Bob Brooks

My 2017 Macan S has an erratic sensor for outside temperature.  Hoping this is a reasonable DIY replacement.

Bob in Houston

I have a 2017 Macan S with about 5,400 miles.  When I accelerate, even mildly, then let off the gas there is a rattly sound from under the hood.  I assume this is coming from the turbos, but since I want this special order car to be perfect, I have not taken it to the dealer.  

Where to position your floor jack so the jacking points are available for jack stands? On 997-1 coupe.Bob

I am in the process of sending back some "not OEM" Turbo style wheels. They looked great on ebay, and the seller had a very high rating, but the rear wheels had a thicker (by about 40%) outer rim face than the fronts. The factory Turbo wheels are not like that. So, trying to save some money has backfired and I take a bit of a loss with the shipping costs, thereby getting a reduced refund.

I'm interested in recommendations about wheel sellers that handle slightly used factory wheels. Finish Line Wheels looks great on the web but it is very hard to reach them, and the presence of a wheel on the web seems to have little to do with what's in stock.

The horns are behind the front bumper on the right side.

You will need to remove the front bumper to get to them (covered elsewhere - please do a search).

OK. Now I will type like I'm literate. "Search" did not yield anything on front bumper removal. Can you help me find that thread? My car is a 2007 997, and I'm a big fan of louder horns in competitive big city traffic.

Does the Griot's Italian air horn that you recommended have any lag time while the air builds up? This used to be a problem with air horns that did not involve an air tank.

Thanks,

Bob

The horns are behind the front bumper on the right side.

You will need to remove the front bumper to get to them (covered elsewhere - please do a search).

Search did you yield anything. Can you help me...2007 997 front bumper?

Thanks.

My 2007 997 coupe has developed a mysterious syndrome. While parked in the garage with the door close it will periodically (really pretty regularly) lock the doors, or pop open the trunk, or unlock the doors....all without any use of the remote.

First trip to the dealer involved a reprogramming of that system and the two keys. No improvement.

Has anyone else experienced this? What was the fix?

If there are no fault codes present as Loren suggests, I would suggest removing the batteries from both your key heads for a week or so and manually locking/unlocking the doors, to eliminate them as a possible cause of the faults. As PAULSPEED mentioned, the key fobs are very sensitive to pressure, especially the trunk button. It could well be that one of the fobs is somehow damaged internally and periodically emitting the signal needed to lock or unlock the car.

If a week passes with no further evidence of the ghost in the machine, try putting a battery back in one key for a few days. If that's trouble-free then do the other key. Whichever key causes the issue is likely your problem. If the system still misbehaves with the remotes disabled, perhaps something near your car is causing radio interference. Does the problem only occur at home, or does it happen when you're out and about?

Mark

Thus far the problem has only been noticed while the car is in the garage with the door down. It is not a function of the remote being activated while in the pocket of my jeans, because this happens when the keys are hanging on a hook or lying on my dresser.

The latest pattern is that I leave the car unlocked overnight in the closed garage, with the trunk shut. Next morning trunk has been popped and the car has been locked. This has occured twice in the past two days. Both keys were at least 40' away with lots of studs and drywall between the car and the key. Prior to this latest reoccurrence the car could be left locked,then I would go to start it in the morning and would find that it had been unlocked. Again, keys far away.

This car is still under warranty, so I am returning to the dealer for Round #2 next week. Don't know if this extends to the two expensive keys or not. I was fishing for some advice from the users since I like to know multiple viewpoints.

My 2007 997 coupe has developed a mysterious syndrome. While parked in the garage with the door close it will periodically (really pretty regularly) lock the doors, or pop open the trunk, or unlock the doors....all without any use of the remote.

First trip to the dealer involved a reprogramming of that system and the two keys. No improvement.

Has anyone else experienced this? What was the fix?

Who is doing the work? Dealer? Indy? DIY? You can buy the whole clutch kit for about $550.00 assuming you don't need to replace the flywheel. A good indy should be able to do the install for about the same amount in labor. As for your original question, not sure why you would risk putting inferior parts in a high performance vehicle to save maybe a 100.00 bucks... Besides my experience is you get what you pay for...

Clutch replacement will be done by independent shop. Came highly recommended by a guy who had two extensive Porsche mechanical restorations done there; air cooled models I believe. So far they have done a complete brake job and a few other less expensive deferred maintenance items. When they did the PPI for me they pointed out the seal leak, saying it would be a waste of money to do that separate from a clutch replacement...which would be needed "sometime". Have not priced clutch replacement at my preferred dealership.

My 2002 996 coupe has 67,000 miles on it; 59,000 prior to my ownership. I've had it about a year, but it may become my daily driver which would result in something closer to 12,000k per year.

Between the slight oil leak from the front seal and the mileage I am anticipating a clutch and seal job this year. I am curious about the experience of forum members in the use of a Porsche clutch versus that of another less expensive manufacturer. I value the mechanical feel of my car, with all of its subtleties and nuances, and would not want to lose any of that. Is it worth the price to stick with Porsche for this big part?

I have recently had an Alpine head unit and amplifier installed to replace the Becket/Haes factory setup. The Becker was somehow interfaced with the alarm system, and had a red light in its face. In the all-factory mode when one would arm the alarm the headlights/tail lights would blink twice, following by a horn honk if some secured component (door, console lid, etc) was ajar.

With my replacement radio the horn honks each time I arm the alarm system. The very experienced installer could not find a decicated alarm system wire to the Becker, and does not know how to get this errant horn honking to cease. If would like to reinstitute the original functions of the alarm system so I will know if something is amiss when I arm it. This is pretty subtle stuff, I know, but I am one of those perfectionists when it comes to function.

Is their a proven fix for this problem? The car's; not mine:-)

Just wanted to say hi. Purchased my first 911 last month. 1999 911 C2 62K.

I've loved every minute of it. The only thing that bothers me about the car is the cassette player. It makes the car feel older and less exotic. However it does have the cd changer, so I can still listen to my music.

I have two question and would appreciate any advice:

1. If I can find a used cd head unit from another 966, is the wiring the same so that I could just remove my cassette player and install the factory cd unit (assuming that I would also get the code from the seller)

2. My second issue is with the tipronic shift knob. The top part of the knob (the silver button that presses down) pops off about every third or fourth time that I depress it. I pop it back into place but it keeps doing it. It seems to come out of place when I depress it. The knob has a small plastic wheel like device on it. When it pops off, I can see a spring on the shift knob and a very thin metal bar that the silver button clicks back on to. I don't think anything has bee broken off, but its kinda embarrassing when someone is in the car with me and I go to shift into gear and the button flies off into my lap. :(

Im very excited about my new car and look forward to chatting with other owners.

Thanks

I have a 2002 996 C2 that has the radio I believe you are thinking of. It is an AM/FM/single CD unit. Becker CDR220. Available new and possibly refurbished from SW Stereo Specialists(www.swstereo.com). Might find a used one on ebay. I have the upgrade that includes speakers in the doors and a 6-channel Haes amplifier; all factory, but I think this Becker head unit will also work without a separate amp. SW Stereo could tell you.

There is lots of dialogue on this forum about the Becker unit not being up to snuff with the performance of current head units, but if you want to maintain the aesthetics of the instrument panel the Becker is really the only good option I have found. And then, there is a lot of talk about the need to have a better amplifier and speakers. I have recently replaced my dash and rear panel speakers with some from MB Quart, which is tedious and hiding the big crossovers is challenging. It does sound noticeably better but it would not satisfy a true audiophile willing to spend several thousand $ to advance the sound in his Porsche. You can run a search for "Stereo Upgrade" or similar topics and find quite a bit of experience about this on the forum.

scguy

While they may "work" you will suffer a loss of fidelity. The crossover is designed based on the inductance and capacitance of specific speakers. Changing the size and design of the speakers changes these characteristics considerably.

On Sunday I contacted a friend of mine...SERIOUS audiophile with in-depth knowledge of electronics, amateur radio operator since 1958, etc. He saw no problem, so I swapped them. Sounds MUCH better than the stock speakers. Will be interesting to see what the MB Quart techs say.

Thanks.

I have two sets of MB Quart 4" component speakers. The shallower model (QWC-100) goes in the dash, but they came with surprisingly large crossovers. I am putting MB Quart PVI-210's in the rear panels. I would like to use the large QWC crossovers for the rear speakers, and use the smaller crossovers that came with the PVI's for the dash speakers.

Seems to me they should be interchangeable. It's all about sending different sound frequencies to a woofer and a tweeter. This is not an audiophile installation, FWIW.

Man, is it hard to get enough advance information about these things to know that it will all fit! At least I conquered the mountin of these speakers to the factory grilles; no minor accomplishment.

You need to buy Porsche OEM since the passenger side has a curve in two axis to fit the wind shield properly. 3rd party replacements from pep boys for example, will hit the edge of the windshield on the passenger side.

Simon

You are absolutely right about the OEM. They make contact with the windshield better, and are definitely worth the money.

I have just about had it with aftermarket windshield wiper blades, regardless of the vehicle. The right length is only part of the story.

I have seen conflicting opinions about the Nakamichi cd player/receiver units, such as the CD 400. Has anyone had experience with these during the past year or two?

What do you mean conflicted?

Some say they are wonderful, others say they are not reliable and Nak does not provide warranty support.

My wife absolutely LOVES my 2002 6-spd C2 coupe. She needs some surgery on her left foot, so has only driven it once. We drive everywhere in it unless we need the cargo space of one of our SUV's. She has seen from Day One (we have been married 25 years) how important my rides are to me. At first she resisted my buying this car (I've had it 10 months), but then she recalled that her mom refused to let her dad buy his own plane, and it was a real downer for him. He already knew how to fly, and had the bucks.

Having the right wife is THE ticket! It also might help if the car is reasonably comfortable and dependable (no unseemly breakdowns, no loud mufflers, or distortion-riden sound system, good air conditioning).

Might be worth mentioning that my previous fun machine was a motorcycle, which was bought with the anticipation of my wife learning to ride, or at least becoming a passenger on weekend rides. She got cold feet and neither happened. She supported the idea of my riding, but was in silent fear every time I rode. The 911 is our 4-wheel motorcycle, one we both enjoy in town and on the country roads in Texas.

I have seen conflicting opinions about the Nakamichi cd player/receiver units, such as the CD 400. Has anyone had experience with these during the past year or two?

You can't use the existing amplifier with the aftermarket head unit since it's controlled by a fiber optic cable. I have seen photos of crossovers mounted in that location, but lots of wiring is exposed and it looks a bit too busy for my taste. I left it in place to help conceal the wiring, but it's not connected. Hope that helps.

Very helpful. I have an 02 996 C2, which does not have the MOST nomenclature, but my 6 x 40W Haes amp looks like the one you left in place to hide the busy stuff.

What are the model #'s of your Alpine head unit and amp. The Alpine PDX5 amp looks tasty, but since none of the sellers on the web want to show the details of where the wires go, and where you need access for control settings, I can't tell if it will fit in that deeper area next to the Haes.

Bob

Santa Claus was very good to me this year. I got a new alpine head unit, amp and focal speakers to go in my 03 996. I went with 5"1/4 speakers for the doors, tweeters are installed in the dash, and I mounted a set of three-way 6x9's in the quarter panels. I hid the crossovers behind the amp to make it look as clean as possible. The sound difference is AMAZING!! I highly recommend the focal speakers if you're looking to upgrade.

Did you retain the original Haes amplifier?

Bob

Was driving down the high way with Valentine One mounted just below the rear-mirror; traffic was light, weather was good, and all of a sudden there was a Cop with a laser speed gun standing at the side of the road!! before I can scream "SH*T"!! I was passing by him at about 50 mph (speed limit 35 mph).

I didn't get pull over, but was shocked that V1 did not give me any warning at all!! it was like... V1 didn't even work!!

Yes, I do have a 10% clear film on my wind shield, but still, no warning from V1 at all. But I know the K & X band warning works on the V1 cuz it beeps like crazy when I pass by the grocery stores.

Need to find a good laser detector, anyone knows an alternative to V1??? (Cops in Hawaii uses only laser speed guns)

See RadarRoy.com for some up-to-date reviews, including the new Escort Redline.

Can anyone tell me where I can get a battery for my 996? I assume the dealer will charge an outrageous price.

I just installed an Optima "red top" in my 2002 996 coupe; $170. Model 34 is the right size, but it's best if you get 34R, which reverses the post locations. Bought it at a local auto parts store. Had to replace one cable with a longer one, but that is very easy. Used a "universal" clamp (from same parts store). The Optima's length doesn't get you to one of the several threaded holes in the battery tray, but a big washer spanned across the distance and made it all work. This battery does a much better job than the "Porsche" battery that was in the car when I bought it.

Optimas used to not have the extended edges at the bottom that you need to fit into the battery tray, and to enable the clamp to have something to bit onto. Now they do.

I just installed the 57-7000 Kit on my '99 996 Cabriolet and it's noisier, but acceleration is smooth. The HP claim by K&N is actually documented in the peperwork included in the kit itself. It is a Dynojet Research graph which shows a 23.8 HP difference at 5500RPM. What I found interesting about the graph is that with the stock intake the Carrera hp goes up and back down between 5500 and 5900 RPMs. With the K&N Kit it's actually a smoother increase of HP through the RPM range. I'll report back in a couple of days.

This is the link to the Kit

http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=57-7000

While not the same type of engine....I have put K&N Air Intake Kits on two Ford V8's, and each became more responsive in the lower RPM's; particularly noticeable from a standstill and around town. On some vehicles these things produce too much noise for my taste, which can be a very bothersome drone on long highway trips. A middle ground would be to install a K&N filter, but not the air intake kit.

Just purchased 2002 996 coupe. Radio seems to be original to the car. Need code after disconnecting battery.

Becker CDR 220

Type 4462

SN 1500-1868

24/99

Bob

Try 0579

or

0577

If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so...

Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST

You are a gem! Used your "skip 2 digits" suggestion and the radio was free with the entry of 0581. You kept my project moving forward instead of being stymied til next Saturday. If I start working on this thing during the week, my wife's enthusiam for my Porsche adventure will drop sharply.

Just purchased 2002 996 coupe. Radio seems to be original to the car. Need code after disconnecting battery.

Becker CDR 220

Type 4462

SN 1500-1868

24/99

Bob

Try 0579

or

0577

If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so...

Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST

Do I need to do the one hour thing for WAIT to disapper before I enter the code?