the head

I went the cheap route and bought a 3/8" brass tee fitting. It fits the turbo vent hoses at the rear of the engine perfectly, and then I just used a piece of 3/8" rubber hose to slip over the stock hard line and the last tee fitting end. The stock plastic tee broke apart, leaving a piece in one turbo vent hose and the stock hard line that goes under the valve cover. It was real fun getting those out near the firewall. It looks like the hardline was not routed correctly, probably when the coolant lines under the intake were fixed at the dealer. So I re-routed the line correctly (funny how those hard lines go perfectly into place when you do that). So I'm thinking this line has been off for a while. Yet another reason why I'll never take my Cayenne to Momentum Porsche in Houston ever again.

Had a second split line at the y-connector below the vacuum pump. It was hard to see but once I started removing things to look I finally saw it. So two split lines at once. No warning messages this morning on the way in to work - yay! But in the process of locating the second split line I also found a broken tee fitting for the turbo vent lines at the rear of the intake.

The parts list I have names it Turbo Vent Line.

I noticed the tee fitting was broken looking for something else. It is item #25 in the parts manual pic, and the pic of it has a rectangle on it from the service manual. The parts list that I have does not give a part number. Thanks in advance.

Well I also did the repair with rubber hose and it seals just fine. However, I'm still getting the fault code along with a P1914 for a brake pressure sensor. I can hear the vacuum pump running when I step on the brake pedal. I have to drive about 10 seconds before it turns off. I'll try removing the pump and blowing it out, but I was just curious if anyone else had this much of an issue after the hose was fixed.

Just had lower hose split on me. I thought something was up about a week earlier when I would first start the engine, the brake pedal was stiff so all of the vacuum was gone. Taped for now and Durametric removed the code.

Reviving this thread since it's happening to me as well. Only on cruise, but it also only happens on the DME that I have an aftermarket tune on. Error codes on Durametric are P1508 for the DME and PSM error codes are 1314 (DME Control) and 668 (Vehicle Terminal Voltage 30).

It only triggers going uphill when the transmission doesn't kick down - which makes for some drama on a bridge or the like. Last time I was able to throw it into neutral, cycle the key, and get it to restart while rolling to keep from getting run into. After reading the thread, I'm curious if anyone else was running another tune other than stock.

Yep, transmission is an Aisin unit. TR-60SN, designation 09D for all wheel drive. You can see the exploded view here:

http://www.automaticchoice.com/Catalogue/aw_tr60sn.pdf

Just bought a valentine 1 as a christmas present, but now i'm hearing that there may be issues because of the insulated glass in the windshield and rear window.

Anyone else heard of this issue?

It was originally bought for a Cayenne turbo, but the person who is getting it also has an S4, so i know it can be used there.

Thanks

I use a V1 in my 04 and it works fine. I also use a tool booth transponder and it works as well. I'll have to look and see where the "zone" from Dutch is where I'm mounting mine - it's pretty close.

See if this helps:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=19358

I just had a similar experience on both rear drains on mine. The dealer claimed the same "clogging" but mine were where the connectors attached to the hoses themselves and not the ball part coming off of the rail assembly. Here's a pic of where I had to apply silicone.

It's probably the coolant tube. I haven't heard on any of the various forums for over the past year on the head gaskets going (not that that's impossible). There is a TSB that details the parts list and Sunset Imports is way cheaper than anyone else on what you'll need. If you're worried about a head gasket, get a leakdown test.

I had the exact same thing on mine (2004). It was the transfer case motor used to engage/disengage the center differential. The cardan would manifest itself mainly upon acceleration as a more rapid thumping.

Part number was 955-624-601-01 "Elec Motor.transfer". The invoice states "Replaced transfer case motor because was not engaging".

Haven't heard of the Mintex brand, but I'm running Porterfields up front and they dust significantly less than the stock ones. Great performance as well with the slotted Cryo rotors I'm running.

A nice surprise. The dealer is telling me that this particular failure isn't covered by the CPO warranty. I'll ask them to show me when I'm there picking it up but I'll be ordering parts tonight.

EDIT: I called back asking them to make sure this isn't covered under warranty. After a few minutes on hold they said it was. Apparently the CPO warranty for anything bought after August 2008 is bumper-to-bumper. I think the service writer thought I had bought it earlier than that cut off. So mine's under the knife, free of charge. :)

Well mine let go today. I have CPO. but this marks the 10th trip to the dealer for a repair since I bought it in October. This is pretty much the last known (regular) failure with the 2004s so I'm crossing my fingers it will be trouble free.

The control units talk to each other - both need to be present.

The keys are a precaution.

OK - that clarifies it a bit. Bummer, I was hoping that if I don't like the program or when it is time to sell it off I could avoid another trip for reprogramming.

I'm not sure I understand if I'm not changing the alarm box, then why do I need to reprogram keys? When changing the code on the DME, that requires the keys as well as part of it being an inter-related system?

I've got a DME that has been programmed by FVD to use in my turbo. It comes from the same year model as mine (2004). I apparently need to have it programmed with IPAS codes so that it will work. However, every dealer I've talked to has said that they need to program the keys as well. Digging through the service info that I got from Porschelibrarian, they should be able to just plug in the new DME and then program it with the security codes. I've even cut and pasted the steps that describe what to do with moving one DME to another vehicle to no avail. I suppose I need to just send it back to FVD for programming but I thought I would ask here if there is any way to program this without bringing the whole car in somewhere to have that done (other than just shipping it off to FVD apparently).

Hi,

I can confirm rizzo's quote. I bought the 996 and the Cayenne factory manuals form Porschelibrarian this week. He send me everything I expected within minutes by providing me with a download link right after payment. No delay and excellent stuff, good and quick communication. So nothing to complain about.

lawlord

I just got the Cayenne manuals and it has everything I could think of. I'm looking at a few things that may not be covered by the CPO but I can now fearlessly go in and fix those things if need be. Same deal as above, I got the info within hours of sending payment.

Looks like this part number was updated again. I just had this replaced under CPO warranty under part number 955-421-020-14.

I saw no change in part throttle, no/little boost driving conditions. The CTT's were always known for being a little un-smooth at partical throttle application. This upgrade doesn't make it better or worse. I love the upgrade and recommend it to everyone....especially for the money.

Thanks for the feedback!

I'm also curious in any changes in daily driving or small/part throttle conditions. I also have the bypass pipes and IPD plenum installed already on my 04 CTT so I'm just trying to see what this tune is like when not into the boost.

I don't have a diagram but the alternating current is how it detects if a bulb is burned out. Mine does that as well when checking with a meter and works fine.

I went to the dragstrip last night and tried a few things. Best runs were brake torquing it to no less than 2000rpm with 2.0 60' times (slow by most standards) but without enough boost/rpm it would drop into the 2.2 second range. I was running 14.0 with said 2.2s, but once I figured out I needed to really crank on it off the line the best run was a 13.79@100.9mph. I put it into manual so it would start in 1st gear. For whatever reason it wanted to start off in 2nd gear in D. I tried manually shifting it, but the best mph was to just swap it back to auto right after the launch. No wheelspin, but I did take the PSM off line. It was also at the lower setting for ride height. Weight was 5695 with me in it - that's a lot! I'm in Houston and the temp was about 80 degrees. Mine's bone stock (450hp).