Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

NelsonMX

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    51
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by NelsonMX

  1. I would bleed the brakes again, and of course make sure you have enough fluid. I know what it's like to run low during the procedure!! Also, pump the pedal a few times as you do the bleeding. You will need someone to help you when you do this. On several occasions I have had a bit of air trapped in the master cylinder, and this may be your problem. I use a Speedi-Bleed with a two liter container so I don't or shouldn't run out of fluid.....

    If you have air in the ABS block, or secondary circuit as it's referred to, you would need the PIWIS tester to bleed it. I don't really think that's your problem though........So try another bleed, pump the pedal several times during the bleed, and remember rear right/rear

    left/front right/front left. Bleed the outer bleeder valve first on each caliper....

    Let us know how you make out....

    Bob

  2. 2006 Carrera S purchased used with AWE headers, cats, mufflers, Evolution motorsports intake. Periodically get P0420 & P0430 error codes. Usually self clears in a week, then comes on in a few days. Car does not seam to perform any different. Where should I start?

    Phil,

    There are a few options.... Have a look here http://shop.fvd.de/us/en/Porsche-0/997_TT_GT2-126/-/-/group/show/VID_25700397-VCD_98580036-gid_29-sort_4-display_5/Catalytics.html

    You should be able to find something specific to the CATS you have installed...

    Bob

  3. Hi all,

    I know the wipers have been covered quite a bit but I seem to have a slightly different issue causing a similar problem.....

    In my case the drivers wiper leaves an un-wiped streak in the center of the blade on the upstroke. The passengers blade leaves an un- wiped area in the lower area regardless of blade direction.

    Here is what I found: On the passenger wiper arm there are two 16mm nuts holding the arm on. The right one is loose. When I torque this nut down both the drivers and passengers blades work perfectly! No elephant sounds either by the way........ The problem is the nut loosens as soon as I use the wipers and we are back to square one......

    Just wondering if anyone has seen this on their Cayenne, and did replacing the two nuts and washers resolve the issue??

    PS I have tried blue loctite with no success......

    Bob

  4. Hi Loren.....

    No corrosion at any of the connectors. A lot of dust and dirt on the outside, but clean on the inside. Sorry, I should have stated, I cleaned the outside of the connectors before opening them, and I cleaned all connectors internally with contact cleaner before re-seating them.

    I haven't put any heat shrink on them as yet. I just want to make sure the problem is cleared, so I'll give it a week or two. I'll be doing an oil change shortly so I'll have a look then and seal them up when I do.

    Bob

    • Upvote 1
  5. So here's the update on this issue.

    I changed the battery as I had it load tested last year at this time and it was serviceable but about three year old and I didn't want to take a chance as this is my winter car. I had hoped the battery was the cause, but unfortunately it didn't solve the issue. The fan started up in high speed (limp home mode apparently) immediately. My temp repair was to disconnect the fan at the connector on the fan support.

    Yesterday I wrang out the wiring as per the manual with all grounds and voltages checking as per spec. The fan module was clean, with no signs of external corrosion. Unfortunately there is no real way to check it out further. For this fault the manual uses a lot of elimination processes. That is, connecting new units to ascertain serviceability....I didn't have a new units other than a temp sensor, which was OK.....

    In doing the continuity checks I had the connectors off for the fan, module , and the DME. All looked good. The only thing I did find was the module connector wasn't seated properly. When reseated the fan operation returned to normal. So, that was the fix for this problem........

    Brgds,

    Bob

  6. You may be able to open the glass part of the rear hatch. It is an electric release though so depending on your electrics problem it may not work....

    There is a button under the wiper arm mount when you press it the glass should unlatch. Once inside there is a square plastic panel at the bottom of the door about 3 inches by 2 inches that you can pry off. Once it is off you can use a finger to move the lever to the right and the hatch will release.....

    Hope this is of some help.....

    Yes I have experienced some Malaysian rains!!!

    Bob

  7. Hi all,

    I returned home after a 10 day trip. I forgot to put the Cayenne battery tender on before I left so I figured I may have a problem starting the car as my battery is a few years old......Anyway, it started right up.

    However, when I got home I noticed the rad fan was on, and on shutdown it continued to run. In fact it ran long enough to drain the battery. I put the battery on charge for several hours. Unfortunately it didn't resolve the fan issue. Next step was to buy a new battery. With the new battery in all was normal but as I step outside the car the fan comes on and goes off several times........I hooked up the Duremetric and the fault I am getting is P0460 short to ground or open........I checked the connector at the fan, the wiring at the fan module, and the connector at the temp sensor, but I suspect I have a bad ground.

    Does anyone know where the grounds are located for the fans? Or has anyone had a similar problem?

    In the meantime I have disconnected the rad fan connector to save my new battery......

    Bob

    Sorry, I should have added that I have a 2004 CS.......

  8. To answer your questions....

    Yes the catchment tank has been known to fail, that is, not hold pressure and leak....

    The tank cap has an o ring seal that can get cut and allow pressure and coolant out the overflow hose...The cap is not expensive do if there is any doubt change it.

    I'm not sure about the VW or Audi testers, but I used an Airlift 550000 which evacuates the system and thus uses the vacuum to fill the system. The idea is when you draw the vacuum it should hold the required setting, that is no leaks. This tester is fitted to the catchment tank cap so essentially you are testing the complete system for leaks....

    Hope this is of some help...

    Rgds,

    Bob

  9. Here is a link to an Audi service procedure....I know, not the same car but the procedure is essentially the same. In the article they change the filter and pan gasket. When I did my Cayenne I used a laser thermometer to read the sump temperature. The temp is important as if the temp is too low you will overfill and too high you will under fill.....

    http://www.audipages...nservicing.html

    For the filler I used a garden sprayer attached to the copper fill tube shown in the article. I also put a shutoff valve in the line so that I could control the flow during the fill procedure.....

    As Loren stated it is not a simple procedure but it can be done.....IMHO

    Bob

    Just one last note on this. I didn't touch the transmission cooler lines when I did my Cayenne.......

  10. It's my turn to install the hitch to my truck. I don't use it to tow anything, just use it for bike-rack, so I'm not going to worry about lighting (lucky me). Any way, I click on the links on the email trail to get some instructions/photos but I guess all the links are expired. Does anyone have instructions/photos for this after market installation? It's a '04 CayenneS.

    Thank you,

    Hi,

    I installed the Curt hitch some time ago. It is good quality. For the wiring I used the Hoppy adapter specifically for the Cayenne. Here are the instructions........

    Rgds,

    BobCayenne Trailer Hitch and Wiring.pdf

    • Upvote 1
  11. +1 on the climate and corrosion!! I find any of the cars I work on that are summer driven come apart very easy. On the winter driven cars it's a completely different story. However, it goes without saying' if you have to use any force you certainly don't want to do any damage. If you have to hit a rotor hard enough to damage a wheel bearing you are using too much force. A rubber mallet or a dead hit hammer shouldn't do any damage to wheel bearings....IMHO...

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.