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ninsei

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Everything posted by ninsei

  1. Hi. I'm troubleshooting a problem with my 2000 C2 Tip. starter cranks but engine doesn't turn over. I remove the fuel input hose from the driver's side engine bay fuel rail and when I run the fuel pump (by jumpering the relay) a nice amount of fuel comes out. Put that hose back and remove the fuel rail return line, run the pump, not a drop. So fuel is getting to the fuel rail but not passing thru it/coming back out. I can't believe a foreign particle could've gotten in there cause this is past the fuel filter. I was thinking about spraying compressed air in there, but that's shooting in the dark. Any help is appreciated. Removing the fuel rail seems pretty daunting....
  2. Ok. those alarm codes are bogus cause they say "Not present". I just removed the hose from the fuel filter (going to the engine) and, when the pump runs, a nice amount of fuel comes out of the filter. So what does one do when the car doesn't start, it isn't a fuel problem (though I still didn't chk if fuel flows all the way to the fuel rails) and there are no fault codes?
  3. Ah. In the current version, it's not supposed to let you clear it.
  4. Hi. 'just got the Durametric software. I notice there's a button to clear fault codes from all modules except the alarm one.
  5. Is it under the drivers side seat? If so, how do I remove the seat?
  6. Ok. I removed the high pressure line from the fuel pump and jumper relay pins to make it run and pumps fuel nicely. So, now, the only way it can be a fuel problem is if the filter is clogged (changed less than a year ago) or a line is clogged cause I didn't check the fuel rail in the engine bay cause I dont see how to detach it without removing the coolant res. Durametric came and there are still no DME, Tip, or ABS fault codes. The only fault codes I do get are these, in the Alarm section: Description:Interior sensor faulty Repair Infomation: Repair Infomation:Status: not present Repair Infomation:Frequency counter: 2 DTC Count = 4 Fault Number:60 Description:Central locking limit position Repair Infomation:Lock not reached Repair Infomation:Status: not present Repair Infomation:Frequency counter: 4 DTC Count = 4 Fault Number:58 Description:Tank servo motor not energized Repair Infomation:despite relay activation Repair Infomation:Status: not present Repair Infomation:Frequency counter: 3 DTC Count = 4 Fault Number:33 Description:Interior sensor faulty Repair Infomation: Repair Infomation:Status: not present Repair Infomation:Frequency counter: 9 What do those mean?
  7. Ok. I bought the Durametric tool and there are still No fault codes in the DME, but the car doesn't start (that's just not fair). There are some codes in the "Alarm" section though. I guess the next thing I'll check is the fuel pump. But if it was the fuel pump, there wouldn't be any codes?
  8. any ideas on what could cause this? One thing I didn't try yet was to remove the fuel return line from the fuel rail, run the pump, and see if fuel spirts out at a reasonable rate. But since I can actually hear the fuel pump running, does anyone still think this is fuel related. My standard OBD2 reader says no fault codes, but I'm thinking of buying durametric cause I can't believe something like this wouldn't register any codes.
  9. I just checked the fuel pump relay and it works fine, 12 volts is getting to it and it closes pins 30 and 87 when ignition key is turned. Now, after I jump pins 30 and 87, and I let the fuel pump runs for a few seconds (car still doesn't start), then I stop it and remove the gas cap and I don't hear that hissing sound. Should I? I'm confused cause the fuel pump *sounds* like it's running fine.
  10. Also: when I put the key in the ignition I do hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds. If I remove the fule pump relay and jumper two pins I hear the fuel pump continue to run. So now I'm totally confused and have no clue what could be causing this.
  11. Hi. i have the repair manuals and I know where both relay locations are (under dash and behind left rear seat). But is there a diagram showing what each relay is for? Thx. For my 2000 C2 Tip.
  12. battery is good. I replaced the fuel filter about a year ago. difficult to see if ABS or PCM lights are on cause the car doesn't really start. but I wouldn't think that could cause the car not to start.
  13. Hi. on my 2000 996 C2 tiptronic: I was driving out of my driveway, went two blocks and the car stalled. Every time I try to restart, the starter turns and I may get a few sputters (RPM meter goes up a little), but then it stalls right away. i have half a tank of gas. I don't have any Prosche specific diag tools but my normal OBD2 reader shows absolutely no fault codes. Any ideas on the next steps to diagnose? I guess it could be the fuel pump or fuel pump relay (just a guess)? I checked the fuel pump fuse and it's fine. Any help is appreciated.
  14. Hey that sounds funny ;-) I see some posts about a 3M clear bra. 'wondering if there are any online retailers that sell it for 996s at a good price.
  15. Hi. I have the tan interior and the coating is peeling on some of the plastic panels. Is there a known touch up paint that matches?
  16. Hi. on my 2000 C2 Tip? I see the muffler pipe bypass in the DIY section but that's proly really loud.
  17. Hi. On my 2000 C2 Tip, shifted moved all summer, fall, on cold days this winter, I notice a definite "bump" sound and lurch on many shifts?
  18. Hi. I think I hear a creaking noise from under there and I wanna see if there's a stress bar or some other metal rubbing under there? Do I just use force and pull up the cushions, then peel back the carpet?
  19. Thx. There is also a diagram that explains it all in the "Service Information Book", available to members.
  20. Hi. I just changed to Castrol Syntec 5w-40. 'did a search ('should've done that before), lots of good info. I think my sender is fine though.
  21. Hi. Owners manual says that on a warmed up engine at 5000 RPM, oil press should be about 3.5 bar. mine never drops below 4.75 bar, unless RPM drops below 2000 RPM.
  22. hi. Just replced Cyl 4-5-6 oil extraction pump cause the old one was leaking. Now my oil pressure seems higher than normal (or is it my imagination): engine at normal operating temp, revs at a steady ~3K RPM, pressure gauge stays at ~4.5. I thought is would normally be at about ~3 at that point. 'wondering if the new pump is defective, or if that thing has nothing to do with oil pressure.
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