bigbuzuki

^+1

You will probably find that your control arm bushings are worn as well.

Anyone have a wire diagram that might help?

Yes.

Fog Lights.pdf

Correct, that's the unit above the ashtray. You can try pulling it out and reseating the plugs for good measure.

Do the same for the controller in the rear if you have the 4 zone system.

Your can bus circuit is playing up.

Could be caused by a faulty control module connected to it or the bus itself being shorted or open circuit.

I would try electrically isolating the front and rear air con modules separately, and see if that makes any difference.

Aux heater is a separate system which can turn on automatically when no one is in the car, to prewarm the cabin prior to you driving off.

It has a separate combustion furnace with exhaust.

It uses the engine coolant as the medium in which it transfers heat to the cabin.

Clever those Germans.

Rebuilt my air suspension pump from ECS Tuning and still inoperative. Could it be the suspension module?

There seems to be confusion between the xenon projection lens and the headlamp housing assembly clear cover.

The fact that the camshaft sensor was faulty and was not registering any code, along with the persistant air temp fault may suggest an issue with the DME itself.

Let's hope the DME reset clears things up, although the service people should have done this through the PIWIS.

I'd get them to check the air temp sensor electrical circuit from the ECU to the air temp sensor.

Try this.

P0112.pdf

Kimichi.

You are correct stating that you were able to separately adjust both the temp and fan speed independently from either drivers or passengers side.

Althought there is only one fan in a 2 zone system, independant airflow control is achieved by the system also modulating the volume air flap servos to regulate the commanded air flow required by either party if the demand is different.

My 4 zone system operates likes this and the 2 zone mode of operation would not be any different.

Therefore you are correct in suspecting a fault in your system, obtaining fault codes should be your next step since it is not finger trouble on your part.

At a guess it sounds like your controller has suffered a glitch.

Is there a "mono" indication lit up in the a/c display? Hold the "Auto" button for a few seconds until the "mono" extinguishes, at which time you should have restored individual control.

This is from the publication Porsche Service Technik.

Regulation of Fuel Quantity.

As a result of the on-demand regulation of fuel flow capacity, fuel heating in the tank is reduced.

This is achieved by the DME control module switching on fuel pump 2 only as required, while fuel pump 1 is always activated.

With the following switching criteria, fuel pump 2 is additionally switched on to increase flow capacity.

At engine start and then 2 seconds run-on (with a hot start 5 seconds run-on).

With a calculated fuel consumption of > 50 liters/hour the pump is switched on, and at < 45 liters/hour switched off again.

With a fill level of < 10 liters in the tank, it is switched on and with > 15 liters it is switched off again.

Depends on the current part numbers (hardware/software) of your ECU and TCM.

Did the defect occur recently in the 5000 miles you have travelled or did it occur once 5000 miles ago?

If it happened recently I would just change the camshaft position sensor as preventative maintenance and rid myself of the worry.

Part number 99660610602.

Sonnen has them for $213.

Or you could try interchanging the 2 camshaft sensors for evaluation.

These are the plugs for your turbo.

Porsche 999 170 221 90 or

Beru 14 F-6

Anything else will not provide the performance and longevity.

Case closed.

Try the following diagnostics.

P300 codes.pdf

Sounds like your Kessy has amnesia from a power glitch.

Try resetting it by pulling its power supply fuse.

If no joy, visit your friendly dealer who will reprogram it.

Make sure you take all your keys to the dealer for the reprogram.

_{It's the turbo vent line. :drive:}

Vent Line.pdf

Try removing the headlight on the other side and see if the force required is the same.

Yes, I am asking about whether the dash panel background lighting including the speedo and tachometer background lighting are also flickering.

Does your speedo and tacho along with other dash panel background lighting also flicker?

Sounds like elex modules may have amnesia due to the power loss.

A trip to the dealer for reprogramming may be required.

On Kessy equipped vehicles, the rear battery is used for starting when the metal key used in the ignition.

If the plastic fob is used, the main under seat battery starts the engine.

Check the door rubber grommet near the door hinge.

The door wiring harness passes through it to enter the cabin.

I have seen this grommet dislodged and expose wiring which can chafe against the door sill.

Regarding the torque arm, you should be able to inspect the rubber on the engine side.

The fender side of the arm can be inspected once you remove the trim on the fender.

Part number for the torque arm if required is 955 375 101 13.

Sonnen has them for $121.