yellowlemon

+1 to that! I don't even think we have Rustoleum here in Australia. The thing that appeals to me about Trieullionaire's kits is that they come complete: all the hardware, fascias and trim pieces, and odds and ends required to do a professional install. Even if I could find an equivalent brand of spray paint, I haven't the faintest idea about painting and don't want to screw it up :)

I want to install my aftermarket Bluetooth kit microphone in the "proper" spot located in the dash instrument cluster. (This is for a RHD Boxster 2004) What is the best way to route the wiring to the little dummy microphone insert? Will I have to remove the whole instrument cluster? Or where does that hole lead, can I access perhaps the footwell directly through the hole using fish wire? Thanks for any experience or advice!

So is it better to put the fishline in the front section and pull the harness through from back to front, or would it be easier the other way, ie put fish line in from back of car, and pull harness from front to back. With the sill route, the scariest part seems to be under the passenger footwell - allegedly the carpet there is attached with plastic cement glue, and I don't want to irreversibly damage anything... ! Is it possible to route the sill path, WITHOUT having to disconnect the battery?

I agree, matt look is great! In fact the gloss bezel is only thing holding me back from this kit - If the bezel came in semi-matt look (for black interior) then I would buy this kit in a second! Trieu if you're reading..... ;)

Make sure to take some pics if you install a new radio and keep us updated! Love this stuff.... :)

Because most of the time, I have the CDR-23 radio turned OFF - listening to the engine instead :) But I don't want to miss calls. So I have two options: 1) The Becker HU *MAY* still amplify audio coming in on "telephone input pins" when the MUTE line is asserted, EVEN IF it is in OFF/STANDBY mode. I am strongly hoping this is the case... could anyone confirm this for me? 2) Alternatively, the Parrot BT kits (all of them) come with a "Speaker relay box" that hijacks the speaker lines from the CDR-23 headunit and connects the speakers to the little internal amp in the Parrot brain. So this way the Parrot works regardless of the HU status.... on, off, not even installed, whatever :) Another forum in German "pff online" has a thread stating the "CAN-Bus-Adapter Generation 2, Model 61010" gives exactly the power signal i want, the one that stays on until the actual key is pulled. This is exactly how my CDR-23 behaves now. The coolest thing is that my CDR-23 turns off when I press the LOCK button on my key remote. (google the model no, or check here in english : http://www.dobbertin-elektronik.de/navigat...-ausw-engl.htm) So yeah I was just wondering if there is a simpler way than the CAN adapter, ie perhaps a fuse rail that is switched in this way (depending on presence of key inserted, rather than key turned to ACC or IGN) Minute details I know, but I must have OCD or something :) EDIT: The Becker HU *DOES* still amplify audio coming in on "telephone input pins" when the MUTE line is asserted, EVEN IF it is OFF. It actually comes on while mute is asserted and displays "Phone", then turns off again when the phone is done.

There is also an alternate route for the cabling going via the centre console which is allegedly much easier than the passenger sill..... see bottom of attached PDF (from another poster). I believe this won't necessitate disconnecting the battery, so no problems with airbag lights, electric window calibration etc..... I am going to attempt this soon and must admit the instructions aren't very clear in describing the steps to get the harness routed from the clip on the roll bar, to under the carpet to the centre console. If anyone has some pictures that would be great! Porsche_Speaker_Installation_Tips.pdf

Hello again, apologies for the double post. What I'm really looking for is a power source that stays on until the key is physically removed (like the stock radio), and NOT one that goes off when the key is turned away from ACC position (my AUS version cigarette lighter stays on in ACC position). If anyone can point out which fuse line does this - I scanned the little booklet that comes in my MY 2004 Boxster's fuse box and attach it here to help. It is too large to attach (2MB) .... maybe it can go into the "manuals" download section of this great resourceful website? Cheers!

What mods would be required to fit other 3.5" speakers into the OEM kit? I know Harvey's PNP kit is superior in this regard but Trieullionaire is selling the OEM kit much cheaper at this time..... I'm not too keen on the OEM paper cone things though :) Just saw this page from an audio installer. Seems the OEM speakers are only 3": Description: http://vantagecanada.com/rear-speaker-navi...orsche-boxster/ Picture: http://vantagecanada.com/wp-content/upload...install-023.jpg Here is another page where the OEM kit is modded: http://boxsters.addr.com/hacks/speakers.htm

That is a good idea thanks! Your suggestion has lead me to think of something I hadn't considered: If my radio (Becker CDR-23) is turned OFF (as it is most of the time to hear the cool engine sound), will it still put through the phone kit when the "mute pin" is asserted? I could test this myself but if anyone already knows, that would be great. (If it doesn't put through the phone audio when off/standby, then I will just have to use the stupid "relay kit" that comes with the Parrot unit that hijacks the speakers to use with it's own pathetic little amplifier.)

Do all Boxsters have this phone plug or only US versions? I have removed the lower centre console CD holder, compartment, batwing - couldn't see the connector or cables. Then I removed the carpeted side panel, could see the Air Bag Unit, but no other wires. Interestingly, my air bag unit had a single brown wire connecting to it, in addition to the black plastic wiring loom seen in the picture by Cassiebox above. It almost looks as if it were added later. Scary!

Hello! For installing a Parrot bluetooth kit in my 2004 Boxster (Australia version, RHD) I was at first looking for a switched + that comes on when the key is in ACC position (not just in IGN position) behind the dash. I found the cigarette lighter in my car does this, ie comes on in IGN position. Now, I remember reading on a German forum, there is a THIRD type of switched power, which comes on until the key is pulled out. Sound like the cig lighter on this UK car is wired the same: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=53130 My CDR-23 radio turns off only once the key is pulled, so I know the ignition switch in the key slot supports this third "type" of switched power...... is there a convenient source for this power in the dash? Where would be the best place to tap this from? Ta! EDIT: JUST REALISED THERE IS NO "ACC" POSITION for the key in a Boxster. It's OFF - IGN - START only.

My stock dash speakers for a MY04 Boxster were 8 Ohm impedance, mind you this is for standard not SPP. I replaced them with Jaycar Response Precision 4" dual-cone coaxials which are 4 Ohm impedance ..... and the stock Becker CDR-23 headunit does run a lot hotter with these! I notice when I eject CDs they are very warm. I hope the CDR-23 holds up :o

Old topic I know but I have done this mod with excellent results. *) I used the Jaycar Response Precision 4" co-axial speakers like Jinster, except now in 2009 the crossover is integrated so no big mess of wires like on those pictures. Speakers available online from Jaycar.com.au, Item number CS-2370. See here: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;form=KEYWORD *) The speakers sit really very nice and tight thanks to the remnants of those metal speaker frame tabs being pressed by the modified plastic bracket -- WARNING if you file the metal tabs down too much, then the speaker falls into the hole in the top/big part of the grill. I accidentally did this on one speaker but could luckily bend and stretch the tabs back to make it fit tight again. Even when I had the tabs too short it was just a little loose, still not at all "rattly" *) Highly recommend getting a thin 90-degree bitholder for the Torx screws close to the windscreen if you don't have one. I managed to do it all just using a pair of pliers to hold the bit with which I turned the screws, but it was a pain, and had a high risk of scratching the dash of windscreen. *) I used polyester fill from inside a cheap $5 Kmart pillow as a baffle in the small speaker spaces in the dash. Presumably this improves bass of the 4" speakers. *) The new speakers are 4 OHM while the stock ones are 8 OHM (now HAES not Nokia for a 2004 Boxster) - this makes my CDR-23 head unit run noticeably warmer, I can tell this when I eject CDs they are hot. I wonder if the CDR-23 can handle the 4 Ohm speakers long term?

Thank you very much for that! I also found this useful resource on the CDR-24 pinout which matches your wiring diagram for the CDR-23 (in the important parts :) It seems these two radios are very similar. From http://www.planetporsche.net/cayman-boxste...tooth-myth.html CDR_24_Pinout.pdf

Had a look on Bob's Ultima Site: http://www.ultima-gtr.org.uk/becker.php Apparently I can get Ign+ from BLUE-BLACK at the Climate Control Unit's LARGER connector. Also: Plug A of Original CDR-23 in Boxster or 996. --------- Pin 1 - ? Pin 2 - ? Pin 3 - ? Pin 4 - Constant (+) Pin 5 - CAN bus or other control (must be cut for other radio, or Aircon stays off) Pin 6 - ? Pin 7 - NO Ign (+) present, see above Pin 8 - Ground (-) Plug C ---------- C1 plug contains the CAN high and low signal wires, and must be disconnected for other radios or the aircon compressor cooks itself! Could someone inform me what exactly is on Pins 1,2,3,5&6? And where in C1 are "CAN high" and "CAN low"? Thanks!

Hello! I want to replace the CDR-23 radio in my 2004 Boxster. I have no Amp or CD changer that uses MOST bus. With regards to the CAN bus however, I am worried about the following: 1) Is there a connection for Ignition+ behind the radio? I read since the CDR23 gets the Ignition signal as DATA over the CAN bus, this wire may not be present in the ISO plug. I also read there may be an alternate source for Ign+ from the Climate Control unit...... but which wire??? 2) If I turn the radio on without the key in the car, the it will turn off automatically when I press the LOCK button on the key remote, which is really cool. Will this stay if I replace the radio with aftermarket? (My question is: does the key's LOCK button cut off the Ignition+ power in general, or is it actually a special CAN message that the CDR23 is responsing to that says I've pressed the button on the key?) 3) Is there a wire for Inside Illumination on-off ANALOG signal? Or does this go over CAN bus as well for the CDR23? Is there a nearby source I could tap this signal? A picture of the pinout or wiring would be really helpful, and any advice is much appreciated, thanks!

Thank you for the info! Ah the irony that the frame made here can't withstand our own hot sun! ;) I will give your wire-trick a try....... hopefully I can find the courage to take a drill to my "new" car :°

Hello there! I just took delivery of a used MY2004 Porsche Boxster 986 with 50000 kms and when the convertible top is up, the inner roof lining sags in the front. Closer inspection reveals that a seal-like plastic that joins the inner lining to the outer canvas has cracked, and now I can touch the space between the linings if I put my hand through this plastic seal. Interestingly I looked at the service receipt from 2007 for the 40000km service, and there is an entry for "INNER ROOF LINING HAS SEPARATED - WARRANTY REPAIR" So it seems this has been fixed once already???? And it's broken again???? Since it is no longer under warranty, but the roof was repaired once under warranty, can I take it back to my P Centre and ask them to fix it for free since they never properly fixed it in the first place? Or is this a common problem? I couldn't find anything similar on the forum anywhere. Thanks for your advice.

G'day mate! Good to see other Australians on here... yes it seems a little problematic sourcing some of the good parts.. but hopefully your thread will continue to yield good advice :) Did you see this post by someone who used aussie Jaycar speakers in the front/dash? http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...617&hl=seat Cool!