Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
-
OBD II P-Codes - Paint Codes
- Registry
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
-
Posts
416 -
Joined
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Events
Forums
External Paint Colors
Downloads
Tutorials
Links Directory
Collections
Store
Posts posted by tholyoak
-
-
P0446 indicates that there is a problem with the activated charcoal filter / tank vent system. This is causing the mixture problems leading to the 1128/1130 codes. Possible causes for the 0446 code include:
- Purge air line plugged
- Tank vent stuck in the open state (vacuum continuously enters the tank system from the intake pipe)
- Activated charcoal filter shutoff valve is plugged/stuck in closed state
- Flow resistance of the activated charcoal filter is too high (filter deformed/plugged)
- Pressure sensor closes incorrectly (polarity reversal)
The factory manuals have a diagnosis procedure to determine and remedy the cause.
-Todd
-
On all of the 944 cars, the ZZZ number is on the firewall under the hood. The actual VIN is on the drivers windshield post. These differ because the chassis were built before the destination country was known so on north american cars, the chassis code (the ZZZ number) differs from the actual VIN.
-Todd
-
With a new DME, the old DME code and immob. codes are justi zeros. The 'old' code represents the codes currently in the DME you are trying to program. The new DME and immobilizer codes are what you want it to be, in your case, the codes to match the DME you are replacing. Without the dme programming and immobilzer codes for a used dme to enter as the old codes, you can't reprogram a used (previously coded) DME.
-Todd
-
Yes, they are simply 12V actuated solenoids. Send me a pm if you want to discuss further.
-Todd
-
Depends on the year of your car, Dharn55 is correct for a 3.4 motor, with the switch to vane adjustment on the 3.6-on motors, they are on the opposite ends.
-Todd
-
All the specs porsche gives for cam timing are relative to the crank not the actual rotation of the cam itself. The actual advance of the cam in an early motor is only 12.5 degrees of cam timing. It is 25 degrees of advance relative to the crank. Below are some excerpts from the service manual supporting my claim.
-Todd
-
For some reason you are still insisting your cam timing is out by 12 degrees. As I posted above, measured at the camshaft the rotational angle of the cam is out by 6 degrees from ideal and 3 degrees from spec. If the radius of your cam ring is ~2", that means it scribes out a distance of ~12.5" in one 360 degree rotation. If you are out 6 degrees from ideal, that is 1/60 of 12.5" or 0.2", if we consider you are really only 3 degrees out of spec, that is only 0.1". I highly doubt you can eyeball this.
If your cam timing ring was indeed bent (an important point you failed to mention) and that is the difference between how you timed bank 1 and 2, acoms razor would suggest this is your problem as you probably weren't able to perfectly realign the tab.
-
Kanin,
Certainly sounds like the valve lift isn't being actuated.
The important part of your problem is you are using an aftermarket controller to actuate the valve lift solenoids. I would make sure that the controller is still providing the ground output when the maps call for solenoid actuation and that the other terminal on each solenoid is getting a constant 12V. You can verify the solenoids are working by simply applying 12V across them and listening if they click.
-Todd
-
Camshaft position 1 deviation -12.15
Camshaft position 2 deviation -02.45
These are adaptation values. The range for these values should be +/- 6 degrees. The thing to keep in mind this is 6 degrees at the crank, so 3 degrees at the cam. So your bank 1 cam is out by ~6 degrees.
Actual angle for camshaft bank 1 .1 (at idle) 25.94 (at 2,000 RPM)
Actual angle for camshaft bank 2 .3 (at idle) 24.74 (at 2,000 RPM)
This is what the motor thinks the actual cam angle is based upon the tab on the cam passing the Hall sensor on the head and the adaptation values.
These actual angles should be ~0 with variocam off and ~25 with variocam on. From these values you know that the variocam actuators are fine (as long as you get close to 0 with them off). You have an issue with the relationship of the tab on the cam with the hall sender. Either the cams are missed timed slightly or the tab on the cam is bent/damaged.
-Todd
-
Check out this and then make your own educated decision.
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
-Todd
-
IMHO the best muffler for these cars is the DANSK hotdog muffler that is a modified version of the long standing hotdog muffler from the 911. Great sound, no drone. That said, everyone likes different things and mufflers are a highly subjective item. I think the Fabspeed stuff is expensive but most Porsche exhaust pieces are. Having used the Fabspeed and the NHP parts, I would say that to me there is no discernible difference between them. Personally I don't like the short primary design of either as it seems they had one set of tooling made up for the catted headers and simply added a straight section to replace the cat on the catless version rather than designing a proper set of headers when they didn't have the restriction of the cat.
-Todd
-
It would help if you update your profile so we know where you are.
If your car is a European car it doesn't have a secondary air pump. Only the OBDII cars have this device and the secondary air injection.
-Todd
-
Not likely. Wayne at Pelican parts asked me to help him with the engine swap section of his 101 Projects Boxster Book due out this summer, so rather than rewrite an updated pdf I helped him with that.
-Todd
-
No, they are used on the trans end to lower the trans after you use spacers to lower the engine end.
-Todd
-
As stated by RFM, the gauge should work upon hookup. To read accurately it may need to be calibrated as suggested by Loren, but the gauge should function from the get go if installed correctly.
-Todd
-
Benny,
You don't want to use 986 headers as the port sizes are too small to match the ports in the 3.6 heads. Are you having custom ones made or are you just welding on larger cats and collectors?? All my conversions use 987 based headers and pipe routing. Typically I use headers without cats to get better primary design and the cats are located in the mid-pipes, similar to how the cats were placed in the early 2.5L cars.
Send me an email or PM and we can talk more about it if you like.
-Todd
-
Benny, I would assume you are using the 987 headers from Fabspeed. I really don't like their short primary design but they are beautiful pieces to look at. Based upon what I have read on exhaust fabrication for the 3.6L engine, I think 2.5" tubing is on the large side. The 3.6 and 3.4 from the factory use 55mm tubing. For ease of use, I like the pipes from Supersprint (55mm), although they are getting kind of expensive for a simple piece of bent stainless pipe.
-Todd
-
Sorry but you have it backwards. In the photo the line on the right is the fuel pump output to the engine. This car has a returnless system, so no return line from the fuel rails. The line on the left, on top of the round disc looking thing, is the tank pressure release valve. On the underside is a small opening that when the tank pressure builds it raises a disc and vents pressure through this line to the EVAP system.
-Todd
In that picture, the line on the left is the outlet, thar one on the right is a vent and should not be pressurized. The Bemtly's isn't clear, but I would assume it goes to the evap canister for emmissions control. That line looks to be used for checking the fuel tank pressure or checking for leaks. The evap canister is in the right front wheel well behind the plastic cover behind the tire. It would be worth pilling the whell and line to see if a hose is crimped, or something is amiss that would let pressure build up.. The canister is suppossed to vent the tank and capture vapors so they can get purged into the intake and burned. Something in your system isn't working right, you might also check for codes with an OBD reader, it's possible to have codes with no CEL. -
For a track/race car you could use a simple rpm switch to control the valve lift since you will be at full throttle most of the time. However, the valve timing on the variocam plus is 40 degrees total vs 25 on the variocam motor, thus you will need custom DME program to account for this along with the minor changes to fuel mapping etc. So no, you are not crazy and this is a good approach for a race car.
-Todd
It really isn't that hard that hard to integrate the 7.8 DME, just requires the knowledge. It makes sense for Boxsters because you can't buy a 3.6 or 3.8L Boxster. The costs involved really don't make any sense on a 996 as you can just buy a 3.6 or 3.8 996 especially if you are not doing the work yourself and have to pay labour charges on top of the parts cost.-Todd
Todd I just blew my 99' 3.4. It's a full race car and I was considering gpoing with a 3.6 as I have access to a just built Koni motor. Since it's a race car and I don't need all the accessories, etc. I'm considering trying it without changing the harness using my cable TB and intake. I would use a programable window switch for the variocam+, and program my ECU on a dyno for fuel mapping, etc. Am I out of my mind?
JRG
-
It really isn't that hard that hard to integrate the 7.8 DME, just requires the knowledge. It makes sense for Boxsters because you can't buy a 3.6 or 3.8L Boxster. The costs involved really don't make any sense on a 996 as you can just buy a 3.6 or 3.8 996 especially if you are not doing the work yourself and have to pay labour charges on top of the parts cost.
-Todd
-
You do not need to disconnect the lines. Take off the belt, undo the 3 compressor mounting bolts and slide it out as you lower the motor.
If you removed the actual aluminum bumper with its associated heat shield you do not need to lift the rear of the car as high. After removing the plastic bumper cover it is only held on by two bolts.
Also the transmission does not need to be removed before removing the motor, it is easier to drop as an assembly.
The entire procedure is laid out in the factory workshop manual. In my opinion, a cheap investment if you are going to be doing this type of work.
-Todd
-
The receiver is located on the ignition switch body immediately behind the dash opening for the switch. The key head must be adjacent to the receiver, so swap the blade (or pill) , it takes 5 seconds.
-Todd
-
Actually, the part number stamped on the hydraulic unit itself has 755, the rest of the number will be identical to the part number with 955 in the catalogue which corresponds to the entire controller (hydraulic unit and electrical 'brain'. They are not available separately from Porsche. Therefore the part number you give is for a a 996 up to 2001 without TC. I believe I have a couple of these taken out for engine conversions in the basement that I would sell for cheap but I would have to double check the part number on. Send me a PM if interested.
-Todd
-
You can't use the stock mounting plate on the trans for the 987, it doesn't mount to the 986 box, at least the one I have didn't. I can't remember if it was for a 5-speed or the 6-speed. Therefore you would have to fab up your own mounting scheme to use the 987 muffler or modify the aluminum mounting plate that bolts to the trans. You also have to modify the rear of the plastic fender liners and if your car came with factory litronics, the suspension angle sensor has to be removed. The stamped steel piece that holds the wiring loom for the ABS wheel sensor and the brake wear light has to be cut off and the wires secured in a different fashion to the shock body.
-Todd
3.4l swap keeping boxster intake mani
in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Posted
As you state, the 996 and boxster intake manifolds are designed differently. The boxster ones bolt to the heads directly, and thus will bolt to the heads of a 996 motor once the intermediate manifolds are removed. The 3.8 motors did away with the intermediate manifolds and like the boxster, now bolt directly to the heads. So as I stated above, yes the Boxster manifolds will bolt directly to a 996 motor, but I wouldn't do it.
-Todd