c70Pete

IMO opinion there are better oils available that are not on the Porsche list if you are off warranty. Some are very expensive - like my Motul 300V 5W-40.

is the 300v 5W-40 appropriate for tracking and lapping days? why would not the M1 5W50 be a better choice for tracking since it has a higher viscosity?

Our Walmart in Arizona carries Mobil 1 15W50 racing oil, which nobody buys, so it was on sale for $22.00 for 5 quarts. Mixed with 5 quarts of 0W40, new oil cost me less than $50. 5W30 or 10W30 is not sufficient per the boys at Porsche.

why do you mix?... is it ok to mix?

Hi Loren,

Not to beat a dead horse -- but I have a similar question.

I see "Carrera side skirts" at the top of this link. Do you know if they are exactly the same as the "Aero Kit II side skirts"?

http://www.gossettparts.com/display.cfm?st...mp;previous=yes

I'm about to buy a set and think I like the Carrera side skirts better -- but possibly they're the same thing and just look better in this photo.

Thanks so much for your help!

Mike

The side skirts differ for Aerokit Cup - MY99-01

and

Aerokit II - MY02-04

AND

Coupes and Cabs are slightly different.

So one size does not fit all.

Some what model and what year car do you have?

I thought I saw Aerokit II skirts on a 99 before... I believe they fit and they look more aggressive than the original skirts intended for the MY99-01 carreras... the only thing you will need to install to complete the look is a lip on the bottom of the front bumper...

hold the show here guys...

1128/1130 I got these errors when my oil filler cap was not on tight! it was sucking excess air into the crankcase and these errors developed..... it could be easy as that! check to make sure your oil cap is on tight...

Any ideas where a guy can BUY a GT3 engine?

(Not to hijack the thread... it's just...you know...while we're here...) ;)

BTW: Pete - clear your inbox, man... it's full. I can't reply to you.

okay thx...

I think you can try suncoast porsche for a gt3 motor... but I don't know what the conversion costs are... it would be worth it cause those engines are practically bulletproof...

Oh yes, Loren, thx for the correction. it's good to know since i'm approaching 60K here and i am expecting some odd noises and mechnical issues per Pete and his track buds in about 300 or so miles.

yup if your tracking its a whole different ballgame... service intervals become much shorter... and parts just don't last as long... I don't think Porsche ever designed the 996 to be heavily tracked... for that they recommend you go and buy a GT3... and even that has a lifespan...

sorry, though i love reading up on forums, my life beyond the vicinity of a comp and internet connection isn't porsches.

really? is that why you've been kicked off every internet forum?

from my reading, tranny issues are more common with the 996TT (diff tranny), much less so in the carreras.

as to the M9X engine program being a joke, you said it.

this is the 996 forum... do you see people taking about turbo's anywhere? B)

The car is at a respected local independent as of this morning, awaiting diagnosis. The independent said, as Loren did, that parts are now available from Porsche for transmission repair.

Apparently some specialists have been repairing 996 transmission for years before Porsche made parts available by going to the suppliers used by Porsche.

Shopping around it seems a good rebuilt transmission can be bought for about $3000 w/core exchange. A huge hit, to be sure. :( But about 1/2 of a new motor, fwiw. Let's hope it doesn't come to that. If it does come to that, from what I've seen the US rebuilders of 996 transmissions make some nice upgrades for 1/2 the price of a Porsche-supplied replacement. But like I said. . . let's hope it doesn't come to that!

Searching the web it seems like 996 transmission issues are rare and the ones that crop up usually relate to 2d gear. I was hoping my post would shake out some experiences with transmission bearings, thrust washers, main shaft, etc. But for the sake of all of us, maybe its better that the information isn't out there!

996 transmission issues are not rare... especially @ 60K miles and beyond... pinion bearings.. whiring/whining; gears popping out and crunchy shifts... lots of cars suffer from these symptoms... I believe 996 use brass synchros and there are a lot of shops out there who replace tranny fluid with synthetic thinking it is a superior fluid... fact of the matter is that brass and synthetic don't mix... you cause damage... there is a great video I found that illustrates the failures of 996 transmissions and what typically fails... the synchros are just one part... there are spider gears that fail and of course the bearings....

If 996 tranny issues are not rare and I rarely hear about them posted on 911 forums, then given the frequency of engine failures we ALL read online, the whole M9X engine program has got to be an absolute engineering joke!

You need to listen more carefully then cause this year I know of four 996 needing new tranny's up here in Toronto... and about 3 others I know who track their car have already replaced/repaired their transmission... and they are not on the forums... and yes the M9X engine program is a joke.... blown engines are probably more common than 996 tranny issues...

So the dealer reco is not a synthetic?

whatever the dealer gives you is good for your car... it has the proper friction modifiers that the transmission requires... I believe the gear oil for 996 C2 is non-synthetic...

So Pete,

What gear oil do you use for your Tranny? I'm going to change mine and I'm looking for some input (Besides the Mobil 1 Delvac.)

Thanks!

I used the stock one from the dealer as specified for our cars... if your tracking your car just change it every year... if not then every 2-3 years should be fine (still well before what porsche recommends but its a lot cheaper than a new tranny!!)

in the end these transmissions are prone to failure because of their cheap internal parts that are self-lubricating bearings that fail over time especially when tracked and used hard...

Funny how isolated bad experiences can be given the same weight as a statistically significant sample. This means you need to look at hundreds or thousands of these cars to determine reliability - not just the one car that died on you or your buddy. No car is perfect, and the same is true for the 966. For the track miles I've put on my car, the engine has been bullet-proof.

How many track miles do you have on your car...?

Final note - warranties are for suckers. By definition, the the time-value of the insurance premium you will pay will not only cover the cost of any repairs, it will provide a profit for the insurance company. Now, if you could not bear the loss of an engine failure (I don't know who is foolish enough to pay $20k for an engine rebuild when a new plant costs thousands less), and you would be left with a worthless car that you could not repair, then you should consider a warranty. If you have the resources to buy a new engine yourself, the rational move is to self-insure. If you are looking at car warranties, be aware that many companies are fraudulent - they will take your money and then declare bankruptcy in a year or two when the claims start.

umm... I big to differ here... if you are buying a used 996 get a warranty that will cover full engine and transmission replacement... and your absolutely right about the fraudulent companies out there... they say they will cover you but in the end will not...

does anybody know how much a good warranty for a used 996 costs?

Hey, I've got the PSS9s on my Mk1 in combination with 996 RS springs. I've been very satisfied with that combination thus far, though I feel that the components from Tarett (www.tarett.com) have probably made a bigger difference to how the car behaves and handles than the shocks/springs themselves.

what components from Tarret are you referring to?

The car is at a respected local independent as of this morning, awaiting diagnosis. The independent said, as Loren did, that parts are now available from Porsche for transmission repair.

Apparently some specialists have been repairing 996 transmission for years before Porsche made parts available by going to the suppliers used by Porsche.

Shopping around it seems a good rebuilt transmission can be bought for about $3000 w/core exchange. A huge hit, to be sure. :( But about 1/2 of a new motor, fwiw. Let's hope it doesn't come to that. If it does come to that, from what I've seen the US rebuilders of 996 transmissions make some nice upgrades for 1/2 the price of a Porsche-supplied replacement. But like I said. . . let's hope it doesn't come to that!

Searching the web it seems like 996 transmission issues are rare and the ones that crop up usually relate to 2d gear. I was hoping my post would shake out some experiences with transmission bearings, thrust washers, main shaft, etc. But for the sake of all of us, maybe its better that the information isn't out there!

996 transmission issues are not rare... especially @ 60K miles and beyond... pinion bearings.. whiring/whining; gears popping out and crunchy shifts... lots of cars suffer from these symptoms... I believe 996 use brass synchros and there are a lot of shops out there who replace tranny fluid with synthetic thinking it is a superior fluid... fact of the matter is that brass and synthetic don't mix... you cause damage... there is a great video I found that illustrates the failures of 996 transmissions and what typically fails... the synchros are just one part... there are spider gears that fail and of course the bearings....

your dealer should be able to look up the type of bearing (single or double) based on your engine number

make sure your oil cap is screwed on tight and proper! a loose oil cap introduced air into the system and can trigger those errors....

I currently have 255/40/17 tires on my 17" rims... and am thinking of getting track tires like Michelin Pilot Cup Sport...

unfortunately they don't come in 255 or 265 width like the PS2 but they only come in 275 width...

below is revs per mile from the 255 tire... and also for the 275 series tire... does anybody think there will be a problem ... I'm using the standard 9" rims which tire rack website says will work with 275 width

my front tires are 225/45/17

its going on a 99 C2 with ROW 030 suspension

PS2 tires

255/40ZR17 REVS per MILE 831

265/40ZR17 REVS per MILE 822

Michelin Pilot Cup Sport tires..

275/40ZR17 REVS per MILE 810

:) First post here gents. Been lookin' for a P-car for about 2 years. Started w/the 964, then to the 3.2, then to the 993, then to a turbo 3.2 and now I'm keen on a 996.

I think I've come across a good car at a fair price........Here's the deal- 1999 911 under 35,000 miles. Pristine cond in and out. New clutch. Solid maint history w/receipts. Bone stock. 18" turbo twists. 2nd owner since 2001.

Price $23,000 American

Questions: 1. Is this a good first Porsche?

2. Is it a fair price?

3. Besides the rear main seal what are any issues that could potentially cost me $$$?

4. Should I have a leakdown test done on it during the PPI?

Any and all responses welcome......................Thanks :)

1. depends on how it was serviced.

2. paint? accidents? suspension still good?

3. even 02 engines fail

4. also plug into the ECU and get the # of engine running hours.... the average speed over the life of the car is approx 30 mph... so your engine hours on a car with 35,000 mile should not be more than 1166 hrs... if its significantly more than that you know somebody has ROLLED BACK the mileage... on a 99 with low mileage like that this would be my main concern..

LEAKDOWN DEFINITELY !!! and if you are super paranoid you can do a BOROSCOPE analysis (2 hour charge) to have the tech look inside each cylinder and check for liner cracks...

... also drop the oil pan and see if there is any metallic debri in the pan.... if there is... forget it...

personally I would go the extra mile to do it...

but leakdown and engine hours first before other tests...

Paint excellent. NO ACCIDENTS. really an exceptionally great looking car in and out.

Suspension- good I guess. test ride was good, but haven't seen it on a lift as of yet.

MK1 or MK2- How do I know which is which?

MK2 has rounder headlights and 3.6 motor... also has different rear bumper and color keyed rear bumper extensions where as 99-01 are black

:) First post here gents. Been lookin' for a P-car for about 2 years. Started w/the 964, then to the 3.2, then to the 993, then to a turbo 3.2 and now I'm keen on a 996.

I think I've come across a good car at a fair price........Here's the deal- 1999 911 under 35,000 miles. Pristine cond in and out. New clutch. Solid maint history w/receipts. Bone stock. 18" turbo twists. 2nd owner since 2001.

Price $23,000 American

Questions: 1. Is this a good first Porsche?

2. Is it a fair price?

3. Besides the rear main seal what are any issues that could potentially cost me $$$?

4. Should I have a leakdown test done on it during the PPI?

Any and all responses welcome......................Thanks :)

1. depends on how it was serviced.

2. paint? accidents? suspension still good?

3. even 02 engines fail

4. also plug into the ECU and get the # of engine running hours.... the average speed over the life of the car is approx 30 mph... so your engine hours on a car with 35,000 mile should not be more than 1166 hrs... if its significantly more than that you know somebody has ROLLED BACK the mileage... on a 99 with low mileage like that this would be my main concern..

LEAKDOWN DEFINITELY !!! and if you are super paranoid you can do a BOROSCOPE analysis (2 hour charge) to have the tech look inside each cylinder and check for liner cracks...

... also drop the oil pan and see if there is any metallic debri in the pan.... if there is... forget it...

personally I would go the extra mile to do it...

but leakdown and engine hours first before other tests...

To the original poster: Just to add to your data, put me in the "something is wrong" column. My '00 is on its original motor, runs 0W40 Mobil 1 year round, and does not burn any oil at all. So it's possible, and it's surely desirable.

do you track it?

i've never tracked the c4s and don't plan on it perhaps autox.

i've had the car for over 2 years and 25K+ miles... consistent and reliable... zero issues save for the 5 year old OEM battery and clutch switch.

except for the reman engine right? did it fail via IMS...?

curious how much oil does your reman burn?

probably a quart every oil change (5K miles) - i tend to keep the revs high so to be quite clear... once warmed up shift at 4-4.5K usually... i don't hesitate to redline in appropriate circumstances. :)

my PSE gets heard, but within street legal limits of course. :)

so from a timeline perspective... a quart every 6 months. minimal annoyance level here.

that's not bad.... keep an eye on it and see if it gets worst over the next year...

do you track it? if so how frequently...?

to stay on topic here and not revert to the usual hobby racer banter so popular with the track hobbyists...

-3.6 > 3.4

-my cars past and present did burn oil

-they all ran fine and put out good power relative to others well within manufacturer guidelines

-an engine that burns oil is normal and owners who do have engines that require topping off should NOT be alarmed as your post implies (typical internet crying wolf, alarmist style)

-recommending that others run 15w on the m96 is absolutely bad advice esp since the person recommending it certainly isn't going to put money where his mouth is

the OP's engine sounds like it's burning oil excessively and the answer to his problem is not to run BMW oil or 15w.

curious how much oil does your reman burn?

So all, are there some technical recommendations to check if you are on the high-end of oil consumption? So far I have seen the following being recommended:

AOS check or replacement

Compression test

Leak-down test

What would you recommend next if you pass all of these (and replace the AOS)? Perhaps change plugs and have the cylinders borescoped at the same time?

How do you check the valve guide seals?

Thanks :renntech:

Seems to me, the cheapest way to attempt to reduce or eliminate your burning is to fill the crankcase with Mobil Extended Performance 15W50 and drive the car hard. I would also recommend (whether you change the oil or not) to bring the car up to redline and let the engine brake it back down to. Repeat this a few times and do it periodically to keep cylinder walls clean and smooth. This can drastically reduce oil burning when oil is getting past the rings.

well what about breaking in a new new re-man engine.... they fill it with 0W40..... take it to red line on the first day? I've heard for performance its good and also seats the rings properly... 1999Porsche911... what do you think about this technique?

I would remove the 0W40 and put in 15W50. I would then warm it up and test the rev limiter several time to make sure it worked properly. Engine breaking is as good, if not better for seating rings.

can I use mobil 1 5W50 instead? or is there a distinct advantage in going with 15W50 when breaking in a new motor?

So all, are there some technical recommendations to check if you are on the high-end of oil consumption? So far I have seen the following being recommended:

AOS check or replacement

Compression test

Leak-down test

What would you recommend next if you pass all of these (and replace the AOS)? Perhaps change plugs and have the cylinders borescoped at the same time?

How do you check the valve guide seals?

Thanks :renntech:

Seems to me, the cheapest way to attempt to reduce or eliminate your burning is to fill the crankcase with Mobil Extended Performance 15W50 and drive the car hard. I would also recommend (whether you change the oil or not) to bring the car up to redline and let the engine brake it back down to. Repeat this a few times and do it periodically to keep cylinder walls clean and smooth. This can drastically reduce oil burning when oil is getting past the rings.

well what about breaking in a new new re-man engine.... they fill it with 0W40..... take it to red line on the first day? I've heard for performance its good and also seats the rings properly... 1999Porsche911... what do you think about this technique?

I have had many cars over the years, and have NEVER added oil between oil changes, including my Porsche.

With my 2006 987S I did the following:

1) Religiously followed the break-in procedure (not easy to do!)

2) Changed the oil at the 1,000 mile mark (I think this is a good thing and worth the $$)

3) My last 3 oil changes (yearly) have been with Red Line 5W40

there seems to be this popular notion, a follow the leader mentality that an engine that does not burn oil is somehow better than an engine that does when in fact the only downside with the latter is the annoyance factor in topping off oil however frequently you need to do it. more greater the frequency the more annoying it gets.

so long as it's within porsche's allowance, i wouldn't be afraid of the engine... with that said.... porsche's allowance requires a lot of annoying time spent topping off plus expense.

my S54 M3 engine burned oil. it dynoed higher than any stock S54 at the dyno day here back several years ago. my f20c honda engine burned oil. same dyno results relative to others. i followed the break-in guidelines to a tee. so me making the claim that an engine that does burn moderate amounts of oil means greater relative power output... it's just as absurd of a claim/notion that it's somehow better, more desireable to have an engine that does burn oil.

good luck with your "issue". not many porsches that i've read about burn as much oil as yours. it seems excessive. but again the answer is not running oil weights/brands not on porsche's recommended list.

your engines made more HP because they were loose... oval cylinders... worn rings... so less friction... hence more HP... you know what they say.... they run the strongest just before they blow!! just like a higher mileage engine performing better... once its broken in its a lot faster... its looser... but oil burning @ 1 quart per 600 miles means something else is wrong...

all the engines have run perfectly since i still know the owners i sold the car to and my m96 has likely had less issues than yours IIRC. let's be real here and not cry wolf.

so I guess you and your owners constitute a statistically representative sample...? :clapping: and I never had any issues with my car... it was a heavily tracked C2 that just had bearing failure one day due to the bad design of the 3.4 and oil starvation... and yes it was burning oil... lots of it... but boy was it fast... it was faster than a 3.6 on the Andretti straitaway @ mosport... and at the track that day it burned a full 2 litres in 2 hours... cry wolf... ? where have you been? this is a well documented problem in these engines...

even @ Sebring lots of the 3.4 (including the new cayman s) pop their motors due to oil starvation... X-51 oil pan fixes that or definitely prolongs it (I know this for a fact from guys who track down there) and even the 3.6 are affected @ Sebring... with similar symptoms... you want to burn oil... ok say 1 quart every 6-7000 miles would be acceptable... if your tracking hard... running the engine hot etc... but every six hundred miles... yah right ... looks like Porsche don't want to solve their problem...

lets see how the current crop of DFI 3.6 and 3.8 motors do with oil burning... so far from what I"m hearing they are ALL oil burners... lets see how long they last...

smoke crack?