mattntp

make sure your coolant reservoir cap p/n ends in 04, if not update it to the newer part. the cap holds pressure up to its release point and then the released coolant travels down the top of reservoir into drain tube. either your cap is failing or you really do have an overtemp/overpressure issue.

Okay... wow. Thanks for all the info. that's awesome. I have a two post Hydraulic Rotary lift and I have the transmission jack so that part is covered. Have all the tools and I have a former Toyota mechanic that's helping do it. After looking at the Porsche Service Manual it just didn't seem that difficult, not 17.6 hours difficult. What's sad is the shop I took it to is one of the best Porsche specific shops around; so when they quoted me "book" rate I was really dissapointed. I don't mind paying someone to do it if they're going to charge me a realistic price, but everyone around here quotes "book" and I can't screw myself in good conscience like that knowing they can do it in 7 hours max. They loved it when I told them that they were "high", I guess they're used to dealing with rich dudes that don't know any better and will pay whatever they ask. I even clarified it like this.." So you're telling me it's going to take you two full eight hour days to complete a clutch job?" I got the "Well there's a little more to it than you think..." In my sarcastic drawn out voice, "Rrrriiiiggghhhttt."

Are there any mechanics left that charge you for how long it actually took them to complete the job? I haven't found one...

Maybe I found a new calling, I think I can scrounge by on $95 bucks per hour of legitimate time.

us working techs need to eat too. if by our own experience and skill we can do a job in less than book time, then why should we give away our time and efforts? everybody thinks that mechanics are out to screw them, but it is no different than any other profession. at first you make less profit while you are learning, but as you streamline your business practices you become more profitable. when you become more profitable you dont think of ways to go back to being less profitable you are now reaping the benefits of all your previous hard work. BTW 8-10 hrs is appropriate for non turbo, 17 ish is appropriate for turbo. It can be done with engine in car, but is safer and easier to pull both together.

mattntp

does the parking brake indicator light in the inst. cluster light up when the hand brake is pulled while trying to lower top? if not the switch in the handbrake assy may be bad our out of adjustment

mattntp

lightweight flywheels often chatter at lower rpm, which is why you see race porsches revving about 1500-2000rpm when rolling around the paddock, it is due to the lower rotational mass and less inertia. I would lean toward a clutch slippage issue or something else clutch related. If it is slipping at higher boost then is probably slipping at takeoff as well. Have the flywheel looked at closely when you have the clutch replaced. Unless you plan to track the car I would recommend Porsche factory clutch and flywheel over any aftermarket parts.

Mattntp

the clutch feel should be normal, it uses the power steering pump to proving pedal assist, which doesn't happen until the car is started. as far as tha rattle, are the clutch and/or flywheel stock or some aftermarket lightweight parts?

the water pump is definately leaking, you can see an orange coolant crust trail from the lower bolt up toward the shaft. but the hose does appear to be leaking as well, there looks like a tear between the two clamps, but doesnt look to be leaking there, but seeping past the clamped connection to the water pump, you probably do need to replace the hose which seems worn out and will probably not seal well to the new waterpump, which is really better left to a pro.

the only proper repair is to have the switch replaced as an assembly with a porsche factory part.

have the clutch replaced with stock updated parts and have the cable properly adjusted according to spec. when working correctly they aare not that bad. but a g50 upgrade would be better both for the hydraulic clutch and the shift feel, g15 is sloppy and prone to syncro wear. g50 is crisper and stronger.

MAtt

There are a couple of microswitches on the inner door latch assemblys that can fail and cause issues similar to what you are experiencing. i think they can all be replaced without replacing the entire latch assy. you will need to remove the inner door panel and remove the latch assy. to replace the switches.

matt