Johnny-5

I had similar symptoms on my 02 and it turned out to be my reservoir. My mechanic guessed at the problem just based on my description and he wasn't surprised at all. I forget the version number on the replacement, but Porsche had definitely changed the design a few times. In my case I had a slow drip from my driver's side exhaust pipe but most was evaporating on the exhaust. The leak was on the bottom of the reservoir but I'm not sure how easy it was to find.

It is probably worth checking if you can get a mirror to see under the reservoir, but I haven't tried it so I'm not sure. There are probably articles here on replacing the reservoir but unfortunately it isn't easy to get out. If I remember right it involves letting the engine drop slightly to make room to extract it.

I took another look in the engine area and Im seeing alot of what looks like dried coolant underneth the reservoir area. Also as indicated Im seeing alot around the exhaust area right below the reservoir. Ive done some research and it appears that this is a comman issue even with low mileage cars. How many miles did you have on your car? Im just tempted to replace it.

What other common areas are common for leaking? Also Im reading that its recommended to replace with OEM rather than aftermarket? Any suggestions on that? Where's a good place to pick up a new one?

Whether to replace or to resurface rotors is not based on whether or not they have been resurfaced before ("Others are stating resurfacing is no issue at least once before replacing them..."

As long as the rotors are of good quality, the only criteria should be whether they are worn down past their stated minimum thickness and whether they are out of round so much that they have to be resurfaced to a degree that will have them end up thinner than the minimum thickness.

If there is a thick lip around the outer edge of the rotor, that is an indication that you should measure the thickness of the rotors to make sure they are still within spec.

I don't have the minimum thickness specs in front of me, but many rotors even have the minimum thickness specs stamped on the outer edge of the rotor itself or on the rotor "hat".

Board sponsor Sunset Porsche (see the link under "Special Offers" at the top of every page) and also Suncoast Porsche in Florida usually have much better prices than the local dealer. They also have very good service.

Regards, Maurice.

These rotors are factory Porsche so Im assuming they would fall in the good rotor category...right? After work today when I get home Ill double check to see if there is a thick lip on the rotor. If anyone is able to post what the minimum thickness spec is that would be great.

Ill look up those shops you've mentioned. Im located in California so servicing will be out of the question but if there cheaper than CA pricing including shipping Im all for it. Thanks again!

Im hearing alot of mixed info on rotors replacing or resurfacing them? Would like to hear it from you all! My fronts went out on me so I ended up replacing them and still have them as some places stated I could always get it resurfaced and keep them around for the next brake job I need to do. Rears are pretty low so would like to know which route I should go?

Some are stating due to the harsh pads usually when a brake job is needed the rotors are pretty worn out and should be replaced rather than resurfacing. Others are stating resurfacing is no issue at least once before replacing them.

If replacing is the choice than should I go aftermarket rotors or should I stick with Porsche? If aftermarket is good any recommendations? If its OEM where is the best place to purchase a set? Just need the rears done. Also what type of pads?

On another note anyone here in California Eastbay know of any good places to pick up OEM parts or even any online places? Ive been buying parts at the Porsche dealership and its been killing me!

Thanks in advance!

There are lot of folks on this site that live around that area.. Be patient and I'm sure someone will give you a lead on a good shop to take it to..

But like I said be very cautious driving the car. A sudden overheating becuase of a failed pump (or loss of coolant) can crack a head and or cause cylnder damage..which equals an engine rebuild...You don't want to go there.... :blush:

Yea I really dont want to go there! Just looking at the motor seems like its a nightmare to do anything to it.

What type of symthoms would one encounter if the pump was going bad? Cars temp has always been stable and no spikes what so ever.

As for locations if anyone on here is able to refer me to a good place I would greatly appreciate it!

Any shop with a pressure tester and the correct adaptors can check out your system in about 15 min.; that said, expect the dealer to charge you at least an hour labor. Find a good independant and have them check the system out, it will save you money......

yea if I can keep it from going to the dealer that would be best. Just got to find a local shop where I live that knows Porsches now.

With that said anyone here in Northern California Eastbay area who is reasonable and know's Porsches?

I wouldn't drive the car anyomore until you have diagnosed the source of the leak. If your water pump fails while driving it can have devastating effects on your engine. Ask me how I know... :cursing:

If you have a good independent have it towed there. If you go to the dealer be prepared to open your wallet twice as wide...

How do you know when a pump or thermostat is going bad on this car? And how hard is it to replace it? Is this something a DIY'er can do or is it pretty complicated? Car has low miles on it as well I believe its at around high 60k to low 70k so would the pump and things start to fail at such low miles?

Throwing parts at a vehicle is the wrong way to go about repairing it. Have the system pressure tested to determine the source of the leak.

Yea you may have a point. Should this be done at a Porsche Dealership or any other shop that is able to pressure test the system should be ok?

WVicary is correct, you need to pressure test the system first as it is not uncommon to have more than one leak point. Throwing parts at the car is the wrong way to go................

Thanks for the additional push towards getting that done!

Could be all of the above. You'll need to get under the vehicle and have a look around.

I tried looking under the tail section and cant seem to really see to far up there. How hard is it to remove the reservoir and any good places online for a reasonable price? If its cheap enough Ill just buy a new cap and reservior.

This has been a on-going issue where every once in while Ill check the coolant and its low so Ill refill it with distilled water. It was topped off to the full mark and yesterday I took the car out and drove it to work and back home and had it parked in the drive way and later moved it into the garage and noticed that on the drive way there was a good amount of coolant there. I moved it back into the garage and checked the coolant and its still full but the car was also warm. I looked underneth the car and see alot of buildup from Im assuming coolant on the exhaust. Not sure if its been on going or if its just because of the amount that leaked???

What do you all think this could be? Bad coolant cap? Reservoir? Pump?

Any help would be greatly. Thanks in advance.

I like the 98' 911 GT1 style of the headlamps myself... ;) All just a matter of preference I suppose.

LOL.....thanks for cheering me up! :thumbup: I think all porsches look good period! Just not the na bumpers lol

None of the factory turbo bumpers use the MK1 986/996 normally aspirated GT style headlights. You have to go aftermarket if you want the turbo look.

Cool thats all I needed to know! Sucks to be a 2000 model! :(

This is a huge can of worms.

There are a couple people that have done pre 2002 model year face lifts (making a 1998-2001 cars front end look like a 2002+ NA or turbo car's front end), but it does involve a signifigant amount of more work and money than just swapping out the front bumper, the headlights being different are just one of the challenges (and no you would not "trim" the bumper where the headlights go, you would need to actually buy the new headlights, fender, paint, wiring, supports, etc. etc, etc. etc. ).

Best options to keep your life simple, unless you are up for a huge challenge:

• Buy a bumper that fits your model year car (same style headlights are the clue).
  
• Buy an aftermarket kit that was intended for your model year car, and provides the look you are after.
  

I forgot about the lights and forgot about the change in front on the newer 996's. My mistake!!! After looking at everything its going to be more of a headache and probably more costly than buying an aftermarket so Im just going to end up going that route. I got to many projects going on and Im definitely not up to taking this one on!

Thanks for your input!

Sorry, I missed your model year the first time.

The Turbo is a Mk 2 style bumper and will only directly fit on MY2002 and newer 996s. If you want the factory look then you would also need to change out the front fenders and headlights (including some re-wiring).

Another common option is to use the MAShaw after-market turbo-look bumper - it bolts up to the older chassis/fenders with no other work.

Yea I didnt notice that till I started too look at more of the Turbo cars yesterday. Just out of curiousity is there any turbo bumpers out there that will mount up without replacing headlights, fenders, etc? Or are the conversions that are done from the links pretty much the newer 996's?

Thanks for your input!

2000 996 NA:

2002 996 TT:

Thanks for the pictures I noticed that online when I was doing searches......Hope Don can shed some light on this as I understand the re-enforcement and additional brackets but what did he do about the lights? I dont believe he changed those out unless he trimed the turbo bumper to work????

I just realized that the 2000 Porsche Carrera headlights and 2002 Porsche Turbo headlights are different? Can someone confirm that? I have a guy Im supposed to meet up with tomorrow to purchase his 02 Turbo bumper.

For best results you will need turbo air ducts and the metal bumper re-enforcement will need to be cut. The rest is just proper adjustment.

Yea from reading those threads it sounds like its mainly the re-enforcement bar needing to get trimmed and some additional brackets. Do the air ducts line up correctly? Also just out of curiosity will a turbo re-enforcement bar mount up to a non turbo front end? Just wondering if that is another option.

Thanks Loren.....I did a search but must have entered in the wrong tags. Sorry.

From what Im reading it appears it should fit with modification to the front re-enforcement beam. other than that everything should mount up from what Im reading. Oh and the brackets that are needed to mount the bottom? Am I reading that right?

Anyone on here in California who has done this I can talk to????

Ive never liked the current bumper on this 2000 C4 I have and found a guy who is selling a Turbo Front bumper. He's willing to off it for a $400 is that a good deal?

Also would it be a straight bolt on or will there be some modifications that will be needing to mount this onto my car? Its just the bumper so will I need to underpanel? ducts? etc.....

Thanks in advance.

J5

Thanks everyone for the pictures and suggestions. Sorry for the lag time!

Does the top wing go up and down or is it stationary?

Also how hard would it be to install a fully functioning Turbo spoiler on the car?

Im currently in the market for a wing and would really like to put something like a porsche turbo wing on the car. Is there any kits out there like the stock porsche turbo wings? Whats a good recommendation in wings and some links or pictures to help me make up my mind.

Thanks,

J5

I really like the look of the 997 GT wheels and currently have the 996 Turbo Twists and wanting a change on the car. I found a few places like ebay and other shops that sell a Set of 4 New 18 x 10 and 18 x 8 Gunmetal Porsche 911 GT Style Replica Wheels with Machined Face. My question is.....is it worth it? I believe my stock wheels are 18x9 and 18x11.

Any insight would be great.

Thanks,

J5

Go on eBay and do a search for Porsche 996 speaker, there are about 6 sets for sale right now.

Ive gone on ebay and talked to a few and they are stating that the back and fronts are different and it appears that all of the ones on ebay are fronts only. Can anyone confirm that they are different? Because Im hearing they are different and Im also hearing that they are the same front and rear.

Any clarifications would be great.

Did you check the Links menu?

Oklahoma Foreign sells used Porsche parts... and has an excellent reputation.

Thanks Loren Ill have to look them up and see what they have in stock.

bump...........still in need of one.

I hate these pumps! I had a VW and went through 3 pumps ($650 each). On most set-ups...there is a crankcase valve that diverts flow to the crankcase from the sec-air pump. My valve froze (would not completely close) and allowed moisture to accumulate in the sec-air pump... When this water added up over time the pump started to whine as you mentioned. The pump finally stop working when it was full of water. I pulled the pump and shook all the water out and it worked another 6 months. It was after 2 pumps we discovered the valve was the reason for the premature pump failure. It was a very frustrating problem. The dealer would get the sec-air system malfunction codes and think it was a failing pump. YES, the pump was failing to pump out the water and it whined like crazy... You might pull the pump and shake it out to see if you find water...

Did you get any type of check engine while it was whining? Where exactly is this pump that pumps out water? Gee's theres more to these motors than I thought! :cursing:

HVAC = Heater/Ventilation/Air Conditioner

The fan is in the dash right in front of the right seat.

Fuel pump is in the gas tank under the battery.

The radiator fans don't run all the time unless the AC is on. Then they run fast.

When AC is off they only turn on (low speed) when needed.

Thanks Loren for the clarifications on things. Im pretty sure its not coming from the inside of the car as its really distinctive outside the car on the passenger front side but once again cant confirm that. The weather here in Cali has been pretty decently warm so the AC is usually on. Do you think the radiator fan could be going bad or maybe just needs cleaning? But if it was going bad wouldnt it be happening everytime it kicks on? In my case it happens in spurts. There will be times Ill step outside to the passenger side and can hear the fan running but no whinning noise?