g8rdmd

Great solution!

Agreed that it sounds like you're headed toward a new regulator. I've replaced my driver side regulator...twice... Do yourself a favor and get the OEM Porsche part from the beginning, not the aftermarket ones at half the cost that claim they're just as good. They're not :censored:

Just ordered a set of LED taillights off eBay. Description and pics say 996 Turbo fitment. Fingers crossed!

Any updates/pics? As you said, you're definitely not the only one with this issue. I'm curious to see the LED lights...

Can you post some pics of a wider view of the oil leak? The next step is to clean the area, run the engine and watch for leaks. Just be patience as sometimes these leaks are difficult to solve.

I'll see what I can get picture-wise. Since the car is apart right now I'm going to change the plugs and coils, fuel filter and really give it a good cleaning to get the grime off. Then I'll put it back together, leave it up on jack stands and let it run for a bit to see if any oil shows itself...

You will always have blow-by on a engine and that is what dirties the throttle body unit. It's also normal to have some oil in the turbo charger pipes which will accumulate over time/use.

You need to look toward the top of the engine for the source of the leak, by looking at your pics, it's all ran down the cylinder head.

No check engine lights or code history?

No CELs, no codes. With the airbox, y pipe and throttle body out, and the engine dropped, I've craned my neck in there with an LED light as best I can--for the life of me, I can't see any wetness anywhere. The oil pressure sending unit was a little gunky, so I replaced it since I had a new one standing by anyway. I'm hoping it's not a head gasket or something else that I can't see/get to without the engine being removed. I reeeeeaaaaally don't want to have to have the engine removed....

Good reading for you: http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/164757-oil-y-pipe.html

Great link with some interesting tidbits. Thanks!

I love renntech :thumbup: Good job g8rdmd !!!! The deposit of oil in the outlet pipe of the compressor, if it is not a mpuddle of oil, can be consider normal. The throttle body is really dirty but again not dramatic....Of course a good cleaning is required!

Thanks again ;) I know we have a lot of cross-posters between here and 6speed--both of these sites are treasure troves of information for the DIYer :thumbup: I still don't really know where the oil is coming from, I'm hoping Loren will have some more ideas for me :notworthy:

Today I decided to get into things to try and see where this mystery oil is coming from... I removed the rear bumper, left intercooler assembly, left tire and wheel well lining, air box, y-pipe and throttle body. Then I lowered the engine to give me the best view...

Here's what I've found so far. The pipe coming from the turbocharger into the intercooler had oil in it (see pic). Not a ton, but it was definitely present and seemed fresh-ish. Shouldn't this pipe be clean? Is it possible for the turbocharger to have an internal leak which is introducing oil into the air system?

That leads me into the second thing I found and that was gummy oil deposits in the throttle body. Again, shouldn't this be clean? It almost seems as if the deposits are gummy enough to interfere with smooth action of the throttle plate. In fact, the car occasionally stutters like it's starved for air and will sometimes stall--I wonder if this is the cause... Best way to clean??

The good news (?) is that I didn't see any leaks high up in the engine or coming off of any supply pipes. The oil pressure sending unit looks kind of dirty and may be leaking a little, so I will replace it (I have a new one on hand anyway). The side wall of the engine, plugs, O2 sensors, etc are clean of oil.

So, my plan while the car is apart is to replace the plugs and coil packs (with 997 coils), clean things up as best I can and get back on the road. I'm just shy of 60,000 miles, what other maintenance should I perform while I've got my baby torn apart?

For looking and some repairs you will need to take the intercooler off on that side (same procedure as a spark plug change).

For now I would clean as much of the old oil and grime off - then run the car to get good and hot -- then look for the source of the leak(s).

OK, I'll start there--thanks a lot for the tips Lorern!

Yeah, definitely isolated to the driver's side of the engine. I'll have to look over the service manuals--is the cam cover accessible without pulling the engine from the car?

OK, all, I was under my car today for routine inspection and a little maintenance. I noticed that the left side of the engine had a coating of oil gunked all over it. I snapped some photos--looks like it's coming from the manifold?? It spreads all the way to the mid- line of the engine, but does not cross to the right. I have had NO oil on the garage floor, no noticeable oil loss according to the on board computer. This is the first time I've noticed this, and I look under the car at least on a monthly basis...

Please help me, what am I looking at? What should I look for? What should I inspect? Is it possibly a manifold gasket? Please tell me it's not the RMS. These were the best pics I could take today, I can get more if you need different views...

I have a 2002 turbo with the natural brown interior... My shift knob and boot are worn and I want to get a new one. I've looked at the parts diagrams and have narrowed it down to two:

996.424.075.05.VRF (says natural brown with silver, up to 02)

996.424.075.05.VSX (says natural brown with silver--sport, 03 and up)

My question is, is the VSX sport one the boot that has the silver ring where it meets the center console? If so, will it fit my 02 or do I just need to get the VRF? Thanks for anyone who knows

If everything else is ok- have you tried removing your driver's side floor mat (or at least pulling it way back away from the pedals)? If mine is even just a TINY bit under the clutch, I get that same clicking and no start. I was about to have it towed in when I called my local Porsche dealership and they told me to try the floor mat first... sure enough, it worked.

If you have already done this, I apologize. Just thought I would mention it. Good luck! :-)

2002 turbo......

This is now the second time this has happened:

Get in the car, depress clutch, turn key and all I get is click, click click. All the interior lights still light, the radio comes on, etc (i.e. all electrical equipment seems to be working...). Still enough juice to pop the hood and access the battery. The voltmeter on the dash reads about 10-11 volts. Turn the key off and try again and same thing...

The first time it happened, I was in a hurry leaving for work--so, I hooked up a battery charger/jumper and the car turned over with no problem . Got to work, put the car on a charger and within 30 minutes it showed a full charge. Sure enough, voltmeter with the key in the on position shows 12 volts, up to 14 with the car running.

Same thing happened today, about three weeks after the first incident. This time, the battery jumper didn't start the car right away--I had to let it charge about 5 minutes. Again, before jumping the voltmeter read 10-11; after it read 12 and up to 14 running.

I have noticed that the car does lose electricity during these episodes, if briefly. I know because I have a Kenwood stereo which loses all its memory presets when this occurs.

So, any ideas? Sorry, I know this is long but I wanted to include as much info as possible. Wouldn't seem to be that it's the battery, or is it just going bad slowly...? Starter switch? Alternator? Help? Thanks!

Hmmm...that does make sense... If it happens again I'll try that, may save me some frustration :huh:

Instead of replacing the whole back section. Go a interior -- top shop and ask about redoing the bolsters.

I had mine done --- drivers side bolster and bottom bolster for $100 per section -- total $200. They had to remove seat - take apart and resew those sections. I have Graphice Grey - Supple Leather and it came out great.

I tried Leatheriqe dye and kit --- what a rip-off and no customer support -- Don't use Leatherique and that cost me $98.00 - so the $200. for a great job was a better buy. The match in leather was perfect.

Good luck.

Chuck --- Myrtle Beach

B) Good info, thanks! I'll definitely look into that!

Hey guys...I am looking to replace the leather cover on my driver's seat, the upper portion. The outer bolster is tearing and cracking and looks awful. The rest of the seat is great, so I figure I can get a new leather cover and have an upholsterer replace it...? I found new, OEM ones for about $600 which seems reasonable to me. Here are the particulars:

2002 996 Turbo

Natural Brown leather (code on the hood sticker is 04)

Sport seats (perforated leather in the center panels) without the Porsche crest

The part I narrowed it down to through the PET was 996 521 155 06 VRB

Before I order it, I'd like to be sure that I'm actually looking at the right part. I'd also like to know if what I'm envisioning is even possible...

Thank you all, :renntech:

Yes, democracy at its best! In fact I believe in it so much that I replaced my battery last night :D

Thanks, guys. Guess I'll be looking for a new battery. The RennTechers and the 6speeders all seem to be in agreement!

we're all the same guys...LOL

Yeah, I figured most of us were on the same forums...not everyone has the same screen names though. :D

Thanks, guys. Guess I'll be looking for a new battery. The RennTechers and the 6speeders all seem to be in agreement!

2002 turbo......

This is now the second time this has happened:

Get in the car, depress clutch, turn key and all I get is click, click click. All the interior lights still light, the radio comes on, etc (i.e. all electrical equipment seems to be working...). Still enough juice to pop the hood and access the battery. The voltmeter on the dash reads about 10-11 volts. Turn the key off and try again and same thing...

The first time it happened, I was in a hurry leaving for work--so, I hooked up a battery charger/jumper and the car turned over with no problem . Got to work, put the car on a charger and within 30 minutes it showed a full charge. Sure enough, voltmeter with the key in the on position shows 12 volts, up to 14 with the car running.

Same thing happened today, about three weeks after the first incident. This time, the battery jumper didn't start the car right away--I had to let it charge about 5 minutes. Again, before jumping the voltmeter read 10-11; after it read 12 and up to 14 running.

I have noticed that the car does lose electricity during these episodes, if briefly. I know because I have a Kenwood stereo which loses all its memory presets when this occurs.

So, any ideas? Sorry, I know this is long but I wanted to include as much info as possible. Wouldn't seem to be that it's the battery, or is it just going bad slowly...? Starter switch? Alternator? Help? Thanks!

Thanks! Looks like I'm off to buy a new rivet... :renntech:

OK, 2002 996TT... The little tether on my gas cap broke a few months ago and I've gotten a new unit, ready to install. How in the heck do you get the little grommet holding the original tether out??? I can get it about 2mm, but how in the world do I get it to release so I can get the new tether and cap in there??? Thanks guys :renntech:

I've done this mod too B) I can definitely tell it's a shorter throw and a smoother row. I love it!

You have a ground loop! Typical solution is to ground your units to the chassis. Start with the head unit since you are running the stock amp.

Thanks! I will give that a try :D

The particulars: 2002 Turbo with aftermarket Kenwood DNX8120 stereo headunit, stock amps and speakers and subs.

I installed the unit just about one year ago and all was great. Now, out of the blue, within the last month or so, I get what I can only describe as alternator whine. It doesn't happen all the time, but often enough to be a pain. If I put the unit into standby (i.e. killing the amps), the whine disappears. If I re-engage the stereo, the whine will not always come back. Its loudness increases directly in relation to the throttle I give the motor. I'm thinking it is a grounding issue somewhere in the system. Problem is, where do I start looking, and how do I diagnose it??? And, how come it has only recently come about--did a ground wire maybe just come loose? Any guidance you guys can give would be greatly appreciated!

:renntech:

Thank you.