BoxsterSenior

JFP, Thank you for your help.

JFP, Thanks again for the clarification regarding the TWC (main cat infront of the muffler) bank 2 (drivers side). One other clarification please. In the diagram you provided, there are three 02 sensors shown. #26 [front of pre-cat], #27 [after pre-cat] & #25 [after main cat].

Which O2 sensors are present on my 01 S? Number 26 & 27 or 25 & 26 or 25 & 27? Thanks!

JFP, Thank you for the clarification regarding which ‘cat’ (pre cat or main cat converter) is failing when you get a P0430 code. The reason I stated the pre cat was based on the On Board Diagnostic information that I received from Form members indicating ……

from ON -BOARD DIAGNOSTIC for P0420 , P0430, "Note: In the case of a catalytic converter fault in the Boxster (2.7l and 3.2l), only the pre-catalytic converter is to be replaced ".

The note indicates the pre-catalytic converter to be replaced ???????

As for checking the operation of the O2 sensors (pre and post) below are the Durametric readings…

At idle and 180 degrees engine temp……….

BANK 1

Front O2 sensor voltage readings: 0.08 to 0.78 fluctuating (like roller coaster) resistance reading: 128 steady (flat line)

Rear O2 sensor voltage readings: 0.68 to 0.76 steady (flat line) resistance reading: 320 steady (flat line)

BANK 2

Front O2 sensor voltage readings: 0.09 to 0.78 fluctuating (like roller coaster) resistance reading: 64 steady (flat line)

Rear O2 sensor voltage readings: 0.65 to 0.79 steady (flat line) resistance reading: 192 steady (flat line)

All (4) O2 sensors heater voltage: 2.05 v

I understanding that these values/readings are normal and functioning. Any suggestions? Thanks.

My 01 Boxster S (70K miles) has starting throwing P0430 CEL codes. Through help from Porsche forums I have ruled out bad O2 sensors and other upstream stream systems causes. Before I investigate changing the pre-cat, I remember reading somewhere that with an infrared thermometer you can read the temp of the cat as compared to the manifold and determine if the cat is bad by the temperature differential. Has anyone done this and is it a good indicator to make the final decision to purchase a new cat? How much difference (higher) should the pre-cat be? Thanks

Loren, thank you for the feed back information.

With my Durametric, I believe triggered the secondary air pump (sounds like a vacuum cleaner) with the Durametric drive links. Does that indicate the fuse and relay are functioning?

I have cleared the codes and driven the car two different 10 mike trips and the codes (so far) have not returned.

Just recently the Check Engine Light came on by 2001 Boxster S. I plugged in my Durametric reader and the following (3) codes appeared……….

P0430 Porsche code 45 Cat conversion bank 2 / exceeds limit value

P1411 Porsche code 208 Secondary air injection system Cyl (4-6)

P0410 Porsche code 80 Secondary air injection system Cyl (1-3)

Can anyone tell me what failure would cause these codes to appear?

I suspect O2 sensors ????

The following are the O2 sensor resistance readings………

Bank 1 ahead of CC: 128 Bank 1 behind CC: 384

Bank 2 ahead of CC: 64 Bank 2 behind CC: 265

Can anyone tell me what the baseline reading should be?

Thanks!

Tiptronic axle drive flange removal

I have a slight gear lube leak coming from the axle drive flange on my Tiptronic (2001 Boxster S). Need technical advice on axle drive flange removal so I can replace the seal. It appears from the differential diagram that the splined axle drive flange is held in by a small wire ‘C-ring’. Question: does the axle flange just pop out when evenly pried out from the case, or is there a special removal process? Also, should the C-ring be replaced? Thanks for the assistance.

Loren,

Thank you for your assistance!

I'm trying to find the front and rear wheel specifications [width / weight / offset] for factory 17" wheels for a 98 Boxster. Can someone provide the information or direct me to a location that has it?

Thanks!

Porschelibrarian,

Found your post reply......I only have a Durametric code reader, but let me study the servive manual information you have provided. I can perform the On-board Diagnostic troubleshooting steps, and let you know the out come. Thanks!

Recently, on my 98' Boxster (mileage 90 K) the CEL came on and from my Durametric reader, code P0446, Porsche fault code 95 [shutoff valve activated / charcoal filter] was displayed. Can anyone explain what this means and what do I (from a DIY perspective) need to do? Thanks!

I have been trying to get in touch with them as well. I order a top in January 2009 I recieved it in June 2009. I have been having problems fitting the top. Now I see why they wont answer my calls. If anyone wants a project to fit my 987 top on their Boxster Please feel free to make me a reasonable offer and I would be glad to unload.

I'm looking for a 'used' Zeintop for 986. Will a 987 Zeintop fit a 986? Or, does any one know of 986 Zeintop that's for sale on the east coast?

Thanks!

Loren,

Would you please provide the radio code for a Becker CDR 210 Serial # W5020138.

Thank you!

Try 8272

or

8270

If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so...

Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST

Loen,

Thank you very much!

Loren,

Would you please provide the radio code for a Becker CDR 210 Serial # W5020138.

Thank you!

Assuming you have looked for pinched wires or connectors that are broken or not latched then you are pretty much down to the cluster.

If you could find a friend with the same type cluster you could try that.

Loren,

Got friends, but none with Boxster instruments clusters for me to borrow. I'm going to search the forums for a used one to try. Thanks for you help.............will let you know the out come.

Phil

Loren,

I was able to purchase a used (verified working condition) instrument cluster from a fellow Boxster enthusiast, installed it and everything is working. Still do not know what caused the 'no warning failure' of cluster gagues and display.

Phil

Thank you for the quick reply. If you think of anything else I sould be aware of (like making sure I have the activation CODE), please let me know.

Will a CDR220 from a 2000 Boxster (without Bose or navigation) plug and play into a 1998 Boxster CDR210 standard set up? Technical advise welcome.

Assuming you have looked for pinched wires or connectors that are broken or not latched then you are pretty much down to the cluster.

If you could find a friend with the same type cluster you could try that.

Loren,

Got friends, but none with Boxster instruments clusters for me to borrow. I'm going to search the forums for a used one to try. Thanks for you help.............will let you know the out come.

Phil

Good luck I hope that cures the problem

Aron,

Hopefully more diagnostic information……..spoiler warning light on all the time, radio display (and sound) cutting out and coming back on for a second then cutting out again continually. When I first turn the key to the on position, the speedo and tach needles bounce up and down for a few seconds and stop. Dash digital back light glowing.

UPDATE…….installed new ignition switch………NO change to any of the electrical gremlins. Pulled the dash out and checked the connections……..nothing loose, all looks in tact.

Any other ideas what could be causing these anomalies?

Phil

Did you check the (multiple) chassis grounds under the dash?

Loren,

No did not check the ground connections (should have when I had the dash out). I believe there were two. Will do that next and see what effect that has.

Thanks, Phil

Marked with red arrows - I have seen a couple of these with corrosion before.

Loren,

Thanks for pointing out the locations. I believe I can access the driver side ones once the instrument cluster is out. How do get behind the pass airbag area to check the ground connections there?

Phil

Loren,

Dissassembled, inspected and re-assemble the ground connections as you have indicated (except for under airbag) but found no corrosion. The exercise had no affect on the speedo, tach and digital display.

Any other ideas other than the instrument circuit boards ar bad?

Phil

Good luck I hope that cures the problem

Aron,

Hopefully more diagnostic information……..spoiler warning light on all the time, radio display (and sound) cutting out and coming back on for a second then cutting out again continually. When I first turn the key to the on position, the speedo and tach needles bounce up and down for a few seconds and stop. Dash digital back light glowing.

UPDATE…….installed new ignition switch………NO change to any of the electrical gremlins. Pulled the dash out and checked the connections……..nothing loose, all looks in tact.

Any other ideas what could be causing these anomalies?

Phil

Did you check the (multiple) chassis grounds under the dash?

Loren,

No did not check the ground connections (should have when I had the dash out). I believe there were two. Will do that next and see what effect that has.

Thanks, Phil

Marked with red arrows - I have seen a couple of these with corrosion before.

Loren,

Thanks for pointing out the locations. I believe I can access the driver side ones once the instrument cluster is out. How do get behind the pass airbag area to check the ground connections there?

Phil

Good luck I hope that cures the problem

Aron,

Hopefully more diagnostic information……..spoiler warning light on all the time, radio display (and sound) cutting out and coming back on for a second then cutting out again continually. When I first turn the key to the on position, the speedo and tach needles bounce up and down for a few seconds and stop. Dash digital back light glowing.

UPDATE…….installed new ignition switch………NO change to any of the electrical gremlins. Pulled the dash out and checked the connections……..nothing loose, all looks in tact.

Any other ideas what could be causing these anomalies?

Phil

Did you check the (multiple) chassis grounds under the dash?

Loren,

No did not check the ground connections (should have when I had the dash out). I believe there were two. Will do that next and see what effect that has.

Thanks, Phil

Good luck I hope that cures the problem

Aron,

Hopefully more diagnostic information……..spoiler warning light on all the time, radio display (and sound) cutting out and coming back on for a second then cutting out again continually. When I first turn the key to the on position, the speedo and tach needles bounce up and down for a few seconds and stop. Dash digital back light glowing.

UPDATE…….installed new ignition switch………NO change to any of the electrical gremlins. Pulled the dash out and checked the connections……..nothing loose, all looks in tact.

Any other ideas what could be causing these anomalies?

Phil

Aron,

I will check to see if the back lighting is working this evening when it is darker.

In the meantime, I have ordered the replacement switch 4A0905849B and will change it out when it arrived next week.

Thanks for your suggestions on probable cause.

Phil

The ignition switch is still a suspect. How old is your battery? Sometimes a failing battery can create strange electrical issues. Have your battery tested first.

Philip

The battery is only six months old and spins the engine over like a top.

Phil

Are you noticing any difficulty in turning the ignition key? I'm not going to say all electrical gremlins are caused by a faulty ignition switch but they are common enough to look there first. If your key does not turn/return freely, your switch may be failing and this can cause lots of strange electrical behavior.

My switch failed w/o the typical electrical gremlins but I could remove my key and the motor would keep running and trying to get the key back in was very difficult. This was quite alarming as there was no way I could shut the car down.

Back to your problem if it is the switch it’s a relatively inexpensive and simple repair that has been covered here many times.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=493

One addition or suggestion I have to the DIY instructions above is to use a low step stool or crate that is the same height of the door threshold and a cushion across the threshold to to make it easier on your back while you are contorting yourself into position to access the back of the switch located behind the dash.

Of course it could be something else, such as a bad connection behind your gauge cluster or possibly a bad fuse.

Good luck, hope you find the solution.

Aron

Aron,

No......have not had an issues with the key or ignition switch. Ocassionally, the radio will cut out for a second when first accelerating.

Phil