the head

Ravenol T-WS is what I'm running without issues on my 2013.

Great question, Don.  Maybe they expect the customer base to just upgrade to the newest model...

Gotta change the front diff oil now - mainly just for grins, but due to the fact it's likely original as well.

Cool.  I was able to cross this over to Ravenol MDL.  The Porsche part number floating around was 000 043 300 37.

It took about the 1.3L to fill it.  The chattering at low speeds it was experiencing is all but completely gone.  This is very similar to the transfer case oil changeout I did a little while ago.  I'm at a bit over 55k miles.  The old fluid was like black water coming out of there.  So this will also be something I probably change out every 30k miles moving forward.

I'm having a hard time trig to figure out what rear differential fluid my 2013 CTT takes.  It has the PTV electronic rear end on it and from what I understand it has carbon fiber discs in it and requires a specific fluid.  Anyone have any sources that provide a brand/part number?  

Changed the fluid again today after 2 weeks and glad I did.  I'll post pics later on.  Only a slightly burned smell but the oil was dark brown.  So if you change the fluid I recommend a follow-up flush a week or two later.  Still running perfect!

On 3/21/2017 at 9:34 AM, steph280 said:

So you are doing the second fluid change as a precaution to clear out any remaining oil?

 

My indy shop is slammed so I can't get anything done until Thursday.  Is it safe to drive the car for now, or is it going to cause more wear?

Yes, just making sure I get as much of the old fluid that was stuck in the clutch pack and pump out of it.

Curious as well.  Mine was most grabby in slow, sharp turns like parking lots.  And 3rd and 4th gear were the worst going straight as well.  Still no issues after my oil change = I'm driving it daily until the next change this weekend just to be sure.

I will be changing with the same oil - Motul DCTF.  I'm not sure if Pelican sells it or not. 

OK so a quick update - still no issues driving under various conditions so for now I'm in the clear.  Smooth as it should be driving with small throttle all the way to wide open.

About a week ago, I changed the oil in the transfer case.  I went with Motul DCTF as it is a replacement oil for the Shell equivalent that Porsche recommends.  BTW, that doesn't mean it's "Porsche approved" but it does cross over from a parts perspective.  Anyway, all of the symptoms have gone away.  It now shifts and drives smoothly.  I'll change it again soon just to ensure that the old oil has been removed as it had a very burnt smell to it - very similar to when an automatic transmission has burned up clutches.  So this might be a fix if caught quickly before the clutches take a lot of damage (and there's nothing saying they aren't in my case).  There was also no sign of water in the oil.

I reused the plugs and don't have any leaks

I just replaced the fluid in mine with Motul DCTF fluid.  Yes, I realize the transfer case isn't the PDK... The fluid is a replacement for Shell TF0870.

The fluid was definitely burned.  If you've ever smelled burned transmission fluid that's what it smelled like.  I took some pics as shown.  Looking at the oil I didn't see any metal flakes in it, indicating any kind of obvious metal wear.  There was also no indication of water in the oil.  It took a little over 0.8 liters to fill it back up.  Took it for a drive and so far, so good.  I didn't go very far but did drive long enough for the jerkiness to manifest itself as usual.  I'll post an update later this week.  Hoping for the best!

Took it to an independent shop and they diagnosed it as the transfer case.  Nothing wrong with the engine at all, so I feel a little less dumb.  Here in Houston there are 3 Porsche dealers and one quoted $5500, another $4300, and the third I'll never do business with again for service (Momentum).  So looks like $4300 it is for the turnkey expense of getting the transfer case replaced.  Gotta pay taxes first and then get that done.  I'm hoping they let me keep the old one so I can take it apart and see if the clutches are just burned up in it or something simple like that.  

I'm not 100% sure as I've read that as well. I pulled the fuses to the PTV to keep it from engaging the clutches. Others did this and the low speed grab on sharp turns went away. Mostly these people then had a software update per a TSB.  In my case removing the fuses didn't help, so it seems to not be the issue looking at it that way.  That said, I do have the grab at low speeds but I don't find it that irritating.  I can feel the miss at higher rpm but it isn't as prevalent as lower rpm and light throttle input. Getting close to just taking it to the dealer rather than throwing parts at it

Replaced the diverter valves - stock ones seemed fine, and as a result no change.  The Durametric doesn't live data the 958 so i'm stuck with a 1-sample per second gauge and it isn't fast enough to catch anything. What is the stock boost level for this engine?

Thinking I'll have to take it to the dealer soon rather than just throw parts at it.  No codes as of yet.

Read on another forum that a panamera turbo was having similar issues.  The guy changed the diverter valves and fixed the issue so I ordered a set - I'd be replacing those at some point anyway.  Did get the MAP sensor on the CTS to display and it appears to be reading normally - no jumping and is tracking the boost pressure exactly.

Am I imagining things or are there no mass air sensors like there are in the 955s?

Trying to track down an issue I'm having on my 2013 TT.  It has a stumble when accelerating in the 1800-2500 rpm range in basically any gear.  If I punch it, it will sometimes act like a misfire.

I've changed plugs and coils and looked for vacuum leaks in the front and rear of the engine but didn't find anything.

I hooked up an Edge CTS to it and watched various parameters over the past few days but don't see anything obvious.  Spark timing looks good and consistent, fuel pressure looks OK, Long term and short term fuel trims look OK (see below), and O2 sensors don't appear to be malfunctioning.  Boost may be an issue as the CTS doesn't always read equal to the dash gauge (might be lag in time it samples the data).  I checked hoses and don't see anything obvious and made sure clamps were tight.

I haven't checked under the intake manifold for anything yet.

So for data I never see the short or long terms get above +/-10%.  Short terms go up when accelerating but then come back down to close to zero at cruising speeds or driving at a steady pace in the neighborhood.  I've also sat at idle and revved to about 2500rpm with no load to watch them and once I hit a steady state they are almost always at or near 0%.

So back to the boost readings, I will see about 0.1-0.3 on the dash gauge and watching the CTS readout it will only go to 3 or 4 psi.  Sometimes when showing 0.1 or 0.2 psi on the dash, it shows 0 or 1psi on the CTS.  So just to be sure I think I'll check the wastegate diaphragms for leaks and then the diverter valves next.  On full throttle I see about 8 or 9 psi, peak at 10 once or twice so I'm not sure how much it's supposed to be making.  But I can't keep it punched for long due to where I live.

Any suggestions?

Glad it helped!

Ah, well that makes sense.

Looking for the factory hitch and the wiring needed for a 2013 turbo.  I realize that still means a trip to the dealer to get the functions integrated, but want to see if I can get a complete parts list and then install the hard parts myself.

Anyone know if there is a locking gas cap for the 958 series?  I recently got a 2013 and the flap doesn't lock, unlike the 2004 I used to have.

Same here with ricker - it wasn't a big deal to realign the frame into the door skin.  Leave everything dirty and it's easier to see where things were adjusted.

Most likely the hoses by the electric pump are cracked.  Not enough to give you the brake warning light/message yet.  Take off the engine bay covers on the right side and start it up and listen for leaks.  You may also be able to find it once the engine is cut off and hear the air rushing in where the crack is located.  I bought silicone vacuum hose and just replaced the hard plastic lines.  They broke in 3 different spots before I finally had enough.  The symptom you describe is what happened in each instance, at least in my cases.

Replaced mine with the Turbo S pieces. Here are some pics. I'll add a warning for anyone else who wants to tackle this. You must remove the nuts on the control arm prior to moving the bolts. What I mean by that is the bolts that hold it to the frame (the bushing side) have a groove cut into them to position the eccentrics on the "nut" side. And the eccentric washer is one piece with the bolt on the head side. So if you were to loosen it on the bolt side, because it's easier to get to, it will damage the adjuster. I almost did just that based on the experience with other cars where the bolt was just a bolt, or the eccentric was the bolt itself in the middle.

All in all I think it took me two hours to do both sides working at a leisurely pace. I used a "pickle fork" to separate the ball joint but be warned that it may push up against the brake dust shield by doing so. No damage to mine but something to be aware of if you don't use a jaw-puller. This was on the easier side of things I've done on this particular car. After putting the adjusters back where the stock arms were set, I had it aligned and the toe was the most significant change.

In the pics, the piece that is being held up by the screwdriver was visible while still on the car so I knew that side (passenger) was bad. The other side is the one with the tear in it so bother were due for replacement. I have about 94,100 miles on mine. Next up is to deal with another squeaking/chirping blower motor gone bad after two years...