BoxSinit

I did clear it. I'm going to hook up the Durametric to see if it came back. Thanks.

Does anyone have anyone have any insight how I would get a code of 5525 when this isn't the norm for a Boxster?

Actually after taking a closer look at the snap shot of the fault code I posted above, it also directs the fault to part number 996.355.755.05.That's a 2002 Boxster ABS pump.

I also had a separate issue with my throttle body sticking after cleaning it. This is actually why I hooked up the Durametric. It's a 74mm throttle body so it's not a stock Boxster part. I got a few other codes along with it..I got that sorted out though..

Durametric..I do have the Softronic ECU flash. Now I'm wondering..What vehicles have a code sequence this high?

The code hasn't returned as of yet but I did get a code 5525. Through some research I've seen this code can be triggered from a bad MAF. My MAF is pretty old but it seems to work good. Also have been doing some work on my intake where I clean my MAF so I'm  not sure if it's related. 

Hey guys,

On the Durametric system there's an option to recalibrate the steering angle sensor. I tried it out today and it didnt work. I also got a ABS light on the dashboard. The fault code was Control Module Faulty 4607. I cleared the code and it hasn't come back for now (I havent driven the car yet). Any ideas on this? Is this an indication that my ABS module is faulty? This is for a 2002 Boxster S. Thanks in advance!

Yea, those clamps are a must. Glad you got done!

Yes. Initially, I was going to have a used engine installed. They source 2 engines which they felt were unacceptable. In the end, they took some parts from one of the sourced engines, some parts from my engine and various new parts (New crankshaft main bearings, New connecting rod main bearings, New connecting rod hardware, New timing chains, New timing guide rails including tensioner paddle, New IMS bearing and DOF, New oil separator, New oil cooler, gaskets and seals) . The crankshaft was from the used engine. I have most of details in my emails...       

Hey Guys,

I know its been a while but I wanted to follow up on the end result of my engines issues. The diagnosis that I was given was I had a cracked cylinder head which lead to engine failure either by lack of oil or oil contamination. I attached a few pictures of the failure and the engine itself (cracked head, damaged connecting rod and crankshaft. TuneRS  Motorsports in Coral Springs did an excellent job of rebuilding my engine. Car runs strong. I added their 4" underdrive pully, bypass pipes, Softronic software to my EVO intake and GHL muffler. I have a 997 plenum/74mm in the garage ready to be install then next, headers!  Thanks everyone  for you input!

I was going to take pictures of how clear intermixed was getting after the new oil cooler and flushing but my hands were too dirty at the time..

Here's the oil that was drained.

Here's some pictures of the chocolate shake and the then the oil that was drain. The oil looks pretty free of coolant to me. What do you think?

There wasn't. I drained the oil and there wasn't any. I changed the oil cooler and the chocolate milk shake started to go away. I'm not sure what happen but I'm having it checked out, so I'll know for sure. The oil was low maybe a third of a quart when it happen. When I first notice my oil was low, it was more than a quart. I'm having it checked by TuneRS Motorsports in Coral Springs. Stay tuned.

There wasn't. I drained the oil and there wasn't any. I changed the oil cooler and the chocolate milk shake started to go away. I'm not sure what happen but I'm having it checked out, so I'll know for sure. The oil was low maybe a third of a quart when it happen. When I first notice my oil was low, it was more than a quart. I'm having it checked by TuneRS Motorsports in Coral Springs. Stay tuned.

If there's truly no coolant in the oil, it's hard to imagine how oil in coolant could cause metal debris.

Well I pretty much thought the same.. Once I saw the metal. I knew it couldn't be anything but a rebuild or new engine. This sucks..Could this have stemmed from the oil mixing problem?

One more

Another

I tried to upload more pictures but it's saying they are too big..

Well I'm not sure I'm equipped but I can get the proper equipment if I feel like I can achieve the job. My level of expertise is decent. I've done all the mods, maintenance and repairs since 2005..Its a 02 S and had since brand new. Time is a big factor for me in tackling a job like this. If I can't do this job, I would want it to be in the right hands.

Well I tested the shavings. It seems to be non ferrous.. It doesn't seem to stick to the magnet. What does this mean? I will test it again. Here's a few pictures. Tell me what you think guys..

Dan

Ok.. Will do.

This is exactly what I thought. :huh: Thanks JFP. Forgive my ignorance but how do you go about testing for ferrous metal? Is it difficult to pull the Boxster's engine?? For me its about time and the proper equipment to do the job.

Ahsai, I did save a paper towel with the shavings on them and the oil filter. The shavings are gold in color. I will take pictures.

Thanks guys!

Hey Guys,

Sorry for the delay as the weekend I wanted to start this was Mother's Day weekend so I didn't have much time work on the car. The following weekend I did not receive my oil cooler/parts because it was on back order. Last week I did start working on the car. There's some good and a lot of bad.

Firstly, The water cooler was fairly easy to take out and put the new one in. There was a long process off flushing with cleaner, then flushing with water several times. Best results were when I drove the car with the cleaner (as per directions), as the heat and agitation of the engine help dissolve the oil in the coolant system. The entire time the temperature gauge is in the good operating temperature (holding steady around 190ish). Not once overheating. I have to say, it took a lot of work to get that chocolate shake out but for the most part it has cleared up. As of now it just very light brown to the water, so I know the new oil cooler is working. I figure one flush of the cleaner, then water and it will be good to go for Porsche coolant and distilled water.

At this point I have not change the oil yet, because I wanted to do a complete coolant flush and cleaning first.  And as I said, its going really well. "BUT" there is a huge bad side to this story.  When I took the car for a spin, I took it high in the rev range and I got a flashing check engine light! Misfire.. :censored:  I knew it was too good to be true to go as smoothly as it was. I know that this is problems. The car is making a clicking sound. :censored:  Like a valve is stuck or something. Mind you the car is still operating at a great working engine temperature (190ish on the needle), never over heating. :cursing:  I got the check engine light checked. I knew I had the P1411 code as I needed to sort out the secondary air injection system, but there were 6 new ones!  P1130-O2S range 2 Cylinder. 4-6, P0153 O2 Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2, Sensor 1), P1128 O2S Range 2 Cylinder 1-3, P0300 Misfire of several Cylinders, P0304 Misfire Cylinder 4 and P0301 Cylinder Misfire Detected.  I'm not sure if the order is important but the P1411 was second code read. The car is running but you will hear the metallic sound more as the rpm go up. So I change the oil and I did see some metal shavings. :censored:  Any ideas from the codes that were given and the sound along with metal shavings?? I need some help with this one. :help: I know some of you are very skilled in the area of this engine. Any help is very much appreciated! Thanks Guys!!