maniac

Do you still have the work order from the work he did? If so did he replace any of the parts I mentioned?

None of the one's that you mentioned, only the oem clutch kit (clutch, pressure plate & throw out bearing)

While it may not be the mechanics fault that the part went bad he is still responsible for its replacement. He could make the argument that the track time hammered the TOB but thats clearly insane. No DE could ever destroy a part that is known to easily last 70k miles. I'm willing to bet he failed to catch the issue that caused the failure in the first place. Under 50k is a bit early for a TOB replacement. Have the next mechanic check (996 116 087 01 guide sleeve, 012 141 751a intermediate piece, and 996 116 712 02 release lever). I'll bet one of these parts are damaged and should have been replaced by the first guy.

Thanks I will follow your lead

Yes, Thanks!, I'm in the Mc Allen Texas area.

Not he just stay on his position, that he already checked with his Lawyer, that he doesn't have any obligation to fix the car. Poor Ethics & was a very bad recommendation. <_<

Thanks Guys, great advices!!!

I have a '02 996 C2 with just 47000 miles, I found that after my first DE track driving my car began to make clutch noises, the problem was the throw out bearing, the mechanic installed a new OEM clutch kit that included this part, just one week later that I went to my 2nd. DE, again the same noise, now the mechanic mentions that is the same problem, but that he will charge me again the same amount of labor, because the problem is the part. Does this cars have a weak throw out bearing?, Did you have this similar issue?, How do you take care of it? :cursing:

Which type of brake pads do you recommend me, for my 996 that will be good in performance for DE, but will not be very noisy for driving on the street?.

Hello everyone. Hope you're all doing well.

I finally did the clutch and flywheel replacement. I went with the AASCO LWFW and the Spec Stage 1 Clutch with Spring Center.

I'm glad I did it since the old clutch was down to the rivots on the flywheel side. I also left the RMS alone as it was nice and clean in there and I'm a firm believer in the "if it works don't f%#* with it" theory.

The job itself was pretty easy as a clutch and flywheel job goes. I've done several on 944's and the 996 is a piece of cake.

I'm a bit concerned as I have a moderate shudder when starting in 1st gear and down shifting under load. I'm also getting a noticeable vibration/noise under 75% load in 1st and 2nd gear. I know it's not the noise from going to new flywheel as I was prepared for that (for all the people that ask if you can really hear the chatter when using a LWFW, yes, you can hear it). I think I may have bad motor mounts and now that the clutch hooks up stronger, the worn mounts are showing. I've been under the car and double checked everything and there is no evidence of missing anything on the clutch/flywheel job. I always torque everything to spec and mark every bolt on reassembly.

The mounts aren't leaking but I don't think that is always the case. I removed the driver's side mount and looked at it and it does have a date stamp of '99 on it so they are probably original. The car is a 2000 C2 w/74K miles on the clock.

Any thoughts or help?

Hi geoffbaltz,

I'm very interest on installing the same setup that you have SPEC Stage 1 plus the AASCO LWFW on a '02 996 C2. What has been your experience after the installation?, Did your ride improved?, Still noisy?, How does it behave on the street?, Compared to OEM which one do you prefer?. Did you had to specify on your order the sprung clutch, or all of them come that way?, What is included in the clutch kit (throw out bearing, etc)?

Any one has experienced the SPEC 1 clutch & the Fidanza flywheel set up in the street and on the track?.

I'm thinking on installing them on a '02 996 C2

I would believe the Steel LWF would by virtue transmit more noise than an Aluminum I know the current Aluminum units weight around 13 lbs which might make the modulation and driveability easier as well. If I am not mistaken the Auminum unit facilitates the exchange of the friction surface purchased at a fraction of the cost while the steel flywheel will have to be replaced as a total unit. Mine does not make as much noise, or I am hard of hearing, I also have a spring hub which was recommended by the shop that installed it.

Regards

Tony

Hi racing97,

Which setup do you have?, Price? :lightbulb:

My car is a 2003 996, 3.6 C2

This replacement started as a RMS leak repair when it was discovered my clutch assy was 80% worn.

When I replaced my complete clutch assy, including a LWFW flywheel:

Parts

Flywheel seal 997 101 212 00

Clutch fork update, 996 997 116 712 00

Ball pin update 996 116 716 02

Clutch clamp 996 116 741 00

Clutch seal ring 996 116 743 00

Clutch disc CU881861859

Clutch cover 996 996 116 027 06

Alm flywheel FLW106411

Clutch release bearing 996 116 080 04

This is not a single part change over. 6.8 hours labor

You WILL hear more transmission noise (a clackity-clack noise when idling w/ the clutch disengaged). The engine does spin up much faster. You will need to retrain yourself on how to drive the vehicle (short learning curve but annoying).

If you are into a stock vehicle and don't like noises, do not go with this change. If you like the motor spinning up faster and can swallow the cost, go for it.

Mookster

Where did you get your Alm flywheel FLW106411?, Is it made from Aluminum? Weight?,Number of bolts?, Price?, If it is not made from aluminum, why did you chose it?, any problem after installation?, your total parts cost?

I was looking for another option beside the wide offering of the aluminum flywheels (because of the noise that they make), then I read an article called "Flywheels - On the fly" on the europeancarweb, and it mentioned the big advantage of the Single Mass Flywheel over the Dual mass, that beside the increased performance, it made some noise, (but probably not that noisy compared with the aluminum flywheels), also mentioned that Porsche went with this decision for better performance in the GT3, I found that the 03-04 Porsche 996 GT3 Carrera RS has it, and that part weights 11.5 lbs. I

On my '02 996 C2, What do I need to replace my Dual Mass Flywheel for a Single Mass Flywheel ("RS" Version) (11.05 lbs.) ?

My car has 47000 miles, at this time my clutch doesn't slip or grab is only the sound that is making from the throw out bearing, just wanted an advise from the experts before going to the repair shop. Great advises! :thankyou: :cheers:

Have any one of you Guys changed the clutch to your 996?. I got divided opinion between 2 mechanics, one tell me that the flywheel can be machined & the other one told me, that flywheels are not machined that I need to buy a new one. Please advice. :help:

On a unmodified 996, which clutch replacement do you prefer?

Hi all,

I will like to have the advantage of the LWFW but without the rattle. Which will it be the right Clutch-LWFW for me to install in a '02 996 C2 that is a daily driver with occasional DE track driving? :eek:

Do you know, which is the grease that goes in the clutch power spring (helper spring)?

Silicone spray only.

Thanks Loren!

When is time to change my clutch, what do you recommend for daily driving and occasional DE track?.

Usually when the clutch wears out the pedal will get very hard.

My last Porsche had 135,000 miles including lots of track time - and it still did not need a clutch.

Great!, so the clutch is more long lasting than I expected. I think I will follow your advice, put some silicone spray on the clutch pedal area, and forget about the light vibration on the back, probably that is normal, since my car is shifting right, just the noise on the pedal that probably will disappear. Thanks!! :renntech:

Do you know, which is the grease that goes in the clutch power spring (helper spring)?

Silicone spray only.

Thanks Loren!

When is time to change my clutch, what do you recommend for daily driving and occasional DE track?.

Do you know, which is the grease that goes in the clutch power spring (helper spring)?

Is the noise down by your foot - or is it back by the engine?

Hi Loren,

I hear it strong below the car, almost below where I seat, that happens only when I use the clutch, like something metallic that needs grease.

The clutch system is hydraulic - so there is nothing but fluid below where you sit.

Do a search here for oiling or lubricating the clutch spring on the clutch pedal.

I tried my car doing a strong sprint from Zero, and no problem at all, it shifted to all gears up & down. Driving slow I hear a dragging noise from the clutch pedal, every time when I push it and release it, also when I arrive to my home, I ask my Son to push the clutch and only when the pedal was in, I heard a noise from the clutch in the engine compartment.

Might be the release bearing. (throwout bearing)

Apparently the main source of noise is the Clutch power spring or helper spring that needs to be greased (located behind the clutch pedal), but yes the clutch is beginning to make some vibration, does not give any problem while shifting. Do you think that since is not grabbing or slipping, I will be able to run on my next DE, and just wait for the clutch to wear more for me to change it?

Do you recommend any stage 2 or 3 clutch with or without HP Pressure plate for daily driving and occasional DE track driving?

Is the noise down by your foot - or is it back by the engine?

Hi Loren,

I hear it strong below the car, almost below where I seat, that happens only when I use the clutch, like something metallic that needs grease.

The clutch system is hydraulic - so there is nothing but fluid below where you sit.

Do a search here for oiling or lubricating the clutch spring on the clutch pedal.

I tried my car doing a strong sprint from Zero, and no problem at all, it shifted to all gears up & down. Driving slow I hear a dragging noise from the clutch pedal, every time when I push it and release it, also when I arrive to my home, I ask my Son to push the clutch and only when the pedal was in, I heard a noise from the clutch in the engine compartment.

Is the noise down by your foot - or is it back by the engine?

Hi Loren,

I hear it strong below the car, almost below where I seat, that happens only when I use the clutch, like something metallic that needs grease.

Hi,

My 996 has now 47000 miles, and began making a scratch noise when I push & release the clutch :cursing: , it doesn't have any problem related to shifting, same easy shifting like before, just the noise. Please advice.

Has anyone tried the 997 Carrera S swaybars on a 996 C2?, How does it behaves?, Which are the sizes? :eek:

Hello,

First let me introduce myself and thank this list for helping with my new 996 purchase. Just purchased a 1999 C2 coupe with 44K miles (couldn't resist the prices these days) from a local Porsche dealer. I drove many cars in my search for a 996 and found this one to be the best, so I bought it. I know the '99 may be a bit of a roll of the dice in the engine department but a PPI and the collective wisdom gleaned from this and other forums leads me to believe it is a good car. I hope it holds up.

Anyway, on to my question:

After a week of driving, I am feeling some strange things from the front end of this car. I read as much as I could on this forum about "floaty" front ends on US spec 996's and wonder if this is what my car is doing. The car gets sort of "darty" or "floaty" in moderate to high speed corners. Particularly on heaved or rolling pavement. I can actually feel the steering wheel pull a bit in my hands and the car can get a little squirrely. It will do it in a straight line as well especially above 80mph if there are rolls in the pavement. This gets progressively worse with higher speed. If I lighten up my grip on the wheel and try not to react to these motions, it helps a bit but it really seems to me this is not right.

The car was aligned by the Dealer before I bought it. I can only assume that it is in spec. Steering is nice and tight and it doesn't feel like there are any worn parts in the front end. It has 18" factory wheels with new tires that are the correct size. Tire pressures are correct. I wonder if this is normal for these cars or is there something amiss. I am considering Putting a ROW M030 setup on it but I'm not sure I want the extra ride harshness just to resolve a problem that could be something else. If this is "normal" I will definately put the 030 on on though.

I have owned 2 other 911s (78 SC and 87 Carrera) neither of those drove this way, but the half dozen or so other MK1 996s I test drove did seem to exibit this behavior to some degree.

Any thoughts? Any MK1 experts near me (Philadelphia, USA) willing to drive it and give an evaluation or let me drive their car to compare?

Thank you,

Doug Davis

Hi Doug,

I think the ROW M030 is a good option.

I also have '02 996 C2, I installed H&R springs and HD Bilstein shocks, plus a front lip spoiler from Xtrememotorcars for better aerodinamics, all of these improved the handling of my car, now is way more stable, and specially at high speed or in the track, my next steep will be to upgrade to the M030 sway bars.