swede-man

Thank you Loren for checking on that part nr.

I will look in to getting it repaired as Logray suggested.

My 1999 C2 has developed a rattle in the left muffler at around 3500 rpm and I think it has a loose baffle because it makes a noise when I knock on it with my hand.

I have been able to locate a used muffler from a wrecked 996 but is has a different part nr 996 111 121 90.

Mine has 996 111 121 56. Would this work?

Thanks very much.

As promised a couple of pics with my new wheels and tail lights fitted.

I also had a wheel alignment done today, she drives and handles beautiful and I am very impressed with the Michelins.

Wyovino,my car is MY1999 and the colour is called "Tannengruen-metalic" 22E 9 3.

It's an unusual colour but I really like it and it looks stunning in bright light.

I have seen the "smokey coloured" tail lights on a black 996 but didn't like them at all,it looked more like a dark tinted spraycan job.

The red crystal coloured ones that I have look fresher imo.

I have now decided to go with silver wheels.

Yes Zee,

I ordered my lights from Dectane in Germany for Eur.340.00 and on the inside it says "made in Taiwan by Depot"

They fit and look fantastic and I am very happy with the new look.

I haven't fitted my new Michelins yet because I have decided to get a new set of "Victor Innsbruck wheels" and I will keep the original wheels as a spare set with perhaps some winter tyres.

I am just not sure whether I should go for the black or the silver wheels? the colour of my car is Pine-green.

I would apreciate your guys opinion on these,thanks

Creekman,

I can't really see anything wrong with the plastic mounting tabs on the Dectane's.

They look excactly the same as the original tail lights, I have just fitted them which was very easy and took about 5 minutes.

Absolutely plug and play and they fitted perfect!

The Michelins are 225/40/18 (stock) and 295/30/18 (not stock but I like the wider stance) :)

Received my Dectane taillights today together with a set of new Michelins PS2 N3.

The taillights look really good and could go for OEM if they had not "made in Taiwan" stamped at the inside.

Will post some pics when fitted on the car.

Y2K911,

Yes those numbers look very similar indeed.

My car has had 2 previous owners, the first owner on the title shows it was the local Porsche centre that owned it for 8 months.

So it more than likely was there demonstrator back in 1999 I guess, which would explain the 'passionate' driving :)

Anyway, I am glad it never reached range 2.

Bonjour Gigi02,

I opted for the 'Professional cable' as I have several friends with Porsches and I didn't want to be limited to only 3 cars.

You just buy the cable and download the software from Durametrics website and the rest is plug and play.

I am now learning to understand all the different data that I can read out of my car.

Ahsai, thank you for your time and and easy to understand explanation.And you were wright that the engine was not running when I took the read out.

I am starting to enjoy playing around with my Durametric and have now also discovered that by going into my instrument data,I could actually activate a digital ambient-temperature gauge that was never there before! but very handy to have.

Received my Durametric cable today to clear my airbag code that I generated after disconecting the side airbags by mistake. It cleared all just fine so all good!

Out of interest I also checked Motronic but can't make much out of all the info-values.

Does anybody know if they are looking all right?

The car is showing 129500 Kilometres.

============ECU Info===========================

Number of ignitions range 1 12801 / 2548.6h

Number of ignitions range 2 0 / 0h

Operating hours counter 2754.5

Data version 0041550737010527

Type ID DME control unit 996RDW01

==============================================

Jimmy,

I got the H&R performance spring kit that lowered my 1999 C2 aproximately 1 inch. The spec sheet mentioned lowering 1.0 to 1.5 inch, but in my case it was 1 inch wich i am happy with.

I also got the Bilstein (sport) schocks. They also do an (HD) version but I understood that the sport shocks were more suitable with the lowering.

I have absolutely no problems with the 295 30 18 rubbing or touching, but remember that I have a C2 and not sure about you C4.

I got the shocks and springs from Automotion.com

I had 19 inch wheels with 245/35/19 and 275/30/19 on my 1999 C2 with standard suspension. They looked great but I prefered the handling with the 18 inch.

I have now gone back to 18 inch with 225/40/18 and 295/30/18 and lowered it with H&R springs and new Bilstein shocks.

Very happy with the handling, and the 295 on the rear gives it a nice stance.

The Mk1 side skirts are epoxied on and fit tight to the chassis (when properly installed). The Mk 2 side skirts are held in place with double sided tape.

Both are OEM. Have you tried Sunset Imports (Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost) ? Link at top right.

Thanks Loren.:thankyou:

Just after some advise regarding which sideskirts to choose for my 1999 C2.

From what I can gather there is a set for the MK1 and one for MK2. The later set seems to be a lot cheaper and is OEM.

Does anybody know if they look ok on a 1999 C2, or should I go for the MK1 set ?

Also any advise on were to order them from ?

Thank you.

hi All, i was driving a few nights ago when i felt a Pop or snap under my clutch pedal. since then the clutch's felt very hard and much deeper with free play. it used to be the clutch would engage all the way up but since the incident it now engages very quickly, and much shorter. i want to say the clutch itself is not worn cuz it just can't happen over night. i am suspecting the master or slave cylinder to be the problem but am not sure. i am still puzzled on how the pop/snap can be linked to this. any advice would be appreciated.

2002 boxwter s 6 speed

Paul

Hi Paul,

sounds like your booster-spring that is connected to the clutch-pedal has snapped.

Have a look by taking the plastic panel above the pedals of,and look at the top of the clutch pedal.

You will see a plastic sleeve that contains a (heavy)spring,that has probably broken.

Just wondering if anybody can recommend a good and reliable source for an 996 workshop-manual?

I have just wasted time and money for one advertised by (electronicmanuals.uk),that doesn't seem to exist anymore.

Thanks.

Thank you swede-man, doug, kgoertz, and richard!! Swede-man, obviously you replaced the parts yourself. If so, how would you rate the difficulty? Is it the same part number for both sides? I will have a lift available. Since I will be installing PSS9s, and will need an alignment anyway, this would be the perfect time to replace the part!! I'll also check my lower ball joint.

Yes I did replace the tie-rods myself without removing the steering rack from the car. It is not that difficult but rather fiddely. I also have the use of a vehicle hoist.

Porsche has most probably a special tool to undo the tie-rod from the rack. I borrowed a universal "inner tie-rod removing tool" from a suspension shop, it wasn't ideal but it did the job. I looks like a 300mm long tube that goes over the toothed rack, with at the end of it an open ended spanner on a 90 degree angle. The tube allows you to work away from the steering rack, as there is not much space for a normal spanner. Make sure you use locktite thread lock when you screw on the new part. The trickiest part was to re-fit the clamp on the rubber rackboot (there is not much space), I ended up using a plastic cable tie which worked out fine.

PS. Both inner tie-rods are the same

Any chance of an illustration or pic of which inner tie rod ends you mean? Or do you have the part numbers you installed? That would be enough! Thanks!

It is the inner tie-rod p/n 99634732203

Hoping the collective wisdom of the list can help here...

My 1999 C2 Coupe 45k miles new to me. The car has a clunk coming from the suspension or steering on the *I think* front left. The clunk is audible and can be felt through the steering wheel at slow speeds and small bumps. It does not happen from steering input alone there must be some suspension travel.

Here is the weird part: It only happens after driving at least an hour on a warm (over 75 F) day. It is completly absent when it is cool or short trips.

I think the sway bar links are OK can't feel any play in them. In fact, I think the sway bar links were replaced recently because they look almost new. Tie rod ends also seem tight. I just had the suspension replaced with a brand new M030 Kit so that rules out struts (upper strut bushings were replaced when the kit was put in as well) and sway bar bushings. I was really hoping it would go away after the M030 was installed but it didn't.

I described the problem to my Indy, asking him to check everything when he had it apart but he came up with nothing. Because it only happens after an hour when its hot out he didn't reproduce the problem. But in his defense, he probably thought like I did it would go away after the new suspension was installed.

Anyway any ideas would be appreciated this clunk is driving me crazy.

Doug Davis

Hi Doug,

I am a first timer on this forum,so not sure if this will reach you.

Anyway,I had excactly the same clunck with my just bought 996 last month,which drove me crazy too.

It took me a while to pinpoint it,but the noise that you are getting is caused by the 'inner-tie rod(s).

The ball-joint inside has become dry and gets very tight and noisy when it warms up after aprox. 1hr driving.

I proved it by taking the tie-rod out and putting it in a vice and than warmed it up with a hair-drier,you won't believe

how tight and creacky it gets.I first tried lubricating it but that didn't work! So I renewed both sides in my car and had it wheel-aligned

afterwards. Completely different car to drive now.

Hope this helps.