beauar

go jump on the freeway to 76 miles an hour and see if it goes up. Decelerate to 37mph and it should go down. if it doesn't go back down then you got a problem

i blieve the proper coolant is pentosin

i have noticed that the coolant level in the reservoir is below the min line but there is no warning light on the dash

is this a problem?

i noticed while checking what sounds like a fan belt squeal on my 2003 996 that i bought 1 week ago

i assume that i just need to top up and monitor the level (i have seen some other postings that could suggest bigger problems so I hope that this will solve the problem)

can someone please recommend a compatible coolant for a 996

seems a little high to me. 2001 models don't usually go for that much. I think it should be more in the $40,000-$42000 range. Look up blue book value on it. If it was a 2003 it would be priced correctly

Was browsing on Autotrader today and found this very sweet Turbo back east.

2001 with 15,750k miles for $46,999.

Seems like a great price considering the mileage.

What do you Turbo guys think?

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=u...;standard=false

I think you should do the Fabspeed muffler bypass pipes. It will sounds really badass......although I haven't done mine yet

So guy's the time is near,

europe is calling Dublin to Poland in 4 weeks & 4381 miles.

996 is looking sweet and driving sweet, got a major very major service done,

everything I cloud think off even stuff that really did not need doing.

But now I have a very bad Exhaust Noise:(flutter/rattle sound at low rev’s from driver’s side exhaust. maybe loose muffler)

it was there from when I first got the car, but was was not that bad. now it's louder?

So heres the thing....

My indy say's we can put the mufflers on from a 996 which is in a scrap yard with front end fire damage but engine is fine?

to see if it is the muffler if so happy days. I don't really like the idea of this 1. because my exhaust is a sports one very deep.

2. what possible damage cloud the scrap yard one have? not to mention the sound.

What would you guys do should I just take the scrap yard swap? or just buy a nice new Design Tex muffler from www.design911.co.uk

free from any possible problems?

This I know is a stupid question but I running out of time, and am really stuck?

these are the mufflers available from the site.

Exhaust Muffler / Silencer Sport Super Sound Porsche 996

Code: 99622010123

Exhaust Muffler / Silencer Sport Super Sound

DesignTek Sports SUPER SOUND exhaust made from High Grade stainless steel. Price: €802.40

or

Exhaust Muffler / Silencer Sport OE Style. Porsche 996

Code: 99622096330S

Replacement Rear sport exhaust set OE style. Polished stainless steel. With TUV/EEC approval.

Made by DANSK Price: €772.06

Thanks in advance.

I just did this last week with a shop vac. I couldn't believe how many leaves were in there. Your pictures look exactly like mine did. I really don't notice a difference in running temps though

Just to give you some idea of the kind of crap that accumulates, here are a few pictures from a 1999 Boxster. It did not appear the radiators had ever been cleaned out.

Here are a couple from my clean out event on my 04 C4S

After:

I know I could probably do it if I had the right tools here....which I don't. Any ballpark on what a shop would charge?

you can really do it yourself. I just did mine a couple weeks ago. A little time consuming, but it was worth it. #1 and #4 was a pain, but you can do it. You can get the DIY right off this board.

hi all,

my 2003 996 C2 has 40,000 miles on it now. i was thinking it might be time to change the spark plugs. I am not sure how long they last and know it is a pain to change yourself. How much would a private shop charge to change the spark plugs.....curious? I think the car has the original plugs. How many miles shoudl these be changed?'

Thanks,

Beau from Chicago

Its funny how some guys want to drag race all the time just because I have a 911. The 911 isn't the best drag car but its because it is better suited for the race track. I really need to get the short shift kit because the throw between 1st and second is so large I lose alot of time. Most of the cars that try to race me are Nissans, BMW's. The guys with fast cars usually dont want to race everyone they see. I have had some runs with Honda S2000's and M3's on the highway. I raced with a S2000 and let me tell you that thing is fast. I think the guy had it modded. I beat him but barely. I usually make a deal with myself that I will only race a M3, Vette or something exotic. Other than that it is a waste of time. I see the ****box rice burners and laugh at them. While my 996 is quick there will always be a car that can beat it in a straight line. In response to weaving in and out of heavy traffic the car dominates most everything out there.......but I don't feel like getting killed. I am not a dumb 18 year old looking to ***** off people.

Beau

I have noticed that the Porsche brings out the best in me, I think it is a great car. There are however many drivers of some specific cars, Mustang, corvette, Subaru and Mercs that get very angry, and always want to race or pull up and rev their engin while I'm trying to cruiz in my Porsche. Please take the Poll and if you have any good stories go for it!

Cheers.

Brian

see when the clutch was replaced. These tend to go at about 30-50,000 miles

$29500, automatic, new rear tires 9000 miles ago. I'll get a check on the rotors and pads. E

ouch.....it is an automatic. I doubt you want that. You really want the 6 speed manual. Also 9000 miles means that the car is probably getting close to needing new tires. The tires typically last about 15K. $29K is a decent price

$29500, automatic, new rear tires 9000 miles ago. I'll get a check on the rotors and pads. E

also.....how much are they askig for the 996 with 25,000 miles? What options does it have? is it manual or automatic? I would make sure to check the brake pads and rotors as well as take good hard look at the tires as tires can be very expensive

Sorry for asking but I must. I found a 2003 911 with 25000 miles. All the history. The RMS was replaced at ~7000 miles. Very clean car but after reading all the bad news should I even buy the car? The RMS isn't leaking now. Did they fix the issue? The dealer is offering a aftermarket warranty for $1200. They claim it will cover any issue with the motor. Really should I just buy a 997? Thanks E :o

nothing wrong with the 996. I also have a 2003. It has been a great car and I have had absolutely no issues. I got mine with 25,000 miles and now have 41000. I believe the 997 also can have RMS issues. Regardless....an RMS issue isn't that big of a deal. It is a leaking seal. It is a problem if not remedied but your car had it fixed so no worries. I would get the extended warranty if it is only $1200 just for piece of mind. Not that many cars have had RMS issues. I have friends with 996's and not one has had any issues. I think it is just a hot topic because of people who are the rare % posting issues.

Sorry for asking but I must. I found a 2003 911 with 25000 miles. All the history. The RMS was replaced at ~7000 miles. Very clean car but after reading all the bad news should I even buy the car? The RMS isn't leaking now. Did they fix the issue? The dealer is offering a aftermarket warranty for $1200. They claim it will cover any issue with the motor. Really should I just buy a 997? Thanks E :o

I have a 2003 C2 with 18 inch rims. 225/40/18 front, 285/30/18 rear. I have had a couple of different tires. I would steer away from the Pirelli Pzero Rosso tires. They wear really fast and take a while to warm up. I only run Michelin's now with PS2's in the front. The ps2 is a great tire but also really expensive. A friend recommended the Michelin Pilot sport AS Plus. I picked up a set and have loved them ever since. They fell much like the Ps2 and offer better traction in colder weather since they are an all season tire. Even if you are running the car in the summer only I still recmmend the PS AS plus tires. I have found no feel difference between these and the PS2's. This is just my opinion of course but they are a great tire. Not to mention they are only half the price of ps2's. Stick with Michelin. I have been buying their tires for years with great success. I have gone out on a limb with other such as Pirelli and was very disappointed with the performance and wear characteristics. If money wasn't an object I would go with the PS2. However.....the PS AS plus tire is still awesome.

im still in the process of picking a tire, boy what a lot to think about! ive narrowed down alot of choices. i am no longer conerned with "n" ratings, though i understand and appreciate peoples concerns for it. i am no longer interested in only OEM approved tires, there are so many other tires out there that are comparably capable. i do have the following concerns though:

-what is more important, retaining the same rpm as stock, the same overall diameter as stock, or just that the overall diameter front and back is within a few percentage points? by this i mean, stock tires have an ~25" diameter, if i go to ~26" all around, will that throw things off?

-i recall reading the owners manual that i shouldnt be running an r-compound tire without some oil system mods, to prevent starvation. would a tire with a wear rating below 200 UTQG be to sticky for the stock oiling system to continue to pump and lube? the MPS PS2 is listed at 220, im looking at a few tires that range from 140 (the hankook ventus rs-3) to 180 (kumho XS). i do autocross (infrequently 2-3 a year) and do open track days (2-3 a year). im a total novice, so im probably harder on my tires than i need to be, even if im not driving quickly. id like something that will be enjoyable on the track, at a reasonable cost that if i had to replace the rears every 1.5 years, i wouldnt be breaking the bank.

-i have an unmodified (suspension wise) 2002 c4s, with 15mm spacers rear/7 mm spacers front. the previous owner of my car installed 245/35/18 MPS PS2's up front, with a 295/30/18 rear. i researched it, and most people suggested the widest tire possible on the fronts. so id like to stick by that. even with the wider tire, im still at ~25" diameter all around. in order to find tires my next set of tires, ive just been searching by size for 245/35/18, and then looking for a rear that i can accomodate. I can get a Kumho XS front in 245 wide, by is it going to be feasible to run the 315 wide rear on the stock 11" wheel with a 15mm spacer rub issues? to wide of a tire for an 11" wheel? tirerack specs suggest the tire can be mounted on anything up to an 11.5" wheel...

-next choice would be kumho MX, but they really dont stack up at all compared to the others on my list.

-any thoughts on the nitto invo's?

-Im really liking the nitto nt-05. this is the tire i want. cheap, sticky, looks to be daily drive-able. i do truely daily drive my car, everywhere, in all conditions. they are a ~26" diameter tire. this refers again to my initial questions about overall diameter. would this work? thanks for the input-

-also, i would like to eventually modify my suspension, not necessarily a massive drop (im not doing the kind that is more aesthetic than functional), but an engineered solution to stiffening it up, reducing body roll, and getting the wheels to stay on the ground... therefore there is again cause for concern with overall diameter.

Thanks for the input and help! :thankyou:

i like your current rims much better than the turbo twist. If you do want to get these turbo twist rims...obviously make sure they are the right size. I think you have 19's right? I thought the turbo twist rims were usually 17,18 only

the pressure should build with increased RPM's. The reading on oil pressure should be at about 3.5 bar with normal driving. under heavy acceleration it should go to the 5 bar range to lubricate the engine. It seems weird that your oil pressure goes down when your RPM's are going up. Am i understanding this right?

loren is exactly right. You need a new clutch. As you wear it down the clutch becomes more difficult to push. This happened with mine as well. Clutch's tend to last around 30-50K miles depending on driving

sounds about right to me. Depends on what pads you are getting and who makes the rotors. It sounds like a good deal to me. I know I was quoted about $220 a rotor by a company who OEMS for porsche. It sounds like a pretty good deal. I have a 996 C2 so I am not sure if your rotors might be cheaper. I believe they are the same cross drilled rotors as mine though

thanks for your input. I think I am going to wait a few years and then pickup a used 997 twin turbo or GT3RS. or maybe a that time a new turbo...who knows. I guess for the time being I will get stomped.....but at least I know what needs to be done. I mainly bought my car for the handling, feedback, looks, driveability, NOT FOR DRAG RACING. Its just these douche bags in M3's, corvette's and Sti's giving me problems and always wanting to try to take me at a light. I have however settled a bet with my friend. He can beat me all day on straights but on a race track is a different story. I think for now I will stick with my C2 and anytime he talks crap I will invite him to my local track for a hot lap.....I might even pickup a Chevelle SS 454 with a blower just for my M3 and Vette racing....its not worth it.

i plan on upgrading the suspension pretty soon.

Thanks for your help

Beau

that seems pretty crazy. I know guys with M3's and Vette's that dont have to spend neaarly as much for the HP gains. I guess Porsche's can't really be tuned without big bucks. I suspect its because of the small engine compartment. My buddy put a vortec supercharger on his vette for like $3000...i actually think it was closer to $2500

The difference between your friend's Corvette and your C2 is technology. Your flat six is a pretty unique engine with exotic materials, high compression, and other goodies that extract optimum performance while remaining efficient, reliable, and emissions-friendly. Adding forced induction to the motor costs cubic dollars because of the rare engineering characteristics that need to be accounted for. A Corvette is big displacement and pushrods, technology that's been complimented by widespread aftermarket modifications for decades; Porsche's engines tend to undergo significant changes every product cycle.

Getting more Porsche usually means buying another car. Turbos are an exception, since it's relatively easy to re-map for higher boost, but it's always at a cost to reliability and drivability.

Good news for you is that Porsches are dirt cheap right now. If you want more car (and are willing to extend your budget a bit) you could feasibly sell yours and get into something newer and meaner. One caveat--any Porsche you get will be engineered for superior handling, less so straight-line performance. Latter-day M3s and STis have comparable horsepower and power-to-weight ratios, so you're playing a numbers game that's tough to win. If you're looking to smoke tires and outrun cars from zero-to-sixty, maybe a Porsche isn't the best tool for the job.

Mark

any good shop would use a guage to check the thickness. How many miles do you have on the rotors? Because the rotors are cross drilled you are going to need to bring the car to a specialist who knows how to resurface them. Midas wont resurface your rotors....even though its straight forward. the sensors in the brakes go off when you are approaching replacement. They give you plenty of miles and time to get new ones. I just did my pads and got Pagid street pads. DO NOT GET RACE pads if you dont want skreeching and squealing. Get a street compound. you can drive to your buddies. In fact you can probably drive for a couple of months but I wouldn't recommend it. Another thing is if the rears are looking bad what do your fronts look like? Rears last twice as long as the fronts. If you don't change the pads you run the risk of seriously damaging the rotors with grooves and its dangerous obviously.

My brake light came on as the rear brakes are worn out and the sensors came on.

I am going to change the pads (for sure), following Loren's post in the DIY section. However, I'd like not to change the rotors, yes I know that I should take care of the car that is why I am asking the following:

1- All mechanics tell me I should change the rotors as well. In this forum I have seen that maybe is not needed (watch for cracks etc.) Do I have to change them for sure?

2 - What happens if, following whatever advice from point 1, it is indicated that I change them, but I don't? Does it become a question of noise, vibration, or worse?

3 - Can I drive the car AT ALL with the brake warning light on, driving carefully and using gears to reduce speed? Planning to take it to my buddy's house he has a good setup in his garage, but he's 50 miles of freeway away.

Thanks for help in advance; trying to do the minimum to keep the daily driver going, no performance track days here. Car is 99 C2 Cab.

to put my opinion in perspective here is what I am running. I have a 2003 996 C2 with 225/40/18 front, 285/30/18 rear. They are the light alloy rims. I have stock suspension. I live in chicago where the roads are some of the worst....period. The car is very tight and you can feel every crack. This is completely normal with the low profile tires. If you want a smoother ride you should change to 17 inch with a higher wall. They make a huge difference. the feedback in the steering is something that every driver should feel. It is a sign that Porsche knows how to build a true sportscar. I can't imagine a day without my 996. Simply the best car out there( for the money of course). I have driven vette's and wouldnt give my car up for a second.

that seems pretty crazy. I know guys with M3's and Vette's that dont have to spend neaarly as much for the HP gains. I guess Porsche's can't really be tuned without big bucks. I suspect its because of the small engine compartment. My buddy put a vortec supercharger on his vette for like $3000...i actually think it was closer to $2500

Hi,

I have a 2003 996 C2 STOCK and am looking for some direction on getting more HP out of the car. A friend of mine has a M3 and is starting to annoy me when he can pull away from me on straights. I tend to get beat up on by guys with WRX Sti's and mildly tuned M3's...sometimes even stock M3's. I essentially want to lay the smack down with my Porsche hand. My goal is to get around 50-100 more HP. What is the best way to accomplish this.

I was going to do the fabspeed muffler bypass, chip remapping, intake(would like some recommendations if possible. I saw the K&N and doubt it really produces 23 HP+ come on). What else can I do to stay within a $3000 budget?? Do I really need to fork over $10K for a TPC supercharger? Seems pretty ridiculous that a guy with a corvette can pickup a supercharger for like $2K and a 996 one is over $10K. Any thoughts on maybe putting a new cam in and heads( even though this is going over my budget? There has to be some guys out there that have very fast Carrera 2's that can run with some of these mildly tuned M3's right?

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated,

Although I have not modded a Porsche, I have modded other cars and my experience has been that the gains seen on bolt ons are marginal at best unless your car has force induction already. If you want to see real HP gain, I am afraid you will need to go with force induction like a turbo or supercharger. If you are going to dump 10k for a supercharger, my advice to you is to just save up and just buy a 996 turbo and sell your existing car. There is a lot of work involved in turnning a non force induction car into a force induction car if you are going to do it the right way.

Hi,

I have a 2003 996 C2 STOCK and am looking for some direction on getting more HP out of the car. A friend of mine has a M3 and is starting to annoy me when he can pull away from me on straights. I tend to get beat up on by guys with WRX Sti's and mildly tuned M3's...sometimes even stock M3's. I essentially want to lay the smack down with my Porsche hand. My goal is to get around 50-100 more HP. What is the best way to accomplish this.

I was going to do the fabspeed muffler bypass, chip remapping, intake(would like some recommendations if possible. I saw the K&N and doubt it really produces 23 HP+ come on). What else can I do to stay within a $3000 budget?? Do I really need to fork over $10K for a TPC supercharger? Seems pretty ridiculous that a guy with a corvette can pickup a supercharger for like $2K and a 996 one is over $10K. Any thoughts on maybe putting a new cam in and heads( even though this is going over my budget? There has to be some guys out there that have very fast Carrera 2's that can run with some of these mildly tuned M3's right?

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated,

Porsche's are known to have faulty electronics. My 03 996 C2 has the same type of issue with the amp. I have to turn off the car and restart it every once in 6 months or so. I have checked all the connections and can't find the culprit. If it happens again drive straight to porsche since you have it under warranty. I would try to make sure it says that on the screen while you are there.

This morning when I started up my 2008 C2 coupe, the PCM screen displayed the following error message: "System Error: Navigation System, Amplifier Not Available." I've attempted to attach a picture that I took of the screen.

Has anyone seen this error message before and/or know how to fix it?

After this message was displayed, the Navigation System didn't work and I couldn't get any sound from the radio/cd player. The good news is that when I turned the car off and then on again, the PCM operated normally. However, I'm afraid that it could happen again.

Seems to me your amplifier located in the loggage compartment is faulty/disconnected. Open up the hood, and detach the cover on the bottom and make sure the wire attachement piece to the amp is secured (latch on the bottom of the block needs to be pushed up all the way for the plug to go in all the way). If that is okay, and it happens regularly, probably a bad amp, should be replaced under warranty and a 10 minute job.

Sam

let me guess your oil pressure light has been coming on or the oil pressure itself on the guage is high. These **** sender units are garbage. Luckily it is a quick easy minimal cost fix. I had to replace mine.

could it be a bad fuel pump? seems that the pump might not be pulling gas properly to feed the engine