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996noob

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Everything posted by 996noob

  1. Can Mk2 reverse sensors be hooked up to Mk1 Reverse ECU and work? I checked the ECU numbers and they weren't the same, but I was wondering if they will work. I like the smaller mk2 style sensors because they are smaller and was thinking of using them together with a mk2 bumper, but retaining the factory reverse system. Any advice? Thanks.
  2. I've successfully installed the PSS9 on my 996. Setting the coilovers at the highest level within Bilstein's prescribed range, I landed on a ride height of 113mm Front and 135mm Rear, measured from the points prescribed by Porsche according to Loren's digrams, done after alignment. As the heights were close to X74 specs, I chose to run the X74 alignment specs. The only spec I could not get was the front camber. The most vertical I could get was half a degree negative on the left and 1 degree negative on the right. Would I be better off running half degree left and one degree right, or if I evened it out at one degree each side? I figured that in the end I should consider the Total Camber by adding them up, in this case one and a half degress, that's why I chose to keep half left and one right at that time. What do you think?
  3. Hey Ben, didn't see that you solved your problem before I posted my solution. I think I was close. Haha. Anyway, I wanted to ask you what wheels you are on, and where I could something like that. Thanks!
  4. Is it a creaking sound when there is suspension deflection at slow speeds? Well, I think it may be the rack end ball joint or the tie rod end ball joint, creaking. The grease gets dry, and even though there is no play, it creaks. I got this countless times on my BMW's and also my 996. For the tie rod end, I managed to use a screwdriver to pull the balljoint rubber boot slightly to put the straw of a can of Fluid Film in there. A quick squirt and some manipulation solved the sound. As for the rack end, you will have to turn the steering all the way to one side and then remove the rubber gaitors to get at the joint. Anyway, that's what has happened for me a couple of times. The only way to tell is to separate the ball joint of the tie rod to the hub carriers, then you will be able to tell if there is creaking when you move the joints by hand. Mine creaked and you could feel the "vibration" of the creaking. Alot of the time, this "vibration" comes through to the steering wheel when you have large, slow suspension travel. Do you get this sensation?
  5. I've been wondering about this very issue for Tiptronic cars. If I tackled the rubber mounting replacement, what part do I buy, do I follow what is used on the Manual transmissions? The part is not listed in the parts diagram but I know the manual transmission guys use 996 375 055 05. Seeing as how the side plates are the same part number for both Manual and Tiptronic, I am guessing the also share the same rubber mounting. What do you think?
  6. Hi Loren, Your esteemed reply is sought on this matter. Based on my findings, is it sufficient to conclude 100% that the MAF is the culprit to my uneven power at WOT? Should I then clean the MAF or don't bother and just buy a new MAF? Thanks!
  7. At idle, 680 to 720 rpm, the reading was 17.75 kg/h. Holding the engine steady at 2,520rpm, the reading was 49.00 kg/h. What step should I make next? ------------ Edited with Update - I went down to the car again to try unplugging the MAF. Went for a drive. Had what seemed to be full power restored at WOT! There are 2 interesting things to note about running without the MAF connected. 1) it did not set off the CEL. But, I think there must be some errors registered if I check it with the Durametric. Will check later. 2) the aircon compressor was not allowed to engage. Re-connecting the MAF allowed the A/C compressor to run properly again. I think this is because running with the MAF disconnected also disconnects the idle control circuit and idle valve, and hence the A/C compressor is not allowed to run, otherwise the car would stall. Ok, on to conclusions. Is this a conclusive test that the MAF is on its last legs? Was my 2,520rpm reading of 49.0 kg/h bordering on the low end of the acceptable range and would eventually be off spec at higher rpms? Do I.... A) try cleaning the MAF with contact cleaner or B) don't bother, just buy a new MAF. Thanks again to the forum, its members, and the search function!
  8. Some history on what had transpired before the problem: A) Had broken vacuum lines for intake flap switchover and was running without them for a few months. B) Replaced the vacuum lines, made sure they were connected to the right places. C) Bought a Durametric to see if I had any codes, cleared them, and there remain no codes anymore for the engine management. Symptoms: Only during hard aceleration through the rev band, at WOT, the engine has difficulty climbing revs at certain portions of the rev range. There is no bucking or coughing or sudden loss of power that would cause jerking, but instead the revs just seem to struggle at certain revs, then continue, then struggle again, while the car tries to accelerate up to the red line. There are no codes from the durametric. Should I try unplugging the MAF and drive? Will I damage the car if I WOT with the MAF unplugged? If it drives better without the MAF, does it mean conclusively that the MAF is bad? What else can I try?
  9. My gut feel is look at the Oxygen Sensors. The problem you are facing seems to be at part throttle, where closed loop operation of the ECU is usually happening, and the accurate information from the O2 sensors are required. I'm new to Porsche's but I'm just basing my guess from common sense and some experience with other european cars that use Bosch engine management. Let us know how you get along with the car. Good luck!
  10. Wow, that's a major change! Do let make the video clips for us. I have been considering this system too. Are the Mufflers themselves, light weight or heavy, solid and dense? Did all the bits look exactly as pictured, or different? Sometimes internet retailers may use a picture that varies from the actual product. We look forward to more review on the system. Enjoy!
  11. Hi Loren, Do you have the procedure for a Tiptronic? I would like to change my transmission mounting, so the Tip has to come out. Thanks!
  12. After loosening the nuts, how did you lever the shock to move? Did you have to raise the car? One wheel off the ground, or both? Or none?
  13. Unfortunately you'll really need to remove the transmission to replace the mount. The good news is that the transmission is quite easy to remove in a 996. And you'll really need to be careful to press the mount out so you don't crack the case. Another option would be to replace the entire tale cover that includes the integrated mount. Unfortunately that particular part just over $800. I have been considering machining a special puller/press out of steel to do the extraction and pressing in of the mount, with the trans still on the car. Do you really think it is pointless to pursue this route? I'm figuring if there is enough space around the mount for the special tool it might be possible. But, of course I value you opinions on this. If I remove the Transmission, mine is a Tiptronic, what is the procedure of removing a Tip instead of a Manual? Is it substantially more difficult? What do I have to look out particularly for? If I remove the transmission, should I change the RMS? Is it more difficult to access the RMS with a Tiptronic? Most of the RMS tutorials I've seen are for Manual transmissioned cars. Thanks to everyone for any advice!
  14. How does one change the transmission mount? Does the transmission need to be pulled to press the new mount in, or can it be done on the car with special tools?
  15. Hey James, If you decide to change the mufflers, do let us know how it sounds. I too have been looking at the offerings from Design911, been considering both those mufflers (DesingTek and Dansk OE Sport) but haven't decided which one either. But for me, there's no real need yet, maybe in a couple of months. I haven't been able to find any reviews on DesignTek products though.
  16. That's sounds like a BMW specific plug. But then again, perhaps they share the same plugs? Just wondering, is there a list of plug references that are OE/factory installed on our 3.4 and 3.6 engines that can be found on this forum?
  17. I was wondering too, if the Fabspeed X pipe for 996 was worth looking into. I have not come across any reviews yet either.
  18. I'm resurrecting this thread because I have not completely solved my problem with the vacuum lines. Would someone help me out with the logic and see if I am interpretting this correctly? The resonance Flap is normally open, which means that in rest state it is Open, which means that if there is no vacuum applied to the Flap, it is Open. Can I conclude that the Changeover Valve is closed? Idle is between 700 to 3120rpm, during which Flap should be Open, which means that at Idle, Changeover Valve is closed. Can I conclude that there should be no vacuum if I pull off the side vacuum hose on the Changeover Valve? I'm asking because ever since I broke those hoses, I've been having very uneven power delivery during WOT through the rev band. And now that I have fixed the hoses (and connected them to the correct places), I still have the uneven WOT power. Do I need to reset something? Would buying a Durametric help me solve the problem I am experiencing? Can I test if my changeover valve is working? No. Open is OPEN. That means the flap is open when vacuum is not applied. Or, to put it another way, the flap is closed when vacuum is applied. Removing the side vacuum line that goes to the flap should not find any vacuum when at idle or when engine is off. That's what I meant - No Vacuum, Flap Open. Vacuum, Flap Closed. I wanted to further conlude if - No Vacuum, Flap Open, Changeover Valve Closed. Vacuum, Flap Closed, Changeover Valve Open. so that I can diagnose the proper operation of my changeover valve. Does a faulty changeover valve throw up any error codes? Changeover valve is normally closed meaning that without electric signal to it, no vacuum will get to the side nipple. An electrical problem with valve with throw a code. A vacuum leak will not unless it is large enough to make you run lean and then you will get an O2 sensor code. Thanks for the information and the clarifcation. I'm getting to know my car better everyday thanks to you guys. Last question, I did try to suck on the Flap hose, and it did make a sound like it was flapping, but I have no idea if it flaps partially or fully. The amount of air needed to make the sound wasn't much. I keep feeling as though it should take more volume for a full swing, but I have no mental picture of how it works, so I can't judge properly. Is the Flap ever known to fail, become stuck, move partially, or is it a part that in general never goes bad? If there is really no way to tell unless i disassemble the intake, then I guess I will have to take it apart to check.
  19. I'm resurrecting this thread because I have not completely solved my problem with the vacuum lines. Would someone help me out with the logic and see if I am interpretting this correctly? The resonance Flap is normally open, which means that in rest state it is Open, which means that if there is no vacuum applied to the Flap, it is Open. Can I conclude that the Changeover Valve is closed? Idle is between 700 to 3120rpm, during which Flap should be Open, which means that at Idle, Changeover Valve is closed. Can I conclude that there should be no vacuum if I pull off the side vacuum hose on the Changeover Valve? I'm asking because ever since I broke those hoses, I've been having very uneven power delivery during WOT through the rev band. And now that I have fixed the hoses (and connected them to the correct places), I still have the uneven WOT power. Do I need to reset something? Would buying a Durametric help me solve the problem I am experiencing? Can I test if my changeover valve is working? No. Open is OPEN. That means the flap is open when vacuum is not applied. Or, to put it another way, the flap is closed when vacuum is applied. Removing the side vacuum line that goes to the flap should not find any vacuum when at idle or when engine is off. That's what I meant - No Vacuum, Flap Open. Vacuum, Flap Closed. I wanted to further conlude if - No Vacuum, Flap Open, Changeover Valve Closed. Vacuum, Flap Closed, Changeover Valve Open. so that I can diagnose the proper operation of my changeover valve. Does a faulty changeover valve throw up any error codes?
  20. I'm resurrecting this thread because I have not completely solved my problem with the vacuum lines. Would someone help me out with the logic and see if I am interpretting this correctly? The resonance Flap is normally open, which means that in rest state it is Open, which means that if there is no vacuum applied to the Flap, it is Open. Can I conclude that the Changeover Valve is closed? Idle is between 700 to 3120rpm, during which Flap should be Open, which means that at Idle, Changeover Valve is closed. Can I conclude that there should be no vacuum if I pull off the side vacuum hose on the Changeover Valve? I'm asking because ever since I broke those hoses, I've been having very uneven power delivery during WOT through the rev band. And now that I have fixed the hoses (and connected them to the correct places), I still have the uneven WOT power. Do I need to reset something? Would buying a Durametric help me solve the problem I am experiencing? Can I test if my changeover valve is working?
  21. Just a little off topic, but still on engine mounts, I have a few questions I hope you could shed light on. I've read alot of old threads about busted mounts from jacking the car from the engine. It seems to me that from the design of the engine carrier and the mounts themselves, in normal circumstances the engine pulls down on the hydraulic filled mounts, and when jacked up, would put them under compression instead. How would one be able to bust the mount under compression? The casing on the top side looks extremely robust and should constrain the compression easily. It seems more likely an issue if the top mounting bolts of the mounting can take the weight of the car, pulling the engine mounting up from the engine bay area.
  22. Crystal clear. Basically, I'll set the PSS9's in the middle range as a start point, install on car, see where I land in terms of ride height, then adjust the heights to, say, X74 specs, should I choose that as a reference, keeping in mind that I should not deviate out of the range that Bilstein has set on the strut perch adjustment range. In essence, I should only be adjusting within Bilstein's range. I'll only use Porsche specs as a guide to alignment. I've sent you a PM with my email address. I'll compare your instructions to mine. I think my instructions are incomplete, or some early version.
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