beauar

I had a new clutch job on my 2003 C2 for about $1400. This includes all labor and parts. They used a Sachs clutch and bearing kit. My ind. shop charges $90 an hour labor and it took them about 4 hours. Give or take a couple of hundred dollars. I wouldn't spend more than $1600 us on a clutch job

Hey thanks guys. I believe my rotors are in good shape and the shop was looking to make a buck. They gave me a quote for $505 for new front pads installed with labor. They are out of their minds. The OEM pads cost somewhere around $340 +labor. WTF. The OEm is so much more expensive than the Pagid pads or other manufacturers. Do you recommend a certain brake pad? I am hoping there might be one out there that is better with reducing brake dust. I am open to any and all suggestions on brake pads

Thanks,

Beau

Go pick up a set of Michelin's. They are by far the best tires. I am referrring to the Pilot Sport PS2's or if you want an all season pick up the Pilot AS Plus tires. Avoid Pirelli, Conitnental's at all costs

Like larez2, it is not wise or safe to mix tires front to rear (or side to side for that matter) on any car, no less a high-performance car. Whether or not you track the car, the difference in performance characteristics between the two pair will create some risk for you when driving. All that said, I would recommend you get a set of F1's so that when they, and the front wear out, you can toss them all and get a better set of tires. I have a set of F1's on my Ford GT (2005) and they are legend in the GT community to be absolutely terrible tires. Unfortunately for GT owners, tires of the equivalent specs don't exist so many are forced to replace them with the same ones. Needn't be true for your Porsche.

Hi,

I have a set of 4 Goodyear F1 17's. After 20k, the front looks ok(maybe still have another 8~10k), but the rear tires look pretty much wornout. I am thinking to replace only the rear 2 tires at this time with a different brand(Sumitomo HTR3), and eventually replace the front ones when I wear them out in 1 year. Is there any problem with 2 different brands of tires??? This is my daily commute car, I dont track nor ever get wild on this car.

So I was crusiing around enjoying the weather when I got a brake wear indicator light. I took a look and the front pads were worn but the rear pads are okay. I talked to some guys at a shop and wanted them to order new front pads. They told me that they usually machine the rotors but since my rotors are cross drilled internally vented that I would need to replace them since they cant resurface them....kinda odd I thought. The guy suggested I just get the new pads for the car and leave the rotors alone. The question is can these rotors be machined? or if they can't do you know how long rotors generally last and aprox cost to replace all 4.

Any insight would be much appreciated. I am sure everyone has come across this at one time or another.

I have a 2003 996 C2

Thanks

Beau from Chicago

Okay. I have a 2003 996 carrera 2. Here is the 411 on the 911. My car has 285 size tires in the rear. The weight in the rear creates tons of traction because of engine placement behind and over wheels. These cars are stick and go.....not peel out cars. If you rev it high enough chances are you will get what is known as tire hop. It is an ugly feeling and I have actually seen guys break the inside tire wall doing it. The vibration is terrible. First gear is very high and shouldn't be messed with too hard. I shift at about 5000 rpm to second. You can easily blow the clutch by doing high rev drops in first gear. Overall the clutch is robust and precise on these cars. The clutch is made by Sachs...not porsche. Just so you know. You can burn through them easily with poor shifting. Not to worry though. The price of the job at most places for a new clutch, throwout bearing is between 1200-1500 including labor and parts. not too bad. I noticed that when my clutch was going the actual clutch pedal was crazy heavy because of bad throw out bearing. This is at least what I was told. If clutch feels really heavy and you start to have new muscles in your leg........this is a sign somethings not right. You probably didn't do any damage or at least minimal. Clutch smell is somewhat normal. They clutch burns off over time through wear and tear as you are probably aware. I wouldn't be too worried. Have fun with it and worst case down the road is a new clutch. Not that expensive for the fun you get form this incredible sports car.

Hope this helps,

Beau from Chicago

2006 C2 with just 11,000 miles on it. Was basically trying to show off, switched off the PSM and attempted to light up the rear wheels with an energetic getaway. Instead of getting wheelspin i got the revs/clutch balance wrong and got clutch spin (slip actually) and a strong odour of burned clutch. I wont do that again (i suspect the rear weight distribution makes it difficult to light up the rear wheels on takeoff anyway) but did i do any damage to the clutch? Still a slight odour of clutch. I would imagine these clutches are pretty robust but i hope i havent done any permanenet damage to it....BTW I am NOT 18 years old and I don"t drive a hopped-up Camaro with bright red seat belts and, yes, i am pretty embarrassed about posting this thread.

I have a 2003 996 carrera 2. The shift between first and second as you are aware is a long one. I sometimes can feel a little rough patch between the changes. i think this has something to do with the syncro mesh. it is noticeable in cold weather when interior and car in general isn't warmed up. I usually check into a a couple of gears before driving. Put the clutch down and check into all gears to give them lubrication. I found this helps. If you try to drive the car while it is cold without doing this you can cause some damage. Does anyone else out there have the same issue we have?