ravengolfer

Road tested my Boxster yesterday after re-installing it's rebuilt Tiptronic and found a differential fluid leak. It seems to be at the breather tube. The tube does have a blue fluid all over it so I am sure it is coming out of the diff and not the Tiptronic. Could this be caused by an over filled differential?

Just got my Boxster Tiptronic back from the rebuilders and unhappy with shape of the gasket. It is broken like this in 5 places. Should i change this gasket or fill the tip before installing to see if it will leak? Can i pre-fill the TC before installing as well? Also I ordered the Porsche part# 999.917.547.00 ATF and was sent Fuchs 5005. Is that approved for the ZF 5hp19?

I am removing the tip from a 2000 Boxster right now using the Bentley Manual and it has been great until the point of unbolting from engine and it is not clear on removing the selector cable from the tiptronic. Also, I think the TC gets pushed into the transmission after unbolting from Flywheel and it does do not call this step out.

Pulling the Tiptronic out of the Boxster today to ship off and have it rebuilt and it is ready to drop except the the selector cable does not want to detach from the linkage at the tip. It pulls off around the cable eyelet correct?

The 5HP19 tiptronic in my 2000 Boxster was working fine until I did a fluid change and then it started slipping 400 miles after the change. It works fine manually up to 3rd gear and slips going into 4th. I checked the fluid level at the 30c and it was less than 1/2 quarts low. I topped in off and it still slips. I used ZF Safeguard 5 and a filter kit I purchase from Pelican. I did a double flush on the fluid. Should I try changing back to ATF LT71141? Also, I connected my Durmatic up and I am getting a communications failure to the tip, however I am able to communicate with the engine and see no fault code.

I ran the new fluid that I just drained out thru a coffee filter and noticed a small amount of clutch contamination and something that looked like latex, more like a thin flake of paint than anything else, but very little metal in the fluid. The fluid has no odder like burnt TF but is much blacker than I would think it should be for a double flush service. The original fluid was black with no odder as well but it had been in there for 135,000 miles.

Could this "latex" looking material be Teflon? Is there a Teflon bearing in the 5hp19 and if so it maybe coming apart?

I dropped the pan and replaced the filter and fluid with Pentosin ATF-1 but it still slips going into 4th gear. The fluid that came out looks thick and has some metallic flakes but very little. I have the fluid to do a 2nd flush but not sure it will do any good? I found a used 2005 tiptronic out of a non-s Boxsters for $2,500 and if it is compatible with my 2000 Boxsters (non-S) I may just change it out.

We did you refill with the Pentosin ATF-1? To my knowledge, the OEM fluid is still an ESSO product ( ATF LT 71141 fluid) and is the only one approved for 1999-2001 Tip transmissions. There are a lot of aftermarket companies claiming to have compatible fluids, but Porsche has remained very specific on both manufacturer's (Esso, Fuchs and Shell) and fluid types for these gearboxes.

This was from your post above "You need to be careful about two things: First, the Tip does not like the wrong type of fluid. Specs say that the car should use OEM 999-917-545-00, Esso LT 71141, or Pentosin ATF-1." Should I order the LT71141 and try a 3rd flush? I think 75% of my problem is trying to pin point root cause. Does anyone know of a good rebuilder in the Southeast I can take the transmission or buy a rebuilt if needed? Thanks

It is my understanding that the Esso product has a slightly different coefficient of friction than the ATF-1, which is why it was the original (an only) choice back in 2000-2001. If the trans does not respond to using it, then the problem is deep seated enough that the gear box has to come apart.

The 5HP19 tiptronic in my 2000 Boxster was working fine until I did a fluid change and then it started slipping 400 miles after the change. It works fine manually up to 3rd gear and slips going into 4th. I checked the fluid level at the 30c and it was less than 1/2 quarts low. I topped in off and it still slips. I used ZF Safeguard 5 and a filter kit I purchase from Pelican. I did a double flush on the fluid. Should I try changing back to ATF LT71141? Also, I connected my Durmatic up and I am getting a communications failure to the tip, however I am able to communicate with the engine and see no fault code.

I ran the new fluid that I just drained out thru a coffee filter and noticed a small amount of clutch contamination and something that looked like latex, more like a thin flake of paint than anything else, but very little metal in the fluid. The fluid has no odder like burnt TF but is much blacker than I would think it should be for a double flush service. The original fluid was black with no odder as well but it had been in there for 135,000 miles.

I dropped the pan and replaced the filter and fluid with Pentosin ATF-1 but it still slips going into 4th gear. The fluid that came out looks thick and has some metallic flakes but very little. I have the fluid to do a 2nd flush but not sure it will do any good? I found a used 2005 tiptronic out of a non-s Boxsters for $2,500 and if it is compatible with my 2000 Boxsters (non-S) I may just change it out.

We did you refill with the Pentosin ATF-1? To my knowledge, the OEM fluid is still an ESSO product ( ATF LT 71141 fluid) and is the only one approved for 1999-2001 Tip transmissions. There are a lot of aftermarket companies claiming to have compatible fluids, but Porsche has remained very specific on both manufacturer's (Esso, Fuchs and Shell) and fluid types for these gearboxes.

This was from your post above "You need to be careful about two things: First, the Tip does not like the wrong type of fluid. Specs say that the car should use OEM 999-917-545-00, Esso LT 71141, or Pentosin ATF-1." Should I order the LT71141 and try a 3rd flush? I think 75% of my problem is trying to pin point root cause. Does anyone know of a good rebuilder in the Southeast I can take the transmission or buy a rebuilt if needed? Thanks

I dropped the pan and replaced the filter and fluid with Pentosin ATF-1 but it still slips going into 4th gear. The fluid that came out looks thick and has some metallic flakes but very little. I have the fluid to do a 2nd flush but not sure it will do any good? I found a used 2005 tiptronic out of a non-s Boxsters for $2,500 and if it is compatible with my 2000 Boxsters (non-S) I may just change it out.

I found that the communications issue with my Tip was a software compatibility issue with Durametic 6 s/w. I reloaded the Durametic 5 s/w and it is now displaying the correct temp and no fault codes, however it is still slipping. Should I replace the ZF Safeguard 5 with Pentosin ATF-1 or is it too late?

The 5HP19 tiptronic in my 2000 Boxster was working fine until I did a fluid change and then it started slipping 400 miles after the change. It works fine manually up to 3rd gear and slips going into 4th. I checked the fluid level at the 30c and it was less than 1/2 quarts low. I topped in off and it still slips. I used ZF Safeguard 5 and a filter kit I purchase from Pelican. I did a double flush on the fluid. Should I try changing back to ATF LT71141? Also, I connected my Durmatic up and I am getting a communications failure to the tip, however I am able to communicate with the engine and see no fault code.

I need to replace the leather door panels on my 986 Boxster, but could only find a set from a 987. Does anyone know if they will fit? I know that people have replaced the doors on a 986 with a 987, but not just the panel. Thanks MJM

Vincent,

I think you have issue. It takes a 5 mm hex head and maybe an hour to change it, including taking the right tire off.

-m

Vincent,

I just got her running and it was the Pulse Sender (aka Crankshaft Position Sensor) and it is called a "Impulse sender" at Pelican Parts. Odd I had no faults on the Durametric?

Item Name Item Price Quantity Item Total

--------- ---------- -------- ----------

986-606-112-02-M14 $131.75 1 $131.75

Impulse Sender, Boxster 986 (1997-2004), Brand: Bosch

-m

Michial, please update your progress if you get it fixed before me. I've given up & took it in. It has been in the shop for 2 days, & they haven't figured it out either...

Vincent,

I am a EE and make a living from troubleshooting and solving difficult problems and this one should be easy. I've ordered more tools to aid in troubleshooting, but still looking for a good fuel pressure gauge. I would like to find a pressure kit that will also work on my Mercedes, BMW and Lexus. They all have the Bosch system.

Did you or your shop try the Pulse Sender? I will let you know as soon as I solve this one and please do the same.

Thanks

-Michial

Once again, I really appreciate all the replies. The info is defintely valuable! After reading non-stop in the last few days, now I'm thinking my car is NOT really overheating. I'm narrowing down to "some" sensor such as crankshaft position sensor, engine speed sensor, fuel injection pressure sensor causes the NO START condition. My questions now are:

1) why would a broken relay, module or a sensor be okay again after the car cools down again?

2) would a bad sensor trigger a fault code?

3) right after the car stalls, can I take out certain sensor & test it?

4) Is it true that if the Fuel injection pressure sensor fails, I should see fuel when I pull of the vacuum hose that attaches to the sensor?

I think I'm getting somewhere! Hopefully :P

best regards,

--vincent

I am having the same issue with my 2000 Boxster, it reachs 184 F and dies and will not restart until it cools down below 160 F. I've order a pulse sender aka crankshaft position sensor and fuel pump, but 90% sure it is the pulse sender. I am looking for a fuel pressure gauge for a Porsche and can not seem to find one in Tucson or at Snapon.com. Would anyone know where to find this tool?

Thanks

Michial

Hi just wondered has anyone experienced any problem starting straight after changing there fuel filter.. Does the system self bleed many thanks

I just changed the filter in my 2000 boxster and got 4 miles down the road and it died like it had run out of gas. I verified connections and they are good.

Maurice,

Should the elastic strip be attached to the plastic plug that secures the slider at the top?

Thanks

Mike

"I also included a picture of the new top where you can see those elastic strips. GAAH tells that they should be

fixed to the third bow from the front."

Maurice,

thank you very much for your information and your kind words. With that recommendation in mind, I will definitely exchange the red ball cups!

Concerning the foam sealer: There I got me some foam which is adhesive on on side. Out of this foam I cutted two pieces that should be very similar than the old ones. As adviced, I spared enough material around were the philips screws will be later.

Now lets come to the slider! Thank you for the link. In fact I read the thread during my preparation and had the clear feeling from this, that the old slider ...7000 out of my car will be way shorter than the updated slider I buy (...7002). It was a big surprise for me, that the section of the slider where you slide the canvas in is about 1 inch longer at my old slider. I compared part#: The old slider has the ...7000 on it, the new slider has the ..7002 (but is shorter ?!?!?).

On the slider-picture, the left parts is what I bought new, the right parts (longer) are what came out of the vehicle. My feeling tells me, use the longer slider. My brain tells me, use the newer (shorter) slider as Porsche did not develop it without reason.

I also included a picture of the new top where you can see those elastic strips. GAAH tells that they should be

fixed to the third bow from the front.

Thank you very much for your advice!

Christoph

Christoph:

Definitely the right move with the white plastic ball cups.

I am also glad to see that you did EXACTLY the right thing with the foam seals. That's the way they came with my top (it was a factory top that I bought on eBay from a guy who had bought the top and totalled his Boxster before he could have it installed). The top came in a Porsche box, with Porsche part numbers and it included a kit that included the foam seals, and they had adhesive on one side . You will have no problems with leaks that a few posters have reported when they "skipped" installing new foam seals.

The photos of the sliders tell the whole story. I would definitely use the longer sliders. That's what came with my factory top and it worked out perfectly. The part that extends 1 inch higher at the upper end helps insure that the cable falls better into the guide channel.

If you look carefully at that post #24 in the thread I gave you a link to, you will see the difference between the two versions of the 'short' sliders. Those are versions 1 and 3(call them "old" and "newest". The longer slider is version 2 (call it "newer"). The difference between the old and the newest versions is the spacing and location of the channel at the bottom of the slider. You can see the difference in the measurements and photos that "Jimmyboyle" posted in that thread.

The elastic straps provided by GAHH appears to be correct for insuring that the top folds correctly and also to help with the cable falling into the guide channel. Since you have your top in front of you, it might be helpful if you compare the location of that elastic strap with the measurements I specified in that same thread.

Let me know what you find, but my instinct tells me you will be okay with these elastic straps and the longer (newer) slider that was originally installed in your old top.

In any case, I'm sure you are on the right path.

Regards, Maurice.

I am having problems with the 3m dual sided tape adhering to the canvas that Mke Focke had recommends. Can anyone recommend a stronger dual sided tape? Thanks Mike

There are 2 bolts on the water pump that are longer than the others. Can anyone tell me where they go? I know one came from the top.

Here's the link Sears Powder Coat Gun

Looks cool.

Looks pretty neat. It is an electrostatic gun. You then just bake at 400 degrees to cure the paint. Kind of limited in the size of what you can do, because you need a curing oven, but probably works real well for small stuff.

After a failed paint job, I elected to have a power coat shop do my calipers. You can have all 4 sandblasted and coated for about $100.00. The only problem I experienced was they coated around the dust cover grooves and treads for the hardlines. I had to buy a tap to clean out the tread holes and do alot of sanding on the grooves, but it worked out great. Also, if you power coat or have it done I suggest breaking them completely down and with much care removing both dust covers and intern seals. You can not buy the seals and the dust covers cost $$$$ for all 4 calipers.

-michial

All you did was drain the oil and change the oil filter - right?

Does the dipstick show the right amount of oil?

During troubleshooting I found that I was experience an excessive crank case vacuum. As it turn out the oil light was from a bad oil/air separator. $120.00 to Pelican and 2 hours of easy labor and the beast is healed!

wvicary,

I now believe you are correct about the Oil Separator. I think it is causing the engine to have an excessive vacuum. I can not remove the oil cap while the engine is running and the oil filler tube collapses. However there is no signs that I am ingusing oil from the crankcase, no smoke, or oil on intakes.

thanks

Michial

No smoke and it does not use oil.

I am experiencing an engine squeal that goes away when the oil cap is removed. Can anyone tell me what that is an indication of? It is a 2000 Boxster with 75,000 miles on it. I was also getting a oil pressure light on suddent stops until I change the oil from 0 w-40 to 15 w-50.

Thanks

Michial