JimPDX

porsche1234...

I think you've been reading to many romance novels my friend!

My dealer up here pretty much said the same thing. "...you'll love what Porsche has done with this car". I was there ready to go, cash in hand for a 2013. But when I drove the 991 it was a total let down. I'm not slamming the 991. Its just that the car has become so much more than I think it needs to be particularly with its gratuitous over use of techie gee-gaws, buttons, and switches and the steering is just plain to weird, even for Portland.

I know this isn't the 991 forum...so Thanks Phillipj...appreciate the comments. I am actively looking for a 997 now.

I have been in the market for a new Porsche for the last three months. The new 991 is a major disappointment to me. With an interior just this side of the Lexus it has become in my opinion a bit "over the top"… but not a bloated corpse like the PanAm.

On my last test drive I counted 41 buttons on the center console, 8 on the drivers seat, 4 on the driver's door. I stopped counting somewhere around 50 and I had more to go. There were something like 14 different screens on the PCM which really isn't that much different from the 997 from what I can tell.

PDK is quick but it is still an automatic. My Audi has the same thing and to me its useless. An automatic Porsche just doesn't sit well with me. Maybe I am showing my age!

The steering to me feels both numb and light, but at speed its not to bad. I have driven both the S with a PDK and the base model Carrera with a seven speed manual transmission without the steering assist. Shifting is short and very "notchy" to the point of distraction. Steering feels heavy without the assist. Preciseness was lacking here. Again, just my opinion.

All this said, it just isn't the Porsche I care to own or drive. So now I am looking at the 997 which I just love. It just feels like my 996 only better if you know what I mean.

I am considering the purchase of a 2010 Carrera 2 manual certified pre owned with 2500 miles on the clock from Sunset imports for $77,000.00. It is a lease return to Sunset, leased by Sunset to someone locally. Two years remain on the factory warranty and as a certified pre-owned additional warranty coverage to 100K.

Optioned as follows:

Meteor gray metallic paint

Black interior

Standard leather seats

Pwr comfort seats with driver memory

Leather sun visors with lighted mirrors

Self dimming mirrors

Gear shift and handbrake aluminum

Aluminum instrument surround

Foot rest aluminum

Heated front seats

19 inch Carrera classic wheels

Rear wiper (this is Oregon!)

Wheel caps colored crests

Bluetooth phone interface

Bose High End Sound Package

Navigation module for PCM

XM Radio

6 disc CD/DVD changer

Floor mats

What do you think of the price.

Here's the link...

http://www.sunsetimp...r=2013&cid=3301

Thanks for your opinion!

Jim

Have been thinking about buying a new one for the last year or so.

Took the S out for a spin at Sunset.

The old girl has gotten fat, a bit soft and spongy and she is wearing lots more jewelry and acts more refined. Her edge is missing. She is big into video games and tech now. Sadly, she even has her name tattooed on her backside P O R S C H E.

Its like seeing your old 112 pound high school girlfriend at a 30 year class reunion with all the added years of cheese burger chubbiness embracing her once athletic figure.

Very disappointing.

Loren, (or anybody else)

I have a 2004 996 c4s coupe tiptronic...since day one i have had a persistent rattle eminating from the window on the driver's side behind the door window (the triangular shaped one). This rattle varies with outside temperature (worse in cold 0 degrees celcius to 10 deg. celcius and in the heat above 26 deg. celcius)

Is this common and is there a fix? Dealer tried once and did reduce it slightly saying it had something to do with a seal and the window.

any ideas?

thanks.

More than likely, the noise you hear is the window ratteling in the frame.

Take a look at tech bulletin 6475. Replacement of a $2.00 rubber spacer did the trick in my car. Took about 15 minutes and its a snap to do.

Yours is a bit newer, but it may be the same problem. I don't think they changed the seating of the window in your series, however.

Hope this helps...

Jim

I installed a homemade garage door opener per instructions on this site, using a Targa switch as the button (for others with glossy switches, I sprayed the matte switch with clear acrylic to make it glossy). I wanted the button to illuminate with the lights on, and the only other switch near a blank was the PSM switch. To make a long story short, I figured out that the PSM switch (with its built-in yellow led indicator) is wired differently than the Targa switch, and I think I figured out the right leads for power to the light.

Targa used the two outside pins (#1 and #5, facing back of switch from left to right). PSM, I think, uses #2 and #3. Can anyone confirm that?

Car is a 2001 C2 Cab.

I had the same problem until Del from Las Vegas helped me out. I pasted the entire discussion about the switch/lighting instructions...I hope this helps you as it did me. Del knows what he's talking about.

Jim

Switzerland

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mitty

I did the garage door mod and the non-smoker swap at the same time. The only problem is I think my switch is defective. It will not light up when I put power to the 2 outside prongs.

Darren, what switch did you use for the garage door? If you used the targa shade switch then I have a fix for you. It is not the switch that is bad, it is that it doesn't have a dedicated circuit like Jim said. You have 2 options. (1)become a expert quickly in electronic scematics and create the circuit after tearing the switch down......or (2)Buy a switch like the TT spoiler switch which has a dedicated circuit (outside posts) and then swap out the faceplate covers.

I chose option 2 and it was exrtremely easy to do. The mod just costs you an extra 20 bucks or so, but worth it. Now, it illuminates when I turn on the lights like the rest of my factory switches.

By the way, if you used the targa shade switch did you find one in glossy?

__________________

-Dell

2000 996 CAB (too many mods to list...I'm addicted)

2000 MB ML430 (one fast SUV)

1981 Datsun 280ZX (garage queen, Dad purchased new when I was 9,now mine, only 60K on the clock)

LVDell

View Public Profile

Send a private message to LVDell

Send email to LVDell

Find More Posts by LVDell

Add LVDell to Your Buddy List

Yesterday, 09:10 AM

#30

JimPDX

Addict

Rennlist Member

Join Date: Dec 2004

Location: Portland, Oregon

Posts: 855

________________________________________

Quote:

Originally Posted by LVDell

Darren, what switch did you use for the garage door? If you used the targa shade switch then I have a fix for you. It is not the switch that is bad, it is that it doesn't have a dedicated circuit like Jim said. You have 2 options. (1)become a expert quickly in electronic scematics and create the circuit after tearing the switch down......or (2)Buy a switch like the TT spoiler switch which has a dedicated circuit (outside posts) and then swap out the faceplate covers.

I chose option 2 and it was exrtremely easy to do. The mod just costs you an extra 20 bucks or so, but worth it. Now, it illuminates when I turn on the lights like the rest of my factory switches.

By the way, if you used the targa shade switch did you find one in glossy?

Hey Dell...the switch i used was the floor well light switch (996-613-980-00 about $30.00). The Targa shade switch only came in matte finish and I didn't want to **** with doing a glossy paint coat to match the other switches in my car

The footweel switch has two dedicated posts as you mention and running a line from the dedicated posts off the window pwr. switch did not illuninate the footwell switch for the door opener...any ideas...

JimPDX

View Public Profile

Send a private message to JimPDX

Find More Posts by JimPDX

Add JimPDX to Your Buddy List

Yesterday, 09:57 AM

#31

LVDell

Addict

Rennlist Member

Join Date: Oct 2003

Location: LV,NV & McLean, VA

Posts: 1,610

________________________________________

I used the FWL switch for my OBC hack and had the same prob.......

solution? I bought a TT spoiler switch and just used the FWL swithc cover on the TT switch (very easy to R&R). Works like a champ!

__________________

-Dell

2000 996 CAB (too many mods to list...I'm addicted)

2000 MB ML430 (one fast SUV)

1981 Datsun 280ZX (garage queen, Dad purchased new when I was 9,now mine, only 60K on the clock)

LVDell

View Public Profile

Send a private message to LVDell

Send email to LVDell

Find More Posts by LVDell

Add LVDell to Your Buddy List

Yesterday, 12:43 PM

#32

JimPDX

Addict

Rennlist Member

Join Date: Dec 2004

Location: Portland, Oregon

Posts: 855

________________________________________

OK Dell...whats a FWL?

Do you have p/numbers for the TT spoiler switch?

Seems to me, though I could be wrong, that the switch design for all switches that light up have the two posts on the end which mine does.

The cover on the switch really isn't that big of a deal. Its bringing power to it to light it. When I tied into the front window power source...the switch would not light.

JimPDX

View Public Profile

Send a private message to JimPDX

Find More Posts by JimPDX

Add JimPDX to Your Buddy List

Yesterday, 01:50 PM

#33

LVDell

Addict

Rennlist Member

Join Date: Oct 2003

Location: LV,NV & McLean, VA

Posts: 1,610

________________________________________

Sorry, FWL=Foot Well Light. I have scematics for the switches and they are not all the same. Some have dedicated circuits for light....others don't. This is the reason I went the route I did.

FWL (pic below)

996.613.980.00.A02(Gloss) A05 for Matte

TT

996.613.155.00.A02(Gloss) A05 for Matte

Attached Images

__________________

-Dell

2000 996 CAB (too many mods to list...I'm addicted)

2000 MB ML430 (one fast SUV)

1981 Datsun 280ZX (garage queen, Dad purchased new when I was 9,now mine, only 60K on the clock)

LVDell

View Public Profile

Send a private message to LVDell

Send email to LVDell

Find More Posts by LVDell

Add LVDell to Your Buddy List

Yesterday, 01:53 PM

#34

LVDell

Addict

Rennlist Member

Join Date: Oct 2003

Location: LV,NV & McLean, VA

Posts: 1,610

________________________________________

If you notice from the 2 that the FWL does NOT have a dedicated circuit like the TT swithc does (post 3 and 5).

Attached Files

liteswitch2.pdf (100.3 KB, 7 views)

spoilerswitch2.pdf (101.1 KB, 12 views)

__________________

-Dell

2000 996 CAB (too many mods to list...I'm addicted)

2000 MB ML430 (one fast SUV)

1981 Datsun 280ZX (garage queen, Dad purchased new when I was 9,now mine, only 60K on the clock)

LVDell

View Public Profile

Send a private message to LVDell

Send email to LVDell

Find More Posts by LVDell

Add LVDell to Your Buddy List

Yesterday, 02:03 PM

#35

LVDell

Addict

Rennlist Member

Join Date: Oct 2003

Location: LV,NV & McLean, VA

Posts: 1,610

________________________________________

Courtesy of Sandy and my conversation over on Renntech a while back:

As you can see on the FWL switch schematic, the switch is really designed to switch a positive voltage (+12v.) coming in on pin 4, not a ground, as is required for OBC operation. I say this because the anodes (black triangles) for the nite illumination LED and the amber annunciator LED are connected internally to that pin. For the LEDs to conduct and illuminate, the voltage on pins 3 & 5 must be more negative than the voltage on pin 4.

The internals of a FWL switch are typical of several other PAG switches. A couple of exceptions would be a convertible top switch and a 996TT spoiler control switch. Those switches have their LEDs isolated from their switch contacts, the way I did it to the FWL switch in my spoiler-extended light mod. By keeping the contacts isolated, the switch contacts can be wired to switch either +12v. OR a ground.

With a ground tied to pin 4, as would be the arrangement in the OBC mod., there's no way an unmodified FWL switch can have nite illumination with either a positive or negative dimming voltage line connected to the nite illumination LED cathode (pin 3).

So, how do you get nite illumination for your OBC switch without having to do some soldering work on a FWL switch?? Here's one solution you might want to try:

You can remove the cap (toggle) from your FWL switch, snap it onto the base of a 996TT spoiler switch body and use that combo to toggle your OBC, instead of using the FWL switch body. Also, anytime you need a "non-descript" switch that doesn't require an amber annunciator, you'll have one by performing this same task. You would then have a switch that has its LEDs isolated from its switch contacts. One thing though, you'll have to paint over, or cover up, the surfaces of the little clear plastic "lens" inside the FWL switch cap. This will keep the nite illumination LED beneath the lens from shining through the lens and looking like an illuminated annunciator light. The lens can be removed from the cap for painting as you can see in the image below.

Attached Images

__________________

-Dell

2000 996 CAB (too many mods to list...I'm addicted)

2000 MB ML430 (one fast SUV)

1981 Datsun 280ZX (garage queen, Dad purchased new when I was 9,now mine, only 60K on the clock)

LVDell

View Public Profile

Send a private message to LVDell

Send email to LVDell

Find More Posts by LVDell

Add LVDell to Your Buddy List

Yesterday, 02:05 PM

#36

LVDell

Addict

Rennlist Member

Join Date: Oct 2003

Location: LV,NV & McLean, VA

Posts: 1,610

________________________________________

One more.......

re: removal and switcheroo of the two tops

There are slots located on both sides of the switch body, just outboard of the toggle, at the toggles' pivot points. The slots are about 3/32" in length and the screwdriver blade should be just wide enough to fit into the slot. Push the blade straight down until it contacts the pivot of the toggle. Then, rotate the screwdriver slightly outward, away from the switch body. The toggle should rock out of its pivot hole and you should be able to lift it off.

There are a pair of indentations on each side of the toggle itself, which may have been designed for removing or installing the toggle, but trying to use them for this task will just result in getting the toggle scratched-up. BTW, before you start, you might want to wrap a piece of masking tape around the edge of the toggle to protect it. This will keep it from getting scratched by the screwdriver blade, in case you happen to slip while rotating the screwdriver outward.

The holes in the "tabs" on the switch body, into which the toggle pivots snap, are not the same size. The toggle will fit only one way, when put back onto the switch.

Attached Images

__________________

-Dell

2000 996 CAB (too many mods to list...I'm addicted)

2000 MB ML430 (one fast SUV)

1981 Datsun 280ZX (garage queen, Dad purchased new when I was 9,now mine, only 60K on the clock)

LVDell

View Public Profile

Send a private message to LVDell

Send email to LVDell

Find More Posts by LVDell

Add LVDell to Your Buddy List

Yesterday, 02:14 PM

#37

TD in DC

Addict

Rennlist Member

Join Date: Aug 2004

Posts: 1,544

________________________________________

LV Dell,

I am currently using the Targa shade switch because I need to control two separate garage door openers. Alas, it is not lit. If I have read the schematics correctly, I should be able to control two separate garage door openers with the TT switch AND light it. I can just pop off the cover and use it instead of the spoiler cover, correct?

TD

__________________

TD in DC

View Public Profile

Send a private message to TD in DC

Send email to TD in DC

Find More Posts by TD in DC

Add TD in DC to Your Buddy List

Yesterday, 02:43 PM

#38

LVDell

Addict

Rennlist Member

Join Date: Oct 2003

Location: LV,NV & McLean, VA

Posts: 1,610

________________________________________

Correct.....and just remember which side you toggle for which door. I was going to do the Targa shade swithc mod for my door but it only comes in matte and I need it in gloss.

My suggestion for you would be to buy a TT switch and then swap the covers with your targa shade switch (or whatever you are using for the garage door). By the way, what are you using for the mod since you have a targa switch employed for the actual targa top???

__________________

-Dell

2000 996 CAB (too many mods to list...I'm addicted)

2000 MB ML430 (one fast SUV)

1981 Datsun 280ZX (garage queen, Dad purchased new when I was 9,now mine, only 60K on the clock)

LVDell

View Public Profile

Send a private message to LVDell

Send email to LVDell

Find More Posts by LVDell

Add LVDell to Your Buddy List

Yesterday, 02:58 PM

#39

TD in DC

Addict

Rennlist Member

Join Date: Aug 2004

Posts: 1,544

________________________________________

Quote:

Originally Posted by LVDell

My suggestion for you would be to buy a TT switch and then swap the covers with your targa shade switch (or whatever you are using for the garage door). By the way, what are you using for the mod since you have a targa switch employed for the actual targa top???

I am using the targa shade switch upside down. Remember that the actual targa switch is below the nav unit on the "batwing" directly above the rear center console. The hacked targa shade switch is with the rest of the switches on the upper center console, and it is upside down. You don't really notice due to the distance . . . . Thanks for the info!

__________________

TD in DC

View Public Profile

Send a private message to TD in DC

Send email to TD in DC

Find More Posts by TD in DC

Add TD in DC to Your Buddy List

Yesterday, 03:01 PM

#40

LVDell

Addict

Rennlist Member

Join Date: Oct 2003

Location: LV,NV & McLean, VA

Posts: 1,610

________________________________________

No prob. Keep us posted!

__________________

-Dell

2000 996 CAB (too many mods to list...I'm addicted)

2000 MB ML430 (one fast SUV)

1981 Datsun 280ZX (garage queen, Dad purchased new when I was 9,now mine, only 60K on the clock)

I need to store my car this winter because of extensive travel. Is there any benefit to having someone start the engine once a week and let it run in place till warm, then shutting her down? Or would it be best to let her sit on tire cradles, with fuel system "stabilized", etc. etc.

I've heard a couple of stories about running it in palce and not running it, both, obviously conflict with each other.

Pro's/Con's?

Thx...

Jim

I have the AutoXray EZ-Scan 5000. A bit pricey at $380, but it is excellent. You can download the data to a PC and print out graphs, etc. It is CAN compliant too.

I think the Actron CP9135 is just a code reader and is $110 at Midway Auto Supply. The CP9145 scans live data, and is about $199 at Midway.

thx Richard...

What is CAN compliant?

I'm looking into the CP9145. I think it would be a bit more beneficial to scan live data...

Thx...

Jim

I want to replace my laptop based OBD-II scanner for a hand held unit. Been thinking about getting the Actron CP9135 for about $180.00. Anybody have one or could recommend a hand held model?

thx...

Jim

I want to put one of my cars up this winter and not drive it. Has anyone used Stabil? Would you recommend it, not recommend it?

Anyone used it in their P/car?

Thx...

Jim

I know this topic has been batted around alot, but would like some opinions.

My 02' C4 Cab will be going off warranty in the next 6 months or so.

Lately I have noticed increased oil consumption (about 1 litre every 750-1000km). There are no obvious oil leaks and everythign else seems fine.

Before it goes off warranty is there anything I demand the dealers do to ensure I won't have a problem a year down the line? I know some oil consumption is 'normal' but mine seems to be increasing.

Thanks

Mike

All cars consume oil. Its as plain and simple as that. Some faster than others, some hardly noticeable others quickly noticeable, however, if you are consuming a quart every 1000km or so, its probably no big deal as far as the car is concerned. What grade and type of oil are you using? Are you using the recommended factory fill?

Hi Loren:

Cannot download. Can you PM the article to me?. thanks Mark

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

You might want to try and save it to a directory first.

Then open Adobe.

With Adobe up on your screen go to file open and pull it up from the saved directory.

It worked for me.

BTW Thx Loren for the reprint. I think it places the issue in perspective reasonably well.

I have a 2001 Cab with the CDR220 radio head.  When I am listening to AM radio and turn the car off I get a weird series of tones over the speakers.  It runs for a few seconds until the stereo powers off.  I wasn't getting this a month ago and I have no idea what the issue might be.  Any thoughts?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Do you have a cell phone close by? They will do exactly what you said.

NXT is all I use. Just threw out my Rejex and P21. IMHO, that stuff is low tech with lots of marketing hype. Well, NXT has lots of marketing hype as well...but it makes Rejex look like you polished your car with Comet kitchen cleanser. Again, just my HO.

Unfortunately for me, the passenger visor on my 1999 Boxster is flapping and the problem is the main hinge on the sun visor (not the mirror flap).  There is no quick fix that I know of.

(If you know of one, please let me know.  I can't even figure out how to disconnect the hinge from the flap; they seem to be connected)

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Just replace the mirror insert. Unlighted ones are about 12.00 at Sunset and lighted ones are about 50.00. Install is a snap for the unlighted ones about a minute and the lighted ones about 10 minutes.

The problem in my car is not related to the mirror, but the big visor itself.  It would happen even if I removed the mirrors.  And the whole visor assembley is very expensive.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

If you have tried to repair the mirror door hinge mount on the sun visor only to have the little mount crack again you may wish to consider a relatively inexpensive fix.

The mirror insert itself is replaceable. You can choose the lighted ones (996-731-903-01-01C) for $48.00 each at Sunset or you can choose the unlighted mirror insert for $11.66 each also from Sunset (986-731-901-01-01C).

Simply remove the existing plastic insert and pop the new ones in. I choose this time to go with the unlighted ones. They are cheaper and if they break again, I'd rather pay $23.00 than $96.00.

If you go with the lighted ones you will have to splice into the existing wiring in the mirror assembly or solder the wires to the contact points in the mirror assembly.

The unlighted ones took 10 minutes to install and the lighted ones may take 30 minutes depending on how quickly you can solder.

Hope this is useful...

Jim :drive:

I agree with Costas...

Try to do a very light buff. I have used Maguires plastic cleaner and plastic polish on my headlights to take out some scratches. It worked real well.

What was the brand name of the cleaner you used? This will help member avoid the product.

One other thing...spray the cleaner on the cloth first next time and do it that way...

Good luck.

I thought real hard about buying one last year and I said...this car is just over priced for what it is. Someone above said you'd have to keep this car for 20 years for it to really appreciate. I think he's right. But in the end, if you like it, then you should get it.

They are captive... how did you lose one?

They do not have a part number in the parts list... and I doubt you can find them at Home Depot. Perhaps a good automotive store or a wrecking yard.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yeah, I know, but one decided to leave. I guess the heat was too much for him...

Thx... :jump:

Jim

Loren...

are the airbox screws (the ones that you remove to change the air filter)a separate Porsche part number or are they just an open stock item you can get at Home Depot?

Thx...

Jim

I sent you a PM...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Perfect. Thank you Loren. I understand it is not for distribution. Again, thank you.

Jim

Loren...

Do you have a schmatic for the removal of the upholstery piece that fits into the cabin side of the sliding roof?

I need to know where the clips are and what type they are.

Jim

2002 carerra c2....

I need to top off my coolant. Do I need to use the recommended Posrche coolant or will any brand do?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hi Bill...

Here's my position...use Posche coolant only. Its expensive as the dickens, but you will never second quess yourself about whether you have used the right one or not. Many members will disagree with what I said, and I can appreciate that. It just seems to me, that for what these cars cost and what Porsche service recommends we would be foolish not to follow their advice.

For what its worth!!

Ps...

Never mix coolant types either. That can cause some problems, details of which are available by searching this site...

Jim

Quick Question:

I have a 99' C4.  All is well but it seems like the battery is really getting taxed when starting the engine.  I am not paranoid but I would rather save myself (worse yet, my wife) from being stuck in parking lot.

Does the battery die a slow death over a period of time or does it happen all at once?  TIA

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Also try to regularly use a battery maintainer available from your local Porsche dealership (about $75.00). It helps prolong the life of your battery.