TopGun2000

RL seems to provide better protection than M1 but it's not on the porsche approved oil list though...

Mobil 1 0W-40 technical data:

Viscosity @ 40C – 78.3

Viscosity @ 100C – 14.0

HTHS @ 150C – 3.7

Pour Point (Celsius) – No manufacturer data available

Red Line 5W-40 Synthetic

Viscosity @ 40C – 94.0 (Thickest oil @ 40C)

Viscosity @ 100C – 15.1

HTHS @ 150C – 4.6 (Shears the least)

Pour Point (Celsius) – (-)45

Went to the dealer and he said the front brakes are almost ready to be replaced and they they don't just replace the brakes, but the rotors as well. Is this necessary? Couldn't you just change the pads if the rotors aren't in too bad of shape? Thinking about doing it myself. Is there anything else besides the pads and rotors to buy? Like wear sensors or something?

front rotors get worn out pretty quick. you can measure the thickness of them to make sure if they are still safe to use

also need sensors + hardware kits

Well the leak came back (2004 Turbo - left side) and this time I brought it the local Porsche dealer for service. I also brought the service bulletin which calls out issues with oil leak from the seals from the turbo charger. The repair calls for the same repair I have before, new hose connected to the turbo charger and new seal. Since I had the same procedure, but not from a Porsche shop, they blame it on the last repair. So, I am going to do the same again and if it comes back, then they can deal with it and it will be under warranty by Porsche. The funning thing is that the tech and the service manager ordered just the hose, not the seal. When I went in today for the repair, the tech says, it's coming from the seal not the hose :unsure: t this is the issue but at least I am moving down the path to correct it. If it fails again then it is most likely the turbo. According to the Porsche warranty info, the turbo charger is covered under the emissions warrnty, which is 7 years in california. It seems like a common problem, but I have to go this route to start the process. This is typical only for the left side turbocharger, not the right side.

I am curious if anyone else has had this issue and how they fixed it. Some of the previous responses to this post suggested the diverter valve, which I may point out to them if this reoccurs. Please post if you have had similar issues.

Thanks!

Are you sure the emissions warranty would cover turbo related issues? I've just noticed there is a small oil leak from the passenger side turbo charger.

Update: not the turbo, just a small oil leak from the valve cover, should be very easy to fix

based on the advice on this board, you may not want to mix different brands of coolant with porsche supplied coolant.

I use this online parts catalog:

Porsche Parts

Very known problem

Some hints I got from workshop:

1. Check front cabling system (sometimes wires and/or connectors are corroded, which generates accidental faults) - there was a case they had to replace or fix wires on 3 years(!) old car, front cabling replacement is very expensive due to engine removal need

2. Check headlight connector (sometimes they had to physically remove electrical connector from the back of the headlight assembly and wired it to fix increasing distance between connector parts - then you have to pull it out slightly and disconnect connector before complete removal of headlight assembly)

I fixed mine by bending the mate pins inside the headlight connector a bit to get a better contact with the female connector

new parts are not needed

just use the blade as any other car and forget the remote until you save up some cash would be my advice...as i'm applying this advice myself:)

hmm... went to walmart but they couldn't do it

then went to the dealer they said they can't just cut the blade they have to dup the key and remote together...

oh well, too much hassle to remove the air filter box, i will wait for my new parts to arrive to fix the problem...

definitely caused by the mount kit and the back connector not being mated properly

i ordered parts (#20) 955 631 041 02 and (#23) 955 631 239 10

but i think your trick should work at 0 cost. maybe i should just return the parts.

Will replacing the bulb fix the problem, yes, necessary, maybe, maybe not. My problem included the left side bulb, turn signal, and high beam, not in that order and they would all switch off and on randomly. In addition, within a couple of days of left side problem, my right side turn signal went out too. The dealer diagnosed a bad igniter on the left side and replaced the part. The truck was returned to me with the beams and signals working, however, the left side high beam was still failing.

These problems began after a 24 inch snowfall which included a lot of bumping and bouncing through snow and ice.

When the headlamp assembly is removed and reseated, the electrical connector was failing to fit snug in the headlamp assembly when slipped back in and locked. Some of the connectors would attach to the electrical assembly just enough to work, the other side of the connector would not slip in snuggly and the high beam would not work (for example) Due to the headlamp connector not properly mated with the electrical assembly, a short drive over a few bumps would knock the high beam or signals out.

So, to fix, attack from behind the headlamp assembly. Open the hood and remove the plastic covers that surround the interior of the engine compartment. The right side (washer reservoir, coolant) is easy to get to the rear of the headlamp assembly. Put your hand down there and push the electrical connector from the rear into the back of the headlight assembly. You'll feel it slip properly over the headlamp assembly electrical connector, mine was very loose even after being locked in place! The left side is more difficult to get to since the air filter assembly covers the rear of the headlamp assembly. I used a half inch socket extension to reach the connector, again, it slipped on and traveled quite a bit even after the headlight assembly was locked in place.

So, your dealer is replacing bulbs when they may not be broken. The problem was solved (in my situation at least) by simply getting my hands dirty.

Look on the cars option code list see if it show I7K3 or I7K4.

oops, just found out that my "fully loaded" 04 CTT doesn't have the option code listed

just use the blade as any other car and forget the remote until you save up some cash would be my advice...as i'm applying this advice myself:)

this is indeed a very wise advice. :D

MSRP is $209.89 -- Did you try Sunset Imports (Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost) ?

hmm... can't find the remote on their website. maybe i should get a used one from ebay.

Stealer in Bay Area wants $260 for the remote and $80 to reprogram it. :o

http://www.amazon.com/Northern-Tool-and-Eq...8539&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/Pela-Oil-Extractor-6...8539&sr=8-7

http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7400-Fluid-E..._pr_product_top

are they going to work?

8. Fill car with 0w-40 Mobil1 Synthetic Oil (Got mine from walmart at $6.25 / Qt, please post sources as this is the cheapest I was able to find)

Kragen has a promotion for mobil 1, something like buy 4 bottles (6.99 each) get 5th for free

What do you guys think of these Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valve

Quick drain plug

I have the 22" replicas with Toyo ST Proxy 295/30/22 and there is nothing wrong with these wheels. I have had HRE, Iforged, Moda, OZ's etc and it makes no difference. If you hit a pot hole they all will bend. My CTTS handles better with the 22's and they are no heavier than the stock 20's. Don't think you have to spend 6-8k on wheels, because you don't.

so did you try to fix the bent wheels or just replace them?

just found out one of the factory 20" on my ctt was bent. wondering what i should do

18 inch wheel = 8.0 J x 18 ET 57 tyres 255/55 R 18

19 inch wheel = 9.0 J x 19 ET 60 tyres 275/45 R 19

You can change the wheels without problem.

how about 20" factory turbo wheel specs? need to replace one due to some damage on it, and the weight difference between the factory one and replica?