beauar

just an update from a long time ago on this issue. Turns out the tire was warped. The tire store replaced the tire. You could not see anything wrong with the tire initially until it got up to speed.

I have a 2003 996 c2. I have Michelin Pilot Sport AS plus in the rear of my car. I noticed that at about 70-80mph I get a loud honing sound coming from the rear tires. It seems to go away at 80+ mph and goes away again at 60-70 mph. Very weird to me. I have no idea what this louder honing sound is. It sounds much like when you take a finger and rub it on a glass. It resonates to a loud humm. Do you think there might be something rubbing against the tire? I checked but couldn't see anything without a lift. Also it seems to only be coming from my drivers side ( left) rear tire. Any idea's to what this is would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Beau

The lloyd mats are sick. I got mine with silver piping to match the silver package I have inside, black carpet, blue PORSCHE stitching. I must say the quality is very good on these mats. They also have nice clamps to hold the mat in place better than OEM. I would definetely recommend them.

BUy the Lloyd ones from Suncoast. Best price and great quality with a choice of embroidery.

Conti's are garbage, Pirelli's are sticky but not durable and wear really fast in the rears. I stick with Michelin's. I run either Pilot Sport PS2 or I have tried Pilot Sport AS Plus which are also very good. Go to tirerack.com and read reviews. The PS2 are the best tires money can buy. If there was a better tire I would have bought them.

i do appreciate the tip about the TSB's. I wasn't looking for a recommendation on my own car. I was just curious what other people here had on theirs, as conversation about cars.

its very even tread wear. I can't figure it out. I only notice the sounds from 76mph to 80mph. It seems to go away over 80 and under 76 or so. Very odd to me.

How is the tire wear? Is it thin on the inside tread? Is it a little high and low from tread to tread?

not sure what your price point is but I would look at a 911. you can get a great example for a great price these days. Either a 996 or 997 depending on your budget would be a great choice

I'm ready for a weekend car, AGAIN. My last Porsche was in 1985 - memories that have been long lasting. I've done my test rides of Corvette, Z4 and now down to either Boxster Base or S with or without Tip. The JURY is still out on the TIP vs Manual, the Base vs S is matter of $$. However, is there more to S than Red brake calipers, +30HP, 5 vs 6 speed manual, and a sport suspension? What am I missing?

Question: If any of you have turned back 03 or 04 Base or S on a lease or trade, what was the difference between what they gave you and what Kelly, Edmunds or NADA indicated the value was? (So far NADA seems most realistic on value).

I see a lot of cars listed on Autotrader and eBay at ridiculous high values and I'm trying to figure out if these guys are either fishing or these values are real? I notice that very few cars are sold on eBay (completed auctions) - I figure this is either local sales or the Boxster market is very soft and even the realistic prices are not met.

I'm located in South Florida and there seems to be a never ending stream of OFF LEASE cars. I've kind of focused my search at private sales as the few Boxsters I've seen at dealers (and I confirmed the CarFax and they are off lease turn_backs) are beat to crap. My concern is that lease cars don't get TLC and after getting scared to death about IMS, transmission and major $$ brake replacement prices, I'm being extra cautious. I've focused on cars with less than 50K as the 60K maintenance is a killer. I have found a local Indy mechanic who specializes in Porsche and can do a PPI - which should almost make the odds of a buying a problematic car a bit in my favor.

Advice or Help is very welcome! (I've read a lot, and Mike Fockes' buying guides have been very helpful).

The pads he has on the car are for racing clearly-they will screach but will stop on a dime. I would recommend getting Hawk performance pads for street-low dust. I have Pagid OEM ceramic pads and let me tell you.....cleaning the rims daily is a pain. Go to hawks website and check them out. I am getting them next time on my 2003 996

Hey guys,

so ive had my car for a couple of weeks now, having a great time, but because the guy i brought it off had it mostly as a weekend track toy, its set up for track work more than street driving, so im wanting to change a few things, and wonder if anyone here can provide me a little direction or suggestions of where to buy parts that i need.

firstly the Suspension.

the car needs a new left rear Trailing arm (as the bush is worn)

needs 2 front stabilizer links also.

am i best to just get my dealer to do this work and source the parts? or are these parts that i can source myself online and are easy to fit?

secondly Brakes:

the pads he has are really heavy metal based for track work, so every time i touch the brakes i get that metalic screech. I just want to put standard pads on there for road driving, and i'll just get the discs skimmed/replaced (if nessecary), i wonder if anyone has any suggestions of a decent pad for the car that wont be noisy? or if the OEM is the only option? and if so, can anyone advise where i am best to source these?

Cheers

Looney

U had the same thing and the Porsche dealer told me that I couldn't get the info over the phone but said as long as I came in with the car they would print out the service history on it for a full report of what was done. They need to verify you are the owner of the vehicle. They shouldn't be asking for the original owner for service history....unless it had all of his info and they didn't want to give that to you. If this is the case you can ask them to block out the original owners info such as name and address and just show the VIN and service history.

Hope this helps,

Beau

I just called the local dealership to see if by the Vin # they could tell me if there was any RMS or IMS work done on my vehicle in the past.

The guy told me that unless I got written permission from the pervious owner/owners, that by law, they can't release any history records for the vehicle.

I told him I didn't need a print out or anything just him telling me over the phone if these items were in the history of the car and I got the same response.

Is this correct? Do I actually have to track down the first owner from 1999 to be able to figure out what all has been done to my car?

The only thing car fax shows is "vehicle serviced at dealership" on several occations but doesn't say for what (im assuming most of them were regular maintenance).

its probably just our fine chicago highways. I dont have very many miles on my tires. maybe 5000 miles. At least 8/32 left. I just have noticed it more and more recently. Maybe its just the roads. I am hoping that is the case because I sure can't figure it out.

I get a similar sound on a much narrower band of about 67 to 69mph. I attribute it to mostly worn out Pirelli Pzeros and was going to wait and see what it was like after new rubber. Or maybe it's just our fine Chicago area highways....

I have a 2003 996 c2. I have Michelin Pilot Sport AS plus in the rear of my car. I noticed that at about 70-80mph I get a loud honing sound coming from the rear tires. It seems to go away at 80+ mph and goes away again at 60-70 mph. Very weird to me. I have no idea what this louder honing sound is. It sounds much like when you take a finger and rub it on a glass. It resonates to a loud humm. Do you think there might be something rubbing against the tire? I checked but couldn't see anything without a lift. Also it seems to only be coming from my drivers side ( left) rear tire. Any idea's to what this is would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Beau

that sucks. why the hell does it cost so much.....hmmm let me think.....because they can and there is no other solution. I have a friend who is an electronics genius. I will talk to him and see if there is a radio shack workaround that he can make. If there is I will let you know and post the procedure here. I never give up. I will work on this forever until I find a solution that is inexpensive. I really enjoy the sound of the current bose system I have and dont feel like shelling out thousands. I would rather shell out thousands on my home system....which i already have.

i found this online but not sure on the cost. Take a look and tell me what you think. The attachment is a .pdf

mObridge is roughly equivalent to the other solutions out there like NAV-TV and Dension.

It's a sad fact that all of them cost more than the iPod you hook up to them. As of now, there's no cheap solution for getting your sound on the optical bus.

Either shell out $450-600 or buy an inline FM modulator, those are the choices. Maybe one day that'll change, but I'd say this thread is dead.

Mark

This is exactly what was happening to me on my 2003 996 c2. I got the sender unit replaced and no more issues. It is scary when it says oil pressure failure and the pressure goes to rock bottom. Get the sender replaced. Have them hook up a manual guage to see if it is trully the sender thats the problem. 99% sure its probably your sender unit

2003 C4S once and a while the oil pressure goes to zero and i get the beep and warning on the dash,then it goes back to normal,does it a few times in a row then it may not do it for weeks,i have heard of this problem before from others,should i just change the sending unit?

Thanks

Albert

i found this online but not sure on the cost. Take a look and tell me what you think. The attachment is a .pdf

I really wish there was a solution. 80K car. Expensive MOST stereo with no input capability. So if I were to go get a new head unit they would have to rewire the whole **** car away from MOST? Is there any other head units that run on most that can hook up to the current wiring and of course have an AUX input?

Can someone post photos of what the connections look like? If they're standard-size optical connections, I'm pretty sure that convertor I posted above will work.

That's what the fiber optic cabling looks like, sorry I don't have a better picture. The clear end looks like a plastic Optical Mini connector, and it fits with a locking pin into the black connector on the right. There are two holes in the black connector which are for in and out optical connections, and the black connector is the standard interface on every device in the loop (nav, CDC, amp, HU). The Optical Mini could easily be converted to TOSlink with a cheap adapter.

Unfortunately, MOST audio and data transport are on the optical bus so you need a box that converts from digital to optical and speaks MOST; the Ambery does the former but not the latter. Devices that do both exist (Dension, NAV-TV, Dice, etc) but can't be had for less than $450, which is about $350 more than my 60 GB video iPod is worth.

If someone came up with a very simple AUX input/charger for iPod that could live in the MOST loop and cost me less than $100 (hell, even $150) I'd go buy it this minute. I can use the iPod to select my songs, my PCM2's interface sucks anyway.

Why Porsche couldn't have just put a **** minijack on the face of my radio I'll never know. Maybe one day I'll crack it open in solder in one of my own. Don't hold your breath though! :rolleyes:

Mark

A2010_Porsche_CDR23_24_Application_Note_v2.pdf

I really wish there was a solution. 80K car. Expensive MOST stereo with no input capability. So if I were to go get a new head unit they would have to rewire the whole **** car away from MOST? Is there any other head units that run on most that can hook up to the current wiring and of course have an AUX input?

Can someone post photos of what the connections look like? If they're standard-size optical connections, I'm pretty sure that convertor I posted above will work.

That's what the fiber optic cabling looks like, sorry I don't have a better picture. The clear end looks like a plastic Optical Mini connector, and it fits with a locking pin into the black connector on the right. There are two holes in the black connector which are for in and out optical connections, and the black connector is the standard interface on every device in the loop (nav, CDC, amp, HU). The Optical Mini could easily be converted to TOSlink with a cheap adapter.

Unfortunately, MOST audio and data transport are on the optical bus so you need a box that converts from digital to optical and speaks MOST; the Ambery does the former but not the latter. Devices that do both exist (Dension, NAV-TV, Dice, etc) but can't be had for less than $450, which is about $350 more than my 60 GB video iPod is worth.

If someone came up with a very simple AUX input/charger for iPod that could live in the MOST loop and cost me less than $100 (hell, even $150) I'd go buy it this minute. I can use the iPod to select my songs, my PCM2's interface sucks anyway.

Why Porsche couldn't have just put a **** minijack on the face of my radio I'll never know. Maybe one day I'll crack it open in solder in one of my own. Don't hold your breath though! :rolleyes:

Mark

I think you should take a picture of your Porsche manual that states the car is equipped with ABS and air bags. What is this the 70's-80's when cars didn't come with air bags or ABS? Its a Porsche. You should also take some pictures and send it to her so she knows what she will never have. just kidding on that one. It is seriously amazing that these insurance companies hassle their customers like this. Is this a large insurance conglomerate? I would like to know so I never go with them. I use the Hartford. Very good service with them.

thats exactly what I was looking for. I was just curious. I know things can get complicated and expensive with forced induction. Wouldn't it have been cheaper to just sell your car and pick up a used turbo? I have to assume the 13K difference would have been cheaper to go with a turbo and then Mod from there? of course I could be wrong?

beauar, when you say "everything", i think you mean just the supercharger kit? please note that i have to dyno the car still so i will clue you in on whats spent so far.

tpc charger kit $7500

3rd radiator $500

labor $5000

_________________

roughly $13k

dyno will be another $500 for a three runs

pics will arrive soon. car is at the body shop for another 5 days for the gt2 wing.

I dont have a response except 2 things

1. How much was everything with install?

2. Take some pics and post them up. I am seriously considering a supercharger kit as well

more recently installed a supercharger and first time driving it feels like a totally different car. heres what im working with currently:

02 996 C2

- tpc supercharger kit

- ecu remapped by tpc

- 3rd radiator installed

- lightweight flywheel

- stage 1 clutch

prior to install of supercharger car had all the same modifications except the ecu was not remapped, that came with charger install. i know i have to get her to a dyno and check a number of things but my short test drive i experienced a "floggy" first gear and super low power at lower rpm ranges (2300 or less). im pretty sure its the ecu map. i have a durametric kit but i dont think i can write/flash the ecu. any ideas on how i can reflash the ecu myself or fix my first gear problem?

wondering what the car is like? its wicked past 3500 rpm :thumbup: she still needs her differential work done. got any clue where i can pick up a true lsd other than the oem gt3 or quaife option.

best,

tecra :renntech:

i think its pretty simple. What is the price difference? If it were me and there was a huge difference in price and not performance.....I would opt to go with the C2 and then spend the money at a performance shop for a new exhaust, intake, suspension etc. Of course I am assuming there isn't that big of a difference in performance between a c2 and c2s. weight out the prices

Hi!

First post on this forum... :)

I am a 41-year old looking to buy my first Porsche. As many others, I've dreamed about a 911 since I was a kid and now it seems I could have the possibility to fulfil my dream.

The plan is to replace my current boat with a Porsche during next year. I will use it maybe not as a daily driver (for that purpose the Volvo does a good job... :rolleyes: ) but will try to drive a couple of days a week to work and maybe one or two track days over a year.

I've narrowed it down to 997, 2006 or newer. So far, I've only looked for C2S cars but I've realised that at least here in Sweden, there is quite a substantial difference in price between the C2 and C2S for an otherwise similarily spec:ed car. Even though I imagine the difference in price will still be there when I sell the car in the future, the entry ticket for me would be lower which could be a nice thing.

So, could anyone please describe what kind of differences I would experience between the C2 and the C2S. My guess is that the bigger engine would give some enhanced driveability (higher available torque) but the extra 30bhp on top would more seldom be noticable...? Anything else between theses version that needs to be considered? I think here in Europe the C2S has PASM as standard, whereas the C2:s don't. But a lot of used C2:s seem to have that as option anyway.

Thanks in advance for any input, best regards,

Erik, Sweden

exactly. I have an 2003 C2 with 45K miles and not one issue as of yet. I drive it very hard every single day! I have no leaks or any issues. For the most part these cars are built like tanks. Like a German Panzer. If you have to worry about every little thing you will never enjoy the car. Should I drive it hard today or is something going to break? come on. Drive it hard and have fun. Life is too short to worry about the little things. If something happens with my car I will have to deal with it....but till then I am not going to sweat it and am going to drive it hard and do all the proper maintenance. I do know that people who have issues with these cars IN GENERAL leave them stored for winter and because of the long periods of sitting dry rot can take place causing RMS leaks. If you are going to leave it stored I recommend starting it and taking it for a drive every couple days or you might be asking for trouble. These cars like to be driven unlike some other exotics/supercars

I have a 02 C4S with 92K on it and it runs like a scalded dog! No leaks of any type and no history of any major repairs, just all recommended maintenance performed on time or early. Like any machine, they can break but I personally don’t feel you should avoid a car you really seem to like if you do a thorough check of the car before buying.

One thing to remember with these forums is that no ones reports when the car is running perfect, it is mostly a compilation of problems. If you were to take any other car forum you will find similar threads on issues relating to that specific model. Granted, it appears to be a relatively high number of failures with IMS issues but to date I have no seen any official numbers. I suspect it is a small number.

Bottom line, do your homework, buy the most car you can afford and enjoy the hell out of it.

B)

I have the same smell on my car. Its a 2003 C2 with Michelin PS2 in front and Pilot sport AS plus in rear which I recently switched to. Great tires. I haven't found a better tire yet. The smell on these Michelin's I believe is the same as what you guys are experiencing. Nothing to worry about. I thought it was my clutch at first but its definetely the tires.

I've noticed the same on my 2000 Boxster S with Kumho Ecsta tires. I suspect the wider tires on Porsches attribute to additional scrubbing action with the road causing the tire to heat up more. Even when I drive my VW harder than my Boxster, I don't get nearly as much burnt rubber smell.

14 hours of work would involve them going to a bar to get drunk and then passing out and then fixing the car. WTF? How can a job like this that involves removing the transmission take this long? You are getting screwed. My dealer can take the whole car apart in less time. I was quoted like 5 1/2 hours if it ever needed to be done. I am only speaking to the RMS leak. I would only get one done and then submit another claim for the extra time and pay the small deductible.

1. I have a pretty reputable warranty from: https://www.warrantydirect.com

2. My 01 Boxster with 50,000 miles had a minor RMS leak and MAF malfunction. So I took it to my local porsche dealer.

3. The warranty only covers for something like 9.2 hours of work while the dealer charges for 14 hours of work?

4. I have to pay the difference of something around $750.

Is that normal practice or am I being made a fool? Sorry, just wondering. Any advice on lowering the cost of repairs in the future? Any other reputable repair shops around Los Angeles that you guys might recommend? Thanks!

I checked ebay with no luck. I want the ones that have the porsche lettering on them. I saw these pedals a while back on 6speedonline.com but now I can't find out who to contact.

I have been looking all over the internet for these pedals. Any idea's where I can pick these up? Anyone here have these installed? Any input?

Thanks,

Beau

I have tried a bunch of different tires. Pirelli Pzero Rosso's are garbage!!! I would have to say the best summer tires are the Michelin Pilot Sport Ps2. I have them on my car but they are also the most expensive. go to Tirerack.com to see all reviews on tires. They agree with me. I have Michelin Pilot Sport All season plus tires on my c2 right now and they have been nothing short of fantastic. Also mcuh less expensive than the ps2's. The Pirelli's just take forever to heat up to get grip and wear way too fast!!! My P zero's also had a sidewall bubble from stress. Never again would I purchase a pirelli tire. Do yourself a favor and get either the Michelin PS2 or Michelin AS plus tire. You won't regret it. They also wear better and last longer than some other comparable tires. Also your tires shouldn't cost anywhere near $920 a pop. More like $900 a pair. Do yourself a favor and go to www.tirerack.com to compare tires. You will see the PS2's are one of the best tires...and so is the Pilot Sport AS plus. i also believe they can ship the tires anywhere in the world for you.

At the risk of starting a huge debate, I would like to ascertain what brand/type of tyres you are running on your 997.1.

I have Michelins on at present, down under the replacement rears at about AUD$1000 a pop (or about US$920 :D ). Alternatively I can get Yokohama Avans for AUD$500 each.

Any suggestions on types to avoid and ones we love.

Regards

Chris

2005 Blue 997.1 Carrera Coupe, Manual, RoW

In my experience if the clutch is very heavy it is a sign that the clutch is bad. it should cost around $1300 US to have a new kit with installation at a independent shop. The clutch is made by Sachs. My shop charges me around $90 an hour for labor here in chicago. I would get it taken care of soon as you don't want to get stranded somewhere with a clutch that is burned out.

This is my first post. This has been a very informative web site. I changed my spark plugs last week! DYI posts were my motivation for trying it in the first place ... and not giving up. Only 6.5 hours and 1 bruised set of knuckles.

I have a 2003 996 C2 Cab, 6 spd 70,000 km's I live in Canada but imported the car from the US.

I took the advise and tried to search before I posted but perhaps missed this item.

Since purchasing this car I always felt the clutch was much stiffer than any car I've ever owned. While it took more force to operate the pedal always travelled smoothly. A few days ago I notice my clutch pedal had a strange feel to it as I depressed it the first few inches. It feels as if it is sticking, causing it to not travel smoothly. It was affecting my launch, making it very rough. I also noticed in 3rd and 4th gear that my clutch is slipping. I'm at 70,000 kms and as far as I know the clutch has never been changed. My guess is my clutch is shot but the pedal weirdness seams a little to coincidental. Can a bad clutch hydraulic cylinder be causing my clutch to not fully seat and therfore slip?

I have a 03 996 and same thing for me. Mine makes a sound like rubber rubbing against metal when going up.

The rear spoiler on my 05 Carrera S makes a lot of noise when going up or down. Is this normal?