vfxbox

I am thinking about changing my shift knob with Momo combat series.

Momo seller responded back to me and basically as long as shift shaft is no larger than 14 mm diameter I shouldn't have problem.

Same time I am doing B&M short shift change over. Does B&M short shift will be compatible with Momo shift knob? Less then 14mm diameter?

Thanks.

All of a sudden today the convertible top cover seems to have broken. When I attempt to open or close the convertible top, the cover only swings open on the drivers side, the passenger side doesn't budge, and then the whole thing just grinds to a halt.

Looks like this is going to be the first extended warranty experience for my reign of ownership. Has anybody experienced this before so I can get a feel for what to expect?

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=8434

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=8502

Hope this will help.

Hello, I'm looking for a little help on a knocking sound coming from my 2000 2.7 5-speed Boxster. The car has 62k miles on it and just had an oil change about a thousand miles ago. The car runs fine but I have noticed a couple of times this past week there is a knocking sound once the car is fully warmed up. The noise does increase with engine speed, however it seems to come and go. Any ideas?

Thanx in advance,

Aaron

Oh, NO... that's how I lost my engine last year.. it started with knocking noise and eventually your engine rod bearing will crack.. Sorry to hear your problem..

Porsche knows this problem and they lowered price of engine from $17,000 to $7,000 with engine swap.

When you have oil change, check your oil filter to see if there are any scrap metal debris... if you see any metal particles.. it's your rod bearing is going bad.

Once you replace your engine with new one, porsche will give you 2 year warranty on the part.. and one year on labor.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?&...39;IMG_0014.jpg

Where can I buy colored face plates for my gauges. Also, my car is arctic silver with black interior. Any opinions on whether I should install the white or silver?

You can purchase from http://www.nrauto.com

A '98 2.5 is DME version 5.2.2 and does not have e-gas. I think it was introduced on the 2.7 cars with DME 7.2.

There is great article about e-Gas for Boxster coming up next month issue of Excellence magazine.

Basically e-Gas or drive by wire model started in 2000 year model.

OK, so I'm worrying about stuff I probably shouldn't, but...

The one thing that freaks me out a bit about my 997 is the lack of a spare tire for two reasons. First of all, does the goo/compressor thing actually work? Can it really give me a tire I can drive on? And for how long? And if I do flat, will I be able to get the tires I want on the car in a reasonable time at a halfway decent price, or am I stuck either without a car waiting for tires, or paying way too much. This car is my daily driver, so that is I'm sure at least part of why my concerns are probably more than most 997 owners. Also, we've had buzzards luck with flats in the past 5 years or so. I'm actually considering ordering a set of PS2's from TireRack, and keeping them on hand for the inevitable, be it a flat or just time to replace them.

Comments? Anyone have experience with the goo?

I had all 4 tires changed in January 2005 from America Tire Co,. and I purchased with extended warranty.

All 4 tires are porsche recommanded michelin Sports PS2 and with in 1 year period, I had flat, bubble and blown out all 3 tires.. talk about bad luck... but each time I had to change, I didn't pay more than $25 because I purchased extended warranty. Recently I changed last 1 tire, which is the one never had problem with and still all four looks like brand new.. Not having a spare tire is scarly, but having extended warranty gives me peace of mind.

I have a 2000 Boxster and cannot get the top to work. I checked the fuse and it was not blown. Any help? Does anyone know which relay it is? I wanted to check the switch function by putting a multi meter on the fuse and see if it get power when I push the switch.

Is it completely not working? Can you hear motor or anything broke? Have you check micro switches just behind your seat?

Thanks for responding. Yes, I unlatch the roof, push the switch and the windows go down, but the top motor does not come on. I checked the B6 fuse and the fuse was good. I checked the voltage at the fuse and with the ignition switch on, I get 12v constant. I unplugged the double relay and plugged it back in, but nothing changed. I just downloaded the relay trouble shooting guide and will try that next.

May be this will help.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=5543

I have a 2000 Boxster and cannot get the top to work. I checked the fuse and it was not blown. Any help? Does anyone know which relay it is? I wanted to check the switch function by putting a multi meter on the fuse and see if it get power when I push the switch.

Is it completely not working? Can you hear motor or anything broke? Have you check micro switches just behind your seat?

vfxbox...I take it you have done this, since you developed this nice bracket. Did you put coaxials in the dash? If so, how do you like their sound compared to the separates?

Also did you change out the doors as well? How about the head unit? What speakers/head unit did you select and why? And after it all, was it as much of an improvement as you had hoped for?

Sound did improve over stock speaker, especially on high-volume sound I can tell big differences.

It's much more clear sound and since I am using Pioneer AVIC-N3 unit, it has EQ for many different settings. I went over every settings and it delivers target settings correctly. If you have EQ you can test them out and try on nature settings..

For DOOR speakers, I answered to many readers here and it's hard to imagine without sub-woofer.

Yes, door speaker turned out to be sub-woofer and porsche did sell some separate BOSE Subwoofer as an option which it goes between rear speakers.

If you remove/change your door speaker with either 5 1/4 inch speaker or component speaker you will lose BASS and I highly recommend NOT removing it until you find other Sub-Woofer solution first.

I purchase 5 1/4 inch speaker already, but it's sitting on my desk for that same reason.

Jinster's other work around on http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6617 did inspire my new adapter, but his solution has problem with rattling. I've tried his solution and did cut off stock speaker cup and installed speaker, then at high-volume it start to rattle because it wasn't attach to the speaker grill body tight enough. His work around had to remove all 4 screw tab and sit on stock cup did not hold speaker tight enough. I had to buy another set of 4" speaker then I had to come up with new design, ask people around in studio where I work. (Thanks Ross, studio audio guy)

After 3 prototypes and some other failure I come up with final version and option for baffle cup.

Adapter did work and didn't rattle, but because under the dash where speakers sat on big space is left out and BASS couldn’t come up as it should. So I had to use baffle to secure this area and make sure BASS will rise up.

You can try installing baffle on your stock speaker first and see if this will improve your sound quality. Then when you decide to move on with after market speaker system, use my adapter to install new speakers. No cutting, no permanent modification, just add-on and save your old part for future restoration. If you decide to sell your car, but keep your aftermarket audio systems.

:renntech:

Ok, I posted 2 pics, one showing the white part of the taillight that I am talking about and another so someone can do the photochop. The white thing I am talking about is the reverse light (only), and I was thinking about tinting it, either a light black tint or something like that... just very curious how it will look, maybe good, maybe bad, but it may compliment the rear nicely.

Thanx

Alan

vfxbox, that was not what I was talking about, but thanx for doing it because I now know that that looks horrible, above I described what I was thinking about. Thanx

Here is what would looks like after tint both images.

has anybody thought how it will look to tint the white stripe on the rear tail light? I'm just curious how it will look, if anybody can do a photochop it will be greately appreciated.

Alan

Is this what you are asking? i just did quick photoshop stripes on taill lights.

I see Focal 100KP is two seperate pieces, but still uses standard 4 point mounting screw just like any other.

How's this fit in Porsche/Nokia mounting grill with *little* modification?

Has anyone here replaced the crappy OEM speakers with another manufacturer's equipment that fits in the OEM spaces and uses the OEM grills? I would like to replace the speakers in my 03, but I want to maintain the stock look. I do not want an obvious aftermarket look...just sound. :D

Also, is there any reason why a 4" coaxial couldn't be used in the dash top positions rather than the odd sized 4"+.75" component system?

If anyone has done this kind of mod, I would be interested in knowing what make/models of speakers can be used successfully - and how much (if any) modification has to be done?

http://home.socal.rr.com/vfxbox/bracket/index.html

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=8780

i posted this over at PPBB, but i figured i should post it here too.

i've been having some issues with my 97 lately (88K miles).

-for the past few months, i've been getting dramatic hesitation upon acceleration when cold. never rev past 3500 rpms when cold. when car warms up, it's fine.

-have had 1123/1125 and 1128/1130 codes in the past.

-i've cleaned the MAF a few times which seemed to resolve the hesitation briefly, but it always returned. it is the original MAF.

-symptoms worsened over the last 3 days.

*first day, lots of white smoke upon startup.

*second day, lots of white smoke at startup and idle all over the place.

*third day (today), lots of white smoke at startup, idle all over the place, stalling, and upon moving the car, a muffled 'popping' noise similar to popcorn popped in a pan with the lid on, when driving the car up the driveway. (i pressed the gas, and it made a few pops, i pressed the gas harder and the engine revved OK with no popping noises, i let out the clutch, got to top of driveway and car stalled. have not started it since.)

i am planning on replacing the Air Oil Separator on Sunday. i'm also ordering a new MAF, which will be installed Sunday. i am really afraid to start the car again, and want to know if anyone has an idea of what is going on.

does this sound like a failed A/OS? failed MAF? anything else i should be looking at/considering? i read an archives post at PPBB that said the popping could be due to a dirty throttle body. i believe the heavy white smoke is most likely the A/OS, but i'm not sure at all and figured i would ask the experts!

thanks!

Bring your car to repair shop and replace oil seperator.

Last spring I noticed that my left side dash speakers were cutting our from time to time. As the season progressed it happened more and more, and each time lasted longer. One day it cut out completely. I swapped out the right and left side, and it seemed to be bad speakers. I purchased a pair, plugged them in, and all was right with the world.

Last week, I was driving, and noticed a whirring sound coming from the left dash speakers.. I shifted the balance full left, and cranked the volume a bit, and it cleared up. since then the whirring comes back from time to time, and each time I clear it the same way. Think this is just coincidence? of might there be an underlying problem???

Any one??

Does sounds like rattle?

Hi All,

I am preparing to upgrade the factory system in my Boxster, I already installed new speakers in the front, as well as a new head unit. My car came with the factory amplifier mounted in the front trunk and my hope is to tie into the factory speaker wiring that runs from it.

I read on a few boards that this will save a lot of headache as opposed to running new wiring, especially to the doors. Has anyone ever done this? Any tips or gotchas to look out for?

What about the power and ground connections to the aftermarket amp, is it a straight forward install?

TIA

~Mike

Only reason I didn't remove my door speaker is because it's not regular speaker. It's subwoofer instead.

You could test your door speaker and see if it is subwoofer or not by disconnecting dash board speaker and play your radio. if your still wish to remove subwoofer and install 5 1/2 inch speaker you can, but which means you have to relocate your subwoofer systerm to elsewhere.

I have been asked how i did the mesh insert, so i wrote up this procedure. Enjoy! JES

Boxster_Front_Bumper_Mesh_Installation.doc

Fantastic... looks great.. I am on my way to home depot!

I agree, recently I upgrade my dashboard speakers and I was going to upgrade my door speakers too.

But then after removing dash speakers and while testing.. realized door speakers are subwoofers... If I didn't test them I could a ruin my sound setup. Just upgrading my dashboard speakers did improve sound quality. next project, rear speaker... because there are non right now. :lol:

which speakers did you put in the dash, how much $$$, and how difficult was the install? just curious...

you can put any 4" speaker with custom adapter I designed, it sucks to upgrade dash speaker. Because porsche/nokia uses custom designed bracket and no speaker will hold it. So I had to come up with new bracket and I send it out to laser cut for me. you can purchase this bracket here in renntech special offer section.

996/986 custom speaker adapter/bracket.

i'm in sherman oaks, in the LA area. the stereo, amps, sat (for traffic and music), hide-away unit and iPod adapter all in and working! i can't believe it, actually, my first porsche and first install :) things that aren't 'done' are the speakers and sub, and the headlight terminal (thanks for that info, btw, szentej).

vfxbox; if you wanna come up at some point, that's cool. i may have it done by then, though, because i'm a lunatic and can't stop once i start. however, there's a) a chance that i won't be, B) didn't you recently install the same system? i'd love to hook-up and check out your install...pretty much anytime...except this weekend, because i'm going paintballing on saturday and snowboarding on sunday (glad i kept the '05 A6...great for the mountains).

Just send you PM.

Thanks every one, I've ask my repair guy and he will remove rotor and paint with VHT high temp paint. Also he will check each rotor and sand 'em even as well. All for $80.. not bad... :D

sorry, i don't know anything about adding door speakers, but i do question why you would add them instead of an excellent quality subwoofer.

i'm not sure which year your car is, etc. but i'm guessing that you do not have the M490 HiFi sound package which includes a 4x40 amp, and the door subs in addition to the dash speakers. so, in the M490 package the door speakers are only subwoofers. which brings me to my question again, why not just get a good sub and leave the doors alone? the sound quality would be much better and it would be much less of a hassle than tearing apart your doors, finding connectors, etc.

please don't take this the wrong way. if you really want to put door speakers in, go for it. but i just wanted to point out an alternative that may make you just as happy, or even more.

personally, i would get a good quality amp, dash speakers and a custom boxster sub.

good luck in whatever you decide!

I agree, recently I upgrade my dashboard speakers and I was going to upgrade my door speakers too.

But then after removing dash speakers and while testing.. realized door speakers are subwoofers... If I didn't test them I could a ruin my sound setup. Just upgrading my dashboard speakers did improve sound quality. next project, rear speaker... because there are non right now. :lol:

I noticed all my brake rotor are rusting bad, I took it to my repair guy and he told me I have to paint all 4 of them. Oh boy... I guess I have to use high-temp paint for this job, but what kind?

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

I am down to the last piece in my nav/a/v setup, and just need to plug into the headlight terminal. Since I have the housing out, for getting to the ACC wire, I'd love to just tap in there. I guess that it's so the display knows when to change from day to night. I'm so anxious, any help would be awesome. I have worked 4 days straight (calling in sick to work), with about 4 hours of sleep total. I'm having so much fun, who needs sleep?

:)

Thanks in advance!

np

I would love to help you out. assuming you are in So-cal.. right?

PM me with where you at.

did you have to remove the original rubber pad per the listing on ebay?

Yes, I had to remove rubber pad. Ruf, TechArt all requires to remove original rubber pad from the pedal.

Also you have to drill the pedal. clutch pedal is made from ABS plastic, but brake pedal is metal, require some force... but at the end, it's all worth it.

I took some video today, I almost burn my transmission... I can still smell it.

You will need Quicktime 7 with MP4 support.

Let me know what you think of sound.. it's much heavier sound than old stock exhaust.

Not too loud after 1000miles I put on it.

http://contact.nortonelectric.com/images/F...eed_Boxster.mp4