greenboxster

I had a similar symptom that was caused by failed coil packs, but it threw misfire codes. These cars can get pretty expensive if you just throw parts at the problem. You may want to scan the codes to see whether it is MAF or coil packs. Durametric pays for itself quickly!!

Seriously?

1 - try sitting in the other seat and you will find out of only the right one is shaking.

2 - it is rare to need replacement pulleys.

3 - a thief, junkyard, or dealer (in increasing order of cost).

4 - impossible to tell. probably pretty tough to tell even if you posted a video. likely, difficult even in person.

5 - why would you put an automatic in neutral at a red light other than to rev the engine?

You guys have any changes since these posts? Any re-occurrence? Same thing happened to me yesterday. Drove a bit, parked, had heavy rain... when I got back in the car and started it up, I got the check engine light and it's cylinders 3 & 6 misfiring.

Ben -

I haven't had any more codes, but the heaviest precip I have driven through recently has been snow. Seems like a one-off occurrence.

When it is cold outside, I notice more bumpbumpbump when turning the wheels all the way to lock on my concrete driveway. I had assumed it was the colder tires' stiffer sidewalls and lower grip.

Get the fault codes read first.

Most probably causes are bad coil packs or wrong/loose spark plugs.

I would recommend the Durametric so you can read the codes. I've been happy with my enthusiast version. I'd probably order the extension cable if I had to do it over again. I am always kneeling on the ground with the laptop...

I've saved the purchase price in avoiding dealer charges for resetting codes alone.

Your symptoms sound like what happened to me with bad plugs and/or coil packs. See ** Coil pack post **.

Good luck!

You are having misfires in cylinder 3 and cylinder 6. Check the electrical connectors, coil packs, and spark plugs in that order.

Because it happened in the rain - my guess would be bad connections or cracked coil packs.

Thanks, Loren. I was very gentle installing the new plugs and packs last month and the "3" and "6" coil pack connectors were the easiest to click on the packs. I don't really want to tear everything back apart, but I don't know if I am being foolish clearing the code and waiting for it to reappear - or hopefully not reappear!

Might this be a one-time fluke? Am I taking a risk waiting for the code to reappear?

Thanks,

Steve

I searched for various permutations of the P030x misfire code, but didn't come up with any advice regarding the seriousness.

I have a 2003 996TT X50 that I drove up to Virginia for the 13 Hour race (unfortunately in an Integra, not in a Porsche :lol: ). After a blustery, rainy Saturday night, I packed up on Sunday morning and upon startup got a check engine light. Since it was not flashing (and I had no good options to have someone look at it) I drove cautiously back home to Atlanta and plugged in the Durametric. There was a misfire on cylinders 3 and 6.

I cleared the code and it has not yet reappeared. How concerned should I be? What could have caused a misfire on both "front" cylinders? I replaced plugs and coil packs about a month ago, but the car has probably 1,000 miles on it since then.

My car is always garaged, but not a garage queen since she is my daily driver (and occasional camping vehicle :D). Did the rain cause the misfire?

The factory service manual states that you have to use the PIWIS to bleed the cooling system. I suppose you could replace the hose as a DIY and swing by the dealer for them to bleed you (so to speak).

Oh...another thing...you really dont need to take off those aluminum foil looking side heat shields in front of the coil packs...again, not for the faint of heart, but just bend them up on the sides then back down again when you're done....you'll never see the crease or be able to tell they were bent up....much quicker than taking them off.

Big thanks to Loren, ebaker & Chuck for the write-up and comments.

A couple thoughts from my 2003 TTx50. I removed the bumper support (the piece with the brackets for the bumperettes) and its attached heat shield. Four bolts, so why not. Also, the heat shield above the bumper support is attached with 4 easy nuts. If those heat shields are removed, the side heat shields are easier to bend out of the way without mis-shaping 3 layers of shield. One other hint - I replaced the air filter too since the upper passenger side intercooler hose is easier to access with the air filter housing removed. Luckily, I had one on the shelf.

For future search results, here's why I attempted the coil pack & plug replacement.

I had a miss (misfire, stumbling, hesitation) at WOT at high rpms. It happened a couple times with no CEL, but then the dreaded flashing CEL came on (P0301, IIRC). The "drive to the dealer" message showed up, but the CEL cleared itself after a few miles of sane driving. The stored fault was a single misfire on cylinder 5. My local dealer said they couldn't replicate the problem; it happened every time I drove the car hard. :huh: I might be looking for another shop when the warranty is up in December.

Their refusal to really diagnose the problem emboldened me to tackle the project. Since the car has 43,500 miles and is my daily driver, I decided to change all the coil packs and plugs at once.

+1 on checking to make sure the coil pack wires *click* into place. I thought I had all 6 firm, but as soon as I fired it up I knew I was missing at least 1 cylinder. I discovered that AFTER complete re-assembly.

The next day I tore everything back apart and found the culprit. A hint is to slide each rubber boot off the coil pack connector to visually ensure the connection is solid.

It sure is refreshing to have all 450 horses back on board!!!

Steve DeVinney

Atlanta, GA

PM member Porschelibrarian - he can get manuals at a discount.

+1 for Porschelibrarian!! I got my manuals from him yesterday and am much more comfortable heading into a plug/coil pack change (and cam solenoid brackets, if needed).

Now my problem: My 996 is very bad to drive on light loads, like city driving around 50 km/h (30mph) , pushing the throttle very gently and release, just to hold the speed, the car shakes like it would go into fuelcut in and out. Very unconfortable.

The clutch is also really hard and shaky when you try to park the car.

Has anyone here similar experience or it's a fault of my car? My 993 was much better in this regards.

I have never driven other GT2's so I dont know how they feel on normal everyday driving.

Boldis -

I have a 2003 996 TT X50 that shares some components with the GT2. I, too, have noticed that it can be very difficult to drive smoothly with very light throttle application. I know most here would say "why are you using light throttle on a 450 hp 911" :P but I don't always want to go ripping about.

I changed out the Mass Airflow Sensor, but that did not change the stutter that I experience. My dealer said the car is operating normally and some of the stutter may be the Variocam coming "on". Don't know.

A couple months ago I had to have the clutch slave cylinder replaced and that has remedied my heavy clutch problem.

I don't have a lot of experience driving 911s, so I can't really tell if I am just being too picky or if the X50 package just makes the car a little too high-strung for easy, laid-back driving around town.

On the race track everything feels fantastic!!! :D

Steve D.

Stephen -

Welcome! I picked up an '03 TT X50 in December and still can't get the smile off my face.

To answer your questions in no particular order:

- Sounds like the price is a little bit high, but within shouting distance (I don't think I stole mine (or overpaid) but I paid $70k for a Porsche CPO with 29k miles - original sticker was $141k).

- Those appear to be the stock turbo hollowspoke wheels

- Get a PPI

- Buy a Durametrics code reader and check for Type 2 ("mechanical") overrevs. Search the site for more info/debate on type 1 vs 2

- Maintenance costs? Depends on what you drove before. I've gotten used to P car costs with my 2001 Boxster S (owned since 2004), but the costs are high. If you remove the tire budget from "maintenance costs" it should be reasonable. :)

Buying this car is not going to be a rational decision. But, I would argue, it's the right decision! Oh yeah. Add about $4,000 to the price to account for a second set of wheels & tires for the track so you can explore its potential in a safer way!

Steve D.

Yesterday was my 1 month anniversary with my TT. 1,800 miles later I am still ecstatic.

I know folks own these cars for different reasons, but I've never really understood the garage queen mentality. I haven't let my girls eat goldfish in the back seat yet, but we're probably not far off. Oh well! This one was never destined for Barrett Jackson anyway.

Wash, rinse, drive, repeat!

Steve D.

....but invariably I set the onboard computer LCD output to boost and see if I can nail 1.0.....

My wife and I took our turbo to Roebling Road near Savannah on Saturday and had to fill up 3 times. What a blast! I saw 151 just before the Turn 1 brake marker. :o

And today is my 2 week anniversary with the car. Honeymoon's still going...

Steve D.

The problem may be located under your right foot. :P

I've found my first couple tanks haven't lasted very long either. Then again, I have been watching the boost-o-meter more than the fuel gauge.

Steve

I'll add another plug for the Britax. My 3- and 5-year-olds seemed perfectly happy in their Britax Monarch seats in the back of our 2003 996. The seats come with cup holders on each side that need to be snapped off (easily but permanently done - they're not designed to snap off). The seats fit nicely.

However, for a 1 year old, I would recommend the Porsche seat with the lap cushion thingie. I have one of those that I used a bunch in the Boxster, but I wanted to get a matching pair of seats. Besides, the Britax can be converted to booster-only mode (bottom cushion).

At 6'2" I had to move my seat forward a few inches, but that's a sacrifice I am willing to make.

Steve D.

vv23 -

I don't have much guidance for what to look for or avoid, but I just took delivery of a 2003 X50 on New Year's Eve. I'm not prone to buyer's remorse but - even if I were - that car is the cure! Holycrapwhatablast! (It's so smooth and fast there's no time to hit the space bar.) I picked up a bone stock CPO car with 30,000 miles. It may be sacreligious to say here, but I think they came off the line perfect. I hate to see them modded up.

I stepped up from a Boxster S and I'll be damned but the extra 200 hp is pretty significant.

I feel very fortunate to have a wife who agreed it would make a great 40th birthday present - and there's room for my 3 and 5 year old girls in back.

Steve

PS - It has handled the Atlanta winter fine so far, so Canada should be a breeze. :lol:

:help:

After a hard weekend of tracking my stock '01 986 S at Road Atlanta (18,500 miles) that added approximately 300 miles, the engagement point of my clutch is further out than before (i.e. very far from the floor). Is this a sign that I am close to a replacement? The pedal effort hasn't changed, just the point at which it catches.

The car was a complete garage queen when I bought it in April with 10,500 miles, but now it's my daily driver.

Is a clutch upgrade (e.g. to a Sachs performance clutch) a smart move if I keep it as my daily driver or should I simply stick with the OEM type?

Anybody try a lightweight flywheel with any success?

Also, my brakes are now squeeking at low speeds, so I think I glazed those suckers on the track. Any suggestions for brakes that will handle an occasional track day but still be streetable (e.g. Pagid Orange, etc.)?

Thanks in advance! :notworthy: