djantlive

You just pop out the silver "AIRBAG" tab with a plastic knive or cover a screw driver with some rubber glove. Those tabs can be easily scratched.

Try one of those microfiber glass cleaner that's mounted to a stick. avail at auto supply store and home depot. I rarely need to clean mine since I don't smoke.

passenger side has 3 screws you mentioned. after taking out the screw, pull the vent out.

driver side requires you to pop/pull out the headlight switch.

Are you replacing stock ones with CF or something?

Sometimes the pump will stop early but the tank isn't quite full. Was it reading full when you pulled out from gas station only to have it drop 1/4 of a tank within a few miles?

A heat gun can soften the silicon to pry the housing apart. I doubt if it's worth the effort since you can't find a new lense alone anyways.

You can easily get a new housing assembly in halogen for $50-75 a set from eBay. If you plan on keeping the car for a while, upgrade to Litronics and you'll see a difference.

Yes, get the OEM. It's more costly but it's supposed to last a "lifetime". Some trace OEM to a specialized euro brand (can't remember) which may be harder to find and not worth the savings for a top off.

Mixture ration depends on your temp. Typically, 50-50 is optimal. Use de-ionize water, not tap or mineral water to avoid scale build up in radiator.

I think that should be ok. I don't think the extra width is needed though. Just adds weight and foot print. However, if that's the size that's available for the tire you are looking for, you should be ok.

I don't use these filters bc they will shorten MAF sensor life as they leave residue. You gain little to no HP (3hp tops) which has no effect on performance. It's not worth it to me and the stock airbox is plenty big so it's not restrictive. IMO, stick with OEM.

To swap, you don't need to disconnect anything. Just unscrew around the airbox and you should be able to wiggle out the lid a little to pull out the filter.

As i recall, the slates are glued or epoxied onto the vent housing. It's not something you can swap out without breaking it. If you want to sell me your black vents w the silver slates, PM me though. These are OEM silver slate vents right? I wouldn't want something spray painted or home made.

Have you poured 15-50? It's thicker than 0-40 or 5-30 for sure.

I have heard 10-40 dino juice has too much additive and is not recommended. Not sure about synthetic or if this is actually true.

0-40 is the only weigh approved by Porsche. Modern engines are moving to thinner oil to improve engine efficiency as modern oil provide good protection at high temperature.

M1 0-40 is always hard to find since it's a European formula. I've found some at Kragen and I stock up when I do.

Mobil's website has 0-40 listed as Porsche specified. 5-30 is not. The tight tolerance of new euro engines may not get sufficient lubrication at start up and enough protection at hot engine temperature from 5-30. However, I don't know of any engine failure as a result of oil viscosity used. I ran 5-30 in a MB E class without ill effect for a couple of years. However, that car runs cooler than a rear engine 996. Having the right viscosity has a lot to do with gas mileage. If you can't find 0-40 anywhere, 5-30 is probly a good substitute but I'd try to order up some 0-40 even if you had to do it by mail.

Mibil 0-40 has a new bottle look and is still listed on their website. As far as I can tell, it's still available.

http://mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/O...il_1_0W-40.aspx

Check all your fluids - coolant, engine oil, tranny etc. Check your tire pressure too. The panel behind the seats should provide a tight seal to the engine. Check that too.

CF is basically resin covering a fabric. All resin/plastic deteriorate under sun. It's just not smart to put CF on the upper dash that gets the sun. I suggest you get some regular plastic pieces to replace instead of changing to new CF.

All porsche parts are covered for 2 yrs if they were replaced out of pocket. If there were replaced under warranty, there is no free replacment when your car's warranty runs out.

I think coupe and cab instructions are only minor and outlined in my earlier post. Hope you are able to get it out. There is a clip/hook on the window sill on my cab which you'll want to pry a little when pulling on the panel out after removing all the other screws and bolts. If you do break any clips, use JB Weld Quick which will glue them back to ensure a tight fit that is rattle free. It took me about 1 hr to do and I am due to get the panel back after reupholstering it. Loren's instruction was very useful that helped me when I removed it!!

remove speaker, remove screw behind spkr

use hex wrench to remove seat back post

remove plug for windstop (cab only)

remove front seatbelt surround. remove 1 screw (cab)

unclip panel at top rear at window sill

pop a clip in mid of panel near sprk

remove or fold weather strip at window sill into the panel

pull panel to front and up position

It's really confusing to understand what you want to do.

To remove mirror, take out the interior triangle pastic piece, then you should see screws that fasten.

What is the problem exactly? I am unable to help bc I can't understand what you mean. Sorry...

Sounds good. Hope you get that engine cleaned up after the leak is repaired. Good think you didn't have RMS.

Clutch tends to wear out before 50k mi on most 996 so you are probly due and at $290, you got a good deal if they used a stock clutch plate.

Any issues with this mod so far? Any bubbling in the alcantera as a result of sun heat?

What did you use to remove old vinyl since it's bonded to the plastic panel pretty well with foam sandwiched in between? Did you leave the old foam or removed it?

Err, oil change is every 15k mi. I would do it every 10k mi but not as early as every 3k. That would be a waste of money since oil / filter alone are $65-80.

My 02 bi xenon factory light doesn't self level when I switch to hi beam. It's not supposed to. The only time it self levels is when you have the light on and then key to on position. It'll lower and then raise.

Boxster uses the 99-01 litronics. I think when it's retrofit into the car, the self level doesn't work.

Hope that helps you in some way

Agreed, DYI and be a wrench head.

Rennworks in MV does mods and I think basic svc. For svc, dealers (carlsen and stevens creek) are pretty good.

Boxster isn't that hard to do oil change. You can get a car ramp ($20), a set of basic tools from Costco ($40), Mobil 1 oil ($50), Porsche oil filter ($15). If it's about 15k mi since your last service, change air and cabin filters (sold at dealer). While you have the car on ramp, inspect suspension for bents and fluid leaks.

If the scratch can be felt by finger nail, you'll need a repaint. Dealer don't do body work. Instead, they give the work to a body shop nearby. You are better off going to the body shop directly. Ask dealer which they use and get an estimate from the body shop directly.

You may want to consider an aftermarket bumper that is more aggressive. I'd use a good body shop for this as respray can be noticible if not done right. I don't think the bumper needs to be removed to respray. However, it's not hard to do and some choose to do it this way

I assume tire pressure is checked right? New tires have deeper tread and thus more flexible and not corner as flat. Is PS2 supposed to be harder than PS1? If so, that's probly your cause (harder rubber usually means less traction). Stiffness of sidewall also has similar effect.

Do I have to pay to view the TSB on this site? I was able to see a list of TSB including 9112 but don't see anything to click on.

I suppose the same wiring procedure can be used to connect an aftermarket HU to the Bose system that is not MOST (MY02). I am interested in adding Eclipse nav to my Bose.

For $20, I'd use Porsche's oil. It's not worth using something else. Where do you fill this?