venturawildes

I found an old school auto electrical outfit in Santa Barbara and had them rebuild mine, cost about $100

Loren, 6 speed, thank you!

Great suggestions, is the 2002 fuel filter the same as 99-01? AKA, Loren, could you kindly tell me what the part numbers are for the fuel filter, front tranny mount and AOS are for a 2002 C2 cab?

Thank you everyone!

Ok, so looks like the throwout bearing gave it up on my C2 cab. Not too bad, 84k on it, I'm going to have a new clutch put in, main seal, and while it's out, the IMS bearing, tranny oil change, and why not do the slave cylinder.

Any other known trouble spots easier to fix when the tranny is out? Is the AOS any easier?

man come on, I've had a rough night, and I hate the fnn Eagles, man

run the chemistry on unused oil and set a benchmark.

Does the flywheel have to be replaced also? Adds a lot of cost.

It felt like something broke, car has 83K on it, perhaps time for a new clutch. Local indy will do it for 1500, seems very reasonable, throw in a 1k for the IMS upgrade.

I was driving home and it felt like something gave or broke in the clutch system. The pedal kind of suddenly went to the floor and the car became hard to shift. Clutch still has pressure but pedal feels very light. Car creeps when in 1st and clutch depressed. Any ideas?

Always a trick with these cars. I used the pickle fork, can vouch that you have to be careful to not drive the end into the carrier.

The insert is pretty tight, I cannot find the rattle, replaced the lower suspension arm with new ball joints, sway bar mounts, and inner/outer tie rod. I'm hoping that the inners did the trick, if not, I'm baffled

I let my pressure get low and my backs wore out on the inside. I run 36 back, 32 front same size rims as you

nope, did not, I found an old school shop and we were able to press it off, it went back in the hub easy enough. If this doesn't fix my front end rattle, I'm going to lose my mind.

So I started to replace the inner tie rods on my 2002 cab, easy breasy, got the trw inners, some hose clamp, blue loctite, tool from pep boys, went ahead and rented the outer tie rod end tool also.

And now the fun began, all the outer tie rod end tool did was mangle the threads, no problem, I'll just see if I can get it out as I have the old set of outer, can make due until I get a new one. WRONG!, the steel insert came off the hub assembly and I cannot get it off the tie rod end.

Any idea if it is available, the steel insert that goes in the aluminum hub assembly? How screwed am I?

I haven't had much luck with non OEM parts, my car throws a fit if I try to put them on.

I just ordered a cable for $81 from Sunset. I also looked at the Porsche manual And read what it said about replacing the top. It gave some details on all the screws you need to remove. I am going to try and document and take pictures of cable replacement and I would be happy to forward them to you if I can get it figured out. Good luck and I agree with you this is a great forum and it has helped me considerably my first year of ownership.

That would be awesome and greatly appreciated.

Wow, they want 110 or so for that cable. I guess it's less expensive than a new top.

I need to replace my cable on my 03 996 as well. I was fortunate enough to meet up with the guy that some of the local Porsche dealers use to do their top work. He looked at my top and confirmed I needed a cable and spent a few minutes explaining the process. He said it would be almost 5 hours of labor and talked about what is involved to install a new cable. I joked with him and said if he kept explaining everything that I might attempt the fix on my own. He laughed and encouraged me to do so and then took the time to explain in detail how to fix it. I think you might need to remove that philips screw in the left corner of the second picture. I also remember him saying something about removing the rubber seal that goes around to the front enough so that you can get to the front of the metal trim. I think once that black trim is off you have another set of screws to remove. He also mentioned something about a screw being covered by a piece of rubber. I am waiting on parts and I will be tackling this project myself very soon. Good luck I hope this helped a little bit.

I just got a quote, and it was 5hrs as well. The guy didn't know if he could get a replacement cable, but he seemed talented enough to be able handle making one.

Loren, can you send them to me as well?

I am being quite serious here, without this forum, I could not own this car. I'm pretty handy with a set of wrenches, my Father was a mechanic and I grew up working on cars. This car is something different, you absolutely need to know the "trick" if not, it's not going to happen for you. Most of the stuff thus far I've been able to tackle. Overflow coolant tank (lower the engine), spark plugs (take the mufflers off), door microswitches (don't turn the key on with airbags removed), ignition switch (go in through the vent).

Just a hearty thank you to everyone, what a great forum.

Does anyone know of a good upholstery shop in the SB/Ventura area?

Thank you everyone for the help, this one is over my head, will try to find a good upholstery shop in the Santa Barbara/Ventura area.

It is the cable, but I am having the hardest time figuring out how to get to it. I took off the weatherstrip, and the four Phillips head screws underneath, but it appears to me that piece is part of the frame structure, i.e. it's hinged. Please see pics. Any idea how to get this off so I can get at the cable attach point on the top of the "top"?

You just need 2 hose clamps. The boots are easily reusable. If you are going to the trouble and expense (parts, alignment, etc) to do the inner TREs, do the outers at the same time. They are half done anyway, when you do the inners, The ball joint tool is like $17 from Napa. I bought the TRW TREs, all 4 parts for around $200 from Vertex, and the inner TRE tool off Amazon for under $70. Piece of cake, with the right tools. Identical to the OE Porsche ones, except they don't bind. BTW, they solved all my rattles/creaks/groans, and made the steering smoooth.

Already did the outers attempting to fix the rattle, time to do the inners! I'll get some new clamps and be done with it. Replaced the lower arm w the ball joints and sway bar links, but the rattle is still there. I jacked one side of the car up and got about 1/2 inch of play when I moved the wheel from right to left.

Any idea why my wipers make such a horrendous noise? New bosch blades. They chatter on the windshield, almost as if they catch a little bit. Very very noisy, and oddly enough, it's been raining here in SoCal!