double the rear tire life at the slight expense of handling. The rear feels a bit looser with 0 camber on the track, but for DD use, it is negligible. Zero rear camber can be the difference between getting 15K miles from a rear set of tires and getting 24K miles.

This car is driven about few times a week mainly by my girlfriend as I work mainly from home. Its not really going to see track not like the M3 Im currently building so if I can get as much as even tire wear as possible is my goal!

I've got about -1.2 deg rear camber and I notice fairly even wear, that's interesting people would report more inside wear...

For pressure I run 31/36psi track, 35/42psi road. Achieved 30mpg with the road setup.

If Im able to keep a little camber and have fairly even wear Ill be happy! Ill probably take it in later this week for an alignment and consider your deg and toe at 0. As for tire pressure I figured where I had it was good. I may consider using your psi for the road! :D

Neg camber can cause inner tire wear, but usually its toe that causes the wear. Getting toe as cose to zero as possible will reduce inside wear.

Thanks for post!

36f/44r psi is porsche stock rec.

i flip my tires regularly due to the negative camber.

when in doubt, alignment is always a good idea.

Yea I may have to start flipping them every few thousand miles from here on forward. I didnt really pay attention to the rears and didnt think they had that much negative camber on these cars stock. As for tire psi thats what I thought I knew I had the numbers right they kept stating to me that I was wrong and it was 36 front and rear. Yea Ill probably take it in this weekend. Just need to find a good place to take it to locally. Dont know if I trust some of these tire companies out here!

Look under your gas flap.

17" = 36 F & R

18" = 36 F & 44 R

2003 C2 Cab 18" rears, at ~12k miles = inner ~1/3 worn to 1st layer of cord outer 2/3 just about to the wear bars with factory alignment. Fronts ~25k inner at wear bars, outter just about to wear bars

This for the last two sets of tires. Michelins and Kumhos.

Gas Flap...interesting place to put it. Would help if I would pay more attention to things when filling up gas you think! lol Yea my fronts dont look to bad but I may have them do those next time around when I get the rears flipped. Thanks for the confirmation on the psi. I knew I had them right.

To go along with what Dharn55 was saying about getting to know your local Porsche dealer (great advice). I live in Dallas and we have 3 Porsche dealers and I was told by a mechanic and fellow PCA member which one is the best to buy from. Boardwalk Porsche near where I live gives a 10% discount to PCA members and they have the best pricing in my area.

Yea Im not a PCA member and dont think there is a dealer that gives that discount here from what I know of. Ive talked to a few shops here and there but never really got to involved with them as they are pretty short with conversations.

Are you looking for the window itself or for the track/motor assembly? What are the part numbers?

I pretty much just need the track as my motor still works but I dont think they sell just the track? If I remember right its the entire assembly. Maybe you can double check for me. Ill try to get the part # tomorrow on the rear window as I dont have it on hand and I cant seem to find any online store to have it listed.

Most new car dealers use what is called "Matrix pricing" it is just a formula that makes inexpensive items more expensive. It usually looks something like this.

0.01 to 0.99 List Price times 3.5

1.00 to 4.99 List Price time 2

5.00 to 24.99 list price times 1.5

25.00 to 100.00 list price time 1.25

over 100 list price no markup

Each dealer has there own matrix pricing table, but most of them use it. This is why you will see that some dealers will have a part for .80 and others have the same part for 2.40. The best deals are the places like Sunset, where they have a straight cost plus 15% markup for parts. Most dealers give discounts to shops, and only the largest shops get this level of pricing. Most shops get list minus 20% larger shops often get cost plus 20%. So when you are getting cost plus 15% it is a very good deal.

For you to get this price, the part has to be order on their stock order. The dealers place two types of orders each day, Daily, and Overnight also known as VOR (Vehicle Of Road). When a dealer places an order on the stock order if it is in stock at the PDC (Parts Distribution Center) it arrives 3-5 days later. By using the stock order this benefits the dealer with an Obsolescence credit usually 2.5%. So if the dealer orders for you a part on a stock order with a cost of $100 they would accumulate an additional 2.50 to their obsolescence credit. Once each quarter, the dealer uses this obsolescence credit to return old stock to the manufacturer. They submit a list of there oldest parts that they would like to remove from stock. The manufacturer sends back a list of the parts they would like sent back and the rest are destroyed.

Likewise if they order a part on the overnight, they get no obsolescence credit and they have to pay freight for the part. This is why if you need a part in a hurry, and the dealer has to order it overnight you really pay for it.

For your big ticket items like the 600 window assembly, all dealers should have the same list price as the pricing matrixes usually cut off around $200. But you will still get the best deal by going to one of the cost plus dealers and letting them order it on their stock order. Personally I prefer to buy everything at my local Porsche dealer, as I have a good relationship with them. They give me a 20% discount so I end up paying more then with Sunset, but to me it is worth it. A lot of times the dealers will give you a discount and not charge you the matrix if you just ask them for it. Or ask them for the shop pricing.

I called around for the window assembly and each dealer had different pricing on that as well. I do prefer locally as well if possible but if its massively cheaper Ill go online and make the purchase as most have no taxes and free shipping.

Johnny, I bought a small part from Steven's Creek in San Jose. Pricing was very much in line with what online retailers were charging. It also felt good to do business locally. I haven't had the need for a ton of parts, but I look forward to working with them more often. I'm closest to Walnut Creek/Stead, but with my job, I travel all over the Bay area so I can shop around a bit next time I am in need.

Good luck!

Yea Im like you I live in Brentwood and its hit and miss. Some items are cheaper in Walnut Creek and some in Santa Clara. Its its majorly difference in price and costs is higher than Ill make the drive as I have family and friends out there anyways so its not just for the part so it makes sense but for things that are little bit off Ill buy in Walnut Creek as the gas and time, etc will be a factor as well.

Ive been doing 35 Fronts and 43 Rears. Just changed my rear tires due to massive inner wear and they told me Im supposed to be at 36 Fronts and Rears?

Tire Sizes:

225/40-18 Fronts

265/35-18 Rears

Also is anyone else having massive inner tire wear? Do these cars have negative camber stock?

Thanks in advance.

I think your old tire pressures were fine and were close to Porsche recs.

Your alignment will affect the inner tire wear 100x more than your tire pressure will.

Yes, the stock porsche alignment has negative camber. You can dial it out, but understand the consequences in handling.

So is what I had close to what Porsche recommends? Or is it 36? Im hearing 36 but I was told 44 so thats why I had it at 43? Can anyone else confirm factory specs for the 18' Wheels? Yea I figured that was the case and why it was having so much inner wear. I understand its for handling and has its consequences so Ill just have to make sure I flip them on occassions to prevent just the inside of the tires to wear only.

Try to get as much negative canber out of the rear and get the toe to as close to zero as possible. It's hard to do both, but if you have to choose, get the toe to zero.

Yea this car is due for an alignment so Ill have to take this in and have it checked out. Thanks for the tips.

I normally use sunset they are usually the cheapest depending on the size of the part because you pay the shipping. I did stop in at Rector Porsche near SFO airport once and they seemed to have reasonable prices. I was only looking for a small plastic piece at Rector they were out of stock but said the part was only 80 cents. I went to the Porsche dealership in Dallas and that same piece of plastic was $2.40. I have also looked at DC automotive and they seem to have decent prices as well they have new and used parts there I believe. I hope that helps. I am interested to see what everyone else has to say.

Thanks Ill have to give Rector a call. I was going to Walnut Creek and Santa Clara Porsche but there pricing seems high to me.

For Porsche OEM/approved parts, Sunset Porsche in Beaverton OR, Suncoast Porsche in Florida, Sonnen Porsche in CA (porscheoemparts.com which has on line look up and pricing which is very helpful). Also getting to know the parts dept. guys at you local dealership can be very helpful, they sometimes have a lot of flexibility on pricing. Having the PET program with current pricing or looking up the pricing on porscheoemparts helps. Dealers set their own pricing. The other days I was buying a small hose connector that "lists" for about $5.50, the local dealer quoted $10.50, when I pointed this out they said OK and sold it at list. Again knowing the parts guys helps (it also helps that my daughters boyfriend is an apprentice tech at that dealer so they know me tht way. He can also buy parts at cost +10%).Also get to know some of the aftermarket parts sources, there are so many. You can often get parts from the OEM source that just don't have the Porsche label on them at greatly reduced prices. This week I had to replace my alternator, new lists for about $1,700, one dealer quoted a lit of $1,500 for a rebuilt that they would sell for $1,058, I bought a factory rebuilt Bosch for about $350.The parts breakers can be good sources, DC Auto, Oklahoma Foreign have been good sources for me. Ther are some othes that have less than glorious reputations.Amazon is not a bad source. And believe it or not eBay can be a good source, but watch out and you have to know what you are buying. You actually see parts sold for more than the dealer price and ther is a lot of crap. I watch it regularly and often buy parts on the anticipation that I might need them or someone else might need them. Some samples. I bought a new, in the box, Porsche labled, dual mass flywheel for $60 once, unbelievable. I sat I. It for three years u til I needed it with a clutch change. I bought my PSS10 set for $1,800 on eBay.

Thanks for the info and link. Ill take a look at that link. Must be nice to have some pull with Porsche and it also helps as you can research more on how much costs is and it gives you more of an advantage of getting ripped off! Would you be willing to purchase the rear window and I can send you the money if your able to get a better deal through your connections? :thumbup:

Yea Im usually always on the prowl for deals or things that I could use when needed new or used. I just cant seem to find the rear window anywhere online and would prefer new rather than used as well. Plus Im just wanting to find a shop or store I can get parts from and build a repor with. So thats why I posted.

One way to shop for prices is to type the OEM part # on google. A list of companies that sell that part will come up and you research them. One source that hasn't been mentioned is AutohausAZ.com.

Yea I get some BMW parts from them on occassions. Ive done searches on the web but its always better to get insight from people on the forums. :D

I let my pressure get low and my backs wore out on the inside. I run 36 back, 32 front same size rims as you

Thanks for the reply. This hole time I had my rears setup to high.

Im needing a few parts and have a few places Ive been going locally but still appear to be pricey so want to know where everyone else is going for parts? If anyone knows a reasonable price place in Northern Cali Bay Area Im all ears! If not and parts are being ordered where is everyone ordering it from?

Im needing a electronic change over and Cut-Off Valve and also a 00 Cab rear drivers side window assembly as my rear window is having issues closing and opening. I replaced the passenger rear and a few months later the drivers rear went out on me. If I remembered right I paid over $600 for the **** rear track assembly and has to be a cheaper place to purchase the drivers rear??? All I really need is the track as the motor is fine but from what I remember theres no way to get these without the motor as one.

Thanks in advance.

Johnny

Ive been doing 35 Fronts and 43 Rears. Just changed my rear tires due to massive inner wear and they told me Im supposed to be at 36 Fronts and Rears?

Tire Sizes:

225/40-18 Fronts

265/35-18 Rears

Also is anyone else having massive inner tire wear? Do these cars have negative camber stock?

Thanks in advance.

A lot of that has to do with were you buy them; OEM filters are expensive, quality aftermarket units (e.g.: Wix/NAPA Gold) are about $16 and probably better made than the OEM units............

Stick with OEM.

+1

Well I guess its official Ill just stick with OEM or equivalent! Thanks for the feedback! :thumbup:

Our OEM Porsche filters are excellent. If you use the K&N be very careful about over oiling. That's how you can fark up an expensive MAF. Proceed with caution.

There is nothing wrong with the stock style filter, and they never oil the MAF. The K&N fiter really adds nothing other than expense.....................

Thanks for the posts. The only reason why Im wanting to go with the K&N is that its cleanable and reusable. So I figured in the long run it would cheaper in the long run rather than buying replacement filters?