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BoxSinit

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Posts posted by BoxSinit

  1. I pretty much knew what you stated. I just needed reinforcement. I called back and the assistant retracted from everything she said. Let me add, it doesn't hurt to wait to Monday because I'm still waiting for my cat(s) (on order) and the rear CV joint boots are going to be replaced. So it makes since to do it all at once in regard to labor cost. Thanks for all your help and responses. I will be making a contribution when I get a chance. Great site. :cheers:

  2. Somewhere around 10-15 hours a year of aggressive on track driving time, the track brake pads start to make sense because of better wear characteristics. When/if I reach that point, I plan to swap in the track pads before tech inspection, and reinstall street pads after I get home from the track. If you leave off the wear sensors and install speed bleeders, replacing pads takes only 10-15 minutes per wheel.

    Where can I find these speed bleeders for my "S" and how much. Thanks.

  3. I have ordered from sunset twice. Very good service both times.

    On the second order, they called to apologize that the 18 CV retaining bolts in stock had all been allocated to other people and they hadn't checked that column when taking my order. He said he went to the bin and counted 19 bolts, did I want just 1 bolt instead of the 6 requested. They made the next day delivery of the clutch in time for my weekend install, and as it turned out, I only damaged one bolt head as I only destroyed one during removal.

    I feel they did an excellent job of informing me immediately of a problem and were very professional and courteous.

    How much did they charge you for the clutch?

  4. Loren I need a bit of guidance. Spoke to the assistant at the service desk; she told me I need a complete clutch, $1400 (after a test drive from the service tech). The car has not been taken apart. My question is, how do you know exactly what is going on when it hasn't been disassembled??? She told me that Porsche just replaces the complete clutch. I'm not buying that. Mind you the service manger (who also is the head technician) is on vacation. I have rapport with this man, and pretty much explains everything to me in detail and I assume makes the final decision in the situation. Very fair guy. Actually the assistant tried to charge me an hr of labor for diagnosing a problem (starter) in another service apt. and he overruled it, because this is covered under warranty. Plus the fact there's a guy filling in for him with a Honda shirt (I guess this dealer owns other dealers). Should I wait for the service manger to come back on Monday to break down the car and handle this situation?? Sorry for the long newbie questions; I'm just unsure. If any one has any input, please replay. Thanks for your time.

  5. Hey Loren, just throwing a question out there for you. Recently my car is having trouble with going into first and reverse gear as well as the clutch pedal virbarting on release. I do feel slipping too. I know the answer to this, but I want to be sure. Would any of the work that was done to replace the clutch spring have anything to do with this?

  6. I just changed my 2000S clutch at 48.7K after having an RMS leak in the 1st 5 K that did NOT affect my clutch. The clutch was fully worn out and starting to slip in 3rd gear.

    This was the the case for me. In fact, the clutch (not sure exactly which part) and the RMS was covered under warranty. I'll find out whats going on tomorrow since my car will be going in for service.

  7. Hi guys, I appreciated any info where to look visually (Pics) for a RMS leak. I had a RMS leak in the first 1.5k in my Box S now(48.5k). The oil leaked into the clutch componets and the clutch started to slip and get stuck in gear. The car seems to be headed in that same direction once again (clutch slipping). I wonder if this is the same problem because I am pretty good driver as far as operating a manual transmission correctly. Thanks.

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