fdorn

Wow!!!

sensational - thanks for posting JP

Thank a million for posting this -

OK gents, just to update you:

I had the car into OPC to have new clutch fitted and also look at the hesitation problem.

As already mentioned it was occurring at pretty much bang on 1500 RPM. It was most noticeable in 1st gear, and could be a quite savage hesitation sometimes , and slightly less noticeable at other times. It also occurred in 2nd and 3rd gears at times , but was not as savage.

Initially OPC stated that it was not an issue as all Turbo's have this hesitation and it was down to the Variocam. I knew this was "Bull" so persevered with them.

They then reported that they had found the problem and it was a loose intercooler hose , however when I later to spoke to the Service manager he informed it was actually a loose Turbo pipe. After getting the car back , it was a different beast. The hesitation had gone and it was smooth to drive for the first time, and I was grinning from ear to ear. However, I have since covered around a 1000 miles and I have noticed a very slight hesitation again at around 1500 RPM , but it is very very slight.

The car has been back into OPC since to replace an idler pulley ( bad bearing ) and I asked them to again check for the hesitation. They say they have checked the tightness of all intercooler hoses , run diagnostics and have come up with no problems. I have also replaced the MAF with a new item myself just to be on the safe side. But there is still a very slight hesitation. I know there must be something else causing this , and it may take some time to get to the bottom of it, however compared to the way it was I can certainly live with it for the foreseeable future.

Appreciate if anyone else has any input to try and find another possible cause. But maybe what I have mentioned so far may help some of you to start some fault finding.

I have an 01 with 70k miles. I have noticed this same issue between 1700-2000 rpms. No faults. It seems to happen more often when the car is cold. It doesn't happen all the time. Plugs, coils, new MAF did not fix my problem.

willmac996 - can you please provide more detail on what 'loose intercooler pipework' means when you have it.

I would be hopelessly lost if I hadn't run into you on these and other boards!!!!!!

Great post jp

Thanks Frank. Hope this is useful....

Great post jp

Preparig to put a clutch into my 99TT 2001. I have flashed my car and have some other power additives (bolt on) and can tell my clutch is not gonna last much longer with new driving style. With increase in HP and boost I am looking at RS clutch from suncoast. There name is mentioned frequently and seem reputable. Anyone have one of these clutch packages installed or have a suggestion on what clutch to purchase which works reliably for day to day street driving and will possibl be a improvement on stock replacement?

Thank you :thankyou:

I have the clutch package from Kevin (Ultimate)...sachs stage 2 GT3RS with LWFW....

+1, I would call Kevin. I run his performance clutch (dual mass) and could not be happier with it or with his help.

here is the DIY I used

http://download2.firsttraders.com/996tt/swremoval.pdf

I have searched for some info on steering wheel replacement. I am intrested in putting aftermarket wheel on car. Is this involved swap? Does anyone have a brand the suggest that is a direct bolt on that they have used and recommend?

thanks.

Thanks to Mark P. at MVP for a great day. Thanks for the ride in the Radical.

Car is just hooked up since Kevin@UMW spent a bunch of my dough (suspension upgrade suggestions, UMW performance clutch, and UMW flash).

Couple of events ago I blew a coolant hose and felt so stupid because Kevin told me to swap the hoses out to the 997 hose and superceeded 996 hose as a precaution. Neither of these were the culprit, but my shop told me they were going to be. I would not ignore this suggestion Kevin has made. One trip across a rumble strip could be all it takes.

Couple of pics - Anil took these...he shots some of the best pictures I have ever seen.

I took these - obviously a different quality of picture - I tend to go with the blurred, crappy look.

The guy who ran the event (Mark P.) took me for a spin in his Radical. 200hp 1000cc Kawasaki engine from a Hayabusa. Curb weight - 1000 lbs.

Godzilla

One of the nicest looking M3's I have ever seen

Roush Mustang

Some not so good pics of yours truely. I bought some package at the track and will post those when I get them.

Sorry to hear of your misfortunes - but, in my mind, its much more of a nuisance than anything else.

I will do whatever it takes to help you 'survive this bad time'. Speaking for myself - you have helped me so much with sooo many issues that I am not sure who I would turn to if you vanished from Reen or 6.

If you go the F40 route, I will be forced to folllow which will result in plunder the kids college funds and forceing them to eat rice 3 times a day.

Life is too short not to enjoy the car you drive. For me - the enjoyment far outways the expenses. :drive:

I have an 01 without x50 and the vin decoder says the 450hp for me. I remember this being discussed before, but I can't find the thread right now.

Just purchasing an 04 TT Cab - just plugged my VIN into the decoder on this site and it stated 450BHP. I thought the 04 TT Cab were 420BHP unless fitted with X50 pack. Is this the case?

Maybe it had the X50 pack fitted.

Cheers

Thanks everyone. I plan on getting it fixed in the next day or so. Just wanted to know the risks. Appreciate it.

My front wheel housing liner came loose(somehow) on the expressway yesterday and I absolutely ripped it to shreds. I had to remove it completely so I could drive. Just want to make sure it is OK to drive the car until I can get it replaced.

Thanks

Take a look at this also

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...telephone+power

There is key on power 12v for a phone module in the center consel.

It is not broken to fix and is by design, one of the advantages is to use the trickle battery charger. Hard wiring the detector into the fuse panel will resolve this.

Not much help, but this is how it is.

Hi guys, I have a 02 996 TT, my cigarette plug connects to my radar detector. When I turn my car off and lock the doors with the factory alarm, the radar detector won't turn off automatically even after few hours (cigarette plug still have power), so I need to manually turn it off myself each time. Do you know how to fix this? thx :rolleyes:

NICE!!!!!!!

I can smell coolant but for some reason i can not find any signs

of leak and my garage floor is completely

dry,i have checked car underneath (not on hoist) and i do not see any signs of leak.

No any signs of white smoke from tail pipes etherI have added 3 litres of coolant in last month and still no leak found.Please help if have any info regarding coolant leak on 996 tt.

Thanks a lot,Neno

My was from a worn old coolant resovior. No real sign of it until the end.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=28238

I have sent two emails with info on my 996 turbo to join the registry but have not had an answer. Anybody know the secret to getting on the turbo registry? Thanks in advance for the assistance.

Have also sent two emails and would like to know myself if anyone knows.

FWIW - I have it installed also and love it. Great compromise between a short shifter and 996 shifter. Highly recommend it. Its very inexpensive. I wish I did it the day I bought the car. Drive a 997 if you want to see what it is going to feel like.

Danny,

Is there anyway it could be a misfire. I had something similar (the whole back end shook like h$ll under full acceleration). The 1st time it happaned I got ABS/PSM and CEL light. After I turned the car off and back on the lights were gone, but still stuttered under full acceleration, most of the time with no CEL or ABS/PSM lights.

Changed my plugs and MAF the car rips like normal.

Did you read this by chance

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=24413

Hi, I very rarely use the performance in my 2005 Turbo S and have only done about 3,000 miles in it so do not really know what is normal and what isn't when it comes to using the power on offer. However, I opened the throttle fully last week in 6th gear accelerating between 100 and 120 mph and had to back off the throttle due to a judder that was felt from the rear of the car. Even though the conditions were dry I thought that it was wheelspin, but now I'm not so sure because it just doesn't seem right that a car with 4WD should do this. The only other occasion that this is happened is when I accelerated at full throttle in 3rd gear but I was less surprised about that because of the ferocious power delivery that the car has. The car has just had a clutch replacement and this problem was not apparent prior to that because I think that the clutch was slipping ever so slightly and taking the edge off the power delivery.

Does anybody have any idea whether this is 'normal' or if there is likely to be a problem with the car? For information the car will easily hold 1.0 bar boost but I'm sure that I have seen 1.2 bar indicated (may have been a pressure spike).

Thanks in advance for your suggestions,

Danny Tattersall.

Looks like coolant to me.

Check the hoses and water pump and of course the coolant tank cap.

Was coming from the coolant reservior - old and worn out. Being replaced under extended warranty...Thanks to everyone for input and help.

Take a look on the top of the engine , left side. If there is fluid take a look at the seal on the picture. I saw a leak lately on a turbo and replacement of a o-ring on this part was needed..

.

Thanks for the info and diagram. Tremendous help all of you. I will let you know what it turns out to be. I am running out of time before the next track day and forced to drop it of at the dealer in the morning. Hopfully covered by warranty, but needs to be fixed regardless. Would hate to get stranded at the track or worse not be able to run - or put someone else in danger cause of a fluid spill on the track.

Anyway, great forum full of great people with tons of knowledge....props to you all...

peace.

Looks like coolant to me.

Check the hoses and water pump and of course the coolant tank cap.

Thanks Loren and wvicary

Any guess what this leak is from:

I believe that pipe is the left intake pipe that is coming from the drivers side oil collection container.

The fluid does not look or feel like oil. I am headed to the track in a few day and wondering if I should take care of this first.

fool it into thinking it's normal!!

That is the part that scares me. I wouldn't mess with it. For a little more money you can get it done right (ECU flash) and not put your $28,000 engine at unknown risk.

I did had this done and have to say its the best money I have spent. I wish I did years ago. It makes all the difference in the world. Great instructuons BTW. I watched my mechanic do mine and you covered everything.

Enjoy...