c337cc

My coolant is 6 years old next month. It is neither dirty or broken down. I test it at least once a year and it has not lost any of it's cooling properties. Unless you have a leak or somehow dilute the mixture too much with water I see no reason to change it.

Whats the ph of your coolant???

Just out of general interest: Why do you want to change the coolant, considering that it's a lifetime filling and, at least according to Porsche and the coolant manufacturer, does not need to be changed?

Cheers,

Uwe

No such thing as liftime fill. Just a sles gimmick. I will believe that ,when they give me a lifetime warranty on all the components, that have a life time fill.

Howard

Porsche Tech since 1978

Disconnect the + and the - cable from the battery, connect the loose + and the loose - cable with a jumper cable for a few minutes (reboot), reconnect the + and the - cables on the battery, trey again.

How does that work?

Discharges the cap's .

well problem is back!

just tried to start car and with key held in start position it failed but fired a few seconds later!

when i retried it and held key again in start position it failed totally but fired once i had released it and tried again

so i got going but this really has to be sorted as next time i might not be so lucky and have the car at home

HELP!!

Are you sure its not the electrical portion of the ignition switch?? That is a common failure before 03,the later ones fail too ,but not nearly as often. Early ones are no longer available from Porsche only from VW/Audi part # is4A0 905 849.If it is you switch I recomend you upgrade the lock assy to 996 347 017 07. It comes with the later style switch. I have done a ton of these.

Howard

Will apreciate some opinions. When I remove the key from the ignition switch some times it does not do the clicking sound,is the problem with the ignition switch or the stearing wheel lock mechanism?

Since the electrical part of the switch is no longer available from Porsche on the earlier cars,only from Audi. You should update the lock assy. with 996 347 017 07. It comes with the newer style electrical portion & doesn't fail as often as the original.

Howard

Anyone?

Release bearing is bad. You should replace the clutch while you're there.

Howard

Are there any signs of leakage on the underbody? When I replaced the front engine mount I was struck by how many joints there are in the cooling system. The hard and soft hoses run to the front of the car behind black plastic panels, if you had a slow leak there, you might see some evedence on the panels.

If you have leakage into the oil slowly you might not ever see it on the dipstick.

You might try draining the oil to take a look at it, you'd need something huhe, then check for coolant and pour it back in.

Might also do a compression check, remove all 6 plugs, screw the tester into each cylinder and crank it checking for low compression, if you are sucking coolant into a chamber, you'll have low compression.

Try removing the coolant cap with the car running to see if it is pressurzing.

I think leaky oil coolers leak oil into the coolant syaten, not coolant into the oil.

I would also do a very good visual check. You could have a minor leak that is dripping onto headers or something that is burning it off, hence it wouldn't leave a puddle.

Keep us posted what you find.

A craked head will also pump oil into the cooling system,and you won't see it in the oil. Seen that one before too.

Howard

Loren,

I just saw some coolant on the garage floor, right behind where rear right wheel is. (I just jacked up the back end of the car yesterday)

I wonder if it is coming from where reservoir tank is connected to some main plumbing.

Common problem,Bad expansion tank. Pressurize the system with the carpet & side panels out of the trunk & you should be able to see it.

Howard

Better check the deck height,to insure it didn't bend a rod.

Howard

Replace the oil separator with you are there too.

Howard

Sorry, I found it www.systemsc.com

Loren, has the web address changed for systems consulting?? Please post it or email it.

Thanks, Howard

Neither 6654 nor 6652 worked, Will pull the radio & check the serial # on the radio tomorrow.

Thanks, Howard

Providing you've quoted correct serial number,

Try code 6765

Let me know how you get on.....

6765 was the correct code. Thank you for the assistance,Howard

I bought a Durametric for my 1999 996 C2. The problem I have is understanding what the actual values are? Where do I look to see what is "normal" after I check my actual values. I can't find anything on the Durametric cd or website. So far it's a bunch of numbers with no meaning. Any help?

Here are the DME set points for your car.

Howard

c337cc - this is very good info to have on hand.. do you know where i can get the DME set points for my model-year 2003 996 C4S 6-sp ? rrspike

I have that info only in mode 6 form,if that will help. Howard

Is it the fuse for the blower fan? Inspect the blower motor for play in the rotor shaft. They can wear the bushings and under higher cornering load cause the load to increase in the motor and blow the fuse.

I agree about the blower motor problem,I have been replacing alot of those lately. Do you hear any squeeking noises with a/c operating?? Bushings get dry , dirty& worn. only permenant fix is replace the evap blower.

Howard

Neither 6654 nor 6652 worked, Will pull the radio & check the serial # on the radio tomorrow.

Thanks, Howard

Need help with a Radio code CDR220, Type 4462, Serial # 15063361.

Thank You, Howard

Thats not an RMS leak. This is seapage between the diff housing&gear cluster housing on the tranny.

Howard

Seaping between the tranny mating surfaces. Not a problem @ this point. You can check the torque on the fastners in that area. 15-18 ft/lbs.

Howard

I bought a Durametric for my 1999 996 C2. The problem I have is understanding what the actual values are? Where do I look to see what is "normal" after I check my actual values. I can't find anything on the Durametric cd or website. So far it's a bunch of numbers with no meaning. Any help?

Here are the DME set points for your car.

Howard

The problem lies with the micro switch in the drivers door handle. You may be able to remove the handle,disassemble it,clean &lube the tumbler&repair or replace the micro switch. Caution ! when you remove the tumbler, leave the key in the tumbler so the springs & brass keys stay in place.Easy job if you have done them before.I have repaired many,but its been a while.

Howard

Could be the seperator. Check for vacuum at the dip stick,anything over 4.5" of H2O indicates a bad seperator. You said the plugs were soaked in oil,do you see oil leaking around the spark plug tubes?? this can also cause fuel trim issues.1st step is to check vac.@ dip stick ,then smoke test the intake.,also if you can post your fuel trim #'s & data from you scanner , that would be helpful. What type of scanner are you using??

Howard

I think it is:

00072195885 TESTER WIRING CABLE -- US MSRP $259.30

Thanks for the part # Loren. I will give that a try but I was told they are nla from Porsche

Does anyone know where I can get a new cable for my PST2 ?? I need the cable with the 16 pin OBD2 connector on one end & the 20 pin serial connector on the other end.

Howard :renntech: