BillTurbo

Thanks for the link.

Sorry for asking in wrong sub-forum, where should I have asked?

What about 315/30 - 18?

and for front will 235/40 - 18 fit? (stock is 225/40 -18)

car is 2002 911 turbo

The valves are bent and I need new valve guides. My repair shop says that Porsche does not sell them (no part number).

I see the other topic for a 3.4L motor, will these fit mine?

Is there an Audi part number for valve guides that fit mine?

The car is 2002 911 Turbo with 6 speed (USA).

Up date Dec 5, 2011 The check engine light did not come back on since replacing the dual mass flywheel with the single mass flywheel.

The motor did break recently -- the Sprocket wheel that drives the right camshafts broke at its key way (and all the valves are bent on the right side).

The single mass flywheel did give a lot of chatter and in hindsight the chatter increased in the weeks before motor broke.

Does anyone have reasons to suspect that the lack of vibration damping with the single mass flywheel caused the Sprocket wheel failure?

Any suggestions on a good street and track brake pads.... I have used Hawk blue and they are great for the track but they are loud on the street and very dirty

I know that this is hard to find but I read of some new pads that can do both very well..... any suggestions.........

Manny

2002 996 tt

I now have 25 track days on the Pagid Blue pads (S or Sport, the RS 4-2-1 compound) on my 2002 TT and they are at about half the initial thickness. I hose them off after each track day and squirt out the holes in the rotors. While there is dust on the wheels it is not hard to remove (water and sponge). They are better than OE pads on the track and usually quiet on the street (no more noise than Hawk HP on previous car). I got them from Paragon Products.

I have 2002 911 Turbo, CDR 220, type 4462, Serial 250 151 15 (there may be an "I" in front of number?).

thanks, Bill

ps. I disconnected battery to change ignition switch, used the $34 Audi part and the directions given on this site, went well - thanks.

Try 9657

or

9655

I have tried both of them twice and they did not work. I have gone through the 60 minute WAIT twice. It now comes up as code.

Another combination? Thanks, Bill

You can verify the serial number using the technique in the FAQ.

If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so...

Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST

All is answered in the FAQ (hint hint)

ok, thank you, 9659 did work.

p.s. the computation of the code number could be dependent on how each computer system treats round-off and thus a number differing by two may be the result in another system.

I have 2002 911 Turbo, CDR 220, type 4462, Serial 250 151 15 (there may be an "I" in front of number?).

thanks, Bill

ps. I disconnected battery to change ignition switch, used the $34 Audi part and the directions given on this site, went well - thanks.

Try 9657

or

9655

I have tried both of them twice and they did not work. I have gone through the 60 minute WAIT twice. It now comes up as code.

Another combination? Thanks, Bill

You can verify the serial number using the technique in the FAQ.

If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so...

Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST

I have 2002 911 Turbo, CDR 220, type 4462, Serial 250 151 15 (there may be an "I" in front of number?).

thanks, Bill

ps. I disconnected battery to change ignition switch, used the $34 Audi part and the directions given on this site, went well - thanks.

Hey guys,

so ive had my car for a couple of weeks now, having a great time, but because the guy i brought it off had it mostly as a weekend track toy, its set up for track work more than street driving, so im wanting to change a few things, and wonder if anyone here can provide me a little direction or suggestions of where to buy parts that i need.

secondly Brakes:

the pads he has are really heavy metal based for track work, so every time i touch the brakes i get that metalic screech. I just want to put standard pads on there for road driving, and i'll just get the discs skimmed/replaced (if nessecary),

i wonder if anyone has any suggestions of a decent pad for the car that wont be noisy? or if the OEM is the only option?

I now have 19 track days using Pagid Blue pads on a 996 TT. They stop better than the stock pads and they do not make noise on the street.

I recently bought a 2002 Carrera (April) with the memory seats. From day one since I have owned it the mirrors invariably change positions when I get in the car after being locked with the keyless remote and then re-opening with the remote. I have tried both the memory for the key and memory setting 1 or 2. Any help would be most appreciated. :renntech:

Check the manual. When the memory is set with the gear shift in reverse it will move the mirrors on first backing up. Best to reset all of your keys.

A misfire on all cylinders begs to question the quality of the gasoline. How is the gas there?

When misfires occur on both banks:

- Incorrect/low-grade fuel

- Tank empty

- An engine-block heater is used

- Secondary air

- Exhaust system blocked/narrowed

- Foreign bodies in intake tract, this can lead to sporadic misfires on changing cylinders.

-Exhaust causing misfire:

The current guess for my 2002 911 TT (see above) is the misfire may be due to blocked exhaust (broken or plugged cats ?). Removal of test plugs before the cats allows car to run without misfire. Put plugs back in and misfire occurs. Car still in shop now.

UPDATE: the cats are ok. The dual-mass flywheel is not. The spring connecting the two parts of the flywheel is allowing too much flex. The timing pick-up is affected by this and so the computer puts the timing to zero. And this leads to a misfire(?). Will post after flywheel replacement.

I have a 2002 911 TT with misfire in cylinders 4, 5 and 6. It is still in the shop but those ignition coils are being replaced -- they had electrical resistance too large. Also replacing all the spark plug since at 51k miles it close enough to the next service interval. I will let you know when I learn more.

4pm/pt The new coils did not solve the problem. Check engine light came back on during test ride. More news in 24 hours.

I have a 2002 911 Turbo that I acquired 60 days ago and on Monday the check engine light came on. The car passed smog when purchased and now has 50k miles. I was near a Dealer and they read the code but since it was closing time they did not really go over the print out they gave me. The Service person at the Dealer noticed that the inside of the exhaust tips were white, both of them, indicating lean combustion.

I have a 13 page listing and there are 5 Faults. However, these Faults occurred at Operating Hour 1450 and the car is now at Hour 1650 (given in the POSIP (?) section of the listing).

The Faults are: P0300 Misfire detection [P0306 cylinder 6; P0304 cylinder 4; P0305 cylinder 5] and P0040 Oxygen sensors in front of cat. conv. switched.

So are these are old Faults which happened 200 hours ago (~6,000 miles ago) and are no longer a problem?

The first four Faults listed above give the "last state:" Operating Hours as 0.1 larger than in the "1st state".

The Fault P0040 has the same 1st state Operating Hour of 1450 but only blanks for the last state entries. Is this still a problem?

The output reads:

P0040 Oxygen sensors in front of cat.

conv. switched

intermittent

not present

Lamp off

1st state: last state:

Signal implausible Signal implausible

Frequency: 1

Clear Counter 10

Fault time: 0 s

Check Engine on: Driving Cycle 001

Check Engine off: Driving Cycle 003

Lambda value is 0.01 and 0.00 for bank 1 and 2.

ECTS: 83 in 1st state

Operat. hours counter: 1455.0

OBD II code P0040

Under the Freeze Frame information: O2 sensing is control active, both banks.

Load: 9.4 %

ECTS: 82 deg C

Oxygen sensing: 22.6 %

O2 sensing adaption: -1.6 % (negative % ok ?)

O2 sensing, bank 2: -20.4 %

O2 sen. adap., bank2 -3.2 %

RPM: 3080

Speed: 75 km/h

Fault entered by: On-board diagnosis

My wild guess is that if it is running lean then there could be a problem with the fuel supply: fuel pump, fuel filter and/or ?

Should that have thrown a Fault?

From the renntech Forum there was: motor cuts out after gas fill-up: there was a check valve on the vapor recovery line that was getting stuck open because a carbon canister on the fuel recovery system started to disintegrate (the carbon particles sat in the seats of the check valve and would not let it seat (close) properly) - reasonably easy fix.

Currently, my choices are:

1) take it back to the Dealer and let them try at it,

2) take it to an independent shop which does have cheaper labor rates and a history of racing Porsches in the 1990's, or

3) start replacing things at home.

UPDATE (May 14): I did Option 2, took it to an independent shop.

The spring connecting the dual-mass flywheel is allowing too much flex. This affects the timing and the confused computer sets the timing to zero (and this leads to a misfire?). Will post again after flywheel is replaced.

UPDATE (May 23): Replacing the Dual-Mass flywheel cured the problem. Check Engine light only came on when driving as the spring in the flywheel only affected the timing when under the load of moving on the road. Installed a single mass flywheel and had to also replace the O2 sensor before the cat on the right side in order to get the computer to reset for the light weight flywheel.

The exhaust tips are no longer the white color, they are now black and so it may have been running lean due to the timing confusion.

(The engine operating hours are at 1450 and we do not know why the POSIP (Porsche Side Impact Protection) has 200 more operating hours.)

Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers.

Parts you will need:

3-4 liters 999 917 546 00 (Shell) Shell Transaxle (75W-90) or Mobil Mobilube PTX (75W-90)

Approved Manual Transmission Oils

000 043 204 20 Mobil (Mobilube PTX) - 20 liter container

000 043 204 19 Shell (Transaxle) - 20 liter container

999 917 546 00 Shell (Transaxle) - 1 liter container

Note: All are synthetic GL4 and GL5 rated (or "non-conventional processing") oils. GL oils have good light running properties because of their light low-temperature viscosity as well as a high level of temperature stability.

Tools you will need:

Tire ramps or jack

17 mm allen for the fill plug

16 mm triple square with a hole in the middle for the drain plug

Note: Most later cars have an 10 mm allen type plugs - we recommend checking before you start.

3 quart oil catch pan

Torque wrench (optional)

Drain Transmission Oil

Transmission oil should be changed when the engine/transmission has reached normal operating temperature. CAUTION - oil will be hot, take adequate precautions to avoid being burned.

1. Use ramps or jack up the vehicle at the points provided.
   
2. Remove underside panels to access the transmission. (Boxster owners you need to loosen the diagonal braces and then remove the transverse strut member. A little more work on a Boxster. When you put them back they need to have the bolts torqued to 48 ft lbs. (65 nm). See images Image 1 Image 2 Image 3 Image 4 Image 5 ) (images courtesy of scherb)
   
3. Place oil collection pan under the transmission (at least 9 quarts). Always dispose of the waste oil in accordance with local legal requirements.
   
4. Unscrew oil filler screw (1).
   
5. Unscrew oil drain screw (2) and drain transmission oil.
   
6. Wait about 20 minutes for all the old oil to drain.
   
   

Fill Transmission Oil

1. Clean oil drain and oil filler screw.
   
2. Screw in oil drain screw. Tightening torque: 22 ft-lb.
   
3. Fill with gear oil up to the bottom edge of the oil filler opening.
   
4. Screw in oil filler screw. Tightening torque: 22 ft-lb.
   
5. Install underside panels.
   

Model/Capacity (approx.)

Manual Transmission

911 Carrera (G96/00) - 2.7 liters

911 Carrera 4 (G96/30) - 2.7 liters

GT3 - 3.3 liters

Boxster (G86/00) - 2.25 liters

Turbo - 3.0 (to 3.8) liters

Front-axle Final Drive

911 Carrera 4 (Z96/00) - 1.5 liters

Turbo - 1.5 liters

Anybody need a 17 mm allen socket?

I ordered from Sears before checking the fill plug. Both of my plugs are 10 mm allen (2002 911 TT)

Bauer Repair in Oakland (abauer.com)

I was going to have my Manual transmission /Front differential fluid changed . The car only has 15k miles but it is a 2002 and I am always ahead on fluid cahnges. My mechanic is prepared to do it for me as long as I provide the fluids. Short of buying directly from Porsche dealership ...can anybody advise as to what is the original factory fill fluid, is it a special Porsche formulation or can I buy it without the Porsche branding?

Would it be better to use an alternative product? The car is predominantly driven on the street in very high ambient temperatures .I see alot of guys mentioning Redline products.

Thanks for your suggestions.

In the 996 as well as most Porsche manual transaxles we recommend the 75W90NS, a suitable replacement for the PTX fluid. The NS contains No Slippery additives so isn't too slippery for the synchros, a problem with most gear oils. In the front differential I would recommend the 75W90, it contains a friction modifier, beneficial to the separate differential operation.

Regards, Dave

Red Line

I understand from Jeff Clark at Sunset Porsche there is a new Porsche Approved Oil list (released March 10, 2009) (36 08 1701 ?).

Anyone have a copy of it?