Elliottc26

Sorry, but I need to know: I've had my 2003 for 2 months, 37000 miles and is spotless. Runs great, looks great, Porsche serviced with no documented probs. I"m 2nd owner.

So I come here daily and read the terrifying stories of dropped valves, cracked blocks, astronomic service etc and I am wondering if I shouldn't just dump it and buy back my Miata.

Is it because people primarily post problems here? Or is it because this thing is going to break?

2003, 6 years, 139,000 miles...never had an issue with the engine or performance. Regular maintenance. Best car I've ever owned...

Bill B)

Must admit, the fun and exhileration of driving a Porsche far outweighs the cost of maintenance...even though I have spent a good £2000 in teh past 12 months, for 93K on the clock, not too bad...absolutely love it!

BTW, Porsche say do not rev above 5000 or may cause engine problems...

P0134 Oxygen Sensor Ahead of TWC, Bank 1 – Interruption of Signal

Potential causes:

– Wiring harness

– Oxygen sensor

– DME control module

Did you check the wiring harness?

Was the right sensor changed?

Yes, right sensor was changed...lost code P1126 (if I remember code right?!)...P0134 only code i get...well, will either be wiring harness (nothing dodgy apparent) or DME then..sigh...any money its the DME!

Never straight forward this...any checks I can do that do not require much messing about?

I had the 02 sensor replaced and the ECU is still throwing out this code:

P0134 - 02 sensor - interruption of signal

Would this be due to the MAF being unplugged at present? That's what i am thinking...

Yes you can, E-Gas engines have only one electric connector on the throttle body and no cable. ROW 3.2 litre engines are E-Gas.

Ah, I wondered about that...

Can you tell if your Boxster has E-Accelerator or not just by looking?

Hi,

I would like to have some advise on how improving the engine sound on a Boxster 98.

1- Is a performance air intake improve sound or only perf ?

2 -have you some suggestion on a muffler ?

3- i bought this header on ebay :

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=270328380132

Any feedback on those aftermarket header ?

thank you for your time.

Check these out for some ideas...

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=zv_ljlNOe7M

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=KzEcEUt_aB8

Really it is the last part of exhaust for sound...high flow manifolds/headers allow more gases to escape the engine quicker allowing new air in...therefore, more HP...I fitted high flow manifolds and now get a deeper sound...???

Intake manifolds, or exhaust manifolds? And were those "maintenance" items, or upgrades?

Why does the DME need to be reprogrammed?

Exhaust manifolds...needed replacing so upgraded to high-flow stainless steel...

Thought MAF was new style, turns out was old style...

All the work I have had done has been maintenance...would also like alloy wheels refurbished (look knackered!) and am having new 02 sensor installed (again needed as one of mine is duff)...MOT due in April...also have air filter en route...

I believe that with the MAF unplugged the DME is reading the oxygen sensor values and adjusting the fuel/air mixture solely by that. If your new MAF is under warranty, I'd try exchanging it.

This IS my second MAF sensor from Sunset. I sent the first one back and am still out $$$ till Bosch refunds Sunset.

BTW: I did see 2 spots and only for one brief spot at 2 very different time slots where the Hot Film MAF went to zero. Idle values of the Hot Film MAF seem kinda high (24-37 range at 600-800 RPM).

Hot Film MAF is seen in the 200 range at less then 3000 RPM. I've no comparison data so I don't now if this is normal. I was up pretty late last night messing with this to no avail. Unplugged the MAF and there the car sits for yet another day...

How frustrating!! I take it your 02 sensors work perfectly? I think by now I would be seriously considering letting Porsche run a diagnostic and see what they think...

As I'm sure you know, sometimes things are not what they seem. I had what I thought were MAF and/or Air Oil Seperator (AOS) issues and they were neither one. The car was blowing a cloud of smoke on start-up and running rough.

It turned out that the oil filler hose that goes from the rear trunk wall (hooks on to the oil filler at the coolant reservoir tank and goes to the oil fill point on top of the engine) had cracks in the accordian section of this tube that were not visible. Oil filled fine because the cracks were on the top of this tube. I chased this problem thinking it was a faulty AOS and when I was under there fiddling arouind I must have cracked the oil fill tube all the way through because the next time I added oil it just poured onto the ground.

The filler tube was easy to replace and cheap. Car runs perfectly now. I'm not saying that this is your problem, just saying that these problems sometimes need to be chased around.

I have found that connecting the MAF, a new one, the car had problems with idle, acceleration...was due to a faulty 02 sensor so both cause an issue if one not working...disconnecting the MAF ironed out the problem...am having new 02 sensor fitted Tuesday

What were the codes? Only today will I have time to get to this.

Based on the graph I posted, I would think it to be more wire/connector related due to the rapid drops in voltage or MAF values seen. I don't want to event think about the DME. That and the whole engine wire harness are over $1K each. I am hoping to find an exposed wire rubbing against the car body or simply a bad connection at the MAF sensor itself. If not, I will disconnect the DME harness at the DME and reconnect. Did not seem easy when I was looking into that area last week. I'll also clean the MAF Sensor connector (connections) as well.

I had codes P0134 and P1126 all to do with the 02 sensor in Bank 1 (right hand side of car)...only codes I had...

As I'm sure you know, sometimes things are not what they seem. I had what I thought were MAF and/or Air Oil Seperator (AOS) issues and they were neither one. The car was blowing a cloud of smoke on start-up and running rough.

It turned out that the oil filler hose that goes from the rear trunk wall (hooks on to the oil filler at the coolant reservoir tank and goes to the oil fill point on top of the engine) had cracks in the accordian section of this tube that were not visible. Oil filled fine because the cracks were on the top of this tube. I chased this problem thinking it was a faulty AOS and when I was under there fiddling arouind I must have cracked the oil fill tube all the way through because the next time I added oil it just poured onto the ground.

The filler tube was easy to replace and cheap. Car runs perfectly now. I'm not saying that this is your problem, just saying that these problems sometimes need to be chased around.

I have found that connecting the MAF, a new one, the car had problems with idle, acceleration...was due to a faulty 02 sensor so both cause an issue if one not working...disconnecting the MAF ironed out the problem...am having new 02 sensor fitted Tuesday

Using the new MAF requires a PST2 or PIWIS to reprogram the DME - you do have access to one right?

Bank 1 on a Boxster is the right side.

Um, no access to PST2...I guess the old style is right then?! Starting to make sense now; although, new style sensor was removed...perhaps someone fitted the wrong part for the car??? Hmmm...

O2 sensor arrived today, so, will fit and see what happens...right side of car, ok...let's see

Thank you...

P0134 Oxygen Sensor Ahead of TWC, Bank 1 – Interruption of Signal

Possible causes:

– Wiring harness

– Oxygen sensor

– DME control module

Most likely a bad O2 sensor (especially if it has 93,000 miles on it).

You need to clean and or replace your MAF. You will not get a good air/fuel mix without it above 4000 RPM.

Ah, thanks Loren...I did replace MAF but it was an old style sensor...I have ordered a new O2 sensor and a new MAF "new" style...what side of car will it be (I drive on right side!)...???

I plugged in my new code reader today and was presented with the following codes:

P0134 - Oxygen sensor ahead of TWC, bank 1

P1126 - Oxygen sensing adaptation, lower load range, bank 1

Reader said: Fault: 00

Pend: 02

I am guessing this is a lambda sensor...??? I had to unplug my MAF as was causing idle and acceleration problems...unplugged, problem ceased..!

Any ideas would be gratefully received...many thanks

So far, over the past year, my car has had the following work done:

New Airbag ECU

Front and rear CV Boots

6 new tyres

2x high flow manifolds fitted

Mass Air Flow Sensor replaced

1x rear brake light

2x front light bulbs

New clutch

1x windscreen chip repaired

Work outstanding:

DME reprogrammed

Rear window repaired/replaced (split)

great car...high maintenance!

Six (6) new tires...I'm assuming two sets in the rear and one set in the front? How miles did you put on the vehicle over the past year? I've got an '03 (non S) with 138,400 and other than the bulbs and regular maintenance, I haven't had to do anything. I'm still running hard on the original clutch. I drive a mountain pass each day and drive hard...my tires have been pretty good too. ;)

Best car I've ever owned.

All the best,

Bill B)

Yes, was 1 set for front and 2 for rear...the S really rockets and i guess I drive too hard! lol I have done about 10000 miles in past 12 months...

I bought a poorly maintained '98 with a blown engine. Dropped in a used replacement with new O2 sensors, AOS, and spark plugs. And that's the extent of maintenance. I realize this isn't fair comparison, but now that I'm familiar with the car, I expect maintenance to be quite manageable. One has to look at Porsche as exceptionally designed, engineered, and manufactured true sports cars for public use. And because they're sports cars, when used as designed, require a different measure of maintenance from cars desgined to be driven and ignored. I also have three 928's which are often maligned for their maintence. I've found that if sorted out properly, they give far superior performance and reliability than most cars and do it applying very reasonable level and cost of maintenance.

I must admit, mine is now due new air filter, fuel filter, oil filter, oil change and spark plugs...

Elliiot,

I believe you can fix your problem by cleaning your idle valve. On my 996 it is on the left lower side of the throttle body and has a switch attatched to it. It comes off with two alan or hex screws.

It gets filled with carbon. Get some carb cleaner and get all the carbon out. Most of it will come out with some light taps. Get it as clean as you can. Make sure it is dry and reassemble.

I had exactly the same problem and RFM (a moderator here) suggested this fix. I took me about 30 minutes and the car idled beautifully. Also didn't cost me a cent. :clapping:

Good luck!! :D

I had a look at it today, seemed clean to me...didn't want to mess around with it due to the electronics! lol Thhink I need the DME reprogrammed to accept the new MAF as is the old style and the one which came out was the new style...???

I don't believe these cars to be high maintenance but they tend to be expensive to fix. Most what you listed is normal wear and tear.

I guess I am comparing it to my old "normal" car...maybe one thing a year! But, yes, have noticed the expensive bit a few times!! lol

Not to dissuade you, but I honestly don't notice a lick of difference between my rear windscreen on or off the car.

I do still keep the rollbar baskets in, though.

Mine rattles, really annoying!!

Well, spent a good 4 hours cleaning Throttle body...

Car now idles at 600 RPM and response is improved, only stalled once with revs dropping from 4500 down to 0!! LOL But, much better than before...

When my code reader arrives I will have a better idea if anything else is wonky...

Yes, It can be especially expensive to replace front cv boots.

P.K.

Clutch was most expensive...£1000!

That does not seem bad to me - the car has over 93,000 miles. Right?

Yeah, a little over 93K...

I noticed shortly after I replaced the MAF on my '01 Boxster my car started idling unevenly (a little under 50K miles on the car). From everything I read here, idle problems are often caused by a dirty throttle body, so I went through the steps and cleaned it. Idle problem solved - smooth like a new car. The job is definitely DIY - plan a few hours and lots of swearing in the process. The process is described here on renntech and elsewhere

You didn't state mileage on your car, but I suspect around 50K miles a number of unexpected wear items all start hitting in short order, like MAF, dirty throttle body, worn front engine mount, AOS, etc. (not to mention tires, brakes and all kinds of other wear items). At this point, I won't be surprised if a number of small things start going wrong in the next 15K miles or so.

Ahh, I was wondering about throttle body; but, I guess its worth a shot. May have a go today and see what happens...

My Boxster has done 93000 miles and, yes, have had a few things needing attention over past 12 months!! lol

Will post on this thread with results later on. Thanks...

So far, over the past year, my car has had the following work done:

New Airbag ECU

Front and rear CV Boots

6 new tyres

2x high flow manifolds fitted

Mass Air Flow Sensor replaced

1x rear brake light

2x front light bulbs

New clutch

1x windscreen chip repaired

Work outstanding:

DME reprogrammed

Rear window repaired/replaced (split)

great car...high maintenance!

With that kinda stalling... I am guessing you have a CEL. If you do, get it read and post it.

I have no lights on dash...all seems ok except the stalling...am going to try fuel injector cleaner and put in fuel tank...I don't have a code reader...am wondering if since changing MAF mixture has gone rich???

...have just ordered a code reader from Ebay...£29!! (approx $60) Bargain...

Ahaa...the DME probably needs reprogramming as have realised I replaced a new style MAF with an old style...thought price was cheap!! (£80 (approx $140)...will get that sorted asap...

Have sorted MAF by replaceing with new, disconnecting battery to reset ECU...Emission Control light is now out!! Hoorray!! On a short trip, power goes on smooth, no misfiring...happy result!! Except one thing...

Engine idle now 500 - 800 RPM (needle bouncing) and when RPM falls with clutch down, engine stalls...!

Oil before was just muck from the road...

So, how do I sort RPM issue? Can I do it myself?

Boxster 3.2S, Petrol, 6 Speed, 2000, UK based