raleigh5

i had oil accumulating in 1 of the spark plug tubes because of a worn/faulty tube O-ring. swapped out the tube with a new one and those white puffs at startup have now disappeared. good luck.

thank you for the replies. but i am pretty certain that the light is staying on because the battery was not disconnected when it shoulda been. only tool i have to check codes is the obd....so yes, there may be fault code(s) present. thank you.

the airbag warning light is on in my 2000 Boxster. there are no fault codes present. i had removed the steering wheel to switch out the turn signal / wipers control unit and shoulda read through the procedure from start to finish before doing so...because i could have avoided this issue:(

is there anybody in the north bay area who has the diag tool for clearing this up and would be willing to do so? i am in sonoma county and i am pretty flexible time-wise, feel free to email me at my forum user name at hotmail. or text me at 7o7 48o nyne for 1 one.

fyi: i checked the post for people who have the diagnostic tools....closest i found was san jose and roseville. i rarely get to those places unless travelling somewhere with the family.

thank you!

what does it mean to 'blow out the torque converter'? is that to say that the problem(s) you experienced were due to the tq going bad? if so, does that actually warrant a rebuild of the transmission?

F.Y.I. - I wanted to let everyone know that two months since I first posted on this topic, I ended up blowing out the torque converter in my tranny I will now be having my transmission rebuilt.

I don't know what to suggest, since looking inside a transmission is not cheap, but thought it might be helpful for others to know. I would be curious to hear any updates from others who were having similiar problems.

Btw, KBL Transmissions in Midway City, CA quoted me a rebuild with a 1 year/12,000 miles warranty for $2,700.

not conclusive...but the last entry in the linked post talks on having the inner cv joint taken apart and put back together. i went ahead and broke mine down to its individual pieces and nothing looks bent, broken, worn badly or out-of-round(bearings). still going to check with the indy porsche guy tomorrow i think. thanks for your replies!

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...;cv+joint\

I don't think there is any further diassembly possible. Generally diassembling this sort of bearing is recomended or advisable. Generally.

PK

ok, thank you. now, i do not know whether there is a problem with one of the joints then. it tapped off the axle with no problem. but as i has 'digging' out the grease, the inner 'claw' piece was able to turn to the point that i could easily have removed the large ball bearings. i can try and get a picture of this later today. so, now i am wondering if this indicates a problem and calls for replacement?

2000 boxster 2.7L tiptronic

the rear axles are removed and i am preparing to replace the cv boots and repack the cv joints with grease. question: how much disassembly is possible on the inner cv joint. is this all a single part that requires no further breakdown once removed from the axle? or is it possible/necessary to further disassemble the parts to adequately clean and then repack with grease? fyi: this procedure is being done as routine maintenance since the trans is now removed from car. not due to any problem with these parts.

i removed the tiptronic from my boxster recently. took me approx 20 hours to remove. this was my 1st time removing a trans from any porsche. though i have removed from other vehicles. next time through, i'd think it will take me 2/3 the time...so, about 14 hours. i am sure the pro mechanics can do this job in far less time. but still, i am going to say that i cannot see how others here are saying that the 14 hours they charge for the complete RMS replacement is out of line. maybe i am missing something?

thank you for that info!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triple_square

I am in the proces of removing my transmission as well. The bolt on my 1997 5 speed is a 10MM triple square also known as a ZXN socket. I bought one at NAPA...

It looks like a torx, but has 12 points instead of 6 points...

there is one transmission to motor mounting bolt that is different than the others. this is bolt #4 in the bentley manual. it is near tranny bottom on driver side. appears to take a torx bit for removal. anybody happen to know the size torx needed? largest i have is T-45, and it is too small. TIA.

2000 2.7L w/tiptronic

oh, 1 other question: is it necessary to use the porsche 'tool' alignment plate that attaches to the starter hole for removing the tc bolts? or is that just for making the process a little easier?

ok, sounds like a 'must do' to me. thank you all for your replies.

when removing tiptronic trans, part of the procedure in the bentley manual is removal of the torque converter attachment bolts so that it can be removed with the transmission. just curious as to whether the tiptronic can be removed if the TC is left in place? boxster is a year 2000 with 2.7L.

thank you for your very informative response and your encouragement. and i hope that torque converter issue never again rears its ugly head.

looking to repair or replace the Tiptronic in a 2000 2.7L Boxster.

couple of questions:

1. would it be possible( and straightforward ) to replace with a Tiptronic from other Boxster model years or from other Porsche models? if so, which ones and would the tip ecu need to be replaced also?

2. is it feasible for me to remove / install the transmission in home garage? i've done engine / trans remove & install 3 or 4 times before on Isuzu suv. i didnt set any speed records..but the work was solid. i am expecting delivery of the Boxster bentley manual vany day now.

thanks for any insights.

yes, $34.64 worth of filter :D

9/17/2009

got the call from the shop. the drained trans oil looks like crappola and filter was nothing to brag about. metallic flakes in the filter/fluid. sooo...gotta start weighing options on repair-rebuild, replace, or drive off cliff. the more i drive cars, the happier i am with my motorcycle:)

update on 9/10/2009

set up an appointment for 9/16 with the porsche specialist at Tillman's in santa rosa(for those of you familiar with it). they are going to check tran fluid level and read out fault codes.

in going over the issue on the phone, he "seemed to recall" a vacuum hose(?) involved in the Boxster tiptronic workings. and he thought that possibly this has come loose/off. but he was not 100% certain of his recall on this. so....anybody have any idea of what he might have been thinking of?

update on 9/17/2009

michael at Tillman's checked and found no fault codes. he is changing the trans fluid and filter and then we'll see what effect that will have. he found the old fluid to be very dark/maybe burnt. and he also said there was some 'noise' in the transmission. $520 for parts/labor to this point. got a feeling i will be needing to make some major decisions very soon. later:)

2000 Boxster w/Tiptronic ~62K miles

not checked or changed. i'll do that, or get that done very soon. see if the shop i take it to has the neccessary tool(s) for scanning the eng/tran codes too.

i test drove the car earlier today...going in a fairly straight line, the 'bang' was only occurring when going down into 4th gear(maybe sometimes on upshift to 5th). in fact, it happened most of the time when i clicked to downshift into 4th, regardless of the speed. hmmm.....don't know that it means anything...:) all other shifts occurred with no issues and felt smooth and drama free.

You need to check the engine and transmission ECU's for codes. Even though you don't have a check engine light you may still have codes present. Has the transmission fluid level been checked or fluid changed?

hi, this is first post on this board since i purchased my 2000 boxster tiptronic about 6 months ago. have read many articles and threads and i greatly appreciate the value of their guidance!

here is the situation with my car:

it was banging and clunking during shifts in auto mode. primarily during hard accel/decel. i read through posts on this site and this seemed dead on with the symptoms of a bad front motor mount. i have replaced the mount. it was, in fact, bad. rubber material greatly deteriorated and separated almost completely from surrounding base. after replacement, there is no longer the 'clunk' during gear shifts. so that issue is resolved. but it most definitely still has a 'hesitation/vibration' at around 1500 - 2200 rpm range. and what i mean by 'hesitation' is that it feels as though it cannot decide which gear it wants to be in. so it feels like it wants to shift, but cant quite muster the strength or something. or it will sometime shift to a higher gear, and then bang right back to where it just shifted out of. pretty pronounced and very annoying. and it will still 'bang' or 'bump' occassionally when shfting gears...even during 'normal' driving. it is no longer a metallic clunk. so it is different than before. but it is very noticable, even by passengers.

i am wondering if this could be caused by the rear motor/tranny mounts? or is there something else that is a more likely culprit? if anybody has a link to info on rear mount location/swap, plz post or forward to me. i will continue to search the site for this. thank you in advance for any further insites!

further details: car is 2000 boxster 2.7L tiptronic. purchased with 58K. currently has 62K. i did the 60K maintenance about 1 month ago(plugs, filters, oil change, fuel filter). after which, the clunking issue seemed to have disappeared for a few hundred miles....kinda weird, but it drove/shifted very noticeable smoother. prior to changing the rear mount, i drove with the rear service panel removed. i could see that the engine was 'jumping' as i hit the accel hard and quickly let off, or when shifting during hard accel/decel.