nghiaho58

Replacing Switch on Transmission for Reverse Lights / Back-Up Lights

Replacement Parts:

1. SWITCH, BACK-UP, part number 996.606.103.01 (This is the correct part number for my '99 911 Carrera 4. Check with your local dealer to confirm the correct part number for your car.) (Cost at my dealership on 21 Oct 2005: $8.16 + tax)

Tools Required:

1. 19mm box-end wrench

2. Medium-sized flat-blade screwdriver

Procedure:

1. If you are working under your pickup or SUV (and the wheels are still on) and the jack breaks or your stands slip, at least there is enough space for your body under that vehicle when it comes crashing down. Under your Porsche, there is no room for you unless you are only 3.6 inches thick. If the jack fails or the stands slip and the car falls, you will either die, or at least be crapping in a bag for the rest of your life. So lift the rear of the car up in a very SAFE and STABLE manner. I recommend the use of ramps, as shown in the picture below. Note how the front wheels are chocked, the ramps are super-sturdy and have stop blocks at the ends, and the car is in gear with the handbrake very tightly engaged.

2. Locate the reversing light switch on the portion of the transmission that is furthest forward in the vehicle. The switch is mounted in a hole in the transmission housing that faces directly up, and has a two-wire snap-on connector. (This is the location for a '99 911 Carrera 4 with the 6-speed Getrag transmission; your car may be different. Regardless, it shouldn't be hard to find.)

3. Using a medium-sized flat-blade screwdriver, pry the snap retainer of the wiring connector open slightly so that the connector will come off. Note that you will have to pry the connector so the plug can slide out, while at the same time applying pressure to the plug to push it out. The green rubber portion of the connector is to keep water out of the connection area, but it also adds some friction to the connection. You won't have to push too hard, so just make sure you're moving the snap retainer out of the way enough.

4. With the connector removed, drop your 19 mm box-end wrench over the switch from above. There should be plenty of room and it's easy to access. The threads are standard, so lefty-loosey righty-tighty. You should only have to turn the switch with the wrench about 1/12th of a turn at the most to break it loose, it should come the rest of the way out very easily with your fingers. When installing the new switch, be sure the switch body is aligned with the axis of the hole! The switch body material is either aluminum or magnesium, so be careful not to cross-thread the new switch upon installation. The new switch should screw all the way in VERY easily with your fingers. Apply a small amount of torque to the switch with the wrench when bottomed out. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN the switch, you wouldn't want to strip the threads of the new switch. There is no seal ring between the switch and the transmission housing. When fully seated, the barb/emboss on the white plastic part of the switch (that the snap retainer snaps onto) should be facing the front of the car, approximately. (See photo below.)

5. Reinstall the wiring connector, be sure to push it all the way in so no green rubber boot is visible, and you hear the *click* of the snap retainer.

Cheers! You've just saved yourself over $100...

:clapping: Very well instruction. You must be a manufacturing engineer :D