fdorn

Remove the cover for the alarm blinking light LED the sun sensor is part of that assembly.

Thanks Loren

Anyone know how to replace or check the wiring on the sun sensor. I know it is located near the windshield on the center of the dash, but I cannot find any information on replacing it in the workshop manuals.

2001 996TT.

Durametric Instrument Cluster Fault Code 9124 - Short to ground B+ (something) not present.

Interesting. Thanks for sharing. I too start studying Durametric. It is a fine tool but there was too many functions and terms unknown to me. It will take me a while before I can handle this tool properly other than just erasing messages....

The Durametric is all about Actual Values and you need the mathmatical equations to get the answers that make sence.

For example..Boost Presure (I think anyway)

"Boost pressure of sensor" is an Actual Value in the Durametric and it is displayed in mbar. In my car, at idle it is 990 (this number will vary depending on how high above sea level you are - I think). The standard atmosphere (symbol: atm) is a unit of pressure and is defined as being equal 14.696 PSI, 1013.25 mbars (at sea level). 0 Bar reading in the car is actually equal to 14.696 PSI or 1.013 BAR (at sea level) so the gauge is a measurement above atm (the Durametric is a total reading). 1.0 BAR reading in the car is an additional 14.696 psi or 1 additional bar of boost pressure.

Under acceleration, if I record a reading of 1569 through the Durametric it needs to be converted to match the reading on the gauge in the car.

1568 - 990 (reading at idle) = 578 mbar / 1000 = .57 BAR or .6 bar on the gauge or 8.5 psi

I might buy Auterra Dyno Scan (even if it is a POS). It will display Boost Presure in both bar and psi.

Here is the Manual that has definitions starting on Page 50 (no idea how they map to Durametric):

http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/auter...dowsManual.pdf

Both PC software and Dash mount

http://www.auterraweb.com/dashdyno.html

Web site

http://www.auterraweb.com/

Parameter list (without definitions I believe)

http://www.auterraweb.com/paramlist.html

Demo version

http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/auter...wsSoftware.zip

If anyone knows that this is a POS let me know before I waste my time with it.

I did get a great explanation for this is case anyone is interested....

<<

The 996tt DV's are controlled by a vacuum solenoid thats cycled by the ecu. At high rev's, when you let off the gas quickly, the throttle plate will actually beat the ecu to open the DV's.

This will cause a boost "spike" on the dash that will never reach beyond the throttle plate.

Tony EPL>>

I was messing around yesterday with a Durametric to see if I could translate the value it logs as Boost Pressure to the BAR reading on my dash.

In doing so, I recorder through Durametric and saw on my dash a reading of 1.2 BAR. Never saw that before (not even a spike). My sustained boost seems to be .7 to .8 which I believe is normal on a stock 996. I am just wondering if this type of spike is normal, can it do damage, does it have anything to do with 80 degree temps.

Car has 57k miles, new plugs and new MAF. Completely stock. Running better than it ever has....

I was messing around yesterday with a Durametric to see if I could translate the value it logs as Boost Pressure to the BAR reading on my dash.

In doing so, I recorder through Durametric and saw on my dash a reading of 1.2 BAR. Never saw that before (not even a spike). My sustained boost seems to be .7 to .8 which I believe is normal on a stock 996. I am just wondering if this type of spike is normal, can it do damage, does it have anything to do with 80 degree temps.

Car has 57k miles, new plugs and new MAF. Completely stock. Running better than it ever has....

I wish it never happened because now I have to flash the car...totally addicting.

That's your vacuum line to the top of one of yoru diverter valve....those doofs disconnected it then didn' t connect it up again....then they charge you for it!! Go back and give them hell.....I hate it when these people screw things up and don't replace hoses, clamps, reconnect wiring....

Thanks for the repsones in both places.....as for taking it back...I think they should make a house call...

I am chalking this up to an honest mistake...The guy does great work.

P0410 and P1411 have nothing to do with your MAF.

Did you disconnect the air pump?

Check the fuse and wiring connector on your secondary air pump.

Loren,

Understand that those codes have nothing to do with MAF, but I watched these guys do an inspection on my car and they were testing these lines (the one that is disconnected in the picture) for leaks (I guess). I am assuming they never reconnected it and that is what is throwing these codes. I am just not sure where to plug it back into.

Here is anoteher pic

I just replaced my MAF a few days ago and within 5 hours had a CEL with P1411 and P0410 codes. I have searched and gone through ever post related to this. In doing that, I noticed something that just didn't look right. Pics attached.

Can anyone tell me what this small hose is and if/where it needs to be attached? Could this be the cause of those codes? Would this cause the car to go into limp?

the 997 Shifter is still my best and cheapest mod!

I just had this done and I have to agree. 1000 times then the 996. Perfect throw and very direct. Can't wait to try it out on the track.

You should try this stuff if the smoke smell is really strong.

http://www.naturesairsponge.com/

I have a 98 Audi A6 winter beater that just stunk like hell. I couldn't stand it. I wiped down the interior completely with vinager. Put one of there for 2-3 weeks. smell is gone.

2003 TT stock, Tiptronic- After a hard acceleration (.5 or above) followed by rapid deceleration (hard breaking) the car will missfire/cut out to the point of almost dying, after a short period of this it (10-20 seconds) will resume normal operation. No codes are being thrown, I had my service guy address this 5 months ago by replacing the Fuel Pump, it seemed to fix it initially but only for a short period of time becuase now it is happening again, not quite as much as before but still happening. Any suggestions would be welcome, I need to bring it back in to the guy who fixed it the first time as the fuel pump and work is warranted for a year but thought I would see if anyone has any suggestions prior to this.

Thanks

I have an 01 TT with 55,000 miles on it. About 2 months ago, under heavy acceleration (.5 or above), the car would misfire. The whole car would shutter like hell and the the power would cut off. The first time it happened my ABS/PSM and engine light went on. After 20 seconds the all went off but the dash was still saying 'go to the nearest service...'. It was a misfire on cylinder 1. When I drove it normally it was fine.

Dealer (Napleton Porsche Chicago) replaced the plugs and the car absolutly drives like a different car. Under heavy acceleration I see .9 boost (which I can't remember ever seeing). It absolutly SCREEMS. It made all the difference in the world.

I let you know, my stutter is under heavy acceleration/boost (above .5) right around 3500-4500 RPM. My car has 56,000 miles on it and I track it as often as possible. I am sure its MAF sensor, spark plus, and/or a air leak. It is perfectly fine when driving normal and like I said, the CEL is off.

Dealer replaced spark plugs and it blisters again under heavy boost....so far so good.

I bought an extended warrenty from EasyCare through Napleton Porsche in Chicago. I paid $3,000 for a 3 yr 30k miles. I bought it when my car had 43K miles. Gold package. Covers everything - Well worth it.

I let you know, my stutter is under heavy acceleration/boost (above .5) right around 3500-4500 RPM. My car has 56,000 miles on it and I track it as often as possible. I am sure its MAF sensor, spark plus, and/or a air leak. It is perfectly fine when driving normal and like I said, the CEL is off.

did you read through this...

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=22132

I have an 01 turbo and this started last week. My CEL went on for about 10 seconds and then self-corrected. It still hesitates/stutter/misfires under high boost. You really need the codes. I taking the car next week and will let you know what they tell me.

http://durametric.com