SteveNacc

hi there, was wondering about getting some wheel spacers for my '00 996 C2...was wondering what size bolt pattern to look for and a suggested size spacer. 8mm in front and 12mm rear? looking for a the simple, slip on spacers. worthwhile upgrade?

Hi, I have a 2002 996 C2 and installed the 15mm H&R spacers, front & back. It looks real nice and no issues whatsoever.

any before / after pics Bill?

I believe the lines are clogged because water sat in the foam condesate catch reservoir just below the dashboard all night. Can anyone tell me where the condesate lines are that I need to check for clogging????

Thanks.

I found the source of the leak. Pic is attached of the area under the passenger side dashboard (US). You can see drops of water coming from a quarter-size part with a gold screw in the center. I removed the screw and then tightened it back but the water still leaks from that are, especially with the A/C running. It appears to me that a gasket or something should be there. Can anyone confirm that????

I too have a water leak on passenger side floor. 2000 C2 Cab. Just picked up the car and drove in some heavy rain. The next day my travel mate took out the floor mat to shake off and there was a approx. 8" x 8" wet spot. Definately water. I poured some water down the passenger side drain hole next to the battery just now, and the water flowed freely. I was hoping it was a plugged drain, but that isn't it. You mentioned something about removing the dash to get at another possible source. Is this something a pretty non-mechanical person like myself should attempt?

I also have a dash button (for internally locking the car) that is recessed behind the dash, so I need to take it off for that issue as well.

Thanks for any help!

"Oh well. By the way, if you are having trouble closing yours, it's a simple solution. You have the latch mechanism mis-aligned. Your catch is rubbing on the sides of the slots in the latch. Just loosen the 2 screws under the carpet cover and move the latch to the left or right and up or down as needed. You can use a flashlight and look how it will align when it's almost closed."

Newbie owner here (just drove my 2000 Carrera 2 Cab back from CA, this weekend but that's another post). When you say the latch mechanism is mis-aligned, what is the proper alignment before you tighten back the screws? Thanks guys, awesome board!

Thank you everyone for the feedback here. I'm in the market for a 99-00 996 (my first 9 series), and was almost deterred from

buying because of the nighmare stories. The last thing any of us wants is an unreliable vehicle, no matter what the make.

I spoke directly with a very respected independent shop here in Seattle, as I'm planning to have the car I purchase inspected there.

Mark, the service manager said here are the things he has experienced over the years. This shop only works on Porsche's btw.

Clutch- Count on a replacement by 50K miles.

Ignition swith- Make sure car has 2 keys and both work. Common for switch to go out and key can be removed and car will still run.

Coolant tank leak issues.

RMS issues, not especially common, but something to look out for (he said it was a $1000 fix.)

Driver side elec. seats, make sure in good working order, see's issues with them from time to time.

If it has the cassette player, very pricey to swap to CD.

Other than that, he had high praise for the car and engine. He said he see's them as reliable daily drivers, and if properly maintained have shown to be low maintenance cars.

You might argue that he has something at stake here, but others I have spoken with said he is a very straight shooter, so take it for whatever it's worth.

HMMMM

I think your mechanic missed the most important tests:

1. leakdown test

2. compression test

if *any* variance here... especially in leakdown test... walk away from it.

Also I wouldn't say that a clutch will only last 50k miles. My last clutch was at 72k and stilll had a lot of life. It just depends on how you treat your clutch. I totally agree with Pete on the leakdown test......

Thanks for the clarification. I didn't mention these important issues in my post as I was referring to the main issues that my (future) mechanic has seen working on the 996's. Of course the compression test would be done for the pre buyers inspection. I believe what his take was that he has not seen an alarming number of cars with this issue, or something that would say to him...major defect, count on this happening (bad compression) that seems to be a rather over riding theme here. Of course if this HAS happened to you, you will certainly be hyper-sensitive to this issue, and scream it from the rooftops, as I most likely would as well.

I'm just saying that it has not been a prevalant issue to THIS service manager, servicing many of these cars over the years. Again, for whatever it's worth. If you want to take the issue up directly with him, his name is Mark, and is at www.gerbermotorsports.com. He seems to really know his stuff, and I have seen his posts in here before. I have no affiliation, just as an interested 996 prospect looking for a clean car.

Thank you everyone for the feedback here. I'm in the market for a 99-00 996 (my first 9 series), and was almost deterred from

buying because of the nighmare stories. The last thing any of us wants is an unreliable vehicle, no matter what the make.

I spoke directly with a very respected independent shop here in Seattle, as I'm planning to have the car I purchase inspected there.

Mark, the service manager said here are the things he has experienced over the years. This shop only works on Porsche's btw.

Clutch- Count on a replacement by 50K miles.

Ignition swith- Make sure car has 2 keys and both work. Common for switch to go out and key can be removed and car will still run.

Coolant tank leak issues.

RMS issues, not especially common, but something to look out for (he said it was a $1000 fix.)

Driver side elec. seats, make sure in good working order, see's issues with them from time to time.

If it has the cassette player, very pricey to swap to CD.

Other than that, he had high praise for the car and engine. He said he see's them as reliable daily drivers, and if properly maintained have shown to be low maintenance cars.

You might argue that he has something at stake here, but others I have spoken with said he is a very straight shooter, so take it for whatever it's worth.

I have found a relatively low milage 1989 964 cab - 92000kms = 57500 miles. The cars condition looks good and services in log-book ok except for a 5 year gap in years 2000-2005. Appart from log book, there are no other service records.

Current (3rd) owner cannot validate service history so I need to assume that no major work has been undertaken.

If that is the case, what major work should I expect to to to avoid failure and get her back to a normal preventative maintenance schedule. Any idea of cost of these works?

Thanks

Do you mind me asking what you paid? I'm looking at a similar vehicle but all records, one owner and they want 25,600.00 Does this seem like a decent price? Anyone? Thank you.

When I asked at my local dealer a few years ago the standard price, car unseen, was $2,000. A pair of the new style top transmissions alone was $900. I do not know what the current going rate at my local dealer is. That is when I decided to learn how to fix them.

All 1997-1999 have had or will have top problems.

Are the 2000-2003 tops having these same issues? Seems like Porsche should have been able to get a handle on this.

The automatic top is cool, but maybe more practical to go old school and have us manually tuck it in when a little wind in the hair is called for.

Hi All,

I'm looking to purchase a used Boxter S, and don't want to spent over 20K.

I have a broker friend that can hook me up wholesale, but are there suggestions for which year I should consider

(right now I'm thinking 02') based on reliability issues, etc?

Thanks for any help.